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Labour Saving and General Guntering

emaherx

How about using this thread to show off our engineering skills (or lack of!)
A lot of us have home made or improvised labour saving tools / implements lying around. Similar to stuff in Farmers Journal labour saving compettions. (without the prize money:p).

Maybe we could use this thread to share interesting ideas and discuss improvements.

I don't have any pictures at the moment of my own but I will take some at the weekend if not before.

My own projects include:
Quick hitch for front loader (fairly rough but works), designed to fit Trima implements onto MF loader.
Adapter to fit bale lifter onto front loader.
Various other loader attachments spikes etc.

Current project is a wrapped bale transporter being built out of remains of an old Muck Spreader. (only just started, currently just an axle and draw bar).

Their maybe other stuff around too, I'll have to have a look.

So what are peoples opinions, is this a good idea for a thread?

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ford 5600

blue5000 wrote: »

Are the hubs cast iron, do you need any special rods for welding them to the axle?

I welded several of them using Hilco rods, just ordinary off the shelf ones. Actually lovely stuff to weld so its not cast, high quality stuff of some sort though.

Nekarsulm

Usually Ford or Volkswagen hubs are weldable, in my experience. Tried a set from a Honda Civic once, and they couldn't be welded.

ford 5600

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Usually Ford or Volkswagen hubs are weldable, in my experience. Tried a set from a Honda Civic once, and they couldn't be welded.

Toyota Corolla and old Hillman Hunter and Ford Escort ones are what I have done without problems.

onyerbikepat

ford 5600 wrote: »

Get a 6 or 7 ft length of H iron (shed pillar), then get your two bare rims, bolt them to the hubs, sit the rims into the H iron, fit your box iron axle in place. Tack weld on the four corners while spinning around the box iron to check for trueness , as Nekarsulm says not to much at a time as it may pull out of square. Try and get a piece of 5 or 6mm wall box iron, much easier to weld due to more meat, needless to say it will be also stronger, and it will only cost you a few euro more.

Sounds Good! In engineering the ideal way to check for trueness is with a dial gauge. Mount the dial gauge on the rim and run the plunger tip along a reference suface. The trick though is to get a surface that is square with the center of the trailer.

F1 Transportation Services

hey I usually weld a 10mm plate to the end of a heavy wall 40x40 or 50x50 box iron this makes easy for replacing in the future. I use old Toyota stubs and Ford hubs. nice and easy square off the plate and bolt the hubs up

have2flushtwice

I'm hoping to have a go at making a roll bar for the Ferguson on Saturday. I have base plates ready that will fit to the axle. I need to drill these, cut the box uprights, cut the top bar, weld the lot together, and stick some sort of caps on the ends of the box. then paint and fit it on. If I can figure a way of taking it off quickly, as I have 1 low shed, I will incorporate that into it. I have some Box which is slightly smaller diameter which I might weld to the base and drop the larger box down onto it/over it. then drill a hole to drive a pin through and put a lock on it.

I have two, a good one and a rough one. was going to put a bulbar on its flat on the front of the rough one, bolted to the axle so I can mount the quad sprayer onto it.... that's a bit away yet... I need to find a few more uses for the implement before I can justify to dad what the hell i'm doing!!

Reggie.

have2flushtwice wrote: »

I'm hoping to have a go at making a roll bar for the Ferguson on Saturday. I have base plates ready that will fit to the axle. I need to drill these, cut the box uprights, cut the top bar, weld the lot together, and stick some sort of caps on the ends of the box. then paint and fit it on. If I can figure a way of taking it off quickly, as I have 1 low shed, I will incorporate that into it. I have some Box which is slightly smaller diameter which I might weld to the base and drop the larger box down onto it/over it. then drill a hole to drive a pin through and put a lock on it.

I have two, a good one and a rough one. was going to put a bulbar on its flat on the front of the rough one, bolted to the axle so I can mount the quad sprayer onto it.... that's a bit away yet... I need to find a few more uses for the implement before I can justify to dad what the hell i'm doing!!

Best of luck with it. It's all trial and error my man. I had to start over many times after I thought I was nearly finished a project. Along with many fooks

dharn

Can you guarantee that it will save your life in a turnover, not much point in building one if it collapses under the weight of the tractor,

Reggie.

dharn wrote: »

Can you guarantee that it will save your life in a turnover, not much point in building one if it collapses under the weight of the tractor,

I'd say your insurance will depend on the roll bars in a while as the legislation was passed

vincenzolorenzo

I'd be nervous of drilling a hole through the roll bar as a hole is a serious stress concentrator. Is there anyway you could mount it so that it could hinge downwards to get into a low shed?

Reggie.

vincenzolorenzo wrote: »

I'd be nervous of drilling a hole through the roll bar as a hole is a serious stress concentrator. Is there anyway you could mount it so that it could hinge downwards to get into a low shed?

I remember the original TE20 rollbar just slot down over another pipe. The friction alone would make it hard to get out. The pipes slotted together about 6 inches and we're s fair snug fit

have2flushtwice

Reggie. wrote: »

I remember the original TE20 rollbar just slot down over another pipe. The friction alone would make it hard to get out. The pipes slotted together about 6 inches and we're s fair snug fit

that's what i'm planning on doing.

as for guaranteeing it will save my life - I would rather practice safe driving than depend on my roll bar to save me. Nobody can guarantee anything. I could go buy a second hand rusty one made in 1960 and paint it up but can that be guaranteed either? anyway either one will increase your survival chances. I've seen it all go wrong before with no roll bar so I know what I'm talking about. into a drain and pinned underneath and he drowned. HSA report didn't even mention the lack of a roll bar.

onyerbikepat

You can get a folding roll-bar like this, handy for going in under low shed.

http://www.kenttractors.com/Parts&Spares.htm

Reggie.

onyerbikepat wrote: »

You can get a folding roll-bar like this, handy for going in under low shed.

http://www.kenttractors.com/Parts&Spares.htm

They are a right job in fairness

Reggie.

An extension on the crush to deter any "showjumpers"

emaherx

Reggie. wrote: »

An extension on the crush to deter any "showjumpers"

I think the crush without extension qualifies for this thread all by it self.

Nice job by the way.

Muckit

Reggie. wrote: »

An extension on the crush to deter any "showjumpers"

I seriously don't know how you keep cattle in that!! That gate is way too low lad as is this near side. I'd have cattle that would just walk out through it !!!

Reggie.

Muckit wrote: »

I seriously don't know how you keep cattle in that!! That gate is way too low lad as is this near side. I'd have cattle that would just walk out through it !!!

To be honest never had trouble with my cattle jumping or anything. Never any hassle with them to date.

could be just lucky

Muckit

Once you have quiet cattle your grand. You rear from sucks (l think?) And hand feed a lot of the time so they're grand and quiet.

Reggie.

Muckit wrote: »

Once you have quiet cattle your grand. You rear from sucks (l think?) And hand feed a lot of the time so they're grand and quiet.

That's it muck. How high is your end gate?

Muckit

Reggie. wrote: »

That's it muck. How high is your end gate?

Standard headgate... and l've had one or two that tried to swing out of it! I will put a tape to it tomorrow evening and get back to you

Zr105

Reggie. wrote: »

That's it muck. How high is your end gate?

Side of our crush is a little over 4ft high, the head gate is about 6ft now, have had on odd big bullock try to get over the side, if they get it in their head once they'll bloody well try every time...

renandstimpy

Reggie. wrote: »

An extension on the crush to deter any "showjumpers"