Not sure how many folks here read Arcade Otaku, but check out the work one of the guys has put in over there to the Mikado Europe project in Spain.
He's going to have every Cave arcade release playable.
Oh
My
God
I know right??? Half tempted to look for last minute flights!
REAL HYPE!
I did that after reading the post, a flight to Spain and a one hour train ride.
Can't do it, but in some universe the single me is already there
Did anyone here see the almost full cave set for sale for €80,000 I think it was?
Holy hell! Where was that?
Reduced to €65,000 quick now's your chance
https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/fs-fullset-cave-sh3.25206/
To quote Peter Venkman in Ghostbusters "Everyone has three mortgages nowadays!"
Selling all them to buy 2 games
Literally insanity. You could probably stock an absolutely fantastic arcade and console collection for that kind of money and open a business like arcade club and actually make money 🤣
As mentioned before, I had an Atomiswave which I picked up from m0zie81 (<-- if I replace the '0' with an 'o', boards for some reason replaces it with "Amanda Lively Schoolroom") back in 2015. Only problem was that I had it in my workplace. It was fine at the started but when I had a notion to get hit home, the options for doing that (van with a taillift or allowing randos into the office) had all gone - so it sat in work for another few years. The pandemic/pox happened and it was moved into a corner.
Flash forwards to a few weeks back, I got some new motivation to get her home. The only way, take it mostly apart and use the missuses car.
It started like this;
And went to this with the control panel off
And then the screen out, front panel off and all bunged into the car;
That was one trip, next day BOOM!
So got all the parts home and then start to clean/assemble the cab (cat was of little help)
And now she is together at least...only problem is that the two Arcade1Up cabs will either need to go into storage or get sold due to the lack of space :(
Cab itself had a few scuffs which I thought had cut through the paintwork but most turned out to be 'magic eraser sponge'able so came off which is great.
Mistercade now installed - need to remind meself how the controls are setup for coin, menu etc. :D
Monitor was dim at initial power on but after 10min it brightened up. Maybe a capkit is in order, but I think its 80+ caps so it will be a chunk of work. Good news, I got a Hakko desoldering gun so it should make light work of it.
I don't think I've ever seen someone actually transport an Atomiswave in the back of a car haha, fair play! That's some amount of disassembly. Did all the screws/bolts come out easily or was there any corrosion?
If you've a similar MiSTer firmware setup to myself and have a kick harness installed, pressing player One button 1 & button 6 at the same time should bring the menu up.
Totally forgot you had those converted Dinokings by the way! they're absolutely gorgeous.
The bolts around the control panel needed encourement most likely due to its abuse in an arcade and 'spills' but they came out. Once the control panel and support has been removed, there is another bracket which is for the coin slide and that was a pain to remove with the monitor in. I should have waited until it was out before removing. All in all, just two people needed to dismantle/move with some balancing of the monitor bazel on a head when unbolting it :D
I've seen a video of someone horking one of these into a car on its back fully together. Defo wouldn't have fit in herselves car like that. The control panel wouldn't have allowed the boot closed. Wouldn't be a fun drive around the M50 :D
MiSTer - I had a kickharness adapter (kick to JAMMA edge) and it worked a treat. Just need to sort audio to take direct from the MiSTerCade direct to the speakers. JST connector/cable in post which I'll throw on phono connectors.
Need a new marquee light. The tube that was in it was over sized and did't like going back in after I tried to figure out the power cabling. Anyone just use a 12V LED strip?
Great job. I'd say nervous enough going over speed bumps and the like! Taking anything apart you're always worried something will go wrong putting it back again so fair play.
Good choice on robocop too. I managed to pull a miracle on that robocop 2 pcb I picked up a bit back, just by prodding around near some ram chips the text glitch disappeared, probably a semi dodgy solder point. But 100% now.
The dark seal pcb had a load of legs lifted on one of the cpu's, pressing down on it the game was attempting to boot in some way, way beyond me with soldering so I passed it onto bgollie who swore on his life that he'd get it working, 150% guarantee ;)
I also saw someone put up a video testing the neku killer instinct diagnostics with no joy so far. Hopefully it'll work out soon.
I got mine in the back of a Toyota Starlet on its way for respray but with monitor and panel also removed
I'm now on the hunt for some artwork for both the Atomiswave and the DinoKings.
For the Atomiswave, a replacement instructions panel strip, coin sticker and maybe a Metal Slug 6 marquee poster
Fot the Dinos, something for the above & below the monitor slots. Maybe even a generic control panel artwork rather than the basic white ones I have.
If anyone can recommend a printer for such, do let me know. I've tapped the NL folks at arcadeartrepro.com to see what they can do.
So I know a lot of folk including myself have been on the lookout for arcade machine coins that are a suitable alternative for 100 yen coins.
I have a handful of yen but would like a nice bundle of coins for the machine and yen are increasingly more difficult and expenive to get.
Most arcade coin tokens like Sega, Capcom or unbranded are a totally different size, thickness, weight etc. and require adjustment of the coin entry slot and mech itself, often needing to totally change the entry slot and remove parts of the coin mech. Effectively making the mech a shute wihout any of the mechanics and familiar "clunk" sounds!
I've been on the hunt for a token that is like a 100 yen coin but ensuring the entry slot and mech require little to no modification.
Say Hello to these little guys from Aliexpress. I saw them linked on UKVAC but with not a lot of context so took a punt on 200 of them for circa 40 euro.
Original yen front and back on left, tokens on the right
As you can see they look very like 100 yen coins but with MVS written on one side. No changing of the coin entry slot required and they go through the coin mech already set for 100 yen without any adjustment. Sort of.
As the coins are made of steel, you need to flip the magnet around in the mech to stop them getting stuck. I don't see this as a dealbreaker as that part of the mech is just used to pick up fake coins which in this case we are knowingly putting through and we're not in a commerical environement. The all important screw adjustments keeeping it set at stock for 100 yen remain untouched.
But otherwise you have a coin mech that can accept original 100 yen coins along with these tokens without any physical adjustments, all while retaining that all important clunk clunk clunk sound as the coin works it way through the mech!
I have put a good few through the mech there now without any rejecting.
I bought some stuff from this guy recently in the UK, really decent chap.
Anyone have a super hangon cabinet here?
I couldn't do anything with the Atomiswave to bring up the brightness, resorted to getting a complete capkit for the monitor chassis.
So, work area setup.
Many hours later...all the old caps, about 65 of them. Seems that the chassis in the Atomiswaves are both crappy and have a lot of caps. The Hakko desoldering gun is amazing. Replaces a desoldering station which would need a lot of cleaning after every few components. No stopping with the Hakko.
A photo doesn't do it justice but the monitor is perfect now...apart from having perfect geometry, thats well above my skill/patience :D
Need to do 21 and I've been stalling , 65 is a pain
Worth getting it done if it's needed. For me it was a semi stab in the dark as the only thing I could think to bring the monitor back to (bright) life. Also, if I can do it - anyone can do it 😀
Now need to follow up on the artwork, hopefully the NL lad is up for bits for this and the DinoKings. Settled on 'bust-a-move' and 'the last blade 2'. Atomiswave marquee, 'Samurai Shodown VI'
Id second Olly in Arcade Artshop , a gent and always helpful. Not sure on customs now with UK stuff though.
@KeRbDoG Where did you get the cap kit?
From the folks at ArcadePartsandRepair.com - I used a package forwarding service from the US->IE. I'm sure there are folks in Europe but none I could find for the chassis I had.
Artwork - cool, will tap Olly but I see on the site they aren't doing anything custom anymore. Sure no harm in asking.
65 caps? ouch! fair play to you, I'd say that was beyond tedious. Colours in that picture look lovely, I'd say you're delighted.
Yeah options for cap's this side are limited to say the least and parts suppliers mostly carry moq's on some if not a good few parts so drives prices up ,need a few cap kits and even with the forwarding factored in it was working out cheaper to get it from US ,madness i still haven't bought them
Console5 have always been great for any cap orders I've put through in the past, nice dude running the site too.
He's a super nice chap I have to say. It just kills me to get roasted on shipping AND import fees. It makes inexpensive bits like caps just feel extortionate at times.
The extended times and prices are crap as well I payed close to 20 quid for some slow blow fuses from UK 2 weeks ago and still waiting for them to arrive 🤨and need them to see my parts list from the states which will be another wait
Nice job @KeRbDoG You would highly recommend the hakko?
I've gone through 2x China desoldering pumps so far and they cause too many problems. Set at 300 degrees and the smallest 0.8 nozzle they leave a small ring mark on the pcb around the pin.
Then 300 is too cold to get those big gnd and 5v planes.
I've popped too many traces around the through hole over the years too.
Got such a pain with it I now thin the pins with low melt solder and a quick 30 second blast with heat gun to remove and then desoldering braid to clear out the hole. Still a pain but at least no pcb marks or popped traces.
