About €300 retail for the EPH hardware, fitter probably gets Trade discount on this. The only wiring is to substitute the receiver for your existing controller. Is the installer also getting the heating controls upgrade grant, assuming its still available.
Tado wireless two zone was about €149 during black friday from amazon.de, but Tado or Drayton don't have wireless HW cylinder stat. It's coming in at about €192 on amazon.uk. Drayton wiser 2 zone about €158. If you don't already have a cylinder stat, it's easy enough to get a mechanical one fitted on the cylinder to control the HW zone valve. Remote setting of HW temperature is not something you really need.
I was just quoted €675 to install the EPH Ember Wifi Enabled Heating Controls (New 2 Zone EPH Programmer, Wireless EPH Wall Stat, Wireless EPH Hot Water Cylinder Stat, & EPH Gateway)
Seems like a lot of money to spend when it looks like something like a Tado would do!
No, its the opposite. Fully pressed down is closed. If you push it down fully with a heavy weight, or bodge up a screw clamp, then it should go cold during hot flow. If it doesn't, then there's a faulty seal in the valve. The force required to fully depress to seal is not that great, just about bearable if you use your thumb. If it does seal with modest force, it may be that the valve body is a mechanically odd one that needs an adapter to properly close when using the TRV head.
Seem to be struggling to resolve. Tried all of the above but still water flowing to the rad. Am I correct when the button is pressed down then it is open?
Starting with a remote timer plug like this, https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01M5DYUEG/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_BNXPCYRN7J3XB6DTSS40
replace the mechanical timer with an ordinary plug and socket , insert this in the path.
You can get a more elaborate wired in version, with displays etc.
You might want something that has a manual override or boost button, something an old person could press for an hour of extra boiler firing, rather than having to fiddle with an app. A single zone hive stat is still a better option, the wireles battery stat can be put anywhere, set to a comfortable temperature and ignored. The receiver will replace the old timer, it has a single boost button for manual use, while you can set up a timed schedule on the app.
Hey guys
im looking to automate my mothers heating, she currently has a 24hr timer clock similar to this
No zone's nothing fancy, current method of operation is constant on or constant off :P id simply like to be able to turn this on or off remotely or set a timer for her remotely ? No zones, no thermostat. Yes i know this is much better but shes 75 lads, there is no talking to a 75 year old mammy!
is there a simple way of doing this without using a hive or the likes?
But get the multi room kit, you get 2 TRVs for £55 extra over the CH/HW starter kit. You'll easily sell this part on its own, it's €178 new in Screwfix. Sell for €120+, keep the TRV's.
TRVs were €48 in Screwfix Ireland, equivalent to £39.35 from UK, but out of stock here.
not great prices for Wiser TRV. They were £40, now they're £50 (no doubt to be "reduced" to 40 in a few days)
An electrician or a competent DIYer, in both cases there's just 5 wires to be connected inside the receiver box that replaces the EPH controller. Live, Neutral and Earth mains in, and two switched live out wires to the respective CH and HW zone valves. If you loosen the case screw and pop the EPH controller off its wiring backplate, take a photo, it's very easy to see which wire is which, and how they are mapped to the terminals of the replacement controller. I've posted the Tado and Drayton wiring here many times . Drayton 1 zone CH plus HW control is only £97 with Irish vat on Amazon this minute, quite a bargain. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B075GRPZQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_dl_NNFYC0QGA6T0F90SC49E
Tado around £139 for wireless starter kit including a stand for the stat (or wall mounted if preferred)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B098BKHT3R/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_dl_MM6A937Q391C9478QKJN?psc=1
OK thanks for that. Would I need an electrician and/or plumber to do this?
Yes, replace that box with either the Drayton wiser Kit 2 CH and HW controller, with wireless stat, or the Tado wireless starter kit, CH and HW control and also wireless wall stat (or on a table stand). Great value black friday prices atm.
hi, looking for some advice. A few years ago I updated my heating in the house and had a thermostat in the landing. I would love the option to be able to turn on/off the heating and water from my phone, instead of going out the utility room to advance. Anyone know if there's any simple/cheap solution for this?
Firstly. Swap the TRV head just to make sure it works on a different valve. If that valve now stays open, then there's a problem with the TRV head. If it remains on the same valve, it can only mean that the TRV valve body is sticking open, or there is some thing blocking the valve seat from fully closing the flow.
Take off the TRV head, spray some wd40 onto the valve pin and work it up and down to make sure it moves freely without sticking, grinding internally or needing excessive force. Do this while there is hot flow to help dislodge possible grit. If you can find an old TRV valve blanking cap which can be screwed on and down onto the pin, try this to see if you can seal off the rad when there is hot flow. Also check that this TRV valve is identical to the others that work fine, same thread depth and pin height.
If the timer fires the boiler with both valves closed, then it would be wired direct. If you have to open either valve for the boiler to fire, timer on, then the valve relays are firing the boiler. My guess is its wired direct, which would be a normal enough so you could use the boiler for HW only during the summer by turning down both stats.
Hi, thanks for the answer, yes the CH does heat the water but i don’t have separate control of it. At the moment the zone valve motors are actually disconnected from the valves as the room thermostats stopped working a couple of years back and I just manually opened them and just use the timer on and off. I want to reinstate the room thermostats. The fact that I can use the heating without the thermostats and motors I assume means that the timer is wired directly to fire the boiler?
My chance my arm here...have a Drayton Wiser system installed. Everything is working great. Have left two radiators without any smart TRV or any TRV.
Anyway one radiator for some reason heats if you boost any of the radiators. No idea why it happens. Any idea?
It also says to recalibrate to hold to - sign for 5 seconds but that doesn't seem to work. Maybe someone else has installed and seen similar isse
A Tado wired starter kit, plus an extra wired stat, straight swap for your wall stats, turn the old wall timer to fully on (assuming it's not directly wired to fire the boiler, but just sends timed live to the stats, from there to the zone valves, then from their relays to fire the boiler). You're certain the boiler doesn't heat HW, only radiators?
A type of gravity HW heating is often implemented with a single mechanical timer. This fires the boiler, which only heats HW, until the stats are turned up bringing in the CH zone valves.
Hi all, I’ve been thinking of doing this for a year and I am thinking now is the time with the current discounts but definitely need some guidance. It’s an oil burner and I don’t have separate hot water control. I have an immersion but don’t need smart control of that. I currently have an old Flash Immermat timer and two wired thermostats one in the kitchen and one in the master bedroom so a zone for upstairs and a zone for downstairs. I’d like to keep the existing zones but also add smart trv’s to 4 other rooms in an old part of the house to add another “zone” as this part of the house is not as well insulated and when this part of the house is cold the master bedroom is uncomfortably hot. I’ve been thinking of Tado but am open to suggestions. What would people recommend for my set up? Thanks in advance.
thanks Deezell - i think i need to get the valves checked and go from there.
I think I'll get a tradesman. But not the luddite that came to change one of the valves last year!
Post the pictures. It sounds also like you may have some zone valves stuck open. You'll have to establish that your three CH zones lus HW zone were independent with the old stats. The boiler should be fired by a combination of live outputs from the relays built into the zone valves, not from the timed lives from the controller/wall stats, as cross connection of these just means one zone will open the others valves. You will have to ensure your system was operating correctly in S plan mode with the existing stats. It's not rocket science, but does require tradesmen with plumbing logic / wiring skills to understand and implement correctly.
thanks Deezell - to clarify, I've only one Tado zone so far - the plan was to put in 3 - but i wanted to get this issue sorted before buying and installing the next 2 wired tados.
I suspect the issue was there prior to the Tado being installed - could it be an issue with the motorised zone valves rather than the thermostats?
(i took photos of the the pre-wiring and post wiring of the tado that i could post if you wouldn't mind taking a look)
I've looked back there to your earlier posts. You replaced three wired wall stats with three wired tados. Following this you should have set your old 4 zone timer (3CH plus HW) to always on for the three CH zones, as each Tado wired stat will take care of both timing and temperature control via the app. If your Timer controller had only a single timed output to all 3 zone stats, its still the same, you need always on live to the Com connection of each of the Tado wired stats, which will Time/Temperature control their respective zone valves.
Check that the Tados are wired correctly, that the Live in and Switched live out back to the Zone valves are connected to the Common (Com) and Normally Open (NO) terminals of each Tado. Otherwise, the Tado will be turning on that zone when it should be off.
Finally, check that each stat is a distinct zone on the App, and is configured to use itself as the switching zone device for the zone, and not the primary stat on the list. This can happen in a single zoned system where you have additional stats to measure temperatures in other areas, so the extra stats are just sensors for the main stat, and fire the boiler through it's relay. In Settings/Rooms and Devices/ there is a list of rooms or zones, with the stat for each one listed under a user defined room name. To the right of this name a right facing arrow opens a sub menu for that device, and at the bottom is an entry for Zone Controller. Check that the RU.... serial no. on this is the same as the Room stat, other wise calls for heat from one stat are actually triggering a different stat.
There are other complex loops that can arise if a wall stat is wired back to the controller with both NO and NC terminals used, in order to set up a priority system, (e.g, HW call temporarily overrides some or all CH zones). This would have been apparent when swapping the wired Tado for the older wall stats, but I'm assuming they were just 2 wire installations.
not sure yet if it's related to installing the wired tado thermostat, and it could have been happening before I installed the tado, but having issues with the zones that ye may be able to advise on?
3 Zones
Zone 1 = Living Area with Tado thermostat
Zone 2 = Downstairs bedrooms
Zone 3 = Upstairs Bedrooms
If heating is on in Zone 1, heating in the other 2 zones won't come on until we turn off the tado zone at the control unit.
however, if 2 is on, 3 won't come on at the same time.
sometimes, if 3 is on, 2 will work. But if 2 is on first, 3 won't
and variations of the same.
Is this something that possibly needs a professional to check?
You should replace your Tado TRV heads with the manual ones, and bring your Tado TRVs with you. If its too much bother to take the wired in stat, assuming you don't have a wireless connected one to the extention kit or HW control, you will only need another Tado Wired starter kit for the new house. Its just a wired wall digital stat as far as the plumber is concerned, so if there is a manual wall stat in the new house, it replaces it. Tado TRV's will go straight onto the radiators if they already have manual TRV heads in them. It's straightforward to pair to the Bridge, and will run in manual mode until you get a router up and running. If you take your existing Tado trvs with you, unpair them on the app, so they can be connected to a new Tado stat. If you leave the Tado stat behind, you will have to deregister it from your Tado Account so that the new owner can open a Tado account and add it to his.
When my son moved house this year, he left his Tado stat, as the new house had Heatmiser Neo installed. The Tado was working away as a manual wall stat once his router and broadband were disconnected, but we should have taken it as the new owners didn't make any effort to reconnect it and have the registration handed over, though it was offered. Probably in a drawer now.
I've had a Tado with TRV's in each room for the last two years or so - it is great. I'm moving house so wondering if there is anything better out these days (for a combi boiler so just one zone)?
Also I see there is a wireless Tado now available - how easy is this to self-install (with the TRVs too)? My existing setup was installed by a plumber, but he will only install equipment he supplies which rules out Black Friday deals etc
Sounds like the stat is wired in parallel with the timed live for that zone, so either will trigger the zone valve and hence the boiler. It could also be miswiring of the zone valve relays. Sparks required with a clear knowledge of S-plan wiring, but in a sentence, its;
Live in to Timer to Zone output to Stat to Zone Valve, where a permanent Live is switched by the internal Zone valve relay, and only these zone lives are conjoined and sent to fire the boiler. No Live from a stat or timer should go to the boiler switched live in.
Friend had new zone valves installed in his house… when he bit boost on the programmer the heating came on and was supposed to go off an hour later. He said he came home a couple of hours later and it was still on even though the programmer boost lights had switched off again.
when he turned the room stat down it seemed to switch off,
anyone any ideas?
1. A tado wired thermostat will sit nicely on the location of your current timer. It will switch your boiler on and off, and its a thermostat, so if the kitchen is representative of general house temperature, you can set a time and temperature schedule, and operate it remotely.
2. Your immersion requires a much higher current than a CH controller can deliver, as they are designed to operate boilers and/or motorised valves, not water heating elements. The Tado extension kit supplies a second relay to enable hot water control from a boiler. To use this to swith an immersion element would require an additional heavy current relay switch operated by the ext. kit. The extension kit could be wired beside the existing immersion switch, and the additional relay also, so no need to run wires
I’ve been trying to decipher if the comments above are the same as what I have, and if the same advice applies, but hoping you guys can save me the embarrassment and help me out.
I have oil central heating with a boiler controlled by the on/off/timer located in my kitchen (pic below), and an immersion heater for the water, controlled by the sink/bath-on/off switch located beside the hot water cylinder in my hot press (pic also below).
I would initially like to simply be able to switch the central heating on/off or set it on a timer remotely (and check if it was left on accidentally after we leave the house), with the eventual plan to add a trv to each radiator when funds allow. I would also like to be able to do the same with the immersion, either through the same system or not, I’m not fussy.
I’ve looked at the tado system and it appears to do everything I am asking for, with the expandable trv option, however I have a couple of questions:
That's what I thought, there's an active element in the controller that requires power, so that an overheat sensor can switch it off automatically most likely. Sone electric blankets back in the 80s were lethal, standards were lower, then with grey imports you wouldn't know where it came from.
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