Calibos wrote: » Was getting 80mbit down and 10mbit up and frustratingly slow DNS resolving till I bridged my EPC3925 and setup my new ASUS RT-N66U as the router. This took the load off my 3925 which was overheating under heavy load causing random disconnects. Then I set up an oul discarded i5 stock cooler powered from an oul 12v adapter to cool the Asus and UPC routers. Both cases now cool to the touch, no more random disconnects, DNS resolves IPs instantly, and rock solid 29ms ping and 105/10mbits all day and night long. I know the cooler really worked because I haven't had a single disconnect in the 2 months since the day before I installed the fan and I know bridging and the asus worked because the DNS issue and sub advertised speeds resolved the day I installed it. 60+ days now of solid 105/10 and I run speed tests about 5 or 6 times a day/night. Pity it's only the withdrawn EPC3925 that can be bridged. I'll be holding onto mine for dear life!!!
Baked.noodle wrote: » I have an AMD video card and a Q6600 on a Gigabyte board. This might be of use to you. There is a DRM handshake when you use HDMI which can account for the green/purple tinge you experienced (when it goes wrong). I have had this myself so I think that is nothing to worry about. Usually I just flick the AV options back to Terrestrial TV and back to HDMI and it goes away. I use a HDMI connection to my TV so I can pass graphic card sound through my TV to my stereo which is plugged into the headphone port on my TV. I also use the same monitor as you which is connected to the PC with a HDMI lead and a DVI dongle. I also have a pair of speakers for sound when I don't have the TV on, and they are connected to the audio out socket on my motherboard. When I first used these I got terrible feed back on the speakers. They are USB powered and I realised the feedback was because I had them powered by plugging the USB power lead into the PC. Once I used a USB wall plug to power the speakers the interference went away. I don't know about the screen going black, and it sounds like the monitor or mobo could be defective. If you could use another computer using HDMI you might be able to rule out a defective screen. Best of luck. EDIT: if the signal to the monitor was lost for some reason, the monitor will tell you there is no signal.
Morf wrote: » From the Headphones and Portable Audio Forum I know that the MoBo audio jack is much cleaner and has less noise than the case front jack at the best of times. The front jack is unusable at the moment though. I have flashed the newest BIOS for this MoBo and there seems to be an improvement in the noise but it's still beyond acceptable in the front jack. Still working fine with the DVI cable. The picture returning previously on checking the HDMI cable connection at the back of the monitor and it's now working fine (so far) with the DVI cable and being unusable with the HDMI cable leads me to think that the cable or connection could be an issue. I tried the HDMI cable on the xbox360 and it seemed to be fine. I have another HDMI cable between the TV and UPC HD box I could try just to rule the cable itself out completely. Could anyone fill me in on the HWVS RMA procedure please? It's not very clear on their site. I think I'll have to ring them, when is a good time to get them? Thanks again.
Danger781 wrote: » Would you recommended this then?if you have the bridgable EPC 3925 (basically turns off all routing on the 3925 turning it into a dumb cable modem) then yes I would definately recommend it. If you have any of the other unbridgable UPC routers then I would still recommend the ASUS with the caveat that you have to put the ASUS in your UPC routers DMZ and deal with double NAT'ing, firewall and port forwarding complications. I'm not experiencing any issues per se, in fact I'm actually quite happy. Seem to have a fairly stable connection. I do notice that some websites seem to take a while to open up on my browser so I assume as you mentioned that the DNS is taking a while to resolve. My one complaint - The WiFi signal is fecking awful :mad:Wifi is great on the ASUS How do you have the fan cooling both routers?Read the big block of text after the second photo in this threadhttp://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2057033724
A total of five pre-installed 140mm Nanoxia fan of "Deep Silence" series also contribute to the noise level of the Deep Silence at 6. The fan series has been completely developed to ensure the best combination of cooling performance and noise. To adjust the ventilation to the individual requirements, the housing comes standard with a 2-channel fan controller for up to eight fans. 's unique "Active Air Chimney" may remain closed during normal operation in order to preserve the unity of the case line and the best possible to ensure sound. If necessary, provides support to virtually "by pushing button" active venting of the casing, the "Active Air Chimney" but also the opportunity. Opening the Air Chimney pre-installed 140 mm fans are turned on and ensure rapid removal of heat from the interior of the housing. Once the Air Chimney is closed again, and the fans are disabled.
glynf wrote: » Lads, got a PC that will only start when the 24 pin is plugged out and reconnected to the mobo. Once this has been done, the case power button shuts it down & restarts as normal. If I remove the 13A socket from the wall to power it down completely, the case button stops working again unless I remove unplug & re connect the 24 pin again. Any ideas? thanks.
glynf wrote: » Tried the paper clip, the PSU starts up ok. No multimeter here so not sure if its putting out 12V. Thing that confuses me is if there is power to the PSU with the 24 pin connector disconnected from the motherboard, and I then connect the 24 pin to the motherboard-it starts up straight away. As long as I don't diconnect the PSU from the mains, the chassis power button starts and shuts down as normal. If I disconnect the mains, I cannot start it with the power button, but if I disconnect & re-connect the 24 pin as above it works again So the PSU looks OK, the power button & cabling is good, could it be just a knackered mobo? its a Pentium Dual-Core E5200 @ 2.50GHz, Socket LGA775 Foxconn board. its only purpose is to run a video capture cards.
raymix wrote: » 1) IPS - what's with all the fuss about it, is it that good?
2) 60Hz vs 100Hz vs 120Hz. I understand 120Hz would require me to get a second GPU. But even at 60 fps capped with vsync, the blurriness annoys the living crap out of me.
3) 24" vs 27" - obviously the bigger the better, but wouldn't bigger screen suffer pixelation?
4) response time - how important is 2ms vs 5ms in real world?
5) resolution - I like 1080p, but I wouldn't mind bigger resolution as long as it's HD 16:9. What do you think of 2560 x 1440? Would single 670 be enough for such resolution? I think it would let me turn off AA completely
BloodBath wrote: » You should have just turned down your old Arctic ones. They are fine when running at around 800-900 rpm.
Headshot wrote: » Must be my frist time seeing windows 8 as a recommended spec for a game BF4
Gumbi wrote: » And 3GB VRAM. TBH, it sounds like AMD are pushing that. I'm sure the extra VRAM will come in handy soon enough, but that time is not yet upon us.
Danger781 wrote: » BF3 @ 1440p high quality I'm almost positive I've seen them going well above 2GB..
NTMK wrote: » Most my 6970's hit @1440 ultra was 1.6-7. I can test later to see though
