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The Great Big Lawnmower Thread

aoifski

I'd appreciate some advice about lawns and lawn mowers. We have about 1/4 -1/3 an acre of lawn. Top soil was put down when we moved in about 4 years ago, not the best stuff - quite stoney. We raked but did not rotovate it at the time, and then rolled and then sowed a lawn.

It's ok - the surface is a bit rough still and not flat. We have a petrol rotary at the moment and it takes quite a while to cut all this grass. And it grows like wildfire in the spring/summer.

We want to buy new rideon mower and I am all for buying a tractor mower to spin around the lawn in as little time as possible.

My husband has gotten it in his head somehow that he wants this manicured lawn, and wants to buy a petrol powered cylinder mower - the ones used for cricket and golf greens! Believe me our lawn and surface is far from this!

Questions:

To get even surface with manicured lawn would we have to rotovate and completely redo the surface/soil and resow?
Presumably a cylinder mower (self propelled) is totally unsuitable for what we have right now?
Any tractor mower recommendations for a nice cut which will appease my husband?!

Thanks in advance!

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the goon

Hi all,

My ears aren't the greatest with tenitis so find my petrol lawnmower hard these days. I'm hoping to get a manual lawnmower to do intermittent cuts and was wondering if anyone has a recommendation for sub €150?

Appreciate it.

deezell

the goon wrote: »

Hi all,

My ears aren't the greatest with tenitis so find my petrol lawnmower hard these days. I'm hoping to get a manual lawnmower to do intermittent cuts and was wondering if anyone has a recommendation for sub €150?

Appreciate it.

Or just get these?

https://www.safetydirect.ie/pel510a.html

tDw6u1bj

deezell wrote: »

Or just get these?

https://www.safetydirect.ie/pel510a.html

Yup, 2 things to add.

1. Go for the more expensive ones (pelator 3), it's a big step up for only a 10euro difference.

2. Wear plugs as well. It's not one or the other, they work in different frequency ranges (muffs do high, plugs do low) so you won't get protection without both.

That aside, you could go for an electric. They're a good deal quieter.
They're also a lot lighter, easier to move around and generally less hassle. Generally better option unless you've got a large lawn IMO.

tombrown

Hi

I have a castelgarden 102 Hydro ride on mower from 2005. At the start of last summer I replaced the drive belt, and the mower was fine all year. This year it has been fine up until the last 2 weeks, but now the drive belt keeps jumping off the pulley on the back axel when I start the engine.

I have checked the belt and it is in good condition & properly fitted. There is an option to adjust the tension, and I have looked at that - there is spring that is meant to be 109-111 mm in length, it is actually a bit tighter than that (~115mm), so over tensioned, but has been like that since I installed the belt.

Could that be a problem? I would have thought under-tensioned would cause what I have, not over-tensioned.

Any other ideas?

tombrown

Actually, I did find some damage to the belt after all - there is a split on the backside of the belt, so it is getting caught on one of the guards around a pulley wheel. I'll have to order & fit a new one then, but it does give rise to a couple of questions:

1. Is it feasible/advisable to temporarily repair the belt with tape and turn it round, so the split faces the opposite direction to the belt rotation, just so I can mow the grass while waiting for the new belt?

2. Any tips on what to check to see if I can find anything on the mower itself that caused the damage?

thanks

bamayang

Hi, long time follower here. Have a Castlegarden 102 ride on with B&S engine, it was passed down from father and is going since 2001. It is getting to be on last legs and am planning to source a new one towards end of this season. Or maybe should think about moving sooner the way prices seem to be jumping on everything.

Could anyone reccomend something similar? Have about 2,000sqm of lawn area. Dont like mulching, prefer to collect the grass. Have a good lot of trees in the garden, but dont mind going back after with a strimmer to tidy those.
What would be my best bet to try and get similar longevity? I'd rather pay a little more now and avoid regular breakdowns.
Cheers

tombrown

tombrown wrote: »

Actually, I did find some damage to the belt after all - there is a split on the backside of the belt, so it is getting caught on one of the guards around a pulley wheel. I'll have to order & fit a new one then, but it does give rise to a couple of questions:

1. Is it feasible/advisable to temporarily repair the belt with tape and turn it round, so the split faces the opposite direction to the belt rotation, just so I can mow the grass while waiting for the new belt?

2. Any tips on what to check to see if I can find anything on the mower itself that caused the damage?

thanks

Added photo of belt - based on the direction of the split, I am thinking if I reverse the belt so it is pointing the opposite direction it wont catch, and I can at least cut the grass pending the new belt

The Continental Op

Maybe if its not too difficult to get at and change then try it the other way around but be prepared for sods law to kick in and have it snap right in the middle of the lawn or the furthest point from where you store it whichever is worse

tombrown

The Continental Op wrote: »

Maybe if its not too difficult to get at and change then try it the other way around but be prepared for sods law to kick in and have it snap right in the middle of the lawn or the furthest point from where you store it whichever is worse

Thanks

Yep - that is what normally happens, the point in the garden that is furthest from both the garage & the grass cutting pile, but only once the collection basket is over 90% full.

I can live with that, so long as I wont be risking damaging the mower by putting the belt on like that.

Any idea what may have caused that damage? Can it be as simple as a stick or similar getting caught up?

The Continental Op

tombrown wrote: »

Thanks

Yep - that is what normally happens, the point in the garden that is furthest from both the garage & the grass cutting pile, but only once the collection basket is over 90% full.

I can live with that, so long as I wont be risking damaging the mower by putting the belt on like that.

Any idea what may have caused that damage? Can it be as simple as a stick or similar getting caught up?

If its not been replaced then just old age.

tombrown

The Continental Op wrote: »

If its not been replaced then just old age.

I only put it on a year ago. The one before was worn in multiple places, this one only has that damage in one place

The Continental Op

tombrown wrote: »

I only put it on a year ago. The one before was worn in multiple places, this one only has that damage in one place

Something stuck up in it then? Then I've found different qualities of belt some that last forever and some that hardly make the season out.

deezell

tombrown wrote: »

I only put it on a year ago. The one before was worn in multiple places, this one only has that damage in one place

You'd be better off using the old belt if you kept it, that split belt is very far gone, and tape won't be worth a toss. Severe overtensioning can indeed cause belts to ride off a pulley, especially a tensioner or idler pulley, as the extra strain will tilt the pulley shaft on its mounting plate, causing the belt to ride hard against the pulley rims, fray the edge and then catch and jump off, usually with a big nick out of the belt. Usually spring loaded tensioners don't require adjustment, it would tend to be a little more extended with a new belt, shortening as the belt wore and bedded in. Sometimes an idler or tensioner pulley bearing will seize over the winter, the belt might slip over a back idler for a while, but it will likely damage the belt, and a stuck or sticky front V idler will easily take a chunk from a belt on startup.

tombrown

Thanks

I don't have the old belt - it was a mess, so I may try with this one just top try & get grass cut tomorrow before a new one gets fitted - if it snaps, nothing is lost, apart from my back pushing the mower back to the garage. I'll reduce the tension too

tombrown

OK - sorted my temporary fix - taped up the belt to prevent fraying, and reversed it, so the split won't catch on guards anymore. Drove it around a bit to prove to myself it works. I suspect it wont last too long before it snaps, but may be able to get the grass cut tomorrow evening, to give me a bit of time to replace the belt when the new one comes.

One problem I have is loosening the central nut on the main engine pulley (see attached diagram). I cant budge it - tried socket wrench, wheel wrench, electric screwdriver (with socket), even my drill - but as I have to try & hold the pulley wheel at the same time it proves impossible. The manual does suggest there is a special tool that will fit into the holes 4a, shown, but I cant find it to buy anywhere.

I can work around that by dismantling the timing belt & removing some other parts, but its the long way round, and, one of these days, I'll forget to put some critical part back

deezell

tombrown wrote: »

OK -
.....One problem I have is loosening the central nut on the main engine pulley (see attached diagram). I cant budge it - tried socket wrench, wheel wrench, electric screwdriver (with socket), even my drill - but as I have to try & hold the pulley wheel at the same time it proves impossible. The manual does suggest there is a special tool that will fit into the holes 4a, shown, but I cant find it to buy anywhere.....

If I recall correctly, you can slide a long reach large diameter screwdriver through one of the holes and catch it on chassis, enough to stop the engine turning, or slide a pry bar between the pulleys, into the space between the pulley hub and a bolt pushed through one on the holes, then just rotate the pulleys until the bar catches on the chassis.
On one occasion in the past I popped the top engine circular grille cover and put a long socket bar on the top engine nut, turning until the bar was wedged against the frame. Happily the bottom nut opened first, but it might only loosen the top one. On another occasion a large vice grip on the hub between the pulleys tightened to the max so it wouldn't slip done the trick.

tombrown

Thanks. I might still need an impact wrench, even if I can lock the wheel. Not worth buying one, as I cant see when else I would use it, not sure I know anyone who would have one to borrow ... hire maybe

bamayang

tombrown wrote: »

Thanks. I might still need an impact wrench, even if I can lock the wheel. Not worth buying one, as I cant see when else I would use it, not sure I know anyone who would have one to borrow ... hire maybe

I dont think you need to take that pulley off at all. I did one last year and just removed the two bolts that come down either side of the pulley and then dropped all the idler pulleys back up under the seat and that gave enough slack to get the belt off.

I have a feeling that pulley is designed not to come off, or it may be reverse thread.

tombrown

The workshop manual says to take it off.

If you don't take it off, it is impossible to take the drive belt off without first taking the timing belt off as it is on the same pulley axle, and is mounted below the drive belt. To get the timing belt off you need to loosen one of the other timing belt pulleys or is to tight to ease off.

Then. even when you have the timing belt removed there is a spring loaded bar ("mobile guide pulley" - see 2 on diagram) that is set so close to the pulley that the drive belt sits on, it doesn't leave enough space to get a belt in, even when pushed forward as shown (note the drive belt pulley is the one at the top of the picture - the one at the bottom is the timing belt pulley).

I could fit the damaged belt in yesterday as it is stripped in one place, but for a new belt I have to remove that bar.

So - all possible without removing the pulley, but complicated, and lots of room to put things back wrong

deezell

MAULBROOK wrote: »

Dose any one know can you get battery powered ride on lawnmowers in Ireland, I would get a robot mower but I cant find one that will pick up dog shxt before the cut

https://www.donedeal.ie/gardenequipment-for-sale/weibang-ion-battery-ride-on-lawnmower/28091583

fryup

any idea of the price? deezell

the goon

deezell wrote: »

Or just get these?

https://www.safetydirect.ie/pel510a.html

Ya. Have them.

deezell

fryup wrote: »

any idea of the price? deezell

4 grand South of the border.
https://monaghanhire.com/products/weibang-wb81ec-b-e-rider-battery-ride-on-lawnmower

UK prices seem higher

The Continental Op

deezell wrote: »

4 grand South of the border.
https://monaghanhire.com/products/weibang-wb81ec-b-e-rider-battery-ride-on-lawnmower

UK prices seem higher

See if you can do a deal with them I got about 10% off their advertised price on a new mower delivered.

tombrown

Recommendation needed

I have recently been working on my castelgarden Hydro 102 ride on mower, repairing & then replacing the drive belt; this requires tipping the mower upright (resting on the collection box arms) to get access to the underside. I normally have to enlist the help of my wife to do this - I take the most of the weight, but I need that little bit extra to get it fully upright. Now I've pulled something in my back

... it 's temporary only, but the missus is banning me from lifting it again, and says she wont help me next time I ask. She's probably right

So I am wondering if I can install some sort of (mains powered) winch into the joists in the garage ceiling. I foresee attaching the cable to the front bar and then winching from above & behind (with blocks on the back wheels) to get the thing upright.

Does this make sense? If so can any recommend a solution?

The Continental Op

Just bought this Oregon 42-086 Clip Lift, Hydraulic Maintenance Jack for Ride-on lawnmowers and Garden Tractors Expensive solution but works really well. Quite scary the first time using it but its all very solid and can recommend. You can get some cheaper ones that wind up on a screw thread.

tombrown

The Continental Op wrote: »

Just bought this Oregon 42-086 Clip Lift, Hydraulic Maintenance Jack for Ride-on lawnmowers and Garden Tractors Expensive solution but works really well. Quite scary the first time using it but its all very solid and can recommend. You can get some cheaper ones that wind up on a screw thread.

That looks an idea, especially as I just looked at the workshop manual for the mower & it explicitly states you should not use winches or hoists to lift the mower.

The only think with your one is it lifts the mower on its side - the advantage of having it upright (on its hind legs, so to speak) is that I can work on it while standing up. That said this can work, albeit slightly less comfortable, and, if nothing else, it gives me another avenue to explore

The Continental Op

Know what you mean and its quite funny really if you look at the pictures on the Amazon listing page. They have a picture of a snapper lawn rider up on that jack and that particular mower is designed to tip up at 90 degrees on its rear frame for maintenance.

There are far too many safety concerns with using a hoist. I wouldn't think twice about using one but it takes a bit of common sense, thought and care.

fryup

anyone know the width of the cut of this aldi mower

Nobbies

Any such treatment/product available to apply on underside of lawnmower deck to help prevent grass from drying to the deck.

Usually clean the deck after every cut,but can miss it on occasion.