raglan wrote: » Hi Stove Fan, Like EMG74, we have recently installed a Stratford stove but it's EB16. I have a question about the pipe stat linked to the pump. Our plumber had it set at 50 degrees, but stove seemd to take ages to heat water so we put it higher to 70. We are currently experimenting with the stove and thermostatic controls etc...to maximise use of it but is there any specific reason pipe stat should be set at 45-55, or are we doing harm with the higher setting??? Thanks for your help.
vfitzpatrick wrote: » Hi All! I'm sorry if something similar has been asked already! I'm building a house at the moment which is air tight with the heat recovery system in it! I have decided to put a stove in but i have already got foundations in and am wondering if it can be done considering i have no external air supply at the moment. can anybody tell me if there is an easy way to do this or do i have to create this external air supply? Thanks in advance
DON44 wrote: » FLEXIBLE STOVE PIPE? Hi Stove Fan, Is there such a thing as a flexible stove pipe (as opposed to the flue liner)? The reason I ask is that my chimney flue is not centrally located in my fireplace and as a result when I go to fit my new stove on the hearth, it is sitting off-centre. I don't really have enough room to put in enough bends to rectify this. There is only a very short distance (8" or so) to be bridged from the rear stove outlet to the clay pipe adaptor and it would make life very easy is I could bridge this gap with some kind of flexible piping. Many thanks DON
vfitzpatrick wrote: » Thank you for your help Stove Fan Unfortunately that is not good news for me!!! It is not at an external wall and we have poured the base already! Back to the drawing board for me I think
jeni wrote: » Hiyas, anyone know what we should do?? We installed a stove a few weeks ago, as we had no fire place we built one ourselves using fire proof plaster board, anyway around the stove we tiled with fake sandstone but the heat from the stove is what looks like burning the tile behind it, well its changing the colour anyway, should we re-tile with real stone or should it be ok Thanks
Stove Fan wrote: » Hi, yes the 40,000btu boiler should just about run your rads and hot water. It may be advisable while the system is drained to install a few thermostatic rad valves on the radiators in the rooms that can be cooler. Yes you do need 1 inch pipes from stove to hotpress and a twin coil hot water cylinder. The stove can sit on the hearth infront providing the hearth it sits on projects 300mm infront and 6 inches either side. An insert may be easier and take up less room? Make sure the room heat of the oak doesnt produce more than 3-4kw to the room. Stove Fan:)
Katie OS wrote: » One last query stove fan and I promise not to bother you again. He says that he will put in a flexible flue and insulation. Is this a good idea. Why flexible when we have a straight chimney as we live in a bungalow? Is there some reason why flexible is best and how would this work for cleaning the chimney in the future? KatieOS:eek:
winster wrote: » Hi Does anyone know anything about the invicta range of woodburning stoves. I am looking at getting the invicta modena but can't find any reviews for it. I need a stove with a fairly high output and I really like the look of the modena. Thanks
Stove Fan wrote: » Hi, no problem:) Yes lining the chimney and backfilling with vermiculite insulation is a great job as the existing chimney is generally too big and can suffer condensation and poor draw as the chimney absorbs the heat from the flue gases. The liner is flexible so as to push it down the chimney with a rope attatched and a helper below pulling while the person above pushes and guides it down. Its flexible as generally there are bends in chimneys due to upstairs fireplace etc, so make it one type to suit all chimneys. Your installer should install 904 grade stainless steel liner if predominantly using coal rather than just wood. For sweeping. The chimney may be able to be swept through the stove but I would advice the installer to buy a length of enamel pipe or bend if needed with a soot door for sweeping. If using the top exit on the stove this would be on the straight pipe directly above or at an elbow if needed.http://www.fluesystems.com/shop/Stove_Pipe.html Stove Fan:)
Stove Fan wrote: » 45 degrees is the minimum return temperature to prevent condensation forming on the back boiler so setting it between 45-55 degrees is the correct setting. At 70 degrees it would get the domestic hot water hotter but take longer to switch the pump on to heat the rads. 50 degrees sounds about right. If your burning turf please bear in mind the heat output is far reduced than coal or wood. You will need a blazing fire going to initially heat the rads. Put the boiler thermostat on max. How big is your system, saves me going back to see? Stove Fan:)
Stove Fan wrote: » Sounds a great idea:) Stove Fan:)
dos30 wrote: » Hi StoveFan/All, Currently building a house close to the passive spec. PHPP show it as requiring 19.5kWh/m2/year as opposed to the PH spec of 15kWh/m2/year. We've one large open planning kitchen/dining/living area where we're planning on putting a stove. Dimensions are 12m x 5.5m x vaulted ceiling up to 3.9m. A heat pump is our main heating supply, but this room has a full length glass wall, so will need extra heat from a stove during the winter. What are your thoughts on sizing a stove? Do you've any recommendations for a room sealed stove? Using the schiedel flue and chimney system if that makes any difference. Thanks in advance
Katie OS wrote: » That great, thanks, though I think it will be the rear exit on the stove if it has to go out on the hearth, will this make sweeping more difficult? KatieOS:eek:
raglan wrote: » Thanks Stove Fan, does it matter how high boiler thermostat is set too, what would be the ideal temperature? Just finding our feet with it, it was between the EB12 and EB16 stove, and we went with the 16. It's for a 1890 sq ft house I posted asking your advice during the summer. Just finding our feet with it to use it to its optimum. We had a Oisin non boiler before which had great heat to the room, want to use this to its best to get heat to the room while maintaining heat to rads etc....thanks again.
Stove Fan wrote: » Hi Your stove should heat most of the Kitchen/living room/conservatory on it's own so have only based the figure on the remaining rads. Your new stove will/should be plumbed to heat upstairs and downstairs rads if thats what you want Your looking for a stove with a 15kw-18kw back boiler and around 7kw to the room. with having no double doors to the kitchen the heat should circulate to the other rooms. Your actual rads equate to around 12kw but you need to allow 2-3kw for domestic hot water. Plus I have allowed a bit extra output incase you need some rads on in conservatory. I personally would consider the arrow EB16.http://www.stratfordboilerstoves.co....s/eb16-he.html If your system is zoned and you didnt heat both zones at once you could install a smaller output boiler stove, but myself I would go and heat all the rads I mentioned. The stanley erin and EB12 boiler output would be too small a boiler output to heat all the rads I mentioned.
bpm89 wrote: » Stove fan, Really interested on what you could add here as i have seen the brilliant advice you are giving on stoves in general and fair play to you. Apologies for just jumping in here but am new to this so please excuse me. I am looking for some response of anyone who has installed an Oil Fulled back burning stove (i.e fed by kerosene tank, heating water and rads). The house is a 3 bed semi detached built around 1960 with a small extension so poor installation is a given and heat loss etc. Plans to improve insulation however. The current system is a oil boiler CH system, heating 10 rads at present. The plan is to remove the boiler and have a back burning stove fitted in the kitchen of the house fed directly by the kerosene tank to heat the living area (kitchen) and also the rads and water for the entire house. (2 storey house). The future plan is to incorporate solar panels to help the system be more efficient but that will be a year or so down the line. What i am looking for is anyone in the same situation who has retrofitted one to an old house and what kW is required etc (i am assuming an 8kW stove will be sufficient but have been told i will need an 18kW). The saving they have found compared to say a multifuel stove or any informed opinions. I am an engineer so have little practical experience when it comes to plumbing electrical other than a keen DIYer. The work will be carried out by qualified plumbers/builder etc but i'm just doing some research before i commit to my decision. Thank you in advance.
mk2 wrote: » Hi stovefan a friend is looking for a boiler stove in his 2 bed bungalow his sitting room is 16'x12'5 it has two single doors on it one leading to the hallway and one going into the conservatory it has insulation there are 8 rads 2x 104 x 30 double 2x 54x54 double 1x 91x55 single 2x 121x55 double 1x 91x55 double Could you calculate the kw output he would need and maybe recommend a few stoves that might suit his needs! Thanks mk2!
Joe10000 wrote: » I am looking at the option of a stove with a boiler to heat the house and a couple of people have told me to stay well clear, mostly for two reasons. First is that I will have to feed it with fuel every 30 minutes in order to keep it hot enough to heat the rads and by doing this the room the stove is in will be unbearably hot. (irrespective of the advertised output for the room) Secondly is the dirt, both the storage of fuel and the waste ash. Does anybody agree with these sentiments ? Thanks
famlitsku wrote: » Hi, we've just had a quote to put 2 stoves in and we think the installation costs are v. high. 2 5kw free-standing stoves as space heaters. I is to replace an existing stove; slate slab and flue in place, just needs max 2m of flue to connect it - installation cost 650 euro. The other is going in a fireplace; old 2 storey red brick house, chimney needs to be lined - quote of 1200 euro to install. What do you think? Thanks!!
