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Power Meter Brands

godtabh

Just doing some research on power meters.

I haven't a clue of brands or types. Looking for info on ant compatible devices. It will be for a single bike use only.

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godtabh

Why dont people see stages as an alternative? The l/r balance?

Diarmuid

Smalltom wrote: »

I've had no problems with mine to date bar hitting over 5000w doing sprint sets. .

Your P2Max is broken

Smalltom

@diarmuid-ignorance is bliss for me-it's working perfectly lol!! Time to give up work n join the pro peleton like a grinning idiot;)

Beasty

Diarmuid wrote: »

Your P2Max is broken

I've hit well over 4,000w on the Wattbike!

However I know how it happened - it was basically the first pedal stroke of a timed effort - the power is measured every pedal stroke and the computer essentially "compressed" the initial revolution into a shorter time than it actually took - it can only happen with certain timed programmes and on the first revolution, and did take me a while to work out what had happened when I first saw it behaving like that

Diarmuid

Beasty wrote: »

I've hit well over 4,000w on the Wattbike!

Maybe it was reporting in mW? :pac:

harringtonp

Ryath wrote: »

spend. When I started looking at the power2max it looked not to bad at €740-€840 but in reality when you start adding on chain rings, bolts and bottom brackets you're really looking at €1000 minimum.

Don't really understand this, the rotor 3d costs 958 with postage and comes with a 24mm axle. It fits all 3 of my bikes without any bottom bracket changes. Maybe I was lucky...

Training with power is a bit of an addiction, once you have it you'll want it all the time. Switching can be well less than 5 minutes when you don't have a chainset on the bike you are switching to. So basically you won't be using your other chainsets so you may as well take the rings off one of them. Later on at your leisure you can acquire another pair of chainrings.

Quigs Snr

My P2M (Standard Rotor 24mm Axle) has been going fine now for several months and several thousand km. Battery has not needed to be changed yet.. been out in atrocious conditions. Readings have been very constant (My Garmin 500 is set to calibrate before every ride). No difference in absolute readings between it and my previous 2 Powertaps... e.g. my peak in a road Sprint is just shy of 1200w on both only 2 or 3 watts in it. Very nice product, very happy with it. Although I do like that the Type S is lighter, I might pick up one of those too at some stage (my Rotor 3D standard with Aero 53/39 NoQ rings comes in around 960g excluding BB).

granda

godtabh wrote: »

Why dont people see stages as an alternative? The l/r balance?

i'd say because its not so visable so you'd acually have to tell someone that you have one rather than have the bling on show

Ryath

harringtonp wrote: »

Don't really understand this, the rotor 3d costs 958 with postage and comes with a 24mm axle. It fits all 3 of my bikes without any bottom bracket changes. Maybe I was lucky...

I could just get the power2max gossamer cranks and use my existing bottom bracket and rings but they're close to being needed to be changed any way so may as well factor that in and up my budget to include replacing them. The new Type S works out around the same price as getting the older power2max with the 3df cranks. The spider is €958 delivered and I can get a s900 crankset for €190 or force 22 for €220.

I had dismissed the 24mm Rotor 3d as it seemed worth it to spend the extra 50 on the 30 mm 3df but it would save having to spend extra on Rotor bottom brackets. It would still cost me €1100 complete. It's definitely worth the extra €100 to get the type S. The question to me is just if I should spend the extra on the quarq.

I considered the stages but it would still cost round €850 between the sensor arm and a crankset. I am iffy about the one side measurement. I know it is consistent and can still give good feedback but I know from doing one legged drills my left leg is a lot weaker and gets fatigued quicker.

Powertaps have been have become a good bit cheaper but I've read a lot here and else where about it not exactly being durable.

Beasty

Shimano trying to get in on the act

... will they be the ones to finally bring PMs to the masses?

joey100

On another forum they seemed to be suggesting that they reckon this is to go with the new fitting system Shimano are developing (have developed?).

Could make it interesting if they were getting involved though, some more rumours out there that this is why SKY only signed one year deal with stages, but like everything else it's only a rumour.

Chips Lovell

Fitting system? What's that?

joey100

Don't even know if that's the right word for it, shimano were/are developing there own system. Like a retul bike fit.

Link to a story about it,

http://www.slowtwitch.com/Bike_Fit/Shimano_Elbows_into_Bike_Fit_3845.html

dario28

Im looking for a powermeter that will suit both of my bikes , any idea which would work best ?

http://2012.feltracing.com/USA/2012/TT-TRI/TT-TRI-Series/B16-.aspx

http://www.boardmanbikes.com/road/road_team_carbon.html

Dont want to hijack the tread so a PM would do the trick if anyone can help !

godtabh

dario28 wrote: »

Im looking for a powermeter that will suit both of my bikes , any idea which would work best ?

http://2012.feltracing.com/USA/2012/TT-TRI/TT-TRI-Series/B16-.aspx

http://www.boardmanbikes.com/road/road_team_carbon.html

Dont want to hijack the tread so a PM would do the trick if anyone can help !

Do you use the same wheels for each bike? If not I'd be going for a crank based one (as stages one to be exact as I reckon they are the best bang for buck)

Ryath

dario28 wrote: »

Im looking for a powermeter that will suit both of my bikes , any idea which would work best ?

http://2012.feltracing.com/USA/2012/TT-TRI/TT-TRI-Series/B16-.aspx

http://www.boardmanbikes.com/road/road_team_carbon.html

Dont want to hijack the tread so a PM would do the trick if anyone can help !

You have a bsa threaded bb on the Felt and a BB30 pressfit on the boardman. A 24mm axle crankset will fit in the bb30 frame with the right adapters but not the other way around. The best value crank based option is the FSA gossamer from Power2max for €858 delivered
http://www.power2max.de/europe/en/Produkt/bestsellers/power2max-fsa-gossamer-road/
You can use your existing bb on the felt and you'll need a 24mm to BB30 bottom bracket for the boardman. Which is €24 from p2max. You can use your existing chain rings if you stick with a compact. You can still then use the felt crankset on either bike.

There are dearer options. They have 24m axle rotor 3d cranksets for €100 more that would have same options. After that you're on to the 30mm axle Rotor and bor that would need their own bottom brackets which are dearer and would leave you not able to use your existing crankset.

godtabh wrote: »

Do you use the same wheels for each bike? If not I'd be going for a crank based one (as stages one to be exact as I reckon they are the best bang for buck)

Stages is worth considering if you can get from US with out duty but this side of the pond is min €700. Neither of dario28 cranks are compatible with a stages crank arm so he would still have to buy a crankset which is minimum €100 probably closer to €150. I'd pay the tiny bit extra for the power2max

dario28

Ryath wrote: »

You have a bsa threaded bb on the Felt and a BB30 pressfit on the boardman. A 24mm axle crankset will fit in the bb30 frame with the right adapters but not the other way around. The best value crank based option is the FSA gossamer from Power2max for €858 delivered
http://www.power2max.de/europe/en/Produkt/bestsellers/power2max-fsa-gossamer-road/
You can use your existing bb on the felt and you'll need a 24mm to BB30 bottom bracket for the boardman. Which is €24 from p2max. You can use your existing chain rings if you stick with a compact. You can still then use the felt crankset on either bike.

There are dearer options. They have 24m axle rotor 3d cranksets for €100 more that would have same options. After that you're on to the 30mm axle Rotor and bor that would need their own bottom brackets which are dearer and would leave you not able to use your existing crankset.

Stages is worth considering if you can get from US with out duty but this side of the pond is min €700. Neither of dario28 cranks are compatible with a stages crank arm so he would still have to buy a crankset which is minimum €100 probably closer to €150. I'd pay the tiny bit extra for the power2max

Thanks For that !

coppinger

Got a power2max last august, no problems with it all winter. Just replaced the battery last week (the garmin 500 gave me ample warning the battery was dying). Using the fsa gossamer cranks, careful tightening them, the left crank loosened, just have to RTFM when installing them. Other than that the powermeter was plug and play- enjoy!!

harringtonp

coppinger wrote: »

Got a power2max last august, no problems with it all winter. Just replaced the battery last week (the garmin 500 gave me ample warning the battery was dying). Using the fsa gossamer cranks, careful tightening them, the left crank loosened, just have to RTFM when installing them. Other than that the powermeter was plug and play- enjoy!!

With RTFM presume you are referring to the correct torques ? I used a torque meter initially but I switch it so often between bikes that I do it by feel now (quicker) and hope I have it right. May go back to the torque wrench.

dario28

coppinger wrote: »

Got a power2max last august, no problems with it all winter. Just replaced the battery last week (the garmin 500 gave me ample warning the battery was dying). Using the fsa gossamer cranks, careful tightening them, the left crank loosened, just have to RTFM when installing them. Other than that the powermeter was plug and play- enjoy!!

What tools would I need for swapping them between bikes assuming im moving the powermeter and chain rings together ?

harringtonp

dario28 wrote: »

What tools would I need for swapping them between bikes assuming im moving the powermeter and chain rings together ?

8mm and 5mm Allen Keys on the Rotor 3D

coppinger

harringtonp wrote: »

With RTFM presume you are referring to the correct torques ? I used a torque meter initially but I switch it so often between bikes that I do it by feel now (quicker) and hope I have it right. May go back to the torque wrench.

I cant find the fsa pdf instruction but from memory the two bolts on the left crank had to be tightened in a specific order, inner then outer or vice versa cant remember which, but this stopped weeks of left crank loosening every couple of days. The fsa pdf details the order for tightening them.

lennymc

I have a powertap hub, I've done about 15k kms with it, raced it in road races, trained through two winters, done some cx racing and training with it without any problems. I changed the batteries a few times and the bearings are a bit grumbly now (must get them changed) but its been spot on for me, and I can change it from one bike to another in seconds. I was thinking of getting another one built into an aero wheel for permanent fitting to the race bike.

doozerie

@lennymc, Are you planning to get your Powertap bearings replaced by an official Powertap agent? If so, do you mind me asking if you'll be using Paligap and if not how much you expect it to cost?

My Powertap has only been in use for a few months but the bearings are already knackered - going by online anecdotes it's a bit hit and miss as to how long they last and I definitely fall into the miss category. By all accounts it's typically the non-drive side bearing that tends to go first so I plan to replace it myself. I've already bought what should be a good quality branded (SKF) replacement bearing, now I've just got to make the time to do it. I'll let you know how it goes if you are interested, there is obviously the risk of tears and tantrums. I considered going the official route and getting it done by Paligap but I flinched at the price of £50+parts+£19.50(shipping) for what should be a routine task and what looks like it might be a frequent one too if this initial experience proves representative.

Quigs Snr

coppinger wrote: »

Got a power2max last august, no problems with it all winter. Just replaced the battery last week (the garmin 500 gave me ample warning the battery was dying). Using the fsa gossamer cranks, careful tightening them, the left crank loosened, just have to RTFM when installing them. Other than that the powermeter was plug and play- enjoy!!

Hi, how does the P2M give the battery low warning on the Garmin 500 ? I have this same configuration and was just wondering when I should replace the battery, but if there is some setting on the Garmin that shows me when then thats great..

lennymc

doozerie wrote: »

@lennymc, Are you planning to get your Powertap bearings replaced by an official Powertap agent? If so, do you mind me asking if you'll be using Paligap and if not how much you expect it to cost?

I was just going to get Holyboy to do them, although, depending on how you get on I might give it a go myself. Couldnt be doing all that posting it away malarky.

i_surge

doozerie wrote: »

@lennymc, Are you planning to get your Powertap bearings replaced by an official Powertap agent? If so, do you mind me asking if you'll be using Paligap and if not how much you expect it to cost?

My Powertap has only been in use for a few months but the bearings are already knackered - going by online anecdotes it's a bit hit and miss as to how long they last and I definitely fall into the miss category. By all accounts it's typically the non-drive side bearing that tends to go first so I plan to replace it myself. I've already bought what should be a good quality branded (SKF) replacement bearing, now I've just got to make the time to do it. I'll let you know how it goes if you are interested, there is obviously the risk of tears and tantrums. I considered going the official route and getting it done by Paligap but I flinched at the price of £50+parts+£19.50(shipping) for what should be a routine task and what looks like it might be a frequent one too if this initial experience proves representative.

I got high quality stainless bearings from VBE in the states. They can be tapped out easily from the hub shell and then pressed in with a home made bearing press (threaded bar + nuts + the right size washers). More professional tools or at least more patience needed for the freehub bearings (which don't fail as easy) which I left to the LBS. So DIY with a little patience and googling or a simple job for any good bike shop.

I have a couple of powertaps with over 30,000km and lots of abuse in the meantime. First bearing change recently (although overdue - extra training) and a few battery replacements. The prices are very good now with a G3 hub for about 700 sterling and weight is no longer a penalty.

Murph100

Hmmmm ... nothing on their blog since March last year, but this is in todays Indo :

Engineers with a bright idea invent multiple bicycle performance tracker

Brim Brothers

The founders of this company are engineers and cycling enthusiasts, with decades of experience cycling competitively at local club level.

While out on Sunday morning winter training runs, they started discussing the advantages and disadvantages of the various cycling performance trackers (known as "power meters") on the market – and decided that they could design a better one.

Unlike their competitors, Brim Brothers' device attaches to a cyclist's shoes rather than a bicycle.

This means it works even as the user moves from bike to bike.

"Most professional or serious cyclists have multiple bikes," explains chief executive Barry Redmond (pictured).

The product will hit the market in August and is already available for pre-order. Six people currently work at the Rathfarnham-based company, including four engineers.

It has been funded by four private investors alongside Enterprise Ireland.

Chips Lovell

Quigs Snr wrote: »

Hi, how does the P2M give the battery low warning on the Garmin 500 ? I have this same configuration and was just wondering when I should replace the battery, but if there is some setting on the Garmin that shows me when then thats great..

You get a pop-up message on your Garmin screen with a low battery warning, the kind of one where you hit "enter" to clear it.

doozerie

i_surge wrote: »

I got high quality stainless bearings from VBE in the states. They can be tapped out easily from the hub shell and then pressed in with a home made bearing press (threaded bar + nuts + the right size washers). More professional tools or at least more patience needed for the freehub bearings (which don't fail as easy) which I left to the LBS. So DIY with a little patience and googling or a simple job for any good bike shop.

I’ve seen people say online that they’ve used a skewer as the threaded rod, a neat idea since the skewer is already to hand anyway.

As for removing/installing the drive-side and freehub bearings (which are #6902 bearings in my 15mm-axle SL+ hub with Campag freehub, and I believe that size is common to some of the other models too), this tool is available for #6902 sizing (video here on how to use the tool) but I’m not sure yet if there is enough clearance/access to the back of the bearings to use that specific tool.