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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

is there a simple list of chemicals which you should not get near disc brake pads? i.e. would even something like a detergent cause issues with contamination; i was wondering as i was cleaning the bike earlier if i can be overcautious in cleaning the bike near the brakes.

any tips on looking after a steel frame? my latest purchase has mountings for racks and also a couple of unthreaded holes - should i tape those up to keep water out, or leave them uncovered to let the water out should it get in?

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Type 17

MojoMaker wrote: »

...the front compatibility is a little more sensitive. Looking at the chart the R7000 left hand shifter will work with the older 6800 and 5800 FD, but the R8000 left shifter will only work with the newer 7000, 8000, and 9100 front derailleurs? (and oddly the 5801 FD).

Actually, I think that any shifter in the left box will work with any FD in either of the two centre boxes, but the FDs are split into two boxes because they want to confirm the limitation that the lower box (older FDs) will not work with the upper FC box (newer chainsets), but that the newer FDs (upper box) will work with both older and newer FCs.

Mundo7976

Hey. Can ye recommend what disc brake pads to get for trp hyrd please. Preferably ones that dont shudder or squeal. Thanks

magicbastarder

it's not the brake pads which are to blame for that really; yours could be contaminated. does the braking performance drop off alarmingly in the wet?

Mundo7976

magicbastarder wrote: »

it's not the brake pads which are to blame for that really; yours could be contaminated. does the braking performance drop off alarmingly in the wet?

As in the pads contaminated?
Haven't noticed much difference in the wet, then again i take it easier when cycling in wet conditions (id be quite a cautious cyclist)
Would rotors need replacing also?
Its mainly the front that shudders, ive checked & tightened headset. Made sure brakes are aligned correctly, etc so i was putting it down to my weight behind it.
The rear brake squeals more so i have that down to needing new pads + bleed.

cletus

I'd try cleaning pads and disc first. Easy to do, and cheaper than replacing

magicbastarder

Mundo7976 wrote: »

Would rotors need replacing also?

no, just a light rub with some emery cloth/fine sandpaper at worst.

CianRyan

Shudder is down to warped dics on a car, I'm going to make a leap and say that it's probably the same on a bike.
If you're replacing dics, I'd always replace pads too.

magicbastarder

it can be an issue with contamination - which is usually less of an issue with cars because AFAIK, bike pads don't generate the same heat to burn off contamination that cars would.
shudder on bike brakes can also be caused by incorrect toe-in, though i don't know how much of an issue that can be on disc brakes.

cletus

CianRyan wrote: »

Shudder is down to warped dics on a car, I'm going to make a leap and say that it's probably the same on a bike.
If you're replacing dics, I'd always replace pads too.

I'm not sure it is, Cian. Don't know if you'd be generating enough heat

magicbastarder

brake pads are amazing, if you think about it. especially with cars; just think of the energy they're expected to absorb time after time. in several seconds, they can absorb the same sort of energy which would otherwise be enough to write your car off.

Mundo7976

Fair play lads.
Rotors seem straight by eye.
Ive some 400grit sandpaper ill use on them and replace pads, see if it helps

magicbastarder

regarding the pads, my usual cleaning regime is to pour boiling water on them and leave them sit for a couple of minutes, take them out and give them a good blast with a heat gun, and then scuff the surface with some fine sandpaper and rinse.

note: this has worked with every pad i've tried it on, except some BBB branded ones which i could just never get to perform properly. they were near useless in the wet, so i binned them for my own safety. might have been a bad batch.

CianRyan

I hear ya, guys. I'd definitely try to clean and lightly sand anything away.
I did have issue with my old MTB's discs after a little tumble, the front discs was very slightly out of true and it gave the same pulsing sensation as a brake pedal would in a car. In that case at least, a new disc was needed to fix it.

I definitely can't see a bike generating enough heat to warp the disc though, this is very true. It would be visually obvious then too.

cletus

CianRyan wrote: »

I hear ya, guys. I'd definitely try to clean and lightly sand anything away.
I did have issue with my old MTB's discs after a little tumble, the front discs was very slightly out of true and it gave the same pulsing sensation as a brake pedal would in a car. In that case at least, a new disc was needed to fix it.

I definitely can't see a bike generating enough heat to warp the disc though, this is very true. It would be visually obvious then too.

You should get yourself one of these...

CianRyan

I resent disc brakes but cause I'm old fashioned. (and I can't afford a disc brake bike) :pac:

Also, your PM's are full.

cletus

CianRyan wrote: »

I resent disc brakes but cause I'm old fashioned. (and I can't afford a disc brake bike) :pac:

Also, your PM's are full.

Deleted a few there now

DaveyDave

Got a new cassette for the turbo the other month, bike wasn't running smooth so I replaced the chain and it still isn't running smoothly. Rotating the pedals with my hand the chain seems to move outward ever so slightly at a certain rotation of the cassette.

Cassette refit to ensure it's flat, no play. No kinks or stiffness in the new chain. Definitely doesn't feel good when pedaling. I'll try swapping them and see if it persists. 11 speed Shimano 25-12 cassette, SRAM chain.

I haven't changed a cassette in a few years, is there a break in period?

MangleBadger

I am correct in my thinking that I can fit a 9 speed cassette to a 10/11 speed wheel and I just need to add a 1.85mm spacer to line it up?

07Lapierre

DaveyDave wrote: »

Got a new cassette for the turbo the other month, bike wasn't running smooth so I replaced the chain and it still isn't running smoothly. Rotating the pedals with my hand the chain seems to move outward ever so slightly at a certain rotation of the cassette.

Cassette refit to ensure it's flat, no play. No kinks or stiffness in the new chain. Definitely doesn't feel good when pedaling. I'll try swapping them and see if it persists. 11 speed Shimano 25-12 cassette, SRAM chain.

I haven't changed a cassette in a few years, is there a break in period?

I suspect you just need to index the rear derailleur. Can you post a video of this?

nicksnikita

105 5700 or 5800 chainring on R7000 Chainset?

As per the above, I’m wondering if a 5700 or 5800 big ring (52T) is compatible with an R7000 crank?

Is it just a matter of ensuring all have the same BCD and number of bolts or is there more to it?

Cheers,
Nico

07Lapierre

MangleBadger wrote: »

I am correct in my thinking that I can fit a 9 speed cassette to a 10/11 speed wheel and I just need to add a 1.85mm spacer to line it up?

yes.... that is you can fit a 9speed to a10/11 freehub. Not sure of the thickness of the spacer...1.85mm sounds about right though.

wersal gummage

Deleted,

g0g

How do I know if my bike (Orbea Orca) has a direct mount or non direct mount RD Hanger? I learnt the hard way before that it's always handy to have a spare knocking around. When I put my bike code into the website it lists both of the below as an option. When I then go on to download the manual (Page 22-23) it actually has an image showing the two of them side by side!? Groupset is 105. Thanks!
https://www.orbea.com/ie-en/gear/spare-parts/cat/pata-cambio-road-dn-x12-tornillo
https://www.orbea.com/ie-en/gear/spare-parts/cat/pata-cambio-road-std-x12-tornillo

Effects

Effects wrote: »

Had an issue last weekend, and seems I've shorn off the threads on the left side crank on a Tiagra 4700.
Am I right to think you can't buy them individually?

Got a new left crank in Bee Cycles for €30.

JerryHispano

I'm back again for some advice, the internet is showing up nothing.

My bike has started squeaking, almost constantly while rolling. High pitched. The noise does not present at all speeds, and not at all while it's on the stand. The pattern is related to rolling speed, and not correlated to pedaling. If I move forward off the seat, the sound will go away. I don't think it's any disk brake interference, to my ear that sounds much different.

Based on the symptoms, have narrowed it down to the wheels, though I can't tell which one. What I've done so far is remove the rubber dust covers and cleaned them, added a drop of oil and put them back on. This did approximately nothing.

Any advice of what to do? This has really destroyed my enjoyment of the bike.

two wheels good

Have you tried a long wheelie to rule out front wheel?
But seriously ..
Assuming you've checked brakes aren't rubbing. I'm thinking rear hub bearings dry. I'd give each side of the hub and behind cassette a squirt of spray lube. Bike laying on ground. If it improves do a proper re-grease of, or replace, bearings.

JerryHispano

two wheels good wrote: »

Have you tried a long wheelie to rule out front wheel?
But seriously ..
Assuming you've checked brakes aren't rubbing. I'm thinking rear hub bearings dry. I'd give each side of the hub and behind cassette a squirt of spray lube. Bike laying on ground. If it improves do a proper re-grease of, or replace, bearings.

Yeah, I'm familiar with brake rub, and I really don't think it's that. Will try the spray lube, have been using squeeze lube so far. It's a relatively new bike.

youcancallmeal

Wasn't sure whether to post this in the bike maintenance or clothing recommendations thread but here we go. Got a new bike recently, Giant Contend SL1 disc. Really enjoying it especially for the mountain climbing I do for fitness. My commuter is a Surly Straggler with a brooks saddle. The new bike has one of these saddles. My first few rides I was only wearing cheap padded shorts I got from Aldi/Lidl some time ago. My sit bones were in agony so I bought a pair of Endura bib shorts and some assos chamois cream, the pain is still there a bit but nowhere near as bad. I'm wondering will my sit bones eventually adjust to this saddle or should I start thinking about getting a different one? I'll be bringing my new bike in for 6 week checkup soon so maybe I could ask them if I'm setup right? I feel like I am though

CianRyan

youcancallmeal wrote: »

Wasn't sure whether to post this in the bike maintenance or clothing recommendations thread but here we go. Got a new bike recently, Giant Contend SL1 disc. Really enjoying it especially for the mountain climbing I do for fitness. My commuter is a Surly Straggler with a brooks saddle. The new bike has one of these saddles. My first few rides I was only wearing cheap padded shorts I got from Aldi/Lidl some time ago. My sit bones were in agony so I bought a pair of Endura bib shorts and some assos chamois cream, the pain is still there a bit but nowhere near as bad. I'm wondering will my sit bones eventually adjust to this saddle or should I start thinking about getting a different one? I'll be bringing my new bike in for 6 week checkup soon so maybe I could ask them if I'm setup right? I feel like I am though

It could be a bike fit issue, if the saddle is adjusted wrong then it could be pressing on painful areas.
If you search bike fit on youtube, there's plenty of videos on it.

Speaking of which, I went to raise my saddle height this morning and the carbon seat tube is seized in the aluminium.
Any tips? I'm thinking heat, as always...

MojoMaker

nicksnikita wrote: »

105 5700 or 5800 chainring on R7000 Chainset?

As per the above, I’m wondering if a 5700 or 5800 big ring (52T) is compatible with an R7000 crank?

Is it just a matter of ensuring all have the same BCD and number of bolts or is there more to it?

Cheers,
Nico

The bolt holes will line up fine, but what I've found across Shimano series crank arms is that visually they are designed not to mate perfectly so that you effectively stay "in series". The joins between the big ring and the spider arms are less than perfect when crossing series.

The 5700 will be no use (5-arm) as Weepsie says.

I found this link from Type_17 to be very useful when plotting out a series mix - https://productinfo.shimano.com/#/com?acid=C-455&cid=C-453