Could you have a straight line, with the different points along it ?
I’m tight on shed space this year and have to “out winter” a few bits of machinery….what are my options to minimise the hard it does them.
the bits I’m most concerned about are my disc mower and my hay turner.
will be stored on a stone area so was thinking of putting them on pallets to keep out of the damp and then cover with a tarp, or something, I’m assuming a silage cover would sweat and make more rust !
Spray a light coat of oil on them. A mix of hydraulic and diesel.
+1 on this, ive a 25 year old fertiliser spreader treated this way...honestly looks like only a few years old
Any effort at all will help, sure machines in every dealers yard outside all year round
Thanks lads, that’s reassuring. What ratio of hydraulic oil to diesel (roughly)
We use roughly 50 /50 on indoor stored stuff but for outdoor stuff burnt oil is better.we live by the sea so things rust mad if not treated
i knew I was hoarding all this burnt oil for something 😂
I've 10 5 gallon drums of it if anyone wants it!
What kind of sprayer or dispenser do you use?
I tried a water sprayer before for oil but the oil was too thick for it to work.
Bit like the man tried it maybe 😂
50/50 put it on when it's dry
Use a handheld 5 litre sprayer...the one you manually pump...keep it just for that job alone
I use a little oil sprayer for the compressor similar to the picture below. Another option is a worn out spray gun for paint
+1 for dry a d a other trick is to graze every nipple on the machine
The thing is the older paint is better than the new stuff. .
A neighbour has a 30 year old amazon and a 5 year old amazon spreader.
Both treated the same way.
The old one is nearly in better nick.
He had a 97 kuhn mower and a 2012 kuhn mower. The paint on the old mower is better. Less rusty n flaky
Anything that is "powder coated" is going to rust within the year, totally rubbish finish.
Thanks again to @Wildsurfer and @mayota for recommending the Dewalt impact driver. It has really come into use over the past few days tightening down sheets.
Glad to be of service! I was doing the same myself, this wind doesn't be long highlighting the loose ones.
Had issues with draughts coming in on top calves last spring. I'm hoping this will do the trick along with the sliding door. On warm spring days I'll leave the timbers hang down and open the sliding door a bit. On windy days the timbers will be chained fully upright.
Any ideas on how to solve a problem that I have when changing to a new Calor gas cylinder for the cooker. I've no problem taking the regulator off the empty cylinder but for the life of me I cannot lift up whilst pressing down on the round part of the regulator to lock it in place ifkwim. My thumbs must be weak but I doubt it considering all the manual work that I do. Is there a "how to change a gas cylinder for dummies" tool available.
Wear those green work gloves to get a good grip.
Is the gas fitting worn out?
Worth looking at a different regulator, you may find one with a different shaped or larger plastic collar easier to push/pull on as needed.
If it's like ours you use your thumbs to press down from the top and the two index fingers to pull up the black ring on the bottom. Then when pushed down in place use index fingerers to push down black ring whilst maintaining pressure on the top with your thumbs ....... as you say your hands should be plenty strong. so maybe as others have said the fitting might be goosed......
When we changed the cooker last summer the man fitted a new regulator which was basically the same as the old one except that it has a turn key green/red to allow the gas to flow as opposed to the old one which had a switch on top. It uses the same principle as you described above.
I will try what you describe tomorrow when OH is about to see if I can master it as I have to rely on him being about to change the cylinder.
Very occasionally I find some of those jumbo regulators need to have the on/off gas switch in the off position before you take off or replace the regulator so try fitting it with the valve in both positions.
Made up three more barrels filled with stone and a concrete top for ad lib minerals for the stock. Made one previously and it worked out well as a patent. These are placed inside the sheds with no bolting to walls of troughs.
How do you move them ?
I want to do something like that here
Why not put minerals on the silage, It's very wasteful to give them unlimited access. our ewes here could eat a fortnights minerals in three days
I haven't enough feed space for them all at one time.
Forklift and rotate off the pallet.
Down this country we cut a hole in side of the barrel, leaving the top on you can feed minerals outside.
