It is made by BYD aka Build Your Dreams. Hope it comes here and that they change the name before it does,
This could really challenge the Tesla Model 3.
It looks great inside and out
In the id3 you have D for normal Drive and this has 0 regen when you lit off the throttle, however, there are some gimmicky and very annoying modes you have buried in menus to deactivate first that I can't remember off the top of my head or what happens is the car starts to regen coming up to junctions and roundabouts. Then you have B mode for one pedal driving.
Going downhill in D it will enable a bit of regen like a lot of automatics have hill sensing abilities and downshift to enable engine braking, yes, you'd be very surprised how many people don't downshift a gear or 2 in a manual and just ride the brakes all the time going down long hills but to stop this slight regen when going downhill in the id3 you can simply blip the throttle and it coasts again. However, newer id3s could have this implemented differently.
If going down a long steep hills, for example, I'm up the Wicklow Hills coming down Turlough Hill either heading towards Laragh or Hollywood direction I often just leave it in B and then use the one pedal braking to variably adjust the regen because this is actually when I want regen braking and lots of it and the id3 regen is very strong. I remember doing all this in the MK II 2007 Prius and the battery would fill up in no time, you're hear the battery fan come on and then it would fill up and then it would have to use the friction brakes.
In order to change between modes in the ID3 you simply twist the gear leaver forward and backwards to get from D to B and back.
Hyundai and Kia do this a lot better or did, I don't know if they still do ? you had flappy paddles each side of the steering, one was for going up the different levels and one for going back down so you could get 0 regen then level 1,2,3 etc, this is a far better system and gives people choice, the BMW i3 would drive me mad at times because I couldn't change it.
I'd say it's overall build quality, cabin noise, rattles and squeaks that would set them apart.
The E class would be a close second, not much in it.
Thanks for that the VW system sounds fairly good (and better than Tesla's) but paddles would appear to be a lot better. The Megane EV has paddles too according to this, pity its drag coefficient is so bad. Anyhow going off the BYD topic now so will leave it.
https://gb.e-guide.renault.com/eng/Megane-E/REGENERATIVE-BRAKING-SYSTEM
Put mine over the exact opposite side. If you're ordering that camera that's the cable you're plugging in to it.
The M3H is a significantly different car to the older models, both in terms of build quality and finishes. But it is still a mass produced family 4 door car, the same as any Toyota, BYD, Kia, MG and dare I say it, modern BMW's (which have gone downhill lately)
Mercedes is one of the few with plush interiors in their electric range IMO and I say that after driving 190km in a 241 E300De over the weekend. Gorgeous car, lovely interior, 400bhp, nice features but it was €88,000. It was fab, but it wasn't twice as good as a M3h or BYD Seal fab if you get me.
The only advice is to go drive the cars in question. Very little between them with regards to materials and rattles etc
Agreed, what's the plushness factor worth in euros. Only thing I can point to is any second hand BMW or mercedes is very easy to shift once someone's takes a test drive
Looking forward to hearing about the items you purchased whenever you receive them :)
I ordered a few accessories from here and was happy with what I got.
https://www.topbyd.com/collections/byd-seal-accessories
Just be aware its worth checking other supplies on Aliexpress, the under console tray is €26 on that site I got both the under one upper trays for €27 in total. I have bought a huge amount of stuff for the Seal and the prices can really vary. also check their shipping prices.
+1
Also check if some stores have multiple buys for free shipping etc
What was the fix for the sticking door handles? Starting on mine.
Plenty of WD-40 or equivalent. If it is stuck in the closed position try pressing in the front part of handle while you unlock with key.( Think doing it that way allows door handle to open, seems like rear end of handle might be slow to open and gets stuck when front section opens too quick for it) once open lashings of wd-40
Use a Silicone Spray, don't use WD40 its a cleaner not a lubricant although gives some temporary lubrication. Buya can of silicone spray it's specifically designed for this type of application where plastics are in play.
Mine never had the issue but I decided preventatively to apply silicone spray in there last week.
Cheers lads. I'd rarely use WD40 anywhere to be honest. There's nearly always a better solution.
I have plenty of GT7 by Tec7 and GT85. They're probably worse in fairness. But it'll go rooting for something silicone based.
Most motor factors will have silicone spray. Lidl even have it from time to time.
Thanks all.
Cheers @grumpygit
That description fits with what I'm thinking.
Thanks @listermint
I've found the silicone based stuff already @prawnsambo
I see some Australian producers starting the toe bar manufacture. Removable ideal for bikes. Which is what I'd be looking for. Hopefully some European places catch on.
https://www.evts.com.au/products/byd-seal-towbar-wiring
For those of you having trouble with the sticking door handles do you actually open the rear doors much? Mine would be getting opened every day with the kids and haven't noticed any issues so far
I bought the sunglasses case for roof/head unit and a silicon insert for the lower center console from aliexpress. About €30 for the 2 of them, a lot cheaper topbyd which is just a drop shipping site. Fitted them over the weekend and they seem pretty good so far
Was rear door with mine which wasn't opened very often. Was just about permanently stuck on closed position. Fixed in garage about a month ago with silicone spray and no issues with it since. Guy told me WD-40 would do the trick either, I was afraid it might damage the paintwork but he said it would be grand however I think I would go with listermints advice on silicone ( think there might actually be different versions of WD-40,could be wrong though)
Mine are opened 10 times a day every day. Kids in and out.
I wouldn't worry about the paint work and WD40. In fact it's the best way to get road tar off a car.
The old school guys still use a bit of petrol to remove tar 😂
Yeah, but that's the smelly way. 😁
If you want a nice smell, buy some label remover spray. You can get that in motor factors - or at least I have done so. Smells like oranges. ☺️
I use Reflect Autocare Tar Remover tbh
I dont use enough of it to get into the different brands. Once or twice a year per car. Especially the whites ones.
Can you point where this is stated please. I was of this opinion too. Recent posts in the owners FB Group seem to contradict this and seemly the dealer has contacted BYD directly who had seemly stated it’s a €380 option on the RWD.
The brochure doesn’t differentiate between the models like it does for the HUD for example, so that’s why I had assumed it was standard on both.
.50 cal tar and glue remover for me. My Chemical Guys stuff just wasn't cutting the mustard. Odd it says 3kW for V2L there. Mine has 2kW stamped on the device.
I use Tardis. Have a 5 litre of the stuff got back in bmw driver days
Driving Assistance Design Excellence AWD
Convenience & Efficiency Design Excellence AWD
Vehicle-to-Load (V�L) function ●● Driving modes: Eco, Normal, Sport, Snow ● ● Front Boot ● ● � x Smart Key & � x NFC Key ● ● Keyless entry & keyless start ● ● Heat pump ● ● ��kW On-Board Charger (OBC) ● ●
That copy and paste didn't work to well so here is a photo of the brochure description
![Photo of [Deleted User]](https://www.boards.ie/applications/dashboard/design/images/banned.png)
