cheers - the sheldon brown link mentions a 4.5mm spacer - i managed to find two spacers from an old 105 cassette in the box, which combine to 4.35mm so here's hoping…
Would this work?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing%3A2064758
Cheers all - dumb question, but I assume the spacer, if I source one, is best placed on the outside of the cassette rather than the inside?
edit: i note sheldon brown's wording is to add the spacer first.
If you have access to a 3D printer you could make one the reactant size with a good internal structure
If you can't get a suitable spacer, sende a message, I'll turn one down for you on the lathe
Try a plastic spacer from a cassette if you have one spare, they sometimes work, if you need more, you could file a second one down to add to it.
@jethrothe2nd
yes there’s a good reason for it, especially if your fork has a carbon steerer. your stem should always be clamped to the section of the steerer that is supported, from the inside, by the bung inside the steerer tube. Having excessive spacers above the stem means it’s possible that this is not the case, thus causing a crushing effect on the steerer tube.
To counteract it, a long bung can be inserted into the steerer. Otherwise it should be cut to the correct length…
aha, from sheldon brown. so i need to use/source a spacer. worth noting that the rear hub on the bike is obviously not the original, so was obviously replaced with an 8 speed one.
Add a 4.5 mm spacer before installing a 7-speed cassette on an 8-, 9-, or 10-speed hub
so i picked up a new cassette and chain for the old Ti MTB i bought on here late last year; it's late 90s Deore XT so i got seven speed. except the cassette that came off is 8 speed, so the 7 speed cassette is too short, it slides side to side on the freehub even with the lockring tightened on. what are my options? bite the bullet and get an 8 speed cassette, or are 7 speed hubs readily available? are there any other compatibility issues?
i got my lbs to do it. not a job i was willing to take on myself in case things went wrong.
Definitely have a bend in my knees at the bottom of the down stroke. I wonder if the Felt saddle is tilted up a bit so moght try and adjust that.
Brompton seat time varies and haven't paid much attention but its way more comfy than the Felt. Here is another odd one for you. Took a bit of a scenic route home yesterday on the Brompton and two hours later took teh Felt to play a game of tennis. Its not far, maybe 1/1.5kms and up a small incline. Within about 500m I could feel both claves starting to slightly cramp on the Felt so there is definitley some major difference between both setups. It has happened before but usually I feel teh calf on the court but this time it was on the bike. Weird or maybe just old age degradation???
Starting out, are you sure your saddle is not too high? Your bum is for sitting on, not your arms, they are for a steering and you should not be putting much weight at all on them. Could you consider a handlebar extender, I don't like them but it would be a cheap way to raise your bars, you cold then lower your seat a bit, or move it forward it there is space too. Maybe call into an LBS to see do they have any. A good rule of thumb is your legs should never be fully outstretched in a pedal stroke, should be an angle of roughly 30 degrees in your knee at the bottom of the stroke
Do you have drop bars? Important to move hands around to stop numbness developing. You can also get clip on grips as well if you want to keep it cheap.
In regards your Brompton, are you on it long enough to develop numbness? I like Fizik Aliante saddle but I know others it destroys so it is a very personal thing, certainly can't do any harm in trying it out.
Thanks @CramCycle I know its not an ideal tourer but I don't know if touring is for me. I'd just like to get this set up and try a weekend of two or three 60-100km days as a trial. I am hoping that some minor twaeking here and there will get it good enough without going crazy as it rides well and with the new cables its feels nice and slick just not comfy longterm.
My Brompton has a Fizik Aliante R7 saddle and very little padding on it and I find that comfy with no padded shorts. It might be worth swapping them over and testing or adjusting the tilt on the felt one and see. They are both about 140mm wide but Felt one is softer.
I just did a quick check there and the handlebars seem about 50mm lower than the saddle. Its a Felt QX65 58cm frame, I'm 6'4" and 34" leg. I also pulled teh cap and steering tube is 28mm and current stem is already a bit over the top so no room for any additional spacers. I did find that on a longish spin over teh weekend that I was getting some wrist fatigue, like I was bearing too much weight on them hence the idea of swapping the stem.
Is there actually any reason to cutting the steerer tube to size other than aesthetics? I've recently lowered my stem and have the spacers sitting on top. Having done a few spins since, I want to leave it that way, but I hate the look with the spacers on top. I'm not confident enough to do it myself and I'm trying to decide if it is worth getting the lbs to do it, or just suck it up and leave it as is.
Last point is that it is a commuter/hybrid based on a quick google, it is not designed for long touring, but that doesn't mean it can't achieve it.
Saddle will only be more comfy if it fits your sit bones right. Do you wear padded bibs already, definetly do if you don't? Measure your sit bones might give you an indication if the Brooks is for you but there are different widths.
Shortening the stem will make steering more twitchy, not ideal for long days in the saddle IMO. Certainly wouldn't go for that steep an angle or short a stem. Can you add any spacers underneath the stem, and maybe only bring it back to 90cm.
How high is your saddle now, the wrong height can also lead to numbness.
The last option to consider is if the bike is the right size or suitable to the job, the cost a new Brooks is almost the same price as you would buy a Felt QX65 second hand, might be worth sticking up frame size/leg length and overall heidth to see does it fall in range
I've a Felt QX65 that I want to make more comfortable for touring. Planning on changing the saddle to a Brooks C17 as the current Felt one has some padding so get a bit of numbness after a while. I also want to change the stem to pull handlebars back and get a bit more upright. Current one says 110mm 7 degrees. Handlebar diameter is 25mm
Is there any way to be sure of the head steer size or will I have to just take off the current one and measure? This one has H1009B E:110 7 degrees on it and its OD on where it clamps to the steering tube is 35.5mm.
I was hoping to pick up something like 60mm 25 degrees from amazon as a cheap test to see if it worked and if it did get a better quality one.
So, I've ordered a torque wrench!
Ok that makes sense thanks folks. Amazing that isn't spelled out anywhere you look. One of those things where it's assumed if you have ever sat on a bike you'll just know by osmosis.
You'll only need from roughly the dropout up, so about half the wheel size.
700mm wheel is approximately 27.5" in diameter.
I've been looking for a rear pannier rack for my ADV 8.9 but what confuses me is how to know what size rack I need. The wheels are 700x38 but looking at racks on bike24 as an example I can only see sizes going as high as 29". Am I reading this all wrong? Seems to be very little info. out there on how to chose the right size rack. Any help appreciated.
I made a bearing press, and I can turn any size drift I need in work.
The issue with the removal seems to be only a small lip of the inner race is showing. So the drift to remove it combines a wedge to keep pressure on the race to push the bearing out.
Anyway, thanks for all the responses, Nilhg, and I think I've dragged the thread off topic enough.
I'll update with whichever route I take.
You don't have to be too gentle taking our the dying bearing, you need to be more careful with the installation of the new one. I just happen to have some tools that might be of help, feel free to message me if you decide to go that way.
Yep, that's the one, found it too, but it turns out you need a proprietary tool to remove the bearing, because reasons.
Think I'll just buy a new bb...
Definitely not hollowtech compatible so, it's 24mm spindle yours seems to be 30mm.
Your problem will be that you'll have to remove a bearing to measure it, then source one and fit it, much handier to just buy one complete but that conveniennce does lead to waste, it's true.
found this, seems to be what you want?
https://praxiscycles.com/?product=m30-bearing-kit
This is the bottom bracket, I think. The bearings are definitely replaceable. It's not so much the cost as the waste that bugs me.
If it's a standard english threaded 68mm BB then there's no point trying the change the individual bearings, just get the complete package and swap the whole thing, they're not particularly expensive. I doubt you'd get a thirdparty bearing to fit in the cups the same as the factory fitted one.
Thanks for the reply, Nilhg.
I think this BB is BSA, threaded.
I think what's actually happened is that the placement of the multitool allowed water to wick into the cup holding the bearing itself, rather than just sitting along the axle.
Could be wrong about that, though, it was just my first thought on pulling the crank.
Anyway, if it is BSA BB, am I looking at an M30 bearing, or are there other options
That's a Praxis crank? Presumably a hollowtech compatible one? I'm fairly certain that your Giant will have a BB86/92 pressfit BB, if you're stuck I have a spare here.
Water inside the axle shouldn't cause the bearing outside the axle to go though?
