No wobble at all.
not one of the affected ultegra chainsets, no?
nah, Cannondale SI
D7
The chain is slightly dry (any recommendations for chain lube ?)
Check and make sure the Quick Release are tight enough, I had an awful creak myself for a few months, changed and checked loads of parts and then luckily (I know!!) I had a puncture and had to remove the rear wheel when I noted the QR was not very tight, tightened when putting the wheel back on and next day creak was gone!
Just got these in the post, before I put one on it's quite clear in the instructions that it's only for emergency use, and I should replace the tyre as soon as possible. But the impression I get on here is this is something I can put on and leave on until the tyre needs to be replaced for other reasons. Is that correct?
They're designed to cover big gashes in a tyre to get you home. That's not what you have. Put the boot on and forget about it, it'll be fine. As above, if you're still concerned about it, you can try gluing it too.
Really, my initial point was more about your perception of the cut. It's not really much of anything, but if you are concerned, and you mitigate those concerns, you'll be happier when you're on the bike, and not be worried about it.
Good shout; I gave it a go and had no luck. For a few pedal strokes I thought it did the trick but then the noise came back. I think I'll book her in for Thursday, looks like rain anyway
Did you check what shape the BB is in?
No I haven't. I started to try and take the pedal crank off with an 8mm key. Even with a lot of pressure it wasnt budging and then I thought that even if I get it off, I dont have the tools or where-withall to fix anything behind it; so I left it. My thinking is that if the BB is knackered it's a job for the shop anyway.
Got given a nice Trek to use as a beater but the threads on this crank arm are completely gone, pedal is all wobbly.
How do I separate the crank arm from the cogs or does it not come off? Any idea how to identify it to get a replacement for the whole thing or should I just go to a bike shop? Everything else immaculate just this pedal:
I wouldn't say they can be separated. I'd be using a helicoil here
Thanks, is that a bike shop job so?
Tbh the teeth are a bit worn maybe I should just replace the whole thing, where would I source an exact replacement these days would you know?
It depends on your approach to DIY on your bike. I'd be looking at it as an opportunity to purchase the tools for the job. You might find it makes more sense to go to a bike shop that's set up for this, especially as it'll be a thread size that's not common in the sets you'll buy online for general thread repair
Helicoil from an old school bike shop, should be cheap enough. This said, a square taper triple will be less than 40 euro and it looks like you know enough to fit it.
Ill fit it no problem just no clue what to buy or from where, been ages since I did anything like that, where would I get one the right size?
Would this one be a direct replacement?
https://www.decathlon.ie/p/197591-53663-7-8-9-speed-mtb-triple-crankset-44-32-22-175-mm-square-axle.html
2 things,
Crank length is 175mm vs 170mm on your old ones.
Also, it looks like the cogs are smaller at 44\32\22 vs possibly 48/38/28, it will give you less gear range
Do you think I could just throw it in anyway? Its literally just a beater for going up and down to the shops, as long as it had some gears? Or where would be a good place to source a replacement? Decatholon seems like the only cheap ones out there, maybe Ill just drop it in for rethreading.
Then itll do fine.
Brilliant thanks.
A quick look at any German big ships will get a replacement posted out for 30 with the ability to select crank length eg a Shimano Tourney 3x on bike24, 170mm, 48/38/28 is 19euro plus 10 postage
After the winter sitting in my shed, my spokes & s.nipples have gotten some corrosion on them. To be fair it was beginning last year. The rims & hubs are in good nick, disc brakes. So ive decided to rebuild them. Ive yet to measure them.
Has anyone any recommendations for what might be the best brand to purchase? They're for askiums (not sure what year), round straight pull & not looking at double butted.
I can't remember for your specific model but I always thought Mavic used Mavic spokes. Otherwise DT swiss spokes have been the best for me over the years of wheel building.
Anyone have a recommendation for road tyre sealant?
I got Efetto Mariposa from Bikeinn before Christmas and happy so far. It's done a much better job at sealing a tyre that was just wasn't holding air properly with Stans. Link below (this is 250ml but they had it in 1l when I bought it)
The Stans Raceday (?) is supposed to be very good, but is a faff to use from my understanding (too viscous to be injected through the valve stem) so I avoided
Taking the title of the thread literally....I feel I should be able to solve this myself.
The steering on my old bike, a Specialised Crossroads was getting very sticky/clicky. So I decided to service it, having watched a few videos. I took the long bolt out of the headset using an allen. All good so far. But this didn't seem to unseize anything.
Now I've decided to buy a new bike but until I get that done, I want to get the headset bolt back in place so i can continue to use it. But I can't seem to make it work. Its just not "catching". Its like the bolt isn't long enough to reach whatever it should be screwed into. I tried turning the bike upside down in case something internal had dropped down but nothing seems to be moving inside the headset.
Any yet the steering doesn't seem to be loose and nothing seems impacted by taking out the bolt. I'm half thinking of just tootling gently into work without the bolt in....but that seems madness, it must have a function!
If I've explained it properly maybe someone can suggest how I get the bolt back attached?
any photos?
I think the issue is trying to centre the bolt when its so long is very tricky. It does not seem to naturally settle into a slot. And when the bolt and the cap are in place it sits snugly on the tube, rather than sits a little above it as you might expect, until you screw it in. So basically I am unable to screw it in.
Bike definitely not usable, the wheel and handlebars can be twisted in opposite directions.
When I remove the cap piece, the bolt goes way deep. I don't know how that tallies with the bolt having been unscrewed from something when taking it off, unless the thing it was screwed into has slipped further down. Weird.
That's a threaded headset I think. There's a star nut in the fork. That might have dropped out of position. You'll need to unscrew the large lock nut to free up the headset. You might find the star nut in there, or may have to get a new one.
There are some videos on how to service a thread less headset on YouTube.
