Cannot get carbon seatpost to stop slipping on aluminum frame
Have used carbon gripper paste inside frame, torqued to correct nM
Keeps slipping. Gravel bike
Is it the original seatpost?
Or have you recently replaced?
Is the collar seated correctly?
Is the collar or seatpost cracked, or the bolt threaded at all?
Photos may help.
Original seatpost, no cracks
Collar seated correctly.
I've order a new seatpost clamp, will use paste and see if it works. Might have to over-torque the bolt
I've seen people put a plastic sleeve around the seatpost. Or you could wrap it in a type of teflon tape.
Wahoo v1 Roam battery replacement:
Is there anyone on the island who has experience/success with this?
My unit is only good for about two hours, which is effectively useless. I lack the fine motor skills to try it myself.
(Aside, the deterioration happened quite suddenly, from ~8 hours capacity to 2, over the course of the summer)
It looks doable, but finicky, and frankly a pain in the hole. Have you contacted Wahoo to see if they offer some sort of battery replacement service?
Thanks C.
I bought it used, so no, I didn't contact the manufacturers. I suppose I got my moneys worth out of it. I'll do a factory reset, perhaps there's something burdening the battery unduly, but I haven't been using many add-on sensors.
Nice unit, I would be a fan. The easy map zooming seems to be the best noticeable difference between it and my buddy's Garmin.
I think similar applies to any of this type of thing, Garmin watches and Edge being prime examples. Partly as a result of being sealed for water ingress and - with cynic hat on - for enforced obsolescence, they're a pain to get into with hidden none standard screws, glue on the screen, then the batteries themselves being glued. Get through all that and you need to get it back together again so as to be watertight.
Yep, which is why I'm fully behind the Right to Repair movement 😄
I got battery replaced on a Garmin 520 recently as battery was only lasting 1hr. Screen broke during the fix so new screen and seal too. Works great now.
Parts < €30. Labour was free. So long as I ignore the cost of his 4 year degree in electronic engineering.
The new seatpost clamp and tube of carbon paste seems to have done the trick. Huzzah
Also helps that the new clamp has a bolt with a hex head whereas original one had a torx head
so background is going from 1 x 42T 11-42 (Gravel setup) to 1 x 36T 11-36 for CX.
query is how much to reduce the chain by,so it could handle both 11-42 and 11-36 on the back.
thanks
Has anyone any experience of putting a child seat on a rack? I bought frame mounted yepp maxi for my wife's e-bike last week and it won't fit as doesn't have adequate clearance over the back tyre (I had been warned this might be the case but it's not an issue as I have just installed it on my commuter).
However I now need to try get her a rack and rack mounted seat. However, when I've looked online, most racks look like they have a weight limit of 25kgs. Considering a seat probably weighs over 10kg, I'd imagine I'll be approaching the weight limit soon. Does anyone have any recommendation on a decent rack that can take more than 25kg?
"Considering a seat probably weighs over 10kg"
I have 2 Boboike seats and a Qibbel seats and none are over 5kg I reckon on there own?
(Using the https://www.qibbel.com/en/6-junior at the minute - that's probably only 3kg in weight)
Cannot recommend a RACK - put all of them seats on a HEAVY DUTY Cargo bike rack ; but perhaps check the weight of the seat first without the steel frame mount
I bought a trailer, mainly to transport my ageing dog. The tow hitch (for attaching to bike) is too thick to allow the axle nut fasten. Is it usual to (a) get a longer axle or (b) get a make/female stud or (c) some other solution?
Cheap bike and trailer. Solution to match the already sunk costs!
Would a male/female stud introduce a point of weakness in the axle? Plus for the female end to go over your existing male end would probably make the final axle width too much for the hitch.
I was cleaning the brake pads on one of my bikes tonight. When replacing the front, I inadvertently dropped the tiny spring clip (which attaches to the end of the bolt) and despite a lot searching, I couldn't find it. (They're ridiculously small).
Presumably it's purpose is to prevent the retaining bolt from shifting if it loosens? What are the chances of this happening?
(I replaced it with the back one in the interim as I'd prefer to have no rear brakes rather than no front ones).
It could happen, albeit unlikely. I presume your ones screw in and then have a retaining bolt. The other option is a regular bendable clip. Your LBS will have them, they are basically metal hairclips, just bend the end up once it slides through.
the little ser clip? i suspect that's there primarily as a failsafe on the bolt coming loose and falling onto the brake disk, potentially causing uncontrolled braking. i've never noticed the bolt coming remotely loose though.
Can I please ask some advice..... I was taking my bike off turbo trainer and putting cassette back onto rear wheel and when tightning it looks like it's cross threaded .…. It'll tighten so much and just pop.
I put cassette back onto turbo trainer ( elite direto) and it's tightened no problem.....
Can this be fixed or is it a new hub 😞
Thanks
That does sound like a typical stripped thread, all right. Are you using the same lock ring for the turbo and the rear wheel?
Yes same one....I was praying it would be same on trainer but NO!!!! Grrrr ..... tightened no problem.
Is there anything I can do other than replace hub... my wheels are carbon / rim brake.... mavic cosmic .
what speed cassette are you using?
Did you notice any metal swarf around the freehub threads on the wheel?
Where is the best place to pick up a small amount of screws?
I recently bought this to put in the tablet holder of my indoor bike.
However, I lost the screws for securing the tablet holder to the bike. The screws I need are M4 10mm It seems wasteful to buy a whole pack when all I need is three. So is there a shop somewhere where I can just get the three that I need.
Most local hardware shops you can just go in and pick them out of a drawer and pay individually, for usually way less then you would pay online. Last time I got a few they were maybe 10 or 20c each
What's the largest cassette I can fit on my Shimano 10x 105 wheel with short (standard) derailleur?
I over-cooked it with a 36 tooth set.
(Old heavy guy who likes hills!)
You should be okay going with a 32. I changed to a 32 on an old road bike of mine because I too found hills a little bit too hard.
Depending on the age of your chain it may be worth changing that at the same time as you change the cassette.
Assuming you now have the large cassette then why not consider a long cage rear mech and new chain?
Yeah, I fitted a new chain and a 36 tooth cassette, way too big. So the chain is ~200 km old. I'll look around for the longer derailleur bracket too.
Free travel me asre!
Have you adjusted the B screw at the back of the derailleur to maximise the clearance between the top jockey wheel and the cassette?
If that doesn't work, look for a cheap 9 speed mountain bike rear mech.( A 10 speed MTB mech isn't compatible). Assuming you have standard Shimano 10 speed road levers, the MTB mech will work with them and give you a bigger cassette and better chain management. I did this with 105 levers and a Shimano XT rear mechanic ( that I got on sale in Halfords for about €30).
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