Some magnetic aids in the milking parlour, first is an earth magnet for a welder, bolted to a threaded connector that's welded to pipe iron, magnet is so strong it has to be slid off. Second, I saw the magnetic blanks online, but at €30 for three I decided just to modify my own. Hot glue was used to fill the inside and a rawlplug set into it, magnet is strong, power hose won't knock it off.
Putting the post driver on the front using the frame of the bale spike, post driver can still be used on the front or back of tractor
I like to re use fence insulator eggs, the wire on one end was perfect but usually it’s a tough job to undo high tensile wire from an egg with a fencing pliers or vice grip etc. Had a brain wave this time and used the cordless angle grinder. It will be going in the fencing bucket in future.
You could cut the wire about 5 inches away from the egg, keep it and next time you want to use it have a wire wrapped around a strainer and just use a gripple grapple to join onto it and tension the wire. Saves having to rewrap wire around the insulator again. Won't work in every situation. 8 inch bolt cutter just as handy and has no batteries.
Retractable clothes line bought on amazon for less than a tenner. Used with a gatebreaker to fence off gaps/portions of a yard. Been used for over two years. Only suitable for quiet stock.
I'd been thinking of a similar system, that would come in handy. Thanks
Did anyone get the plasma cutter in Lidl?
No, but got the one that has the compressor inside it, only. The one in lidl requires a compressor, but has pilot arc torch. I will probably by the pilot arc torch from lidl germany as it seems a good job.
If your tractor won't start and you blame the battery and buy a new battery.
And she'll start after it goes in. And won't after. And then you blame the starter and buy a new starter.
And when you put it in and it still won't start. ( All this time pre new battery starting on jump leads. )
And you're still stumped.
Check the cables from the battery and give them a little jig or have someone on the ground while you're on the key give them a jig.
I cut the end off the power cable stripped the sheath. Cut a copper pipe to length of the battery connector, then cut lengthways again. Split it open. Put the cable in and clamped it several times with a vice grips to fit in the connector. Put it in the connector, tightened up. On the battery. Turn the key and in a millisecond the tractor starts.
New tractor. Better than I ever had since I bought her. The previous owner or garage man had tape on half the cable to fit into the connector. So it was already half a connection.
Pic before I slid in the copper pipe, cable combo.
Is that a ford 10 series with AP cab?
40 series with I haven't a clue.😅
You can tell all that from a battery cable? Wow.
Reminds me of Fr Jack and the sound of the wine bottles
We had similar with a TM155.
Every now and then it would nt turn the starter at all
Wiggle the wires a bit and off it would go , no issues for weeks.
It happened me one day and i found a similar bad connection .
Cut a small piece of tin about 10mm by 25mm, screwed back both screws on the battery clamp, slid in the tin on top of the wire and tightened the screws , so the tin squeezed the wire in the clamp. . 3 years on , still going strong
Your fix is a little bit tastier though
Not just battery connections, but you'd be amazed the amount of problems caused by bad earth connections.
A jubilee clip will usually fit perfect into the battery clap....cut off the excess
Mounting points for front linkage/loader brackets are ford, paint is ford blue. Reason I asked is because if it was a 10 series, the bolts are way too long and could short off the metal bonnet as you're driving.
What else would an armchair farmer be at.
Oops
What model is your Zetor and how do you find it? Might have to swap our loader tractor in the next 12 months as it is getting a bit.
Nice big table on that log splitter, the one thing that bugs me about mine is the small one, I keep meaning to do something about it.
It's a 100hsx, I only put 100hrs/ yr on it so couldn't really recommend it. It's the one I like least of all the Zetors I have had. I've had Crystals since the seventies and never had much problems, My previous one was a proxima 9641 and only changed it because it hadn't a shuttle and my left knee was giving a lot of hassle, The 9641 never gave any trouble and look to be value on done deal now.
The knee never gave any trouble since I got rid of 90% of my sheep either........ says it all really
Yea, it was only lluck that I bought that one, I didn't realise the advantage of the wide table at the time
Quick tip - get the height of the table set to suit your height. It looks a bit low to me. I set mine at about 1.0m and I can work it all day without back trouble...... and I get a lot of back trouble.
And the way to measure it. Stand facing the table, hold your elbow by your side, hold out your forearm, turn hand down at the wrist. At your fingertips is your working height
Sounds very high for that job, most of the blocks are 10 -12 inches, so the working height would be 10inches higher than the table as you'd be holding the top of the block.
Probably is too, I remembered it for measuring up for kitchen worktops.
What breed of splitter is it?
https://www.donedeal.ie/view/29421746
Log splitter
Looks like a Carroll Engineering. They make some good quality stuff.
Yea, it's a Carroll, it's very well made.
I cut down two big trees in February, and then two more fell so if I never see a chain saw again it'll be too soon
. With the ash dieback they don't even need a storm to knock them
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