You could try Radionics for stainless steel options. They are just off Herberton Road close to the canal
https://ie.rs-online.com/web/c/fasteners-fixings/
Does anyone own a Specialized Tricross Sport - I need to fit a new headset (Easy I hear you say!), but even my lbs is stumped by it. I'll post some pics tomorrow. Just wondering if anyone has replaced a headset on one of these before. Thanks!
Baker Street Fixings in Bulford Business Park in Kilcoole in Wicklow are brilliant if you are anywhere near there. you can buy pretty much every type of nut, bolt, washer, fastener you can think of, mostly individually. Stainless or normal, whatever type of head you need usually too.
I've a stuck alloy seat post to a steel Kona frame. It's pretty solid.
Any DIY suggestions or remedies that people have tried? Or is it a job for a bike shop?
What have you tried so far? Have you access to tools like a bench vice?
Have just undone the seat clamp and then tried to use brute force using the saddle for leverage. I've lubricated the contact area but no joy.
Do you have access to a bench vice? Best results I've had is clamping the seatpost in the vice and rotating the frame around it
To really get penetration with the wd40 or whatever you're using, I'd be turning the frame upside down, and putting a big dose of it down the seat tube, through the BB or whatever other way you might have access.
That sounds terminal. A job for the hacksaw blade, a couple of evenings, the radio and a pot of tea.
Cut the seatpost off 15mm above the frame then carefully take an individual hacksaw blade and cut vertically down the inside of the tube - trying not to saw through to the frame. Cut a few notches out and then try to encourage some of the seatpost free of the frame. This takes an inordinate amount of time.
If you do go nuclear, an adjustable reamer is invaluable to complete the job
So i've the wheels on the gravel bike setup tubeless. Set them up Jan of this year. Topped up the sealant mid summer and no issues with retaining air. I noticed recently that the back wheel is pretty much flat after a few days, so I topped it up again but she'd be flat again in a day or two. Tightened the value core just to be sure and it helped slightly, but still loosing air. The tyre hasn't come off at all since the initial setup.
I assume its the tape thats possibly come away or been damage. I just don't know how. I've just received some valve cores from amazon to see if they make any difference. Any one else had this issue?
Spray some soapy water around the valve, see if you can see air escaping
Yeah i'll try that before throwing a new valve in. Just hoping its not the tape…
That is well worth a try. It has been said that using acetone in conjunction with a penetrating fluid helps the stuff to really get in there. Be careful with acetone as it’s highly flammable.
For those who are good with metal work this guy on YouTube built an extractor that is the biz.
That's really nicely made, but might be beyond the scope of some on here.
Here's a relatively similar setup that might be easier ( or at least look easier) to put togther
Acetone also melts plastic, so be careful*
*learned the hard way when cleaning plates in a lab
Thx for the reply Cletus.
I've turned the bike over and put WD40 through the bottom bracket area but that hasn't loosened it enough to get any budge on the seatpost.
As you say next step is to try a bench vice. Failing that a hacksaw.
Thx Peterx
I think you might be right. I don't have tools to do this though. Might try LBS to see if its worth my while.
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Great tips, thanks everyone.
IIRC steel has a lower coefficient of expansion than aluminium, so freezing the seat tube area might in theory cause the aluminium seatpost to contract more than the steel of the seat tube, with the goal being that it might break some of the chemical bond between them. IIRC there's a gas you can get which does this but i don't know how successful it'd be.
If you're in South Kildare or close, you can give it a shot in my shed
a comment on one of the videos above suggested using a slide hammer, which is not something I've come across before but auto mechanics might have one you could borrow. Here's a video demonstrating it
I also have a slide hammer, if you're close enough
We had to fabricate a fairly beefy slide hammer once to remove a bent stub auger from the grain tank of a combine harvester, I had to empty the bloody thing with a bucket before we could use it, there are worse things in life than a stuck seatpost….
The part circled was lost when I had the wheel off the bike for a prolonged time while the wheel was getting fixed. What is the part circled called, and is there anywhere I can pick up a new one without buying the whole Shimano roller brake? Second question: If I cannot find the part, I'll likely upgrade to the better roller brakes. Is there much to replace this brake with the newer Shimano roller brake like this https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/shimano-nexus-br-c6000-rear-brake-8.2-mm/137973455/p?utm_source=google_products&utm_medium=merchant&id_producte=12546533&country=ie&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAl4a6BhBqEiwAqvrquntRtfmkDfXr5rM2w-CscscJbvHH_8G8Iak7lYFTNrtafSsGmDKYThoCFq4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds ? The local bike shop which normally likes to avoid going near the cargo bike, has offered to replace it once I get the park.
Hi,
Could someone advise the correct disc brake spacers for Cannondale Gravel Bike linked.
Have looked on Amazon and there's various types with e.g. fits for M315,M355,M395..etc.
What's the M number? I can't see it anywhere in the bike spec or on the brakes themselves!
Thank you.
Not the same brakes as my Topstone but I've always found these a great help looking for both info and spares,
https://www.cannondalespares.com/
https://www.cannondale-parts.de/en_US
Right, a question on behalf of a friend of mine. Can you get 3x9 brifters with hydraulic brakes?
Having the same pull ratio as Shimano 9 speed would be a definite plus
Use them with Hy/Rds?
The bike already has full hydraulic brakes and hoses. Don't ask. It's a whole thing
