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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

is there a simple list of chemicals which you should not get near disc brake pads? i.e. would even something like a detergent cause issues with contamination; i was wondering as i was cleaning the bike earlier if i can be overcautious in cleaning the bike near the brakes.

any tips on looking after a steel frame? my latest purchase has mountings for racks and also a couple of unthreaded holes - should i tape those up to keep water out, or leave them uncovered to let the water out should it get in?

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magicbastarder

€8.49 (delivered) for the part from bikeinn.

Type 17

68 lost souls wrote: »

If its a small part like that chance your arm and ring them or email and ask can they pop it in a iffy bag and royal mail it to you?

Actually, they state on their delivery info page that this is possible:

Any orders being exported with a packed weight under 100grams can be sent untracked to offer a cheaper postage option for small items. If selecting the untracked method please be aware that this shipping method will take longer than the tracked method - anything up to 30 working days is to be expected.

Might be useful if a part is unavailable elsewhere.

nicksnikita

68 lost souls wrote: »

If its a small part like that chance your arm and ring them or email and ask can they pop it in a iffy bag and royal mail it to you?

Spare yourself the hassle. I tried the above and got an aggressive response that effectively said stump up if you want the part. Needless to say...I didn't stump up

MojoMaker

Which tells me the postage isn't that indicated cost at all.

CramCycle

Other option is too ask your LBS to order it and get it in with their next Shimano delivery. Probably more reasonable than most of the options stated so far.

retalivity

So i hadnt cycled in a week, went down yesterday evening to the basement (I live in an apt block) and saw that the bikes around my bike were all gone with locks cut etc, but mine was still there. Checked the lock on mine all ok, but when I took it out I saw the damage below to the frame - looks like whoever was robbing bikes tried to twist mine over to break the lock, damaging it in the process, and then gave up.
I took it out for an hour or so yesterday to test it, all was ok. Took it to the shop today for them to check it out, they said it was a write off and to not ride it as the carbon fibre could snap if i hit a bad pothole. Said that they could not repair it, there are a few places in Ireland that may be able to fix it but to have a look online and see.
Have any experience with something like this and what can be done? Bike is only 1.5 years old, structurally it seems fine but the LBS guy has me wary now so would like it fixed asap. Any recommendations on carbon repairs in the Dublin area? Is it worth repairing? Looking around broefly online I see what frame repairs are anywhere from €100 - €300+, which seems reasonable...

tomasrojo

Anyone know what tool is required to unscrew the core of a Shimano hub dynamo out of the hub shell?

This sort of thing:

I just checked the serviceable side of the hub, and it's pristine, so the slight resistance I'm getting when the wheel turns must be in the non-serviceable ball bearings in the dynamo core. It's only about €35 to replace the core, and it's done over 35,000km, so it's probably time.

The guy in this video made his own pin spanner to do it (1:50), but if the actual tool doesn't cost that much I'll get that. I don't want to go down the route of using a hammer and chisel or anything like that. I have an old-style bottom bracket pin spanner, but it won't do the job.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MaDhrLFRpx8

tomasrojo

retalivity wrote: »

Took it to the shop today for them to check it out, they said it was a write off and to not ride it as the carbon fibre could snap if i hit a bad pothole.

You can see holes in the frame from the stress of the distortion, so, while I don't know much about carbon fibre, it does look like a write-off, alas.

tomasrojo

(Definitely don't take my word for it though. I know nothing about carbon fibre, except that it's supposed to fail spectacularly when it does fail.)

magicbastarder

that's stuffed; totally. completely unsafe to ride.
i'm no specialist in carbon fibre, not even close, but once there's even a crack in it, it's bin it or repair it, and that looks way too extensive to repair.

ARX

CramCycle wrote: »

Holy f***, just looked at SJS shipping, 35euro for a 2euro part

They told me that "we are only using DHL for export orders due to their reliability compared to other carriers we have tried. We hope to resume normal shipping prices asap" which seems fair enough to me. Funnily enough it was £15 to Australia or Russia and £60 to Sweden when I checked.

8valve

retalivity wrote: »

So i hadnt cycled in a week, went down yesterday evening to the basement (I live in an apt block) and saw that the bikes around my bike were all gone with locks cut etc, but mine was still there. Checked the lock on mine all ok, but when I took it out I saw the damage below to the frame - looks like whoever was robbing bikes tried to twist mine over to break the lock, damaging it in the process, and then gave up.
I took it out for an hour or so yesterday to test it, all was ok. Took it to the shop today for them to check it out, they said it was a write off and to not ride it as the carbon fibre could snap if i hit a bad pothole. Said that they could not repair it, there are a few places in Ireland that may be able to fix it but to have a look online and see.
Have any experience with something like this and what can be done? Bike is only 1.5 years old, structurally it seems fine but the LBS guy has me wary now so would like it fixed asap. Any recommendations on carbon repairs in the Dublin area? Is it worth repairing? Looking around broefly online I see what frame repairs are anywhere from €100 - €300+, which seems reasonable...

Only one man for a carbon repair job like that; Marko, in Altitude, in Waterford.

The man is a a genius when it comes to composites/carbon repairs and has repaired stuff, to better than new, that many others would deem a write off.

Be warned there is usually a waiting list for his work, though.

tomasrojo

tomasrojo wrote: »

Anyone know what tool is required to unscrew the core of a Shimano hub dynamo out of the hub shell?

This sort of thing:

Think this might be the correct tool.

https://hollandbikeshop.com/en-gb/bicycle-tools-maintenance/bicycle-tools/bicycle-hub-tools/shimano-key-hub-dynamo-tl-dh20/?country_id=260

Pretty pricey. I might have to make something after all. The video I linked in that post, and another post on YouTube, seem to have used 8mm bolts filed to be square embedded in some metal as a wrench.

cletus

tomasrojo wrote: »

Think this might be the correct tool.

https://hollandbikeshop.com/en-gb/bicycle-tools-maintenance/bicycle-tools/bicycle-hub-tools/shimano-key-hub-dynamo-tl-dh20/?country_id=260

Pretty pricey. I might have to make something after all. The video I linked in that post, and another post on YouTube, seem to have used 8mm bolts filed to be square embedded in some metal as a wrench.

Jesus.

Does it have the same crenellation pattern as another normal freehub/freewheel tool? If so, it would be much easier to just cut the wall section out of an old one

tomasrojo

cletus wrote: »

Jesus.

Does it have the same crenellation pattern as another normal freehub/freewheel tool? If so, it would be much easier to just cut the wall section out of an old one

Don't think so. Not like the Shimano freehub removal tool I have anyway. The splines would be much bigger.

Could buy the new dynamo core and drop it into a shop that already has the tool to install. I just need it back the same day or back on a Saturday after a Friday drop-off, as it's off the cargo bike, and I need the cargo bike to bring the kids to school in anything like a reasonable time.

I guess the current one should last a while longer,but it's wasting energy on my part overcoming the resistance in the core.

cletus

tomasrojo wrote: »

Don't think so. Not like the Shimano freehub removal tool I have anyway. The splines would be much bigger.

Could buy the new dynamo core and drop it into a shop that already has the tool to install. I just need it back the same day or back on a Saturday after a Friday drop-off, as it's off the cargo bike, and I need the cargo bike to bring the kids to school in anything like a reasonable time.

I guess the current one should last a while longer,but it's wasting energy on my part overcoming the resistance in the core.

Have you pictures of the DIY tools that you've seen?

CianRyan

cletus wrote: »

Have you pictures of the DIY tools that you've seen?

You're gonna have to start charging!

cletus

CianRyan wrote: »

You're gonna have to start charging!

I haven't offered yet

tomasrojo

This was one of the improvised tools. He doesn't say what the bolts were, but in another video the guy mentions 5/16" bolts, filed to have a square profile.

[Deleted User]

Out of curiosity why would something like that tool be so expensive? it's little more than a fancier something you'd have as part of a socket set and the one linked to isn't even the most expensive from a quick search. To dissuade average Joe from attempting service/repair themselves maybe?

tomasrojo

Yeah, I was expecting €50, max. I guess it's a large-ish piece of hardened steel, precision engineered. Low production volumes maybe?

Based on the video, it's pretty easy job. You just screw out the old core and screw in the new one. There's a simple cup/cone arrangement on the other side of the hub with bearing balls. The replacement part is half the price of the tool!

[Deleted User]

Yeah possibly that, one on ebay from the US for 10 of their finest bucks https://www.ebay.com/c/1056797415 been years since I've bought from ebay though.

EDIT: Scratch that it's actually not the same one at all.

Large bottle small glass

tomasrojo wrote: »

Yeah, I was expecting €50, max. I guess it's a large-ish piece of hardened steel, precision engineered. Low production volumes maybe?

Based on the video, it's pretty easy job. You just screw out the old core and screw in the new one. There's a simple cup/cone arrangement on the other side of the hub with bearing balls. The replacement part is half the price of the tool!

https://yacf.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=7768.50

Is that any good to you or is hub very different to the dhn72 and 80 mentioned in that thread?

German YouTube video, along with photos at end of thread from the now gone trinitycycles link buried in thread along with a few helpful posts

Have you an odd wheel size? I've bought full wheels with a dhn80 hub for less than that tool from Rose bikes

tomasrojo

Large bottle small glass wrote: »

https://yacf.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=7768.50

Is that any good to you or is hub very different to the dhn72 and 80 mentioned in that thread?

German YouTube video, along with photos at end of thread from the now gone trinitycycles link buried in thread along with a few helpful posts

Have you an odd wheel size? I've bought full wheels with a dhn80 hub for less than that tool from Rose bikes

Thanks, will read that now.

It is an unusual size. It's the front wheel of a cargo bike, so it's small. 20"

EDIT: Have read now. Ithink it would be easier just to replace the dynamo core. There are a few videos showing you to open up the dynamo core and regrease it and so on, but it's quite easy to break it, so I'd need to have replacement core to be on the safe side anyway, given how reliant on the cargo bike I am. It's done about 35,000km. I don't feel bad about replacing it!

kevin7

Any advice on how to remove this freehub! It started to act up on my buddy's bike at the weekend. Pedalling but getting nowhere. I figure either the freehub needs to be replaced or a good cleaning might sort it out. Its operational now but for how long? 10k into the next ride? Either way its going to have to be removed and thats where I'm stuck.

Anyway, I removed the cassette and started to try to get the freehub out. First step I think is to remove the axle, and then I think I'll be putting a 10mm hex wrench down there to unscrew the freehub.

At least that's what I've done before a seems to be the way to go looking at some youtube.

However....I can't get the axle out.

I have removed the locking nut and cone and washers on the non drive side. In the videos I see, then it is simple to pull the axle out through the drive side. Mine isn't budging yet. Over on the non-drive side, the last component I see is a bearing. I guess all the ball bearings are inside this rather then ready to pop out with the axle? And maybe I have to remove this first before anything else is going to move? I don't see how to get this out though.

On the drive side I still have the locking nut and a cone beneath. I can't loosen this locking nut because I would need to stop the axle from turning while doing so, and I haven't been able to make this happen even when I put the bits back on the non-drive side.

Hopefully the pictures make it clear.

07Lapierre

kevin7 wrote: »

Any advice on how to remove this freehub! It started to act up on my buddy's bike at the weekend. Pedalling but getting nowhere. I figure either the freehub needs to be replaced or a good cleaning might sort it out. Its operational now but for how long? 10k into the next ride? Either way its going to have to be removed and thats where I'm stuck.

Anyway, I removed the cassette and started to try to get the freehub out. First step I think is to remove the axle, and then I think I'll be putting a 10mm hex wrench down there to unscrew the freehub.

At least that's what I've done before a seems to be the way to go looking at some youtube.

However....I can't get the axle out.

I have removed the locking nut and cone and washers on the non drive side. In the videos I see, then it is simple to pull the axle out through the drive side. Mine isn't budging yet. Over on the non-drive side, the last component I see is a bearing. I guess all the ball bearings are inside this rather then ready to pop out with the axle? And maybe I have to remove this first before anything else is going to move? I don't see how to get this out though.

On the drive side I still have the locking nut and a cone beneath. I can't loosen this locking nut because I would need to stop the axle from turning while doing so, and I haven't been able to make this happen even when I put the bits back on the non-drive side.

Hopefully the pictures make it clear.

use a torch and look into the axle..maybe an allen key inserted on the non-drive side will hold it while you unscrew the drive side?

Edit: open closer inspection, it looks like you need two spanners on the drive side. the inner cone/nut has two flats along with the outer locknut. hold the inner nut with one spanner and loosen the outer one with the other spanner? looks like you need two thin cone spanners.

kevin7

Thanks for the suggestions.

1 - No - the inside of the axle is perfectly round

2 - I had thought the notches on the inner cone/nut were too far inside and were thus inaccessible, but on closer inspection there was just about room.

However, I now undid the locking nut, but the inner cone/nut still remains. This is the last thing stuck to the axle and again there is no grip to try to loosen it. I guess I will put the things back on the non driver side and then that -might- hold the axle in place while I unscrew this piece.

I'll see how that goes later.

two wheels good

Looks like a lock washer bent on to the flat. A bit surprising.
If so, flatten it back with a chisel/screwdriver.

54and56

ridelikeaturtle wrote: »

Here's a good article about bicycle disc brakes - seems there are some minor differences between car and bicycle brakes that could be important. (E.g., don't buy a giant can of "brake cleaner" that'd work for a car's disc brake rotors, for your bicycle, etc.)

https://off.road.cc/content/feature/whats-the-best-way-to-clean-disc-brakes-on-a-bicycle-2937

So I gave my rotors a good clean with isopropyl alcohol on Sunday and went out for a spin Wednesday. The squealing out of both rotors if anything is worse so I brought it to my LBS thinking they'd either be able to decontaminate the pads and/or do a better job cleaning the rotors but once they examined both brakes they concluded changing the pads and re-cleaning the rotors won't work and that the only solution is to fit new rotors and pads front and back :eek:

That wasn't in my thinking but they are good guys who have always done repairs on my previous bike so I do trust them.

I guess some spray oil must have contaminated both rotors. I definitely don't use any form of spray oil on my bike but it's possible my son threw some WD40 or similar on his knock around MTB and my rotors caught some.

It'll be an expensive lesson.

magicbastarder

what sort of cleaning did you try on the pads? the rotors clean easily, pads require a tiny bit more work.