Yeah I was more so thinking about March/April driving when you don’t really need it on. At least I don’t anyway.
Is 18 more efficient than say 22 or is 18 just your preference?
Yes that’s possible alright but I’d always tend to have it on to keep the windows clear etc.
AC would have a bigger drain I’d imagine.
When I drive locally in winter I always have the temp set to 22, and fan 1 with AC off..... which always seems to be comfortable.. maybe increasing to 23 if it's really cold and upping the fan... but on longer drives I find 22 seems to eventually feel too warm so set it down to about 19-20...
Going on a long drive tomorrow so a rare charge to 100% but will pre-condition for as long as I can before we leave to get the cabin and battery nice and warm, so we can leave with the temperature set at maybe 20 instead of 22..
I don't ever use the AC unless I'm trying to cool the cabin.
18 is just what I like, herself would probably have it at 30!
For at least 6 months of the year in Ireland, 18C will be more efficient than 22C since outside ambient temperature will be lower than 18C. The greater the temperature differential between inside and outside, the more energy that will be needed to bridge that gap and it's not a linear increase, it would be somewhat exponential. Eg. if outside temp is 12C and inside temp is 17C then it will take X units of energy to bridge and maintain that 5C differential. If inside temp is set to 22C, it will take more than 2X units of energy to bridge and maintain that gap.
Complicating all that slightly is solar gain in the cabin if it's sunny, offset partially by infrared blocking tints on windows, double glazed windows helping to maintain cabin temp, the presence of any large mass in the cabin with a high specific heat capacity that can retain heat (energy) during the journey (eg. 250 litres of water). Finally, the cabin temperature will be affected by how many 100W biological heaters (humans) you have in the car :)
I suspect that a big disparity between dual zone temps in the car will chew through a not insignificant amount of battery. Or if it doesn't, it should, if it's truly trying to meet the user requirements. Like putting a humidifier and dehumidifier in the same room and let them fight to the death.
Drove the car to 1% yesterday and finished with 335 km total, a fair come down to spring/summer months. The heating definitely takes a toll.
Has anyone here decided not to go for the Highland after test-driving stalkless car or are you guys buying it without the test-drive?
Stalks can be added as an after market, I'd try it out for a while on roundabouts before ordering The Stalks are coming back! We will bring them to the #Tesla Model 3 #highland , Model S and Model S (youtube.com)
Heater is very efficient on Tesla. Of course summer better efficiency due to thinner air, less drag and usually dry roads/less wind.
I have no problem getting 130/140Wh/km in winter, 120 or less in summer. But I do very little motorway driving. I don’t like a car too hot usually set temp at 18.5c. Only use ac if a lot of humidity. I used similar temperature when had ice.
I’ve had a BMW for many years, countless number of them actually. The lack of stalks won’t bother me 👀
LOL. I must be one of the few BMW drivers who care. 😛
There is always one..........
Lol, only kidding, dont touch that indicator stalk.
Some RWD V LR Review
Spolier. Based on the efficiency, 460km range from the RWD. Considering its battery of 60 kWh gross, that’s fantastic compared to the opposition who generally have 82 kWh (Seal), 82 kWh (ID4), 77 kWh (Ioniq 5)….Im sure I’m missing a few here….
Not running AC for months is a sure fire way to cause expensive ac repair problems . They need to be run every so often you have to circulate them and free up the pump.
+1
They dry out too.
AC needs to be re-gas’ed every three years. People never care to service it and wondering after few years why it’s not cooling the car anymore.
Very similar to what my 2022 Model 3 RWD indicates for normal mixed driving. Not sure about the range of 460km though.
Agree. I have mine on auto. Just select the temp and the car sorts it all out.
Really? I would have thought there's no need as long as there's no leak.
Compressor loses about 10% of gas per year, naturally. In a fully sealed and vacuum tested system. So in 5 years there will be half of the required amount in the system . Also there is lubricant added so it’s good to re gas the system. I went to AC service with my 6 year old car which had full dealer service history and it only had 52% in the system ! Just shows how even a main dealer don’t care. Re-gas’ed it and it was freezing cold even at 20 degree. Your fingers should be freezing if you put them into a vent on a lowest AC settings. But the service use a temp gauge of course to check it’s working at full power.
Also good to do ozone treatment every so often. Eliminates bad smells before they develop into a nasty mould.
From scanmytesla, 30% of the energy I used in my Model S was due to regenerative braking, the Tesla can suck a huge amount through regen
< going off on a tangent here >
One of the cars that I look after is an old, old derv Octavia. It has climate control. CC usually off. On at most 10 days in the year. Never recharged CC. Always works when its turned on. ( Think its an '02 model ).
Is 'the new' refrigerant a smaller molecule size than was used in '02 era cars ? if not then what has changed that newer system seem to be so inclined to let their refrigerant leak ?
R1234yf gas has been around for a while and all cars newer than 2017 have it. Main benefit was safer for the earth and uses less power from engine to run the compressor with this gas.
If your car still blows some cool air it does not mean it has not lost any amount of gas and also does not mean all parts inside compressor are in good condition.
If the amount of gas drops compressor gas to work harder too.
Drop to any garage servicing AC and they will explain you all this.
Luckily there are plenty now unlike many years ago when you were looked at like an idiot if you asked to service AC.
You'll have a very hard time convincing the "experts" on here. The place is getting as bad as facebook. "But it still works" is a very common response. 🫣
I watched Scotty Kilmer many times on YouTube and he even says it many times in different videos. Regarding the ac leaks out a small bit to lubricate the seals if it was a completely sealed system the seals would burn out in no time from friction and then your AC system would need expensive repairs rather than just top up the coolant.
Hi all, I posted this comment in the Model 3/Y Waiting Room Delivery separate thread in Boards. Re-posting it here for those of you debating buying a Model 3, hope it helps... specifically those weighing up whether to buy the M3 RWD v M3 Dual Motor. After much debate I went with the former for 6 main reasons (1) Including the financing cost, the Dual Motor was €13,500 more over the 5 year term; (2) Yes I would have loved the 490 BHP but in fairness I don't think any mortal will climb out of the RWD and think "I wish it had a bit of poke" since it is still nuts fast by conventional comparison; (3) I don't need all wheel drive & I suspect 90% plus M3 owners in the same boat; (4) Dropping from 17 to 9 speakers - I look on it as going from my current set-up to a really good 9 speaker set-up which lots of reviewers online are very impressed with; (5) The quoted extra 100km of range for Dual Motor v RWD would have been very nice, but this brings me to my final consideration... (6) For those of you who don't know, the RWD uses LFP battery chemistry v. traditional NMC chemistry on the Dual Motor - LFP offers 3 distinct benefits (Can charge to 100% regularly, far more sustainably sourced than rare earth minerals on the NMC, and will degrade less over time). So if you charge the Dual Motor to 90% as recommended by Tesla, versus 100% on the RWD, the real range difference drops to under 50km (of course you can charge the NMC to 100% when needed). I hope these thoughts are useful to those of you on the fence. And to those who have gone Dual Motor, well done you lot and you're gonna love the extra poke and speakers 😁
Good post @Zoom Zoom
Thinking of similar but with a 2020 LR v a 2021 sr LFP…
Heat pump & revised headlights on the 2021 make no odds to me but the awd would be nice paired with the high power output of the LR dual motor.
Thanks handpref. Second hand I'd definitely stretch to the Dual Motor. I heard from a reputable dealer in the trade that the pricing of second hand Dual Motor Model 3's will correct itself by the end of Q2 2024 - so I'd say there will be some cracking value to be had by the summer. €41,832 for a brand new RWD with all the considerable improvements meant for me a second hand Dual Motor needs to be €30k - €32k... and according to the above this will happen by mid-summer here. Let's see if he is Nostradamus or Talkingouthisarseamus 😂
I don't think any mortal will climb out of the RWD and think "I wish it had a bit of poke"
I didn't until I test drove a Model 3 Performance..... ruined my car forever that day.
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