That’s like comparing a BMW M5 to a 520d 😂
M3P is still a very efficient car all things considered.
I’d do a reset of the car if possible. Your EAP sounds drastically poor compared to the EAP in my 2020 M3P. I loved it!
Ah I'm not surprised it's a lot less efficient than a rwd but I'm surprised it's a fair bit less efficient than an LR. The bigger wheels must make a bigger difference than I thought. It doesn't matter in the real world for me as its not very often I do journeys beyond it's range or only require a short splash and dash.
Have to say its worth it when driving on national roads, especially when having to overtake slower traffic. Acceleration from 40/50/60kph is fantastic.
I'll try a hard reboot as I'm getting sick of all the warnings about cameras and sensors. Hopefully it will also resolve the EAP issues. I've been holding off as concerned about causing more harm than good but having looked online it seems to be the go to solution for a myriad of software related issues with no negative side effects
That only happens if on AutoSteer not adaptive cruise control, also within the menu for Autopilot there is a selection for when engaging cruise control to match current speed limit, you must have than enabled if the car accelerates from 98 to 100.
With stalks I would not have this selected as I like cruise control as being current speed, then you could hold down the stalk and keep it held down and the car would match the current speed limit which I believe is very close to what you were getting at. I can't figure a way to get this with the Highland which is a pain.
If you touch the speed limit sign on the screen it speeds up to the limit or have I misunderstood?
I actually would have thought that a M3 and a M3P would get similar ish efficiency figures if they were both driven in the same efficient manner
On a side note do you remember the Top Gear test where a BMW M3 got better fuel efficiency than a Prius driving around the track😂
I think the wheels make a big difference alright.
The motors are just not as efficient on the P models. And then add the bigger, wider wheels. It can’t compete.
My long term average is around 20kwh/100km. That drops when I’m trying or increases when I don’t care. But for examples, I done a Dublin to Kilkenny trip recently in a MYLR with 20” wheels at the speed limit plus vat and it’s average for that trip was 130’ish compared to 190’ish for the same trip in the M3P.
There are a few Model 3 SR+ out there (including my own) that have a performance motor in them, and just software locked to provide enough power to give the (older) SR+ acceleration time (5.6). They'd be early 2020 Fremont cars.
It's nice knowing that if I floor it, the motor is probably barely breaking a sweat, and thus has never really been pushed too hard!
+1
I’m surprised Tesla haven’t offered a performance boost for those cars.
Tried that there now, didn't work
That's annoying, I see it just disables speed limit chimes on the refreshed M3.
There is an autopilot setting to target current speed or speed limit. You can then use the right roller in the steering wheel to adjust further
We are thinking of buying our first EV, a standard Range Tesla 3 and I hear the zappi is very recommended. I probably need the untethered as it's a public space in front of the house. We want to charge a few times a week during reduced night time tarrifs. I also hear that preconditioning the Tesla battery is important . Does the zappi work well for this model with preconditioning or should I be buying a different set up? Thanks
The battery doesn't need to be preconditioned for home AC charging. It's done (by the car automatically) before charging at high power, public DC chargers. The Zappi is worth the money if you also have home solar. But if you don't have it and don't intend to get it, then a cheaper, grant qualifying charger would also be ok. Most people when charging use th car to schedule the charge.
Zappis are expensive but the app is reliable and it works redirecting solar excess.
However, there are much cheaper options and you can schedule from the car if needed.
I am not sure if a public space affects your choice of untethered vs tethered. The tethered ones can't be removed and the cable stores away fairly neatly
The bigger problem is if you have to run the cable across a public path.
Got rear ended today in Dun Laoghaire.
I was stopped as some one was parked on a footpath and there was a bus coming in the opposite direction.
Car rammed straight into me.
Dash cam was set to auto but i don’t see anything on the dash board for it. Am I looking for it in the wrong place?
Worried that the other parties insurance company has appointed an investigator who wants to meet me onsite.
I always assumed if you got rear ended the liability was always with the person rear ending.
I have a recording of other party admitting liability.
Model 3 service item: "Clean and lubricate brake calipers every year or 12,500 miles (20,000 km) if in an area where roads are salted during winter." Has anybody got this done with a local mechanic, or any reason better for Tesla themselves to do it?
I've never done it, and am on 95,000km now…. even 20,000km seems a bit much!!
I do a hard brake once every 500km or so to keep the calipers 'clean'.
Turn off regen breaking for a couple of days per month if your concerned. That will clean the brakes
Just so that people don't go searching for options they won't find - You can't turn off regen on Model 3 highlands.
Oh, can you not reduce it tho like on the non highland model 3?
Only way to reduce it would probably be to charge to 100%, as at that SoC% regen should be minimal to non existent…
you can also ride the brake pedal and accellerator at the same time… despite the warnings it'll throw up.
Surely the most rewarding way is to give it a bit of beans and do some sporty braking. After a nice jaunt recently my M3P brakes were cooking and steaming nicely.
or just not worry about it, Norway had a long harsh winter with gritted roads, we don't, there's no issue here
Have you had to replace any brake / suspension parts?
This is what I do. Twice a day I bomb up a slip road and give it a bit of reasonably hard breaking.
upper control arms were replaced at 45k, and they sound like they are going again, although I did but a set of syringes to inject some grease into the rubber boots, but haven't gotten around to it yet (currently on 95k)
still on the original brake pads, which probably still have about 80% left on them
Not bad at all.
Was that a warranty job?
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