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loader joystick problem

dryan

Bit of a problem with the loader joystick.
Up/down movements working fine.
tilt grab up/down working fine.
Open/close grab not working.

To open/close the grab, you have to push a button at the top of the joystick and use the same movements to tilt the grab.

This was working fine but in the last few weeks, i have noticed every now and then, the grab open/close operations wouldnt work. Today, it just gave up.

Any help appreciated.
Thanks.

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Bizzum

We had a Rossmore loader that used to do the very same.
It was a poor connection outside where the electrics plug into their housing.

dryan

Have a quickie loader myself - might try a squirt of WD40 into that connector tomorrow.
How did you solve the problem?

Bizzum

dryan wrote: »

How did you solve the problem?

I discovered that the problem was at this point by wiggling the connection at the same time as operating the joystick. Then I opened the male part and found the poor connection. Tightened it up and it worked. I don't know for how long it worked because we sold both tractor and loader some time later.

dar31

fuse just off the battery....

massey6480

:pac:You should check the wire coming up through the joystick It can break at the base of the joystick wear the loader cables are connected The problem is it will break under the cover and you wont see it A tip on how to find it is to remove the top of the joystick and test for current there is 3 wires in a quicke joystick one to bring up the current and the other 2 for taking it down from the buttons If you have current coming its probably the wire going out as you only use one button you can just swapover the wires in the joystick BUT AWORD OF WARNING if you have to change the wirer in the joystick the pipe for the joystick is very tight only a very light wire will fit through and also pull through a string tied to the old wire to make pulling through the new wire easier

alleyb

could be on line fuse from your power sourse to loader

vincenzolorenzo

Could be a fuse problem as mentioned or else a bad connection inside the joystick. If you can take the top cover off you'll see the connections to the buttons. If anything is loose or looks a bit dodgy then time to get the soldering iron out

dryan

Gave the loader connections a squirt of WD40 last night. started her up and all working fine. By the time i got the tractor out of the shed, it stopped working again.
Not a fuse problem me thinks, Sounds like a connection problem inside the stick as once there was a bit of vibration from tractor running, it stopped working.
Will rip it this evening to have a look.

vanderbadger

dryan wrote: »

Gave the loader connections a squirt of WD40 last night. started her up and all working fine. By the time i got the tractor out of the shed, it stopped working again.
Not a fuse problem me thinks, Sounds like a connection problem inside the stick as once there was a bit of vibration from tractor running, it stopped working.
Will rip it this evening to have a look.

did you ever find the problem here dryan?

munkus

Must say that this site is a great resource. Stephen's day I was putting out silage and half way through the open/close function of the grab stopped working. Had a quick look here and found some good suggestions. Popped the cap of the jojstick and found one of the cables was broken, soldered it back and all fine. Thanks to all above!

td5man

munkus wrote: »

Must say that this site is a great resource. Stephen's day I was putting out silage and half way through the open/close function of the grab stopped working. Had a quick look here and found some good suggestions. Popped the cap of the jojstick and found one of the cables was broken, soldered it back and all fine. Thanks to all above!

Button packed up on mine a couple of years ago quicke wanted 300 as you had to replace the joystick, mf was 200 for the same got a button for €4 from an electronics supplier.

pakalasa

A can of switch cleaner is a very handy thing to have around the farm for electric connections acting up, tailgate lights on trailers etc. It removes the build up has occurs over time on the copper.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/switch-cleaner-27515

vanderbadger

i lost the use of the 2nd function button on joystick there afew mths ago, rang mechanic and he said that the fuse was wired straight back to battery, said the fuse holder gets corroded and to cut out fuse and join wires..sure enough it did the trick

timple23

sorry to bump an old thread but on the quicke loader the grab will not open or close when the loader is at a certain height and higher ( once headstock is level with top of bonnet approx)

when loader is below this level the grab will open and close 100% of the time, checked 7 pin connection and no wires loose, also checked oil levels, any idea what might be wrong, it is unusual that it is only when the loader is high that is stops working.

pedigree 6

timple23 wrote: »

sorry to bump an old thread but on the quicke loader the grab will not open or close when the loader is at a certain height and higher ( once headstock is level with top of bonnet approx)

when loader is below this level the grab will open and close 100% of the time, checked 7 pin connection and no wires loose, also checked oil levels, any idea what might be wrong, it is unusual that it is only when the loader is high that is stops working.

Not sure which Quicke loader you have but if it's like mine.
Check the plug on the loader near the headstock that controls the 3rd service.
See if it's loose or that the power is getting there.

blue5000

timple23 wrote: »

sorry to bump an old thread but on the quicke loader the grab will not open or close when the loader is at a certain height and higher ( once headstock is level with top of bonnet approx)

when loader is below this level the grab will open and close 100% of the time, checked 7 pin connection and no wires loose, also checked oil levels, any idea what might be wrong, it is unusual that it is only when the loader is high that is stops working.

No problem, I'll leave it open as it's relevant to your problem, but a lot of the old posters here have gone.

queueeye

timple23 wrote: »

sorry to bump an old thread but on the quicke loader the grab will not open or close when the loader is at a certain height and higher ( once headstock is level with top of bonnet approx)

when loader is below this level the grab will open and close 100% of the time, checked 7 pin connection and no wires loose, also checked oil levels, any idea what might be wrong, it is unusual that it is only when the loader is high that is stops working.

It's either a loose connection or low oil level in tractor back end. As you raise the loader the oil is being drained, it may be that there's insufficient oil left to operate the grab.

larthehar

timple23 wrote: »

sorry to bump an old thread but on the quicke loader the grab will not open or close when the loader is at a certain height and higher ( once headstock is level with top of bonnet approx)

when loader is below this level the grab will open and close 100% of the time, checked 7 pin connection and no wires loose, also checked oil levels, any idea what might be wrong, it is unusual that it is only when the loader is high that is stops working.

I would check the cable.. sounds like when the loader is at a certain angle or above it is disconnecting the cable.. could be a broken wire internally.. see if there is strain on it at any point when it is up..

tom.cam89

Hi, I saw this thread and hoping someone may be able to assist on a similar issuing I'm having with the joystick. As some other users are finding, the opening/closing on our grab stops working due to the connections breaking at the top of the joystick (it's a massey/quickie loader 873). However when I solder the wires back to the pins, it will only last a few weeks. I've even replaced the button thinking that the pins were malfunctioning but this hasn't fixed it. I'm just wondering could the two wires be shorting and thus breaking the solder or is there some other issue I'm missing?

patsy_mccabe

Can you get the proper connectors for the wire. Soldering to hold on a wire is only good for low currents.

tom.cam89

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Can you get the proper connectors for the wire. Soldering to hold on a wire is only good for low currents.

Good point. They were always soldered so I just assumed it would hold. I have wire connectors so I'll give that a go. Thanks for the response.

valtra2

Have a rossmore loader and 3rd series stoped working. Have power all the way up to the soliniod but no moment. It will open manually when overrides so it seems like soliniod problem. Anyone have same problem and where would you find one.

jfh

Have a intermediant problem with the open\close of my rossmore loader, works only about 2 out of 10 times, if it didn't work at all, id suspect the cable in the joystick as I found that broken before but this is annoying as some days it's fine other days not a hope of openning it, any ideas?

FintanMcluskey

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121417522#Comment_121417522

Are you referring to crowd and dump or third service?

minerleague

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121417522#Comment_121417522

The electric plug that you disconnect when taking off loader? ( taking power out to solenoid)

jfh

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121417608#Comment_121417608

Yeah I opened that up alright but didn't notice anything, what were you suggesting that I do? Thsnks

jfh

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121417570#Comment_121417570

Sorry not very mechanical, can you explain please

jfh

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121417800#Comment_121417800

Just checked this, it's third service

minerleague

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121417774#Comment_121417774

Does it feel tight? maybe prise out the metal tabs on the male end a little to get a better connection, other than that sounds like a loose connection somewhere ( maybe where wires enter solenoid out on loader? )

Tonynewholland

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121417522#Comment_121417522

Either the wiring or the solenoid. Usually a wire in or near the joystick