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Child Item

Guide to electrical solar panel self-install

SchrodingersCat

Ive mostly lurked on this forum for information on PV solar panels installations. There is some fantastic information here, so I wanted to try and do my bit giving back some information by outlining how we did our own solar PV install. We were building a new block garden shed, and decided to look into installing solar panels on the roof. We had a family friend who was a RECI electrician and could help where needed.

Specification

Solartricity.ie has an online designer, where you can specify the number of panels that you need, and it will output a Bill Of Materials (BOM) for you to purchase. You can then purchase the materials from them, and they will deliver it all on a pallet within a day or two. For our installation, we wanted 6 panels as it was the most that could be installed on the south facing side of the roof of the new shed that was being built. Some highlights of the final BOM was:

6 x 360w panels (2160w in total)
Solis Mini 2Kw 4G inverter
“K2” mounting system for slated roof
Overall cost of kit: 2247e

All parts were included, bar the following:

50m 3 core 4mm2 armored AC cable
This ran from the consumer unit in the house to the inverter in the shed.
Cost: 170e
4” conduit to bury the armoured cable in the garden
Trunking and clips for cables, for running the AC cable up the shed and house wall.
Aluminum paneling to place the trunking/cables behind on the shed wall.

Approx overall cost of materials: ~2500e

Return on investment

I used the Irish Government's SEAI online calculator to find out how much money we would save.

https://www.seai.ie/tools/solar-electricity-calculator/

T3ZRxy4_ayohdH8XCzBWBxpnehgiT_7Q5eA2aFivVzRpGlfxfU0Ngcii4UpZ9rCUwMCa5xP-ebO5QZ_OM3_K6rfiA5iPbbCla_L9E7aviMfH3DgnEJF0tBZyREn0xlj2BUmsNLfiu2Jzwy9UZddlMZI

So it looks like we would break even after roughly 7 years, and save 341e every year after that. Note that this was calculated before Putin decided to invade Europe, so the savings are better now due to the increased cost of energy.

To be honest, doing a self-install does not save as much as you would expect compared to getting a professional to do the install due to the very generous grants available. These grants are only available if the installer is a SEAI registered installer, not just a RECI electrician. However, there is still a saving to be made, and I was looking for a project to do, so this looked like an interesting one to learn from.

Installation of the panels

The roof was to be done using bangor clay tiles, as shown below:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eR1vJ0tauPMx6DIHASpRnc5CuBUW_1ZlWL5UE7q21V6NzWDB771wVm35Nwqsf2yJpDeNZ7zFkmROKHLanzKFh8lWKpO50I5bpqXKC4AHtxMZvtJPeXhBTLTa0crcmvwAzuk4-LraxJfSBEkBofsM8Vc

These are pretty thick in size, so solartricity were emailed who recommended their flashing kit for cable entry and “K2 Roof Fastner for flat tile, 15cm”.

The overall kit with these fasteners was ordered. The roofer finished installing the roof tiles. We left the scaffold up for easy access to the roof. Solartricity provided an installation PDF guide for the overall system.

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This was used to mount the brackets for the mounting rails. Each mount point was marked on a tile and the tile removed using a long flat head screwdriver. The roofer was asked to order a few spare tiles for breakages. Thankfully it was possible to remove all the tiles needed without breaking any.

1OUGioW4jpHaozgKs1FxjiRovHjboTs5buVH_hcKSCl3_VkfEzhWv95n0H18ymDpDhDlTOvGiuCZX5kh6r9i3VmfpVSAKDPBx9r5VVIoAc9VaJBGPSbxKPRhbKLEg5tKEb516V8tLrHQy9yjnAY-_C4

The guide specifies that the hook is screwed into the timber plant, which is in turn screwed into the rafter. I asked our roofer about this. He said that he could see no need why this was suggested, as it should be better to screw the hook directly into the rafter. As the shed was not in a high-wind load area, we went with this approach.

SBQ0oTJqKupcUlbZGu7H7W8MG73dCmvXWtnAdP_-MdUR4WtLDoL_UuyBHjtwnDmkpzHeDaj0AaN6unY7uOpnAUy_kLTCRdPtxqpistYZAz-ZklGiiQTJU0yr5HuQhAM2hwo_zLDVHCWIARngLqxQr8o

Shims were cut to ensure that the hooks cleared the tiles correctly, as shown from the instruction manual below:

kHZsroOkrxmnOH3ZjRCxTJ8q-788mlBW74VBPKXExVvtgmU-jExrqqNWqjfb2CRxsgMXXcIPySWxcqzsHD9YAkEkYuPKi5duL3SQNd36kArFinOH3uG1-CvJZtQTISsVlI3G0BKqy530UMpsI02xVYs

The panels were mounted to the rails using their clamping system, shown below:

gcW_0XseBLB-IDe3c0IZNnyVGKSh9QEcNtX7K-n9NcsSvEFFAAyRtu9WYpd9-OwyLfj1CZY2z0HymP9n2LD-05clH1K-AjTCYS7CBZ4bDkIHPOQlIvpChl5bWp9RYLmp1nM-5CWaqMedbbtxjkoQhPU

The installed panels are shown below.

ootEGJDeMkf5B5utt8-aa4ODkkvRD8p_fi96dhmyzDkUJAJuDSm-TC2bbSrsap0A5_dPpad-vPw8s25XMREDVDLgYtcQ95_Er601Wz9WRPwRHorGeSSpuEHIJzdif19LzfpQAPYoyTiS4LSixaoKJH4

Each panel has a female and a male “MC4” connector on a tail. This allows for them to be easily connected in series.

lSCHjhxFakX3oeMawQCc33erKVmsN2FI_oRzMnKGsP_Yh26KBneB0Bwccr2mdsdlOhOG8DpwHQ1mFMpcC3ZPcqbqMc-9vx05eCHyKSG-k3HW9HlxDbNxdPQNKtoGa_cgx9kaEz9LouVGrCpufy93ZIg

Female connector

4oLWTufC-p3kabBLLJmLPpeho3a5KTAzcY3Z7FjCZhaLZfvICAX0brKZnNTHwiiKv22XpKFqc5EZzAZeb2JqWONGaoOG6iGiDHMmRxLUE0zqVk8fl9XKVcs5ZODFwHXsoN9pBXWwornjSRCZXVHZ6aM

Male connector

A long tail was added to the first and last panel with enough DC cable to bring it through the attic for connecting to the inverter. These two connectors were carefully crimped with a proper crimping tool. I bought a couple of spare MC4 connectors off amazon.

An earth had to be run from each panel. This was trickier to install, as there was no obvious connector on the panels, nor was the method described in the manual. As a result, outdoor earthing clamps were purchased from Screwfix and mounted to the aluminum frame of each panel.

_A1Qi7RrhdNeaVrIMrLnMuj36whz9aCT3uEg1y7Xtc9mbTl6uJZsd_6XL6anI0YBlEXd_vofxUVpNReKR-S3SBg24_SJZqba-cIgukYIU_SSvgqjHQv83Q8wenoy1tp1TImziXdHZT--cxfraweTGSU

0y66HsigTBDOvSGUrqiL8DoUE21ewHSI5DWPMMM_GqlX1LNv-rYkrTaVplQYYqSv8ufvFzEm9fPutF5NfCAFiOj6AjuRCttW_xi4BCmtFKdkdBw2QtU3SOpvMH4sEvOIfexip9e3CEgftwpW-8LciQQ

2xCLSGkJsspgV4VJc81KDZ4ytyGMVQ4t1RJKhTf-vS88K6kgo49SVqndHc-R_78XekhXtaYQ5qaVqn75qhe-kN6leOsqzhEPJVdl5vHU_IEMbBZEeEiVjvV-S8oSm-XGRiCIZiiozUUwBJykXRDGARI

A loop was made to each panel in series.

5V2WciPnyonwTOB6Alpdf8p3Hp_dh9a13smxAyyEHHa9RqK-7qfVlM-insL61TgS1eiUP8wIbH8j6N_i02gdAAO1EZnSnlPPCjP_Z37K3GE3YWInxCSbarMUpWula4nPzcFPnM_hLgvXz3d1GXojG4Y

NzdlbuuDUr5A9BSrvFD7CXP_5CcbFlJLrs6L6iISgGfPeugoTjyfh9IQUMSnKUD1CTlDZVzG-sGmENYW9ch-MsntGoK41B05FWGOqk8bNpsC-dejfcQEYDm-jHn2exM_BwWY5ZKvVEcsxecBRRiXltY

For entry of the cables into the roof, a notch had to be cut in one tile with a junior angle grinder with a diamond blade. This allowed the flashing to be installed.

pMzk89KlMw2jau7PtvY8uPlcv_PqYe4ZsRUGstW2It0W6jDHuOXPVQuY2SJDB_9abQ1IQSalv-Nx8rf57Z-Cecgwo4gviL4K3ct0FhW6f5mSbsMEbVCzN3wlDchL3UXp6fkIHsqThg2cI7RSLwds05g

Flashing for cable entry through the roof

zGdHg6fdPZKU6AY03EAwE_YPGOdk4itnKQHPvQx_P6J7q7B5v2aCmwla5RBAfL0T4wblkkMX0v9BzhGM5_crWTBGfaW1GeO6abuC_0mB7LYyPwOnxtlsvmHEwTZTVfc-UNrwY9Qi8vBslQGr5mlCkY8

Notch cut in tile for the flashing

The installed cut tile, flashing, and the entry of the three cables is shown below:

6iofr90rfCAccI-YT_dO2R91nIlIRSgoXjEkdC7qYJ1nJ1Uq-FvW2yQJLdppfeJ_vtuxXQoLqqk5YT6nHv-B_zrNoAlzNXITqibEaSg_oANZ_4qo74PQv8L3z-6u5tlNMIaaWgJ7s5OJAior0Zf2G9I

A small hole had to be made in the breathable moisture membrane below the cable entry flashing. All cables were secured with cable ties below the panels to keep them away from the elements as much as possible.

Next, onto the installation of the inverter.

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SchrodingersCat

Installation of the Inverter

The inverter was mounted to a gable end of the shed in the attic. The following wiring diagram was used:

1FxFE9Mb_Zby_pRgIJXv1RFq8Gs0xKHnt2uDSjMZL_3NxI8gkVFVEQaHIvnazp4cFuUJEcVs1cja_5dAICHm-ceR1iYMG8BnnBKwQkGT3KKD2sEnr7VvKI7svfJkmOTIn-3DhEkb7AErxMSuIgx5yOA

The specification requires that a firefighter safety switch is installed as close as possible to the entry point of the DC cables into the attic. This disconnects the panels from the house if there is a power cut, for example, if the emergency services disconnect your power from the grid. However, if the inverter is within 1.5m of the entry point, the switch is not required, as the inverter does the same job. This was outlined in the manual, and this was the case in our situation. A photo of the completed installation is shown below:

BExN8PppHZBHgyZ3A62XBIZyWmapl1mUds9lNdIoaJueEx2KVEOlZRg-l-fIptdT4VcYZ60dCmEdxJxH8QwkkssgQ5zpgYGrV81NRX1RRoQ24syKlCfLklySaRHlNeOol_VyPhI7ZaAseGX3eSvhBW8

The DC isolator was wired as follows:

tq5oCxaR8uVzxz3J3IeW6xVgJaH38btb6ZKlquZaw_VBDDSE_k4nmR_w2jWMXswbYY-XynmdNCHH_Tuv3nMfT7bPAW5KNDRLKkUQ0ttNKbnoEtPz4iODSAXFNB9bRF85iEDb6grJokEJAZHEvnbfR3g

PTEKuL7oTjFbdFF-9hFlRlJKWGQyOsVUBzrgNLMJ0EBJif1WOTRMIg3sd-MgJPHR_6EoDrVSfdqajJT5bm171cpFlWL-z7nyACDlKnAWqyW52rTUYun6IWoELYpXWkIlJ7j0Ex9XpOUmP_MfZwFrT7o

Two tails were added to the DC isolators output and were terminated with male and female MC4 DC connector. These were crimped with a proper tool and inserted into the inverter, as shown by the “DC1” pair of connectors below.

2r4q7jiAQn0ycOzu3TsTCQ8VrJcF0o629Eqxl2o8_TJOtJm5kPDLqi2YYdHgjVh6I0s34JJncDGpT0oXMUA_tsCRFsM7xQ5bacirVtL9AJHFgYaXQpCQSK_Qf3vI3JG5DJCYJifS-yD5_9YmTpJHDzw

For the Grid (AC) connection on the inverter, a tail was made using the supplied connector and 4mm sq AC cable. This fed into the AC isolator. The AC isolator was wired as follows:

m9k6efm9Mf_1JiX_l2nPYWoiP76kPjP83_WCvky9pj4SJHLyH5Ant396kvatgpc7W5oUnECu8b7wjcoortCl7Xsbyk8Dai5L-Zwi6NtxbpNlSkhG_9nG1KT-z6SrJoxdtl19GuOg_mcn4ozQS1S8Vo4

9EOpCNNptJZcyY5pCcJh0QZ3pTIDwEfaJnf0_TWuEj0my85UctBwwO7WXreABtatiKbQ4Wi3QWumqDDjjLv2eoOnc4ofUKUofiowp1E2mUnpjv0lCTWorQ-VeK2WQHmtHB3uIgHdqrmf3lgfpR6vJjg

We also connected the earth from the panels into the earth on the AC isolator.

All cables were clipped to the wall to secure them in place. Cable glands were used where appropriate.

Next, we needed to connect the AC isolator to the consumer unit. We had our main consumer unit located in the house. We had a secondary consumer unit located in the shed. The standard method to perform this installation is to connect it to the main consumer unit in the home. It would be more convenient, and save on cabling costs, if we were to connect it to the consumer unit in the shed. Researching this, there were installations described online that did this. But to play it safe, we decided to connect it to the main consumer unit in the house using its own dedicated cable.

We purchased a 50m drum of 4mm sq. cable to do this.

vbmy-g6X_MBRdA8TEHciTjAS9l6OAV8H3aB3f0iQ-pbzCYaD9vLs3D1Vscpv9kKc3Xpl2NGWMTVdwQD4GffMga0OzTmKmCu1cKixhTBu9Cq5y6xj1UVQXdVBw_7FdLPfGL1wk_I62F-1m_UYcRJ_HCc

This was run alongside the previous cable from the house to the sheds consumer unit. The gable wall was chased from the attic to the floor. Two 25mm (white) conduits were fitted.

Both cables were put into 25mm conduit and ran down the gable wall, as shown below:

5mXWRcQj4GmTRCFtmjwLuuKFsz-OlG5B3FJR3CLm6O8FtHne4NkvvsfmSqqlhLmVWWQVXoIFkp9IGeLk0Fhx2xzhLcBUsqDFz8HIIgGkDFVAsi3GeFlJnnx_ErSDrBBmWnZcjRYilbAQ3TH8soB-Z7c

A hole was made under the surface of the floor, leading outside. Four inch ducting was buried under the garden from the shed to the house in which the cables ran. In addition, a separate two inch duct was buried for ethernet.

Shown below is the exit hole from the shed, the four inch ducting, and the two inch ducting for the ethernet cables.

B23jcuvAQtfCvjC2HY8iPupDvKxByuCUzEom5DyHY6CCfOWmxzm4GvEWUF1fD1qOmuyb8kyhz_OJna8SgeBUr7maS9vbf7VmLRqxivwrfIupcPpqe938RgZa-ZdF9sJkELqzHZcnM_OJ6cTfo7sDWOY

The four inch ducting is shown below

2NP0DCJNfYqn2a7inVa0E_KXA28QMCTxbPRuzDYfVLLrfavPv1XjUENVUGRvtjXFPN67XkYaGrVtf-Y20E_w-kESj5byxYgju52IMcjIJI47avAJlyPzA1wZjkZypK0Hm9Uhd192MMqlTWffijmq7VA

The cable was run up the side of the house with 25mm conduit, into the attic under the eves, and over to the consumer unit.

Next, was the wiring to the consumer unit in the house.

SchrodingersCat

Wiring to the consumer unit

Note: Please note that the following is provided for reference only. Dont do anything that you are unsure about. Use a qualified professional where appropriate.

The manual indicated that the wiring to the consumer unit was as follows:

Note, a second AC isolator was not indicated in the manual. However, we wished to have one both at the consumer unit side and the shed side for ease of access.

The AC isolator and the consumer unit is shown below:

The internal wiring of the AC isolator is shown below

DMGD_BicuJmHPwwmYG93HW5mW2g46th8pPaRbqGS407FN-JZu_QEB6-uq-FeT02ooP1ISo56ohrM71qwvlLazJmGMxjZFKbm7gMoZ73diz6yfTKeBkW8aaaor1l37vM1yJFC75HS0Q51gf-d8Q8COLM

The bottom AC tail was run into the consumer unit to the RCBO. The following RCBO was purchased from screwfix:

w4Se-PHbegYF2GZ8x33ylyi73z9LBRKAbc2mNzasSXuTPEGMgl0_A_N4vp5YaailDUl-AyCuSnpZLa67B1npqaFAEncn_bWuKykDrLYc5yxO5ozJschPEzIaozG5KcOGOibCohukQHOqCtyp7Q3MfjE

It was wired into the consumer unit as follows:

YbF3lgZgaMjNLB0MpMnTzc08tAnoBhXNC6kY69HLij8OMvVgeEdKTjIuOXu85MWPxuMM4V1iB34MS9HOU3aL7K7ZR1e2qtlvPx2SvNTzR6zh02iGdyDfCF3dxJQJWnCsnY8kHr0WZvSwFzoxj9H22ak

8GD9meQOu3ROb7n-HMkgruVW4YrLU2inWKvAQvcYRAbfDp5ynhspWLOK7JVKNsbtlQAP9dxvsdZ7Q3vjAsE6P3C1MU3_0xavqUYBv5WsIiRqVpi2Xxn8D6jD7idXlwWZN-wJu1s4IW97csxjyhvtb5M

While we were at it, we wired in an Eastron SDM230 power meter on the main live feed after the main fuse/breaker. Note, this is a "nice to have" and not necessary for the installation.

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This would allow us to read the total power usage of the house, or any power that was going back to the grid.

rSY6GMfHBB8Q-JSGxrLwcW7LsO648FOHlz4-ReF_qubQriNhwoMxZc_QfFJm3TUTLvIrKi1_y8Y85-iQFkmZXbLa_3b3fnEux8uNvxjNzGgMvN_ongUN7hCeDWQ3xVbIrT5vxMmeGkacGJZu6hFZT_k

The two modbus wires of the energy meter were wired to raspberry pi using a modbus to usb adapter. A small python script would read the meter every minute and upload the results to a free online service called “Blynk”. This allows you to monitor the power usage and graphs remotely on your phone.

Finally, warning stickers were placed where appropriate, as described in the manual. One is shown below.

You need a RECI electrician to sign off on the installation, both before it is performed (look up “NC6” documentation) and a commissioning cert after. See here for details: https://www.esbnetworks.ie/new-connections/generator-connections-group/micro-generators-

The inverter came with a wifi stick that allows it to upload its generation stats to the cloud. You can configure it using its app. A sample daily graph is shown below:

And that's it!

Overall it was an interesting project. The biggest difficulty I would imagine is getting access to your roof to perform the installation. I would highly recommend solartricity as their documentation and after sales service was great.

ColemanY2K

very impressive and thanks for the guide.

one thing i noticed was the day time unit rate for electricity you used with the SEAI online calculator was 0.195 cents. Surely its much higher than that? and if so it would bring down the pay back period.

i'm trying to convince the folks to install something similar. this is what i'm getting when i plug in their details.

SchrodingersCat

Yep, the unit costs are much higher now.

The 0.195 cents was accurate at the time that I did out the calculations.

The 3kW figure in your image is nice size for a solar array. One of my regrets was not being able to fit more than 6 panels on the roof. I also probably would have oversized the inverter to future proof it, in case I wanted to mount additional panels off to the side of the shed.

if your folks do decide to go down the same route, make sure you have a RECI electrician lined up to help, you will need it to get the NC6 form signed for the ESB and probably for the final certification.

Beat of luck with it!

Gerry

Great thread, fair play to you for putting up such a detailed writeup.

andy125

I wonder is it economical to saas for the basic package with an upgraded 6kw inverter and then install more panels and a second string on the other side of the house diy, so a 2.7kwh install saas with grant and then upgrade to say 8kwh diy?

Jonathan

I've added this to the Key Threads sticky.

SchrodingersCat

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119490257#Comment_119490257

Probably, but it would depend on how much they are quoting you for the 2.7kWh install (with 6kW inverter). You could work it out after that:

If you have that quote, add on the cost of 8kW - 2.7kW = 5.3kW of panel, which is ~12 panels. Solartricity sell them at around 160e a panel https://solartricity.ie/module-longi-375w/ so about 2000e worth of panels. Add on the cost of the mounting system (check solartricity and the type of roof that you have), and the length of DC cable that you need (this is normally cheap) to give you a final cost for your SaaS & DIY install.

Then get a quote off the SaaS for a 8kW install and compare both figures against each other.

Just to note: I know that they recommend that you undersize your inverter compared to the solar array for efficency, but running a 6kW inverter off a 8kW solar array sounds like a bit too much.

irishchris

Excellent guide and well put together. one quick query on the earthing of the panels as was something not certain of when doing my own self install. Should the panels be earthed to the ac earth connection. as would imagine the idea of earthing panels would be to protect from dc voltage error or lightening. I am not sure running the rare risk of dc power escape being earthed to ac systems earth is good idea but maybe I am wrong? I earthed my panels to a separate ground earth rod and will be adding a dc spd and breaker for each array in between at a later date

bullit_dodger

Funny, I had the same conversation with a spark I know if you should have a separate earth for the DC side of the house over the existing AC side. His take on it was that "earth is earth" and that while it's true that you might have something checking earth leakage etc, it shouldn't ultimately matter.

The panels could in theory get energized and with it being a ground mount in my case (true for you too Irishchris?) in theory someone could touch it and get a zap, so I just earthed it to the AC. Less likely on the roof, but I guess someone could touch one of those via a velux window. In my case it was also complicated as I've got micro-inverters centimeters from the panels, and of course the micro-inverters have 230 AC running in/out of them. But yeah, I used the AC earth and didn't run a separate DC earth.

andy125

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119490380#Comment_119490380

My worry would be that as you don't own the install there could be some bother with adding panels to the system yourself.

Regarding the 8kwh panels into the 6kw inverter, it would be 4kwh NE and 4Kwh SW so I would imagine it would be ok as chances of both strings hitting 4kwh for a prolonged time if at all seems unlikely but open to correction.

bullit_dodger

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119491016#Comment_119491016

Could do in the middle of summer when the sun is sort of more "overhead" than aligned with any particular roof direction at noon. Even if you didn't get 100% output, and got say 80%, that would be (4kw x 80%) + (4Kwp x 80%) = 6.4Kw so you could easily exceed the inverter rating.

Fret not though, inverters will only suck down what they need and they will "clip" the rest of the generation as something surplus. So if you had 8Kwp in panels (and you could get 8Kwp from the sunshine that day), the inverter will only draw down 6Kw. it's not like a wind turbine where it will destroy itself if you don't use what you generate.

Best bet though is to look up the inverter specs where they will tell you the max wattage to hook up to. Generally it's good practice to oversize the panels by 30-50%, but again best confirm that the inverter can handle it from the datasheet.

graememk

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119490460#Comment_119490460

Yep mines all installed to the house earth.. but not to each panel, On the slate roof it was to the rail (rail touches all panels) and on the steel roof Its to one of the mounts.

SchrodingersCat

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119490460#Comment_119490460

My view is what bullit_dodger said: "earth is earth". So there should be no need for a separate earth for the panels. I guess if there is a worry about lightening, what you could do is drive an additional earthing rod into the ground and run the earth cable from the panels, to the earthing rod, and back to the AC circuit. Hopefully that would give the lightening the shortest, and safest, path to ground. I'm no expert on this though.

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119491016#Comment_119491016

I would imagine that any modifications that you make to the SaaS install will void your warranty with them. It would be up to yourself if you were happy with that risk. By rights, the ESB should be notified of the increased capacity, but I doubt that they would be too interested. Yea, thats a good point by yourself and bullit_dodger, worst case scenario you will just lose out on potential solar generation by under speccing the inverter. As the peak generation typically only lasts a couple of hours in the day, I would imagine that you wouldn't lose out on that much power anyway.

poker--addict

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119490380#Comment_119490380

I am not sure SAAS will even entertain a quote for larger system? Or will provide one massively inflated.

Whatwicklow

Excellent write up, well done and congratulations on the installation.

Nelbert

Fantastic write up.... To the point I'm a lot more comfortable with the idea of a self install myself.

Gerry

I don't have a problem with the DIY but getting on the roof is a bit off putting. will figure it out.

hwshaw

Does the meter not need to be connected with the current clamp. The wired with RS485 back to the Inverter. Not just a nice to have?

SchrodingersCat

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119515533#Comment_119515533

No, not unless you need to know how much energy you are sending back to the grid. For example, for a hot water diverter or battery charger, for example.

daesal

Thanks. Great write up. Appreciate the extra time it took during install to photo everything for us. :)

Seventy Plus

Thank you for going to the trouble of putting all of it up.

keio

Hi, excellent thread with very clear directions and information. I recently got a solar PV system installed but opted against a battery at the time. I have since sourced 2 Dyness 5.1kwh batteries. Struggling to get an installer to connect for me. Is there any info like the original thread with information on what is required to connect the batteries to the inverter? Is it just the isolator that is required or am I missing something? I will be getting an electrician to connect but he’s just not familiar with solar requirements etc.

thanks in advance…

graememk

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121555096#Comment_121555096

What inverter do you have?

But its quite simple

Positive and negative to positive and negative, Ideally though an isolator. Bit like hooking up a car battery to a car.

CAN cable from battery to inverter... and thats it.

keio

Thanks. I have a Solis inverter. All the cables and stuff. Looked at the information and it does look straight forward but presumed there was a lot more to it as a few installers i did talk to wanted €500+ to connect up the batteries.

I have all the cables and stuff so looks like I only need the isolator and box and good to go. I have the area all set up from a fire proofing and insulation perspective.

billy_beckham

Hi, excellent write up! I just have a question on the diagram below,

Did you install the fused spur shown?

What's its purpose do you know?

I presume the green line shown is earth..

Many thanks again, simplifies the whole process..

AmpMan

The fused spur is to protect the cable feeding the firemans switch.

That diagram is fine in theory but you would be much better off feeding that spur directly from the consumer unit (or an existing socket circuit)

You will be physically tight for space in the AC isolator.

2011

A good thread, but just be aware that it is illegal to do most of this work if you are not a REC (Registered Electrical Contractor), many of course take this with a pinch of salt (which I can understand). However, for safety reasons the National Wiring Rules IS10101 need to be adhered to. There have been a lot of changes in recent years (such as the requirement for CPR compliant cables).

Another consideration is that if you are going to ignore the fact that this work should be certified (only a REC can do this) then at least test it properly. This should include earth fault loop impedance test, insulation test, bonding checks, testing of the RCD etc. Failure to do so can be risky and could have insurance implications.

ESB Networks are within their rights to disconnect an installation if it has grid connected solar PV panels that were not electrically installed and certified by a REC.

For the record, I am not a REC.

billy_beckham

OK, so fireman's switch monitors ac power and shuts off when it's gone. What if there was a battery connected to inverter?

SchrodingersCat

It doesn’t make a difference.

The battery (in standard installations) doesn’t keep the house powered if there is a loss of power coming from the grid.