One for the tubeless folk here. I run tubeless on the winter bike and tubed on the race and cx bikes. Both those other bikes however have relatively new wheelsets albeit ones that are not TLR. Question is can you convert any standard wheel to TLR? I was going to give it a crack and see. Set of tubeless tyres, change the rim tape to tubeless, vales, sealant and see what happens.
Anyone tried it?
There's videos all over YouTube of people trying various "ghetto" tubeless setups. Some are using gorilla tape, some are using wheelsets not designed to be tubeless, all with varying levels of success.
It's a small enough outlay (if you have the tyres already) to give it a go.
As @cletus said, small outlay and in the majority of situations it will work without issue
Question about wheel rebuild and whether it would be worth it: the braking surface on my Scribes is gone now. They were good (~€450) wheels and I like the (loud) noise from the freehub.
I think the hubs themselves are fine. I can get new Scribe rims for just under €100 delivered.
I'm guessing (but feel free to correct me) that new spokes, fitting and truing would be another €100-150.
I have a set of cheap Miche wheels I can use for commuting (and they're grand) but is it really worth spending the ~€200-250 on the Scribes for winter spins and maybe a French family holiday?
The hubs will also need work eventually so make sure that's possible. I had a set of Newman hubs but the replacement parts and effort were so cheap and easy, it was definitely worth it.
This said, Scribe maybe not name brand wheels but they have a decent rep and the question should be, is 250 a good price for effectively new, decent quality wheels.
Ah, I'd get the hubs checked during the job but don't believe there are any issues with them and they are servicable).
last time i had it done (10 years ago) derek humphries rebuilt a wheel for €30 all in for me. there was nothing special about the spokes though.
Definitely worth it in my opinion. Effectively a new set of wheels for the money. Always handy to have a decent set of spare wheels. And what’s the alternative? Throw the lot in the skip
Cool, thanks folks.
I'd be wary of doing it on a road wheelset with the higher pressures involved, but maybe that's just me.
Not 105, but I have fitted a 36 tooth to a Tiagra level non-series rear mech, not long, but rated for 34, by adjusting the B scree. That said the 105 is probably only rated for 28 or 30. Would a Wolftooth work?
The problem with the Wolftooth (or any of the derailleur mounting point extender) is that while they address the issue of getting the mech to clear the cassette, they do nothing to improve the capacity of the derailleur chain wrap, which is a problem with the wide range cassettes - even more so if the front chainset is a double.
BTW, Shimano ratings tend to be very conservative - if they say that a mech is rated for 30T, in most cases you can push it to 32 or even 34 without issue. Currently running a 34T cassette on a Dura Ace mech rated at 30T and have been for ~ 6 years without a problem.
True, but given that the post mentioned CX, I presumed that it was a similar wheelset
No need to replace the spokes or nipples, just the rims need replacing. Replace any damaged nipples as necessary but there might not be any
Find a good wheel builder and you should be as good as new to €200, €50 build cost for each wheel plus €100 for new rims.
From previous threads there is some Lukas guy I think up around the Pale/Blackpool area who has a reputation
Lukas has a well deserved reputation as a wheelbuilder
https://www.facebook.com/APEXCYCLESKILDARE
The new rims aren't the same as the old (new design) and not supplied with the rims so new spokes would be required (as per their emails).
I was also told this morning that the cost of quoted to me was per rim (despite me asking about replacing the two) and this has left me feeling annoyed with the vague way they phrased it to me so I may not proceed now 😡
Then I'd source a different set of rims, and get wheel builder to pick the spokes.
I haven't looked in a while but €50 per rim would be the max I'd be spending. If the ERD is the same you won't need new spokes but let the builder make that call.
Few ideas here
https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/collections/rims
@Seth Brundle I got dt swiss rims from bike discount for 65 each. very high quality rims... and then built onto my hubs by staggs. labour and spokes for 2 wheels was I think.. 160
Time of the year to strip, check & clean my bike. Any recommendations for grease to use when re-lubing bearings/threads?
I've been using grenville auto bearing grease, is there any need to go different?
I've been using general lithium grease for the longest time, but recently I bought an 850g tub of Motorex 2000 grease. The consistency is definitely different, and lots of suggestions online that it's the same as Shimano's premium grease.
Not saying you need to change, but I like the look of the green grease in my syringe 😁
Right folks, time to engage the hive mind. Young fella took a spill of his bike, and then he said the gears were being funny. Looking at the photos below, do we reckon derailleur hanger, or the cage?
I might have answered my own question here.
I don't know what the tolerances are in terms of flatness for a derailleur hanger, but when I put it on the surface plate, there would appear to be an issue...
Cage definitely bent, should be parallel to the wheel roughly.
The hangar could be sharpen that way, would need a hangar gauge to suss it properly
Cheers for that.
I'll likely replace the hanger too, but at least I know I need to order a derailleur
new derailleur? No… just bend it back with your hands!
Fair enough, I just figured that pulling on the derailleur would move the hanger before ever moving the cage.
I could always drill and tap a hole in some steel, or otherwise clamp it to try and straighten it
Edit to add- not thinking at all here. I'll take the cage off the derailleur...
your over thinking it. Hold the derailleur body with one hand, move the jockey wheel cage with your other hand all while still on the bike.
Question regarding tyre replacement - Is it OK to swap pre-installed tyres, size 47x622 with 700x38 (40x622 I think) Wondering would there by any issues by moving to a somewhat narrower tyre? Thank you.
700cx38 would be 38x622mm just fyi.
But no should be fine swapping 47mm for 38, provided your rim width supports it
Where do you guys get your bolts from? I ordered a selection of
M4,5's and 6's off Amazon but the quality is woefull. Are there shops that
sell a mixed bag, different lenghts too?
(my side stand lost a bolt, I can put a nut and bolt on to fix it but the quality is
abysmal)
TIA
