Yes, it upgrades the cpu from the 68000(7MHz) to a 68EC020 running at 33MHz. It's also got an 68882 FPU in there along with 9.5MB of Fast RAM. Nice little upgrade for gaming with WHDLoad and general workbench stuff. I've got a 1MB trapdoor upgrade in there as well with clock and running everything from SD card.
It's a great little setup for running the stuff i mostly do on all my Amiga's. For heavier stuff I'd use my A1200 or A4000, but i don't really have much of a need to power them up these days.
Lovely Steve, what's that Furia board? Some type of accelerator?
I swapped in the Amiga 600 hard membrane I posted in the Gets thread yesterday. It's definitely a quality bit of kit, with the weakest part being the ribbon cable(just like on the old membrane). But at least with this design if the cable ever gets damaged or wears out its a quick and cheap common replacement(not like the old membrane).
All done.
I eventually got around to 3D printing one of these floppy disk cleaning helper tools. I've come across a load of Amiga disks that wont read on anything, this will help clean them up(along with some isopropyl alcohol and cotton buds). A very simple design that I highly recommend.
I edited the grip tool a little from the source as I like the grip, but not how he designed the slots. Takes about 40-60 mins to print everything.
Link for anyone who needs it: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4978640
Wife took the baby out visiting, so I got to solder the PSU bits together and stick them in my Jpn Dreamcast. I also put in a battery holder and a replacement fan.
Putting the fan in was SUCH a pain on this DC. It's a VA0, so I needed to literally take the main board out and flip it to unscrew the original fan! Next up I need to decide on what ODE to get.
Ah, now I'm doubting that assertion - your indeed right, it is a JAP model.
Maybe that Z80 line was causing the original bios to freeze when it couldn't reset it.
The trace was broken a few cm from the cart slot so I don't think did the damage, just looked like corrosion on one trace. Previous owner, small drop of pop and then over time it just got eaten away
That's weird about my old AES! It was a Jap model that I bought from a seller in Japan.
Delighted you got it working. I'd say I must have broken a trace using that MVS to AES converter thingy.
Belated update on this Neo Geo AES.
I picked up a beefier PSU (adapted to centre negative) to power supply as when I moved away from the JAMMA adapter board the PSUs I had couldn't also support the 161in1 cart I had. This is a 5V very early model and doesn’t cope well with the extra loads as mentioned before.
Unfortunately a colour then dropped out, I already had a recap kit coming. When installing that one of the colour paths was indeed broken so patched and all is well.
I got a second AES from O1s1n which had some problems, wouldn’t boot the only original cart he (then I) had, and the 161in1 cart would fail to boot. Found a broken trace to the Z80 and discovered the board itself was a EUR console and the origin cart was JPN so wouldn’t boot with the original bios ;)
Trace to Z80 fixed (audio only right?) and UniBIOS installed. Boom, working treat. Need to fix a first gen MVS board which was a donor for some video ram, hopefully Aliexpress delivers soon.
My precious launch JPN Saturn is starting to show problems. I've only owned it a few months :(
I think it's power cap related. If it's been off overnight and I press the power button it lights up but there's no image. If I toggle the switch, it boots.
Via a scaler, you can see loads of noise in the image on the home and Action Replay screens which goes away after it's warmed up! I plugged another Saturn into the scaler and it's grand. The noise doesn't really show on a CRT.
I've tried with two step-downs. My Maplins special I use for all my retro, and the industrial one I got for my arcade cabinet.
So, should I replace the PSU with a modern equivalent, since it's a 100V or replace the caps on it?
👀.
Always beware of discolouration of the tip.
Seek the advice of a professional, especially if it is accompanied by a crusty discharge that also discolours the immediate surroundings
Absolutely fantastic 👏 bravo
The remote itself is 36 years old and I reckon those batteries must be in it about 20 of those years. Apart from a little bit of discolouration on the tip of the positive side, there's zero corrosion and they actually look like they're new! Hard to believe.
Unfortunately the tape deck itself won't play tapes. It powers on, the coal bunker remote will cycle through all the channels, you can insert and eject tapes, but the drum doesn't spin or do anything.
I just discovered yesterday that Liam Hearns is still running Town Hall Electric at the top of Bray mainstreet. Absolutely amazed by that, it must now be one of the longest running shops in Bray. To put it in perspective, we used to buy C64 tapes from him in there.
Might drop this player into him and see what he can do :D
Black Diamond batteries and all :D
Did a hilarious repair this evening.
So a few months back I picked up a Mitsubishi hs-337 VCR from 1985, the same model as I had when I was a kid.
Unfortunately it didn't come with a remote.
My mam was cleaning out the coal bunker this evening and found the remote from our original one. Absolutely knackared but I decided to take it from her and see what condition it was in.
Thing must have been sitting out there for 20 years. There were still batteries inside when I opened it up, so I thought it was a goner.
So I decided to see if I could salvage it for the craic this evening. Spent the last hour with it in pieces cleaning every minute piece of corrosion.
Dried it off, put it back together and... it works!! haha, can't believe it.
Howdy folks!
So... one of the positives for me over Lockdown has been the fact that I have had the extra time to practice my electronics repair skills. I've been posting about it a fair bit over on Instagram so much so that the maker of one of the crimper tools that I was using reached out and offered me a free soldering and hot air station worth over £100 just to share it out and give it a good review on Insta / Amazon etc!
I never really thought I'd have the skills do to all of this but I've proved myself wrong... I've even gotten the hang of making my own dupont cables now so I don't need to keep buying adapters and cables from random Ebay sellers.
Aaaaanyway... I just wanted to show off something that I did last night. So I ordered a replacement transparent shell for my Sega Dreamcast a little while ago and replaced the LED on the power board from red to blue as I always thought that the blue light would suit the EU Dreamcast a little better.
Last night though I tapped the 12v line on my DreamPSU in order to power up a strip of white LEDs and this is the outcome...
What do you folks think?
I bought an Neo Geo AES which was converted to JAMMA in the past - looks like it was a pro conversion, the JAMMA board it a little rough with some traces not made correctly so patched. Maybe at a time which AES wasn't worth much but MVS was still going strong in the Arcades. The case at least has a sub 4k serial number which suggests it was an earlier unit and the mainboard backs this up a little.
It looked rather sorry for itself;
Even more so internally
It's an early NEO-AES board. It had a special BIOS chip which I take it worked with the JAMMA board and its tapoff points on the board to time limit play depending on credits. The unit wasn't operating as is so I removed all the extra cabling, random patch wires and caps on the bottom of the board and worked to fix the cut traces.
I still used the JAMMA board for video/power for now (until the PSU/Video cables arrive) and popped in a standard BIOS. The self-test showed RAM issues and from inspecting the board both the Fast VRAM and Palette RAM had been replaced/bodged in the past so I removed those, socketed them and threw in Sony replacements and BOOM! Working!
UniBIOS4 burned to an EPROM and a AES 161-in-1 with the 'PICKnMIX' feature from the UniBIOS and it is working a treat - tbh, I didn't think I would get it working.
I've a cap kit on route as it seems the factory caps on the RGB circuit aren't correct.
Only issues now
Looks like Gunblade aka Grant on UKVAC isn't accepting any work from outside UK now, he has been stung with customs charges a few times.
o1s1n wrote: » Oh yeah I remember contacting those PSRA lads a few years ago and they said they'd happily do a BVM. Might be a cost thing, they could be (wrongly!) assuming I've a fortune to spend on it because it's a studio monitor, Apple II monitor might not be worth their while. I don't think you'll have much luck with gunblade/grantspain, he only really does arcade monitors. Doesn't hurt to ask though! If you've soldering skills yourself then the guy who runs this website is really nice and will put a cap kit together for you. I see he already has some apple kits up at the moment:https://console5.com/store/catalogsearch/result/?q=apple If you need a lend of a discharging wand and you're around Dublin, let me know.
Burzum wrote: » Got in touch with https://www.psra.ie/monitors/crt-monitors/ sadly it does not seem they can service an apple IIe monitor
Colonel Panic wrote: » I think it was here that this crowd were mentioned too https://www.psra.ie/monitors/crt-monitors/ I've got it bookmarked for those "just in case" events.
eddhorse wrote: » Yeah ive sent a few to Grant aka Gunblade on UKVAC forums. Not sure on Brexit costs now for shipping etc but it was around €100 to fix
Burzum wrote: » Does anyone here know who I can reach out to, to maybe work on a crt monitor, I have never tried working on/repairing one and am a little wary of trying incase I mess up and ruin the thing.
