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Detailing chat

Hi I've been thinking it'd be nice to have a thread where simple questions that people don't want to create a thread for, could go. Or any chat related to detailing.

I've a question. If I've put a wax on, then a sealant. Then after a few weeks or w/e I'm thinking the shine isn't what it was. (After washing obviously) Can I apply wax on top of whatever sealant and wax is left from the first time, or do I have to remove the remaining sealant + wax first?

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Sexual Chocolate

Still waiting till restrictions are eased to send my car off for it's paint correction, though most likely next month regardless of rules at this stage.

Anyways, if I did get a ceramic coating is there products I'd have to stop using altogether ?

My method for the paint work is

Snowfoam - Bilt Hamber Auto Foam

Fallout - Reflect Red Ox ( every second or third wash typically)

De-tar - Reflect tar and glue remover but will be switching to Autobrite one soon. (Again every few washes)

Shampoo - Reflects Cherry Bomb

Drying Aid - Reflects Super Cold Wax ( Guessing I'd definitely be dropping this after a ceramic coating ? )

Quick Detailer - Reflect QD

Am considering but some citrus pre-wash to use with a pump sprayer as well.

Was initially going with a single stage correction but may consider a 2 or 3 stage. In saying that though I've seen some impressive results on I.D.E of single stage corrections lately, especially with Scholl S20.

punisher5112

Sexual Chocolate wrote: »

Still waiting till restrictions are eased to send my car off for it's paint correction, though most likely next month regardless of rules at this stage.

Anyways, if I did get a ceramic coating is there products I'd have to stop using altogether ?

My method for the paint work is

Snowfoam - Bilt Hamber Auto Foam

Fallout - Reflect Red Ox ( every second or third wash typically)

De-tar - Reflect tar and glue remover but will be switching to Autobrite one soon. (Again every few washes)

Shampoo - Reflects Cherry Bomb

Drying Aid - Reflects Super Cold Wax ( Guessing I'd definitely be dropping this after a ceramic coating ? )

Quick Detailer - Reflect QD

Am considering but some citrus pre-wash to use with a pump sprayer as well.

Was initially going with a single stage correction but may consider a 2 or 3 stage. In saying that though I've seen some impressive results on I.D.E of single stage corrections lately, especially with Scholl S20.

De tar will strip everything....

You most likely won't need it as much depending on coating you go for.

Gumbo

Sexual Chocolate wrote: »

Still waiting till restrictions are eased to send my car off for it's paint correction, though most likely next month regardless of rules at this stage.

Anyways, if I did get a ceramic coating is there products I'd have to stop using altogether ?

My method for the paint work is

Snowfoam - Bilt Hamber Auto Foam

Fallout - Reflect Red Ox ( every second or third wash typically)

De-tar - Reflect tar and glue remover but will be switching to Autobrite one soon. (Again every few washes)

Shampoo - Reflects Cherry Bomb

Drying Aid - Reflects Super Cold Wax ( Guessing I'd definitely be dropping this after a ceramic coating ? )

Quick Detailer - Reflect QD

Am considering but some citrus pre-wash to use with a pump sprayer as well.

Was initially going with a single stage correction but may consider a 2 or 3 stage. In saying that though I've seen some impressive results on I.D.E of single stage corrections lately, especially with Scholl S20.

You shouldn’t need to de-tar. And even without a coating it’s not something I’d use very wash either. No need for fall out either.

You won’t be single stage polishing or 2/3 after getting your coating either. That should be done at the same time as your getting the coating done.

Pre wash is safe. Just check the product and dilution.

Sexual Chocolate

Gumbo wrote: »

You shouldn’t need to de-tar. And even without a coating it’s not something I’d use very wash either. No need for fall out either.

You won’t be single stage polishing or 2/3 after getting your coating either. That should be done at the same time as your getting the coating done.

Pre wash is safe. Just check the product and dilution.

Polish first and coating directly after, thats the plan all along

Gumbo

Sexual Chocolate wrote: »

Polish first and coating directly after, thats the plan all along

You said you were sending your car off for ceramic coating.
But you want to polish?

Done worry about that bit. The guys doing the ceramic coating will be doing the paint correction. Most guys doing this work will be in a garage / covered unit so they will most likely do a full 2/3 stage polish at that time.

I personally don’t have access to a unit (not one I can hold up for 2/3 days) so I use an AIO at home S20 is supposed to be brilliant. I use Rupes Uno Protect purely because it works with P&S Beadmaker so that’s my go to combo at the moment.

5500

Bit of a different one but I've got some outdoor patio seats that ended up left in the elements and was going to go at them to bring them back to life. The frames are stainless steel and fine, its the covers that need the work.

A buddy reckoned bio blue would do the trick if applied then power washed off , but has anyone done similar and reccomend a particular product?

[Deleted User]

punisher5112 wrote: »

De tar will strip everything....

You most likely won't need it as much depending on coating you go for.

Tar remover will not strip ceramic coatings. If you read Gtechniq's tar remover it specifically states that it's "coating safe". Same goes for CarPro.

punisher5112

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

Tar remover will not strip ceramic coatings. If you read Gtechniq's tar remover it specifically states that it's "coating safe". Same goes for CarPro.

More to wax etc I was trying to get points across that it most likely wouldn't be needed if ceramic is done anyway.

CIP4

I want to clean the steering wheel on my car it has the typical shiny look you get from build up of oils etc on the leather from over the years. I was recommended Poorboys Leather stuff is this good to use on steering wheels or is it more for seats ?

Stallingrad

CIP4 wrote: »

I want to clean the steering wheel on my car it has the typical shiny look you get from build up of oils etc on the leather from over the years. I was recommended Poorboys Leather stuff is this good to use on steering wheels or is it more for seats ?

Try a magic sponge, they are abrasive so go very lightly with water. Delivers a Matt, like new appearance. Not a long term fix but looks great for a while.

PsychoPete

Personally wouldn't be a fan of those leather cleaners/conditioners, I'd rather use a product like dr leather,geyon leather cleaner etc to clean it

[Deleted User]

Stallingrad wrote: »

Try a magic sponge, they are abrasive so go very lightly with water. Delivers a Matt, like new appearance. Not a long term fix but looks great for a while.

A magic sponge will clean a steering wheel but it will also pull the dye out of it, not recommended.

Instead, wipe down the wheel with a damp microfibre and leave for a few minutes. Following this use a light leather cleaning solution (Colourlock light leather cleaner or Gtechniq I2 TriClean) with a light bristled brush to work it into the leather and leave for a few minutes before brushing again. Then using the damp microfibre, gently rub the solution off. Then use a clean, dry microfibre to gently dry the wheel.

Leave to dry (preferably with the air con running) and inspect once fully dry. If there are still shiny bits, tackle these again on their own rather than doing the whole wheel again.

Be aware that below all the grease etc., the wheel can be worn and this will show when it's clean.

frozenfrozen

I use surfex hd on steering wheels with a soft brush and microfibres is that bad? they come out great but don't want to find out I'm damaging them

ianobrien

I've used CarPro Inside on the steering wheel, working it in with a soft brush. I've used it successfully in the past following the instructions on the back of the bottle.

Just another option for cleaning.

As for the use of Surfix, I'm not sure.

[Deleted User]

APC or degreaser has too high a PH number for regular cleaning of leather. Their PH numbers as APCs and degreasers is 12 which is alkaline whereas leather's PH number is around 5. A mild leather cleaner is around 5/6.5 so is much better on leather. A strong leather cleaner has a PH of around 9/10 but you'd only use that on very dirty leather and then keep on top of it with the mild cleaner.

CarPro Inside is a great product and is one that I often use too.

Sexual Chocolate

Took advantage tonight of Reflect Autocare 20% off for Paddys day. Think a few others are doing similar discounts as well.....

Picked up a good few things but I decided to give their GPXT apc a go and save the remainder of the Surfex HD I have left for heavy/tough stuff. More curious to see how it performs if anything.

Also going to try out some Vonixx Shiney for the tyres which some folk are raving on about lately. Just find the Reflect stuff very solvent and it's also left a couple of stains on the driveway from dripping off the paintbrush I use. A product which I feel has it place in trade, great otherwise though.

Also picked up my second 5L bottle of Auto Foam. Bought my first bottle back in May from Slims so I'm definitely getting my moneys worth from it. Would love to try something different (again for curiosity) but not much else seems to beat it and I love that it doesn't stay on the driveway for ages afterwards unlike Autobrite Magifoam I was using before hand. Open to recommendations if anyone has any.

ianobrien

Don't tempt me with that Reflect offer. I'll probably go shopping for stuff "I'd like to try" and "Oh I might use that".

I've already got WAY too much on the shelves in the garage!

.....must resist the temptation......

.... starting to fail.....

....bugger this, I'm having ONE quick look......

rodge123

Done a full detail on car a few weeks ago, applied C2v3 and bilt Hamber QD at end.
Thinking of applying some collinite 845 over the c2v3 in future, would this be ok?
Love the look of the collinite after hearing if it here and googling it. Seems easy to apply too.

PsychoPete

I find the best product to top up c2v3 is with more c2v3

rodge123

PsychoPete wrote: »

I find the best product to top up c2v3 is with more c2v3

While I find the gloss and beading from c2v3 good, Collinite looks like another level though?

Gumbo

rodge123 wrote: »

Done a full detail on car a few weeks ago, applied C2v3 and bilt Hamber QD at end.
Thinking of applying some collinite 845 over the c2v3 in future, would this be ok?
Love the look of the collinite after hearing if it here and googling it. Seems easy to apply too.

Did you use C2V3 as a top up or as your main coating/sealant?
I would have thought C2V3 was best served as a drying aid/quick detailer for maintaining a coated car already.

Collinite is good, but I don’t think I’d layer that over C2V3. Maybe someone else can clarify.

rodge123

Gumbo wrote: »

Did you use C2V3 as a top up or as your main coating/sealant?
I would have thought C2V3 was best served as a drying aid/quick detailer for maintaining a coated car already.

Collinite is good, but I don’t think I’d layer that over C2V3. Maybe someone else can clarify.

Used it as main sealant, neat for first go and diluted down for second pass.

Might apply some cquartz lite or similar in a few months when do another full detail.

DuckSlice

Recently got addicted to TikTok, surprising amount of good videos on there. A few detailers recommend using Plumbers putty instead of claybar? anyone heard of this? I dont for a second intend doing it but just wondering what are peoples thoughts?

Stallingrad

etxp wrote: »

Recently got addicted to TikTok, surprising amount of good videos on there. A few detailers recommend using Plumbers putty instead of claybar? anyone heard of this? I dont for a second intend doing it but just wondering what are peoples thoughts?

Who knows, but people are doing crazy sh!t on TikTok to try and get views, I've seen laughable hacks that are pure nonsense, so would take anything I see there with a huge paunch of salt.

Gumbo

etxp wrote: »

Recently got addicted to TikTok, surprising amount of good videos on there. A few detailers recommend using Plumbers putty instead of claybar? anyone heard of this? I dont for a second intend doing it but just wondering what are peoples thoughts?

Thoughts.
Just buy a fly bar, clay mitt or clay sponge and make your savings by making your own lube with water and car wash shampoo.

Tic Toc nonsense, they are not detailer s if they are recommending that, they are click bait and looking for views.

CianRyan

What's the common people's favroute snow foam these days?
I've been fond of Chemical Guys Honey Dew in the past but never thought it really gave the results I wanted.

PsychoPete

Bilt Hamber auto foam is my go to snowfoam, it's not thick but it stays on the panel and works very well. Wouldn't be a fan of the thick snowfoams personally

crasy dash

Using Bilt hamber here as well using it the last few months and find it very good.
Tried autoglym polar Blast as well but wasn't overall impressed but that could have been me on the day and not getting the concentration correct.

Plenty of places online here stocking Bilt hamber as well of late so no need to order from the UK.

Hebegeebee

For me, BH Autofoam or Autobrite Magifoam. The Autofoam, as PsychoPete said above, doesn’t foam much but cleans very well. The Magifoam in contrast produces a really thick foam but cleans very well too.

CianRyan

Sound, is there local website you lads tend to use?
I use to order from Detailing Shed in the past but it doesn't seem to be active anymore.