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Triton T90SR max inlet pressure

Dermot224

Hi,Brand new T90SR pump clicking on start up. Triton service guy changed pump but same thing happened.He then told me I would need a pressure reducing valve.Shower is on ground floor and fed from raised up tank in attic of 2 storey house but shower spec says in can take up to 10 bar. I think he is wrong.Thoughts please.

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John.G

It says a maximum head of 10M but you shouldn't have any problem with it on the ground floor IMO.

Does the clicking stop once the shower is running? You might also check the flow rate by turning the temperature control to fully cold and holding a bucket under the shower head for exactly 30 secs, then measure with a 1L container, milk bottle etc and X 2 to give the flowrate in LPM, should be a minimum of 8LPM.

[Deleted User]

10 bar is for a mains fed shower. Definitely not for a pumped electric.

I agree with John that ground floor should be fine but if 2nd pump has the same issue then Id be willing to place a large bet that it's a plumbing issue rather than the shower

Edit: I don't suppose you are in a home with massive ceilings? 8 foot ceiling is about standard

Dermot224

Getting 8 LPM,Ceilings are standard height. Clicking stops after about 1 min and pump runs smooth Any other moving part in shower that could cause this?

John.G

The only obvious item that clicks is the TCO (thermal overtemp cutout) but this should only happen if the temperature exceeds 48C. you will hear it clicking off approx 15 secs after shutting off the shower but this is quite normal and a once off.

Does the shower reach normal showering temp in less than 30 secs?, say 15/20 secs.

Anyhow I doubt you would hear the TCO clicking with the shower running despite its silent running pump.

[Deleted User]

Seems strange that the engineer didn't put a pressure gage on it to confirm that there is too much pressure before telling you that it's a pressure issue. From what you are saying you can't have 10m of head height.

I'd suggest getting the installer back. Your contract is with them and not Triton

Dermot224

Heats up ok.Just tried a few things. No noise when running fully cold. When turning to hot clicking starts and water pulses just past falf way point between hot and cold.Moving a bit more towards hot it stops. Happens on all three power levels.

Dermot224

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120864291#Comment_120864291

I bougbt the shower last week and bathroom guys installed it. If shower faulty Triton responsible,No? Could it be solinoid or flow valve?

[Deleted User]

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120864387#Comment_120864387

It's all a big mess.

Installer should always supply. Your contract is now with the retailer for the shower and installer for the installation. If installer supplies then they are responsible for shower and installation.

You have no legal contract with Triton themselves.

Definitely not the solenoid. Tiny possibility it's the flow valve but much more likely a plumbing issue. I assume the shower has a direct dedicated feed from the cold water tank rather than tapping into a 3/4 inch pipe feeding other things like the toilet and basin. I'd expect the engineer would have flagged this a a possible reason if it was plumbed incorrectly

I suggest calling the installer & ask him how much head height would he guess. Assuming it's no way near 10m then I would call Triton again and ask to speak to the head engineer. You might have better luck with him.

Dermot224

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120864439#Comment_120864439

Head height at my house about 16 feet between shower head and tank outlet pipe.Seperate pipe. Just wondering if installed correctly what could possibly be wrong with shower unit. Triton guy telling me i need a PRV cant be right. I know someone with one of these showers on the ground floor of a three storey house without needing a PRV on cold feed pipe.

John.G

Maybe a non return valve installed for some reason and faulty/sticking?, you could remove the supply at the shower (but needs cover removal), and check the gravity flowrate. Is this a new install or replacing a old shower with the existing piping?. Check the filter if you do remove the cover.

Dermot224

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120864484#Comment_120864484

All brand new,Shower unit,new pipes. Seem strange that Triton engineer says i need a PRV on a shower thats probably fitted on the ground floor of a 2 storey house? Strange that. Has to be something in shower. As i said flow knob turned fully to left or rightvall is good.Only clicking between about 11 o clock to 2 o clock position

John.G

Strange one, only other thought is to ensure that its gravity fed and not from the mains.

[Deleted User]

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120864476#Comment_120864476

He's already replaced the motor & these motors are bullet proof anyway so I'd rule out the motor. If plumbed correctly then it really only leaves the flow valve though I have only replaced 2 or 3 flow valves in the last 30 years. I have seen quite a few Mira Elite Qt & SE make a small squealing noise when flow valve (bottom dial) is at a certain position. Tiny noise and squeal is the type of noise I'd expect closing any valve. I can see why engineer assumed pressure issue as you seem to discribe a water hammer type of noise. He should have known the head height was OK from the height of the building & he should have verified it with a pressure gauge. It is possible that the triton engineer for your area is on holiday & they are using a plumber who might not have experience in repair.

If the head height is good ask for Triton head engineer. He won't have a problem taking your call. Explain the head height & I'd be surprised if he doesn't send the engineer back or if you are in Dublin he might call in himself.

If we supplied & fitted the shower and we heard that noise we would have taken another T90sr out of the van and fitted it. It's the simplest solution. If we had the same issue with the new shower then it's a plumbing issue. If we don't have the same issue then I'd throw the first one back to my supplier. I wouldn't waste time trying to find out what is wrong with the shower. Far quicker to put in a new one. This is why the tradesmen should always supply the materials imo

Lenar3556

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120864476#Comment_120864476

An odd one. There doesn’t seem to be any logical reason to install a PRV.

I would keep the pressure on Triton to come up with a solution.

Are you certain the supply isn’t pumped elsewhere, or on mains?

If you remove the shower head and hose does the presentation change at all?

Has this new run of direct pipework from the attic tank just been installed?

I would be inclined to suspect the shower given what you describe and I would exhaust options with Triton before looking for a not so obvious plumbing fault.

Some photos and video would be great.

Dermot224

Here is video. Notice noise is only when knob trurned towards centre position. No noise when fully to left or right.Solenoid has also been changed

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ndBwH5HDGAje2SrOuKworSEAo_rS5S3c/view?usp=drivesdk

[Deleted User]

Did Triton replce the solenoid? I only ask because it was never going to be the solenoid. A solenoid can't fail in such a way to cause this. I'd be very disappointed in the engineer that thinks it could be the fault.

I would think it's either the flow valve (I don't think it is) or it's a plumbing issue & not the shower. I suppose another tiny possibility is it had a faulty motor & engineer mixed good with bad & put the original one back in instead of the new one.

The video doesn't show the water flow. I assume the flow is pulsating when it makes that sound?

Dermot224

Yes water pulsing,Engineer replaced solenoid, Plumber says all good.

Direct connection from tank with gate valve.

Might need to replace complete unit so rule out shower but cant see what could be wrong with plumbing.All good at full flow with no noise/pulsing

Dermot224

Sound seems to be coming from water inlet but filter clear.

[Deleted User]

It's a strange one all right. I don't understand why engineer doesn't just swap out the shower. It can be done in less than 10 minutes. There would only have been one visit /call out. It would prove once & for all if it's the shower or plumbing at fault. Shower could be swapped back if proven not to be the problem.

Personally I couldn't dedicate so much time & visits to a project like this.

Did you get to talk to the Triton head engineer? James, I think, his name is.

John.G

I would shut off the water supply to the shower at the CWST, remove the supply at the shower, restore the supply and measure it, if, and it probably is > than 8 LPM then they will simply have to replace the shower, no arguments.

It doesn't t sound that healthy at any setting and does sound like a pump problem.

Dermot224

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120872513#Comment_120872513

Thats my next step.

[Deleted User]

Like John says, I can't see it being a water pressure problem. The only time I saw water pressure from the tank being too much was in a Georgian type house in Dublin city. Shower was in the basement level & tank was several floors above. Each floor, except the basement, had really high ceilings. Slightly too much pressure for pumped electric but not enough for mains fed to function correctly in the summer months.

Dermot224

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120872570#Comment_120872570

Just checked flow rate with shower head removed.Its 9 LPM

John.G

Thanks but thats not what I suggested, I would remove the supply pipe from the shower (needs shower cover removed) and just measure the gravity flow rate from the cold water storage tank, there can't be any argument then that the flowrate is insufficient, I know its flowing greater than 8LPM via the pump but any pump will provide the equivalent of another ~ 10M of static suction head (known as the NPSH).

EDIT: Even easier and just as effective for measuremenr purposes, ensure power off at pull cord, turn the power selector switch to the cold position, turn the temperature control fully anticlockwise to the coldest position, remove the cover, two screws on top, one on the bottom, remove the filter cover & filter (first isolate the water supply) restore the water supply and measure the flowrate, there cannot be any arguments then re the plumbing. Also of course ensure the storage tank is refilling while using the shower.

Dermot224

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120872827#Comment_120872827

Thanks,Good idea but how will a capture the water,it will shoot out of inlet

John.G

It shouldn't shoot out more than the length of the shower tray or bath, if you think it will,you will need another pair of hands to open the isol valve while you hold a bucket against/under it for 30 secs, if this is too difficult then you will get a fair idea of the flowrate if it shoots out which it should with 0.5 or 0.6bar behind it.

Dermot224

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120875909#Comment_120875909

I have just done what you suggest and am getting a little bit above 8 LPM so flow rate ok.

John.G

Thats good, I would contact them and tell them that, also, if possible, email them the video, or show it to the next service person, they should then just replace the shower with a new one.

Dermot224

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120876132#Comment_120876132

Does it invalidate warranty if I tell them I opened shower to check flow rate?

John.G

My neighbour got one of these installed just a year ago but had problems in getting it to run cool enough on setting 2 even with the temperature control fully anticlockwise so his installer repositioned the cover as per installation instructions and it seemed to run OK, I measured the flowrate just now and its only 6.4LPM fully anticlockwise and the control still has to be almost fully over now with a mains temp of 18.5C. On 1/2 power, setting 1, its set to one oclock which he normally uses in the summer, apart from that its running relatively quietly.