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Labour Saving and General Guntering

emaherx

How about using this thread to show off our engineering skills (or lack of!)
A lot of us have home made or improvised labour saving tools / implements lying around. Similar to stuff in Farmers Journal labour saving compettions. (without the prize money:p).

Maybe we could use this thread to share interesting ideas and discuss improvements.

I don't have any pictures at the moment of my own but I will take some at the weekend if not before.

My own projects include:
Quick hitch for front loader (fairly rough but works), designed to fit Trima implements onto MF loader.
Adapter to fit bale lifter onto front loader.
Various other loader attachments spikes etc.

Current project is a wrapped bale transporter being built out of remains of an old Muck Spreader. (only just started, currently just an axle and draw bar).

Their maybe other stuff around too, I'll have to have a look.

So what are peoples opinions, is this a good idea for a thread?

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148multi

timple23 wrote: »

Anyone able to guesstimate how much a 200l blue barrel would weigh filled with concrete. 55cm diameter, 88 cm high.

1m3 is about 2.5 ton

Kevhog1988

148multi wrote: »

1m3 is about 2.5 ton

2362.7kg per tonne and 0.18 volume in his barrell

Dinzee Conlee

Kevhog1988 wrote: »

2362.7kg per tonne and 0.18 volume in his barrell

Oh, don't be challenging the resident QS ha Kev

:D:D

Anto_Meath

Electric fence issue.
Why would a mains powered electric fence have a reading of over 4 volts on the earthing rod?

emaherx

Anto_Meath wrote: »

Electric fence issue.
Why would a mains powered electric fence have a reading of over 4 volts on the earthing rod?

Poor earthing, very dry soil.

But 4 volts is not very high to be fair

https://www.electricfence-online.co.uk/blogs/blogs/how-to-improve-the-earthing-of-your-electric-fenci/

According to this guide voltage below 300V is acceptable on the earth rod when the fence is completely shorted to ground.

390kid

Was hoping I might get some advice on this thread to fix this or how would I go about it?

roosterman71

390kid wrote: »

Was hoping I might get some advice on this thread to fix this or how would I go about it?

Cut it all away. Get a new piece and weld a piece on the bottom. Bolt that to the ground and weld it at the top to the bar

Aravo

timple23 wrote: »

Anyone able to guesstimate how much a 200l blue barrel would weigh filled with concrete. 55cm diameter, 88 cm high.

Vol of cylinder is pie x r squared x h x wt of conc per cublc metre
3.17*.275*.275*.88*2.44 = 500kg approx

richie123

These lads can wreck your head falling off.
I use a jubilee clip keeps it tight and no leaks.

zetecescort

emaherx wrote: »

I think someone may have posted similar before but I couldn't find it. My McHale wrapper clock won't stick to the window anymore, so here is a cheap and cheerful solution.

Silverline Tile Drilling Jig, available for less than €10, I've seen these on DoneDeal being sold as window mounts for €30 which is a bit of a mark up.

and for those with older tractors and have the steel of the cab exposed you can modify the magnets that come with those pre wired sets of trailer lights

Magnetic-Rear-Tail-LED-Trailer-Caravan-Lightboard-Light.jpg

Magnetic-Rear-Tail-LED-Trailer-Caravan-Lightboard-Light.jpg

timple23

zetecescort wrote: »

and for those with older tractors and have the steel of the cab exposed you can modify the magnets that come with those pre wired sets of trailer lights

If you don't have those spare just buy a magnetic earth clamp for a welder.

41rImaRcdOL._AC_.jpg

kk.man

My lely needed a pto cover so I got a drainage pipe.

Figerty

I had a cracked weld on the M5 35. Two of the studs on the cylinder had worn and the nuts loosened under the seat and I think that cracked the casting. You can see two lines.
So to weld up,, numerous youtube videos,, and advice from a master welder I know helped.
The broken corner made it easier as the weld couldn't run. It's easier to weld good cast iron that bad cast iron so that made it easier.
The advice was to use

Clean fully and cut a vee. I chose not to go all the way through as I haven't welded cast successfully before.

good quality cast rods

25mm short welds to let stop the heat causing issues.

Tap, Tap Tap, the weld with a slag chiping hammer to nornalise the weld stresses.

I bought a new square to get a straight edge and have spent time flatenning it out with a flapper wheel, then a file and I'll use a flat stone

I'll use gasket maker to hopefully pick up any gap, and use a torque wrench, and hope it won't crack.

Figerty

Top weld tidied up.
I'll show the bottom face when fully tidied up.
Straight edge helps but I have draw filed it nicely so it should be ok.
There was a second crack that I bridged with a weld but didn't goo deep as it's going to be in compression.

timple23

What type welder do you use for cast? Would a local welding man/fabricator be able to weld cast? Have a small job I might see if I can get someone to do.

Figerty

timple23 wrote: »

What type welder do you use for cast? Would a local welding man/fabricator be able to weld cast? Have a small job I might see if I can get someone to do.

Hi timple23. I have a manual arc welder. Basic welder that does from 2.5mm to 5mm rods. It must be 20 years old. Artika was the brand name.

I used 3.2 rod as that was all that was in the Tractor factors. But they were good rods. They sell single rods and it was a new box opened which mean the rods were dry and fresh.

A local welder should be able to weld cast,, but.. .it depends on the cast iron quality and type,, the quality of the rod.. and the person doing the welding.. I was was the weak link in that! I'm no expert welder. That' said, I did also replace the nose on the mini dipper arm last week and it came out well. I'll post some photos of that later as it didn't fall off yet!

tellmeabit

Figerty wrote: »

Hi timple23. I have a manual arc welder. Basic welder that does from 2.5mm to 5mm rods. It must be 20 years old. Artika was the brand name.

I used 3.2 rod as that was all that was in the Tractor factors. But they were good rods. They sell single rods and it was a new box opened which mean the rods were dry and fresh.

A local welder should be able to weld cast,, but.. .it depends on the cast iron quality and type,, the quality of the rod.. and the person doing the welding.. I was was the weak link in that! I'm no expert welder. That' said, I did also replace the nose on the mini dipper arm last week and it came out well. I'll post some photos of that later as it didn't fall off yet!

I have a lift cylinder on a ford 3000 with a chunk broken off, do you think it would be possible to weld up? Finding it very difficult to get a replacement.

Figerty

tellmeabit wrote: »

I have a lift cylinder on a ford 3000 with a chunk broken off, do you think it would be possible to weld up? Finding it very difficult to get a replacement.

Can you put up a picture of it.?

patsy_mccabe

Not to be a doomsayer but, welding cast is very difficult. I worked in a place once where we got a cast part welded. It broke soon again after. The guy that welded it was a good welder, by all accounts, so I wouldn't be too hopeful with welding cast parts.

Figerty

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Not to be a doomsayer but, welding cast is very difficult. I worked in a place once where we got a cast part welded. It broke soon again after. The guy that welded it was a good welder, by all accounts, so I wouldn't be too hopeful with welding cast parts.

I agree Patsy.. I'm still suprised this is holding. I used the tractor a long while after this part broke off and it was fine, so I'm hoping the weld will add strength and keep the rain out.

If it was a structural of working part I'd be very reluctant to trust cast welding.

The welder I got advice from said the quality of the cast was key. So a 1960s MF35 is likely to be better than recent work, or some bolier.

Nekarsulm

The trouble with cast iron is that if it cools quickly, it cracks all around the repair.
For parts like that cover, it needs to be heated upto near red heat before welding, and cooled very slowly to let all the stresses work their way out.
I've read that the best method is to heat up the entire piece in a coal fire, weld it, then return to the fire, bank up with more coal and let the fire go out slowly over 12 hours.....

tellmeabit

Figerty wrote: »

Can you put up a picture of it.?

The Nutty M

tellmeabit wrote: »

a

To me,that's a new barrell jobbie. More hassle than its worth.

tellmeabit

The Nutty M wrote: »

To me,that's a new barrell jobbie. More hassle than its worth.

If I can find one 2nd hand I'll go with that but like hens teeth so far

timple23

tellmeabit wrote: »

If I can find one 2nd hand I'll go with that but like hens teeth so far

https://www.donedeal.ie/tractors-for-sale/breaking-ford-4000/25490738

Would a 4000 have the same one?

patsy_mccabe

tellmeabit wrote: »

I have a lift cylinder on a ford 3000 with a chunk broken off, do you think it would be possible to weld up? Finding it very difficult to get a replacement.

Would you try these guys? If they can't help. they might point you in the right direction.

https://burnsideautocyl.com/custom-hydraulic-cylinders/

Figerty

Agriline do one, not cheap.

https://agrilineproducts.com/ford-fordson/1000-series/3000?category=hydraulics-228

They looks the same on Agriline for the 3000 and 4000, but that may only be a stock image. Part code is the same though.It says out of stock though.
What you have is not worth fixing as the whole thing has be rebored and a cylinder matching.

It's too high risk to weld, that cylinder keeps the arms up.. you can't risk that breaking again.

Figerty

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Would you try these guys? If they can't help. they might point you in the right direction.

https://burnsideautocyl.com/custom-hydraulic-cylinders/

the make Hydraulic Cylinders. Very different to this.

tellmeabit

timple23 wrote: »

https://www.donedeal.ie/tractors-for-sale/breaking-ford-4000/25490738

Would a 4000 have the same one?

Cool thanks will buzz in morning. Ya think they the same

tellmeabit

Figerty wrote: »

Agriline do one, not cheap.

https://agrilineproducts.com/ford-fordson/1000-series/3000?category=hydraulics-228

They looks the same on Agriline for the 3000 and 4000, but that may only be a stock image. Part code is the same though.It says out of stock though.
What you have is not worth fixing as the whole thing has be rebored and a cylinder matching.

It's too high risk to weld, that cylinder keeps the arms up.. you can't risk that breaking again.

Ya I've seen that. I've tried a few places for new cost and it's a bit steep, but if I had to in the end I would I suppose. I made contact with a guy in UK who is checking out a 2nd hand one in the morning. Could get the whole lift cover off him including cylinder. For price if the new cylinder.
Few places I spoke to say very hard to get parts for back end of them now. Most rotten or gone abroad.
It a tractor that we've had a fist while and I just starting to work in cleaning it up and get it functioning again. Handy to do the but of fert etc around the place.