cormie wrote: » What kind of build quality reputation does Korea have on electronics? I know Japan is high while China is low, where does Korea fall?
Deleted User wrote: » More dashcam footage of a dangerous driver. Woman hits pedestrian while driving dangerously, drives off and denies everything when caught. Dashcam footage secures conviction.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ex6dHzcgOE&feature=youtu.be
franksm wrote: » Jeasras, that's nice... I have mine wired into existing connections above the mirror. On a TT, I had to use a multimeter to find what wires were 'live' when the ignition was on. The overhead console provides 12V for the map lights, which were useable. No wiring diagram for this car is easily available. For the Jag, I did have a wiring diagram, so it was easier to find. I used wires which were to provide 12V for an X10 or garage-door-opener button. In an MX5, which I have now removed the Roadhawk from (security reasons :eek:), there were no suitable connections available (only permanent 12V was provided to the console lamp) so I had to run wires along the inside of the windscreen trim and down to behind the dash. Not a big deal, but not the easiest thing to be doing. Brittle plastic in a 16 year old Mazda TT XK8
Shane732 wrote: » Anyway I assume similar to the TT that the over-head reader lights and electric gates opener will give me the 12V connection.
franksm wrote: » Is there a wiring diagram available ? See if there are optional extras for the overhead console, like 'homelink', 'X10', 'remote control', 'gate opener', or 'garage opener' If not, here's the broad procedure about finding the correct wire: - pop open the overhead console. It'll either have screws holding it in place (look under the bulbs if they're not visible) or more likely, it's a press fit so you just have to carefully lever the unit off. - find the wire from your wiring diagram and test it with a multitester to see if it gives 12V with the ignition on, or the car unlocked. Some cars like Audis provide 12V as soon as the car is unlocked, others like Jaguar only when the ignition is turned on. - if you don't know the wire, carefully test all of the wires available to see if any have 12V. - if you have found wires, now remove the keys from the ignition and lock the car up with you in the front seat. Again test the wire(s) you found 12V on. You're looking to see if any go to zero Volts when the car is locked. - Hopefully by now you've found one ore more wires that are 'switched 12V'. Double-check the internet to see if you can find out what they're for, as you don't want to for example connect into wires that go to the ultrasonic sensors for the alarm. - You'll also need to find an earth wire, but that's pretty easy as there's usually a bolt in and around the overhead console that you can run a wire and ring-terminal from. - the only real problem that can crop up now is that the circuit you will connect to may not have enough power to feed your camera. Some cars have their own way of telling you this (the Audi flashes its interior lights if the power draw is too large; other cars might actually suffer a blown fuse if you draw too much power) - crimp or solder a red wire from your switched 12V connection to an inline fuse; run a black wire from the earth point you identified - if your camera takes 12V, then chop the end off the camera's power lead and hook up the red wire to the +ve wire and the black wire to the -ve. Usually they're coloured in the lead as red and black respectively. - if your camera takes 5V, then you'll need to connect your red 12V wire and black earth wire to the 'cigarette adaptor' that came with your camera. You'll need to hide the adaptor up in the overhead console. This all presumes some proficiency in tracing wires, using a multimeter (make sure not to short anything out with the probes!), and crimping or soldering. The other alternative is to just run the wire from your cigarette adaptor through the overhead console and around the top and side of the windscreen, and down under the dash. And then plug the adaptor into the cigarette lighter. Not ideal really. Of course the other alternative is to pay an auto electrician (alarm installer) to do this work - they'll probably charge you an hour's labour, maybe 50 quid ! ^that's all a braindump, but it's more or less the procedure. If you're lucky it'll take 20 mins.
franksm wrote: » BTW one more from me - this time in Maynooth. This guy was going to drift through a red light, but managed to stop in time after I flashed at him. After that - don't know if he decided to brake-test me (and the car behind me) at the next lights, or if he's just colour-blind... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UWeA025A_Tc
TheTechGuy wrote: » Any recommendations on one for under the €30 mark? Not looking for anything fancy, my only requirement is that its very small as I'd like to position it behind the rear view mirror.
cormie wrote: » I'm half interested in getting a blackvue, I've a friend in Korea and with a bit of planning I may be able to get my own cheaper than any group buy. I may have to resign to the fact I've bricked 3 DRS1100's/Roadhawks and I believe dash cams are such an essential driving accompaniment, that I should replace the 3 straight away. I'd much prefer if there was a 3 in 1 Sat Nav/GPS Tracker/Black Box, but that may be a long wait away. Unless anyone believes a smart phone has enough processing power to be all 3?
cormie wrote: » What kind of pricing are they talking on the group buy? You need to be a member to see the page you linked to
The camera retails at £250 in the UK - you can get it cheaper on Ebay but by the time you pay for shipping and customs its up at something like €260 to bring one it, plus you really have fe*k all come back if there are any problems with the camera. Anyway I was speaking to the authorised reseller of BlackVue in the UK and they offered a group buy. The group buy is as follows: 20 units £199 50 units £169 Shipping to Dublin (Insured TNT 2-3 days) 20 units £44.65 (£2.23 per unit) 50 units £78.21 (£1.56 per unit)
Nissan doctor wrote: » Another from today, on the exact same roundabout as my other roundabout/wrong lane video:rolleyes: You can see the Renault Flatulence in the left lane before it goes off camera, as I begin to continue straight, I just notice the headlights of the influenza coming towards my passanger door out of the corner of my eye. It was VERY close! It was rush hour traffic and I'm not one who would be arsed jumping out to an idiot but as I went to drive on he beeped at me, which I admit almost made me stop again, until all the cars he was now blocking in the lane behind me started lifting him out of it:Phttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dy6ti7Q0aqA
Damien360 wrote: » I know that junction well. I am always wary of the 2 lanes going on into ballymun for that very reason. I always change to the left lane as I go around to avoid that.
Damien360 wrote: » It gets even funnier when the lights are red for the cue to go southbound on the M50. You could end up in the cue with those on your left going southbound. They could argue they are doing the same as you from their entrance and 2 lanes entering the M50 south.
Nissan doctor wrote: » That option would only add to issues when both lanes are full at rush hour.
Nissan doctor wrote: » That option would only add to issues when both lanes are full at rush hour. The entry from ballymun to the southbound M50 is completely seperate to the southbound exit off the roundabout. If you are coming from ballymun and stopped at the traffic lights at the roundabout then you aren't/can't go southbound.
Damien360 wrote: » I was on about coming off M2/N2 and heading for southbound M50.
Nissan doctor wrote: » Which is a completely different place/exit to the above video
franksm wrote: » Funny that you are talking about the Ballymun roundabout, here's a vid I took yesterday. Just watch the chaos, I thought we'd be witness to two or three sideswipes but it all just seems 'normal' for this roundabout.
![Photo of [Deleted User]](https://wd.vanillicon.com/v2/d2d5c182a42f454338be924e2bdfb8fa.svg)
