Starting a new thread as this was getting lost in the Hints, Tips & Troubleshooting thread.
Post details of your integration with Home Assistant etc.
Are these restricted to just Apple Homekit ?
Possibly hackable, but if are a HA user, you're better off getting a Sonoff (P is better than E) or a conbee USB dongle.
Ended up with one of these
It's the WiFi gateway but also has a temp sensor attached. Easily integrated into home assistant
Did you use three of them?
No I already have the two from the eddi monitoring top and bottom
Hi all - I have no delay or schedule on my washing machine - wondering if Switchbot or the AliExpress ones would work to double click the start button at 3 in the morning? I can’t get around it so just seeing if anyone uses these?
Check if it holds the setting when powered off. As in turn a washing cycle on, then turn it off at the socket or turn off the trip switch if the actual socket is hard to get to.
Wait a minute say. Then power it back on. If it continues when it stopped, you can get a smart plug and it will work.
Then you turn it on as normal, then turn if off on the smart plug immediately (via the smart phone app) and set it to come on each night on a schedule. I do that
To be honest, but depending on the temperature, I don't see the washing machine as massively hungry, whereas the dishwasher is 2kW constant for an hour
What cycle is your dishwasher on? Ours is on economy (not eco), and there's two 2kW spikes and other than just lower motor power. The the entire run costs about 1kWh...
Same for w/m, high draw on heating, otherwise just the cost of running a motor. Ideally, as suggested by DC999 you could throw it on a smart switch if it remembers, but the switch bot is a good idea.
I agree I can never see the washing machine on my logging. Maybe a tiny spike when the spin ramps up.
Can for sure see the dishwasher and tumble dryer
No such luck have tried that- I’d have to press the button twice - once to wake it up and twice to start - was just wondering if a switch bot would be up to the task and any recommendations - washing machine doesn’t make a big dent but have everything else moved to the 2-5 slot and it just bugs me.
If you're willing to do some messing around.....I modified a sonoff to make it a 0v contact and paralleled it with the start button on my dryer.
Then use google home to start it during the night . plenty of room to hide the sonoff inside the machine.
great focus to come to that solution - I’ll try a cheap Ali button press bot and see how it does
Just a note on smart plugs. Especially re condenser driers. Saw someone post on the givenergy forums that they were running their driver via the plug and it melted.
It is for this reason that I sourced a zigbee CT clamp energy meter for my utility room. Enclosed it in a junction box, with a CT for washer and a CT for dryer.
yeah i think most smart plugs are rated 13/16 amps but some are only for a few minutes at that load.. running a condenser drier you could be drawing over 2.5 kw for 2 hours.. that's a great shout re the ct clamp - might look at something similar for our kitchen. I'm curious what the washing machine and dishwasher use - i run both in the middle of the night on the cheapest tarrif available but my wife is always complaining about the clothes especially that they are #ruined sitting in the washing machine to long..
Ours spikes only 2kW twice like Trees. Turn off the drying cycle if you can. It sucks a lot of juice for that. Our new model let's you do thay and it auto opens the door to let it air dry.
The newer eco cycles run lower on juice but are slower. A lot of time spent swishing water so just pump being used.
can you put a ct on the power lead to a dishwasher/washing machine?
Yes but you need to sort of strip it, the CT has to go on the brown/live wire only not the whole cable.
You could of course open up the machine and put it on the live wire there, they are probably split there anyway
For HA users, at this point in time I'd recommend the ZigStar UZG-01 above anything else.
Last Sonoff P I got was dead on arrival. Conbee doesn't support certain features (like adding a device with a pairing code - like a Bosch Thermostat).
The Zigstar supports USB, Ethernet or even WIFI. Costs a bit more but it is much more versatile.
I got one these, SLZB-06, very simple setup especially if you have PoE on a switch. I'm running Home assitant on a NAS so have no USB access. https://smartlight.me/smart-home-devices/zigbee-devices/slzb-06m-zigbee-adapter
As SD says, you need to put the CT around the live wire. The extension cables are stripped inside the junction box to allow this.
"As SD says, you need to put the CT around the live wire. The extension cables are stripped inside the junction box to allow this."
To clarify...just in case the last post is misread. This refers to stripping ONLY the outer insulation of the cable. The live, neutral & earth wires should retain their individual insulation, even inside the junction box. Most people will know this, but some may not.
Ct's can also go on the neutral cable, you just change the orientation of the clamp.
On single-phase. Not on three-phase because of the phase-angle of the currents. 👍️
Anyone here using a Shelly Plus 1 to switch a 12v circuit on/off?
Wondering if I'm reading the diagram right:
Input + to 12V
Input - to L
Output + to 0
Output - to SW
Or is it:
Output - to L
Currently, I am running HA via a virtual machine on an old Windows laptop. I have bought a NUC and want to run HA as an X86-64 installation.
I'd like to keep all the PV data the laptop has collected over the past year of operation. What do I need to do on the laptop to move integrations and data to the NUC without losing anything?
Will anything change for me when running X86-64 that I am currently unaware of by running a VM?
Thanks.
Yeah, they aren't the clearest.
So are you switching 12v DC but powering the Shelly from 230v mains, or powering the Shelly from 12v?
Power-in, either 12v or 230v, is on the right. The switching is on the left, and it's volt-free, so it's a standard relay (fully isolated from the AC voltage).
Does that answer it?
If you're using the internal database then just run a backup from home assistant and restore it. Takes seconds.
If you have an external database such as mariaDB or such, then the process is entirely different.
Not really 😂
12v in 12v out, powering the shelly from 12v
So input red/black goes where and output red/black goes where (this is the one I want to toggle via automation)?
I assume I can just take red wire of the output and connect it to 0 which will let me toggle it on/off?
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