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Child Item

Labour Saving and General Guntering

emaherx

How about using this thread to show off our engineering skills (or lack of!)
A lot of us have home made or improvised labour saving tools / implements lying around. Similar to stuff in Farmers Journal labour saving compettions. (without the prize money:p).

Maybe we could use this thread to share interesting ideas and discuss improvements.

I don't have any pictures at the moment of my own but I will take some at the weekend if not before.

My own projects include:
Quick hitch for front loader (fairly rough but works), designed to fit Trima implements onto MF loader.
Adapter to fit bale lifter onto front loader.
Various other loader attachments spikes etc.

Current project is a wrapped bale transporter being built out of remains of an old Muck Spreader. (only just started, currently just an axle and draw bar).

Their maybe other stuff around too, I'll have to have a look.

So what are peoples opinions, is this a good idea for a thread?

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JohnBoy

Dunno reggie.

apart from the duct taped pipe that looks a bit tidy to be guntering

Reggie.

JohnBoy wrote: »

Dunno reggie.

apart from the duct taped pipe that looks a bit tidy to be guntering

I thought the pipe would make it qualify for guntering

Muckit

Reggie. wrote: »

Pics ofbale extension

Good man. Was thinking would have to slide into chassis. I think nugent do a similar job. Have you a pic from underneath of where it slides into chassis?? Thanks

Reggie.

Muckit wrote: »

Good man. Was thinking would have to slide into chassis. I think nugent do a similar job. Have you a pic from underneath of where it slides into chassis?? Thanks

Here ya are Muckit. Now if only my bootiful assistant Kovu could embed the pics please

_Brian

Reggie.. I'll be nosey..
Are the uprights of your shed 3" Gun-barrel ?? Am I right from the pics that the roof is structurally all timber?? Did you do the shed yourself ??

rangler1

Reggie. wrote: »

Here ya are Muckit. Now if only my bootiful assistant Kovu could embed the pics please

I've done my trailer the same way, more greedy than you, extended the trailer by a full bale

just do it

_Brian wrote: »

Reggie.. I'll be nosey..
Are the uprights of your shed 3" Gun-barrel ?? Am I right from the pics that the roof is structurally all timber?? Did you do the shed yourself ??

You're not the first one to ask. He'll be along shortly once nappy duties are out of the way

Reggie.

just do it wrote: »

You're not the first one to ask. He'll be along shortly once nappy duties are out of the way

How did you know it's bedtime

just do it

Reggie. wrote: »

How did you know it's bedtime

I'm off duty tonight

Muckit

Thanks for pics Reggie. I suppose it's a loader job to shove on and off?

Reggie.

_Brian wrote: »

Reggie.. I'll be nosey..
Are the uprights of your shed 3" Gun-barrel ?? Am I right from the pics that the roof is structurally all timber?? Did you do the shed yourself ??

6" and 5" gun barrel. And the roof is all timber. I helped to build it but can't take much credit. Did put up the uprights myself tho

Reggie.

Muckit wrote: »

Thanks for pics Reggie. I suppose it's a loader job to shove on and off?

No I can get the bottom part on by myself with a little struggle but it's really a 2 man job. The racks are a loader job tho

Reggie.

just do it wrote: »

I'm off duty tonight

Well I only get to do the last bottle with the day job so have to have the quality time

Reggie.

_Brian wrote: »

Reggie.. I'll be nosey..
Are the uprights of your shed 3" Gun-barrel ?? Am I right from the pics that the roof is structurally all timber?? Did you do the shed yourself ??

Here ya are Brian
http://touch.boards.ie/thread/2057270612/3

delaney001

C0N0R wrote: »

I guess once you have the headlands done you just pick a straight border. Does it hold much more than a bag? How do you keep tail door shut?

That is tidy looking work. Would it be possible to make a 2ft chute to come off the back of the mower into the trailer. If it was made of something flexible, like the pipe for sucking up slurry, it would bend rather than break. When it comes in contact with the edges of the trailer on a v tight turn, it would press against them and maybe close in a bit but would help with loosing grass.

Nekarsulm

Two pics of a guard for the tractor, made from the frame of one of those elevating hospital trolley's. Opens like the door of a Massey 2640, for those of you old enough to remember. Also made a plywood guard for the engine side panel.

Reggie.

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Two pics of a guard for the tractor, made from the frame of one of those elevating hospital trolley's. Opens like the door of a Massey 2640, for those of you old enough to remember. Also made a plywood guard for the engine side panel.

Very tasty

dharn

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Two pics of a guard for the tractor, made from the frame of one of those elevating hospital trolley's. Opens like the door of a Massey 2640, for those of you old enough to remember. Also made a plywood guard for the engine side panel.

Nott much good for keeping out wind and rain :mad:

Nekarsulm

dharn wrote: »

Nott much good for keeping out wind and rain :mad:

I have a new glass in the shed, but door frame needs a bit of welding first. Fiats are famous for letting the entire glass fall out if you hit a sudden rut.

Never let a passenger lean up against the door glass, due to the design of the rubber seal, you could easily end up driving across them.

dharn

Ya had an 80-90 best engine for torque I ever had, but the cab bonnet etc rusted off it

Nekarsulm

The older ones are a disaster for rusting. Decent later cabs are running near €2000, second hand, without glass etc.
Lots of low gears for hedge cutting though.

TheFarrier

Reggie. wrote: »

New trolley for the bale sleigh

How did you go about Attaching the hubs??
Iv a car trailer needs new hubs on it, but not sure how to keep everything lined up properly.

Thanks

Reggie.

TheFarrier wrote: »

How did you go about Attaching the hubs??
Iv a car trailer needs new hubs on it, but not sure how to keep everything lined up properly.

Thanks

Tack wekded the hubs first and eyed it up to be honest. Got lucky really. If all the steel is cut straight it should all fit and square up nicely

Nekarsulm

Yeah, tack the new hubs to the axle beam, fit a pair of bare rims, and measure the distance between the rims top and bottom, and back and front. Keep tacking a bit more and keep measuring. Don't weld more than a quarter inch at a time anywhere, or you will see the rims pulling. To make it easier to keep checking the distance between the rims, you can make up a device from a piece of half inch gun-barrel piping, about 6 inches shorter than the distance between the rims, and using a length of threaded bar slid into the piping, weld an appropriate nut onto the end of the gun-barrel piping. Now you can screw out your threaded bar to the exact length, and run a lock nut down it to hold it exactly in position.

Farmer

IMO for a single axle un-braked trailer, it's hard to beat the ready made ones that fit into box or boxed angle. You'll spend longer cleaning up and welding up car ones and the weld is a potential failure point

onyerbikepat

You could also get a long flat edge and hold it up against the outer edge of the rims horizontally. Get someone else then to measure the distance in to the central beam of the trailer. For vertical alignment use edge again but measure down to some common central point again.

dar31

movable gate pillar

ford 5600

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Yeah, tack the new hubs to the axle beam, fit a pair of bare rims, and measure the distance between the rims top and bottom, and back and front. Keep tacking a bit more and keep measuring. Don't weld more than a quarter inch at a time anywhere, or you will see the rims pulling. To make it easier to keep checking the distance between the rims, you can make up a device from a piece of half inch gun-barrel piping, about 6 inches shorter than the distance between the rims, and using a length of threaded bar slid into the piping, weld an appropriate nut onto the end of the gun-barrel piping. Now you can screw out your threaded bar to the exact length, and run a lock nut down it to hold it exactly in position.

Get a 6 or 7 ft length of H iron (shed pillar), then get your two bare rims, bolt them to the hubs, sit the rims into the H iron, fit your box iron axle in place. Tack weld on the four corners while spinning around the box iron to check for trueness , as Nekarsulm says not to much at a time as it may pull out of square. Try and get a piece of 5 or 6mm wall box iron, much easier to weld due to more meat, needless to say it will be also stronger, and it will only cost you a few euro more.

mayota

ford 5600 wrote: »

Get a 6 or 7 ft length of H iron (shed pillar), then get your two bare rims, bolt them to the hubs, sit the rims into the H iron, fit your box iron axle in place. Tack weld on the four corners while spinning around the box iron to check for trueness , as Nekarsulm says not to much at a time as it may pull out of square. Try and get a piece of 5 or 6mm wall box iron, much easier to weld due to more meat, needless to say it will be also stronger, and it will only cost you a few euro more.

Clever idea.

blue5000

Are the hubs cast iron, do you need any special rods for welding them to the axle?