That was mixed 4:1.
You can go neater if even worse soiled.
The Omnia 2.0.
Yes sorry. Everything you need is in the kit.
Words mean nothing unless recorded - they will simply be denied. Ask for in writing, if not you may need to ramp this up even to solicitor level.
Posted the below in the delivery thread thinking it was this one..
Just on the battery discussion that is going on. I had 11% when I plugged in last night and it added 54kw according to the app. Going by what people are saying this will reduce and more will be added to the buffer?
54 kWh
That would indicate a 60 kWh battery based in 89% being 54.
I wouldn't believe what the app tells you I'd go by what your charger says was delivered.
The landing page in the app uses derived values assuming a full battery is 60kWh usable, which we know with lfp is not possible.
How could u ever add 60kWh to the battery when we know there is a hard buffer or 3kWh for a start.
I know I sound like a broken record here but u simply cannot tell what amount ot your battery is usable without proper diagnostics.
Take the tessie app for example. It's total garbage when it comes to consumption figures. Everything is based off a usable capacity of 60.5kWh. Which is 15% off from what my usable battery is. The figures tessie are providing are literally useless.
Like no offence to anyone on here but it seems like no one really has a clue when it comes to what is going on with the battery pack. So much misinformation and misunderstanding
I’ve no idea as I don’t have the base LFP car alright.
But that was the point of my post
I charged lastnight. My battery was at 8%. The Tesla App said last session was 55kWh. I just checked the Hypervolt App and this says last session was 55.33kWh.
What software are you all on? I’m on 22.24.8 but my neighbour says he is on a newer one. Is there anyway to get it pushed to the car? I have it set to advanced or whatever the option is for updates and it is connected to wifi.
It comes when your car is selected.
There’s no real way to force an update other than making sure your on wifi and have advanced selection done.
The servers will choose when each batch gets the update.
Not all cars get the same update at once for obvious bug control.
And some cars get the same features with older updates. For example, my Fremont car has the same features on 24.8 as the MIC cars do have on 28.1 (Sonic/cup head etc).
Don’t stress too much about the software version.
I already ordered on Friday because of this. Deep Metalic Blue, now just sit and wait!
Well done, also with the way the Euro has gone lately would be surprised if a price increase isn't imminent..
Neither seems to take into account transmission loss there. There is no way of telling what your usable battery is by deriving from the above - it's literally impossible.
A battery diagnostic tool is required. I knew something was off because on a full days driving my used energy was maxing out at 51kWh.
There is a hard coded buffer built into the LFP battery of about 2.5~3kWh. This can never be accessed by the vehicle. So the absolute max usable capacity will be 57.5kWh. So the max that 100% to 0% can possible be is 57.5kWh in these packs. But that assumes a zero buffer which again is not happening.
The buffer in any earlier 2022 RWD's was about 2.5kWh meaning usable battery was about 55kWh.
However many of the RWD's that landed in september 2022 have a buffer of 5.5~6kWh which reduces the usable battery to max 52kWh.
People on here don't seem to believe that for some reason and good luck to them. If you have received a September car with a lower buffer then well done, you got the car as advertised.
For anyone with the massive 6kWh buffer then you were kind of screwed..............
I can understand where you're coming from and hope you get to the bottom of it. I would be interested to see the end result. If you bought with an expectation of 55kWh and you're only getting 50kWh as an example, then that's a decent chunk of change. For me personally, I saw the car advertised at ~500km but expected 350-400 winter/summer ranges. I did expect a bit more available range than I'm seeing right now I have to say and I am coming from a 24kWh Leaf. Having the bigger buffer will mean the available range will stay consistent for longer and for me, the range is more than enough, so I am content.
What diagnostic equipment were you using to get the output figure of 51kwh?
Tesla technician dialed into the battery after I queried the anomaly
He confirmed this I.E usable battery was circa 52kWh
Alternatively u can use the scan my tesla app yourself but you need a piece or hardware to plug into the car and connect via Bluetooth
So it was the cars system saying this since thats the only thing the Tesla guy can see. Interesting the difference in that and the amount they are telling us is being put in on the app. Especially since someone said what was taken in matched what their charger said. I know there is always loss but that seems like a big one.
what sort of kWh is your car taking in and at what % to get to 100%?
Someone here trying to flip their car straight after collecting?
Went up last week.
Seller claims pics aren’t great as his sister took them. In the reflection you can see a man taking the pics.
Just trying to cash in basically.
Done my first big drive today. Went from 100% and used 34kWh, leaving 33% left. Back of the envelope calculation gives useable battery of 52kWh.
Well you simply cannot get the same wltp from 52kwh as from 55kwh so Tesla could end up being fined or having to compensate owners if this comes to pass as true for all newer cars.
I have a car on order and I would not be happy with a reduced distance. Even 3kwh divided by 150wh per km would equate to 20 kms less. Or 4% of 491km. Would Tesla pay that back - unlikely. I'm going to go with they have done something hopefully temporarily. If not it will come to the boil sooner or later.
i feel sure that Tesla will have quoted correct WLTP. It is usual that a certain % of battery energy is kept in reserve (common with all EV's), however that just means that when battery is depleted to this buffer level the car registers as 0% (0 km's) but the battery still has available power that can be accessed and used to drive/increase range. It seems a prudent measure adopted by Tesla in their BMS to discourage drivers from overly relying on this with attendant consequences, risk, dangers and long term maximising battery health.
For anyone who is interested I am attaching a link from a well regarded expert who has tested and demonstrated this with an LFP Tesla battery with real time "Scan my Tesla" side by side which shows the buffer. The objective was to drive to 0% and 0 kms but to keep driving until the car eventually stopped. When the car registers 0% you will see that he was able to drive another 33.7 km's Clearly this is not recommended but does (for me anyway) clarify the need for a buffer and why it is incorporated. We all can have views as to the size of this buffer but I think it may help with understanding.
Just wondering where you got that 34kWh used from? From amount recorded on car/charger to fill back up to 100%, or from the trip recorder?
My car is a March 2022 RWD with the nominal 60kWh LFP battery. On most cars I can obtain WLTP range with a little care, ie drive like a granny with no heat/aircon ☺️ but it appears to be easier on the Tesla than other EVs we have had. Last week did about 1K in UK, some fast some slow, rarely saw less than 4kms/% sometimes 5kms/%.
Basically what I am saying is I don't really care what the usable battery is, the range is great.. (Provided the usable battery hasn't been changed.)
The buffer in the id3 82 Kwh is around 9 Kwh.........
I got the suitcases down from the attic yesterday to see what would and wouldn't fit in the boot of the model 3. I was very impressed.
My last car had a cavernous boot and we were spoiled for luggage room when going away.
Anyway, the boot of the Model 3 took : 2 x large (check-in) suitcases and 3 x small suitcases (carry-on). One of the 3 smaller cases fit very easily in the storage area under the 'floor' of the boot.
This saves me the hassle of needing to buy a set of roof bard for a roofbox which is great.
Mike
What about the frunk?
First big spin yesterday. From Dublin to Galway and back.
Car is lovely on the road and love the cruise control.
Autopilot was very jittery on the m4, especially any time we came near a turn off,it would start to steer for the middle point of the off ramp and the current lane then pull back to the current lane.
Admittedly the lines on the road need new paint in places but is this others experience of AP?
![Photo of [Deleted User]](https://wc.vanillicon.com/v2/c35d4ce8a12792ca13fb381f4727ac6f.svg)
