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VW ID.4

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1281282284286287427

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 13,580 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    Yeah I'm definitely going to avoid the 21 inch rims next time. They look great, until you see the cost of tyres

    For comparison, my wife's Leaf would cost approximately €300 for a full set of tyres. That might pay for 1 tyre for an ID.4 😭

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,046 ✭✭✭✭micks_address


    im not sure 20s or 19s would be significantly cheaper? i only ended up with 21s as the car was a dealer pre order i was able to grab when they were hard to get.. i should have asked if they would have swapped on smaller wheels.. they probably would but probably wouldnt have given me any money back!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 13,580 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    You'd save a few hundred by going to 19s with premium tyres, the main difference is there's generally more selection available and more budget brands

    For example, when I was looking before at 21s in all weather, the only option was the €260 Goodyears

    Drop down to 19s and you can get tyres for €88 each

    Now would I personally buy the €88 tyres? Probably not, they're C rated for grip which doesn't sound great

    But there's mid range options available for around €100-150 per tyre

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,470 ✭✭✭KCross


    Your front toe was out, which matches with what you showed in your tyre pics. So, you look at the initial and final columns and the final should be between the min/max values in that centre column for it to be within spec.


    What's odd though is that they left the rear toe out of spec. Maybe that's not adjustable or something on the rear. Were the rear tyres evenly worn?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,046 ✭✭✭✭micks_address




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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,024 ✭✭✭n.d.os


    I've just checked the software version and it's 2.3.0. No updates available. Does that sound up to date?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 13,580 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    Nope, ring the garage and arrange an update to 3.2, that's the latest. OTA update got stopped for the cars on 2.3 because they bricked a bunch of cars

    I think the timers got improved (fixed would be a stretch) in 3.0

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 624 ✭✭✭handpref




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,470 ✭✭✭KCross


    No, that's quite old and yes the timers are complete garbage on that version.

    You need to get it booked in for the v3.2 update. Its not done OTA. Its a mandatory visit to the workshop to get that done and it will take several days to get it done and it is free and they should give you a replacement car as its a VW recall.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,024 ✭✭✭n.d.os


    Thanks guys. I've been pestering my wife to drop in her car for a service so I think this is a good excuse to get it booked in. We really need to get scheduled charging working. It's a bloody nuisance with the ID swiping it on in the middle of the night.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,046 ✭✭✭✭micks_address


    just noticed this morning the garage put two bridgestone turanza on the back and two pirelli on the front... was rushing back to work yesterday and just had a quick glance at the front tyres.. annoying really as i wanted them to match but probably makes feic all difference long term.. i was told would be 4 pirelli.. probably could have saved a few quid if id just got them to do the back and got the front two fitted in discount tyres



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 30,869 ✭✭✭✭TitianGerm


    What's the difference in price? If the Bridgestone are more expensive I wouldn't look for them to be changed but I'd be ringing to complain anyway. If they're a cheaper tyre then I'd want them swapped.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,046 ✭✭✭✭micks_address


    The bridgestones are a bit more expensive.. and to be honest ive been told they wear better than the pirelli.. and as the car is mainly rear wheel drive.. probably as well stick with them.. just annoys me when i ask for something and get something else! they didnt even mention it in the garage.. on the phone 4 pirelli was discussed.. i didnt specifically ask for pirelli but thats what they had in stock


    PXL_20230914_072820467.jpg PXL_20230914_072812028.jpg




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,470 ✭✭✭KCross


    probably could have saved a few quid if id just got them to do the back and got the front two fitted in discount tyres

    Ahem!... that's what I suggested! 😀


    I'm not too keen on your dealer for tyres. He gave odd advice about alignment and then gave you odd tyres after you had agreed on what was to be done. I wouldn't be going back to them for tyres to be honest. Use your local tyre centre.


    but probably makes feic all difference long term

    It probably wont. As long as you have the same tyres on left/right of each axle you are good. Having a different tyre front/back doesn't really matter as long as they are all decent quality.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,046 ✭✭✭✭micks_address


    yeah i know you suggested it.. and the only reason i didnt go for it was getting it all done in one place yesterday and matching tyres.. could have saved a bit alright.. havent bothered phoning them about it yet. im back there in 2 weeks re the sotfware update.. i could push for a change but im not sure its worth it



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,411 ✭✭✭Dr4gul4


    Hello fellow Id 4 owners.

    Picked up our 232 yesterday afternoon, didnt realise it at the time, but we happen to have the dreaded electric drive not working correctly error, 23 km into its life.

    So anyway it's going back to the garage Monday it now transpires.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,046 ✭✭✭✭micks_address


    That happened only once on mine and cleared itself..might be once off?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,046 ✭✭✭✭micks_address


    Am I missing covers from these nuts?


    PXL_20230914_150117898.jpg




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,411 ✭✭✭Dr4gul4


    Hoping as much, but it's really the wife's car, so I'd rather it not be there at all, hense it's going back into the VW garage.

    They do say it a fairly generic error.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 9,661 ✭✭✭Padraig Mor




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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 13,580 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    Nope, all good

    You're obviously a more careful driver than me with the alloys looking so good 😁

    EDIT: Are you driving a GTX? I thought they had different alloys to the 1st Max

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 726 ✭✭✭PaddyCar


    Hi all. Looking at getting a 212 id4 over the next few days and have a couple lined up for viewing. I'm new to EV so is there any particular questions l should be asking regarding battery degradation, tyre age or alignment, service history etc.?

    Also, what is the market like at the moment and would there be much room for haggling on price. Listed prices are just under the 40k mark.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 13,580 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    Check DoneDeal for prices to get an idea of where they are, just be sure to compare like for like specs

    If you're looking at an ID.4 Life then I would say there's definitely room to haggle, the more expensive trims might be harder to argue down in price

    Chances are the car is fine, but the seller could have a battery health report if the car has been serviced recently (it's 2 years for the ID cars, so it might have been done recently)

    You can use an OBD scanner if you have one and an app to read the estimated battery capacity, if the owner is okay with you plugging it in

    Otherwise you can figure it out from the GOM range and consumption. Ask the owner to open the screen showing the battery percentage and long term driving data to get the consumption

    You can use the formula below to figure it out

    (Range on GOM / Battery percentage) * Consumption = Battery capacity

    The capacity should be around 77kWh

    So if I take my car which is currently at 42% with 199km range estimated and an average consumption of something like 16kWh/100km

    (199km/42%)*16kWh/100km = 75.8kWh battery capacity

    I can't remember the exact consumption so it might be a little off, or my battery has lost some capacity since 2021

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,046 ✭✭✭✭micks_address




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,678 ✭✭✭joe1303l


    Not sure how accurate this method would be ? I’d have thought it would be short term consumption data that would be linked to the GOM range. If you really need to be sure of the battery health, it might be worth paying for an Aviloo test. If the car has several years of battery warranty left, I wouldn’t be too concerned.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,240 ✭✭✭Comer1


    That is not in any way an accurate way to calculate battery capacity. Using the trip instead of long term data might be a bit more accurate. FIY, my car came with 71.5 kWh capacity new and is still the same after 20,000 km after many checks with an OBD scanner.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,046 ✭✭✭✭micks_address


    Apologies if posted before - drive of the updated 2024 id4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgb-I6ENHsY


    software really snappy... gtx will be up to 340 bhp but no comment when asked if it will only be full beans above 80% battery



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 13,580 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    I wouldn't say it's a very accurate test, but it should be enough for a quick sanity check. The change in weather today definitely threw mine off a good bit

    I agree cars from 2021 should be fine, the biggest issue might be because of a bad battery cell which should be replaced under warranty. Checking the VIN against any open recalls should be able to confirm this

    The problem with the Aviloo test is that it can be pretty expensive and you need to bring the car to one of the test partners (I think there's only two at the moment)

    A simple OBD scanner can tell you a lot but will generally just be based on the car's BMS data

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,527 ✭✭✭✭ted1


    I like the gear switch where it is at the moment. And have no issue with the 3 window buttons. Saves my opening the rear by mistake.


    I wonder what the kWh/100 at 180km…



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,678 ✭✭✭joe1303l


    Pretty sure the Aviloo test can be done yourself by ordering a kit from their webshop, plugging it into the OBD port for a few days and sending it back. Bjorn from YT did a review. I think it cost €99. It’s not a lot of money in the context of a €50K EV.



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