@_Brian Did that end up as an insurance job? Can you say what was the problem? That would have been a sickening sight for whoever found it.
Got a double gate made. Hanging a double gate is a tricky little job.
Nice 👍
Honestly we were bricking it going out.
However, the farmer had sorted the power supply to the cubicle shed where we were hanging the hydraulic unit. When pulling the cable it snagged on a sheet of galvanise and stripped causing a rouge live. Was very lucky no human was killed.
really nice job there.
Beautiful gate.
Was around a lot of farms this year, the wiring standard in some places is horrific.
Even in places that were left to a good standard by installers quickly become hazards by farmers who damage/ remove covers or damage ducting and don't repair or make "temporary" shoddy repairs like wedging contactors closed.
Was called out to one place that looked fairly decent, but ducting took a belt and end caps disappeared, rodents had completely striped several meters of cabling before a short was actually made, they must have been only nibbling at night when milking machine was off.
That's why I always use conduit and glands now that I'm doing most of the electrical work here. I've got one piece of hash work to sort and I'm not sure whether to sleeve it or try to reroute it.
I'd bet that farmer was truly sickened - pull the cable to save a few quid and then kill 16 cows. Would take a while to recover from that.
Even the old shed I'm doing here has the old style screw in fuses with no MCB's. I must get someone in to put a proper box with MCBs RCDs etc.
I'm fairly confident yours is kept right, but poorly maintained conduit is worse than no conduit, rodents that make their way into conduit through a missing end cap or damaged covers will wreck havock as they chew more on cables in the enclosed space. Mice in particular can fit through the smallest holes and even squeeze through the 20mm round conduit. Obviously best to keep cables in conduits, but it needs to be sealed on every end.
It was a piece of work done before my 'promotion'. the sparks at the time used conduit on the straights and electricians gum to pack the corners. Awful looking hash. I'd like to reroute it but I'm not sure if there is sufficient cable to do so. I can see it being a **** load of work, but I'll need to stop putting it off and get it done.
My old tractor wouldn't start for a week now. The starter wiring was always dodgy. It goes tru a safety switch on the gearbox to stop you starting in gear. Last week turning the key and nothing happening.
I was looking at the wiring schematic yesterday and realised I had been jumping across the starter solenoid wrong all these years. ( The way I was shown as a kid). You do and you jerk the hell outta the starter. You just take a wire and short from the plus side of the solenoid and the smaller 3rd terminal on the solenoid. It starts lovely and smooth then, just like from the key.
Anyway after realising this I went about sorting the wiring. Big job as the steering wheel and dash has to come off. Lifted the dash a bit and now it's starting. Must be a loose wire. My inner voice says its grand sure its starting fine.
Very nice, but is it in your yard or further out on the land? Beware of it 'walking'!
Lovely job, when using those gate posts I drill a hole and use a threaded hanger on the bottom aswell, allows more adjustment.
Surprised at you Patsy, how have you not wrecked your starter or even just melted the terminals with that craic?
How do you know you are dealing with a rooter?
Half melted screw driver in the tool box from crossing the terminals to start the tractor. 😁
It's close by and not on its own facing the public road.
The concrete post comes with the top with a hole in it. Was thinking of drilling the bottom but there are 5 bars in it when making it. Then was thinking of using a spud stone but it had to be very accurate as one gate closes on the other. Ended up getting a bracket and had to cut and weld it to make it fit. Easier to make adjustments with the bracket option.
4 lengths in the posts here.
Slat lifter for one man band. Could be replicated easily enough.
Handy tip for anyone doing a lot of drilling. I use this paste and fill an old cattle syringe to apply it directly into the holes as I go. Works great. Take the syringe apart and fill it with a knife. The paste really lubricates the cutters and helps keep them cool too.
Seen something like above for lifting single slats over 20years ago.home made job, it was on car tyres though.
Never had singles here thankfully, worked at slurry jobs for years, some hoor they are to have to face into for mixing & then put them back, often in the darker time of evening
Any advantage over using a constant dab of lube oil from the can? Better performance from this?
On a related note, anyone find a flap disk on the grinder is useful for sharpening drill bits?
I made clamps that'd lift two slats at a time, and lifted them with the forks on the shear grab, speeded the job up hugely
Need a bench grinder to do it properly.
A weed licker I'd say withe the quad in the trailer. Have seen a few lads doing it.
I bought these Diamond Files in Lidl a few years back. They are great for sharpening drill bits. In fact I sharpened a 6mm bit just today. You'd be amazed how easy it is. Just follow the round of the bit end. No need even to put a flat on the tip.
Powerfix(R) Diamond File Set - Lidl — Ireland - Specials archive (kd2.org)
Are the electric drill bit sharpeners any use does anyone know. I've watched enough YouTube videos doing by hand but it's not sinking in, they usually end up worse!
I've a drawer full of them blunt n they're not getting any cheaper in the builders providers
I got one in Lidl one time. Think it does up to 10mm. Worth the money anyway. Must put it to use again.
If you're drilling metal of any real thickness bin them. Screwfix/Everyday welding/wholesale welding have some kits with 100 bits ( 10 x10mm/ 10x12mm/10x 13mm etc. that do well.
Well lads, probably posting this in the wrong thread but I reckon someone on here will have the info I'm looking for. I've sourced a lovely Ash plant for my dad and I'm thinking of turning it into a walking stick/Shillelagh for him for Christmas but I've no clue where to start apart from peeling the stick. Should I sand it before varnishing it. I presume all it should need is a couple of coats of varnish? Any tips or help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
