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Detailing chat

Hi I've been thinking it'd be nice to have a thread where simple questions that people don't want to create a thread for, could go. Or any chat related to detailing.

I've a question. If I've put a wax on, then a sealant. Then after a few weeks or w/e I'm thinking the shine isn't what it was. (After washing obviously) Can I apply wax on top of whatever sealant and wax is left from the first time, or do I have to remove the remaining sealant + wax first?

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rodge123

PsychoPete wrote: »

I find the best product to top up c2v3 is with more c2v3

While I find the gloss and beading from c2v3 good, Collinite looks like another level though?

PsychoPete

I find the best product to top up c2v3 is with more c2v3

rodge123

Done a full detail on car a few weeks ago, applied C2v3 and bilt Hamber QD at end.
Thinking of applying some collinite 845 over the c2v3 in future, would this be ok?
Love the look of the collinite after hearing if it here and googling it. Seems easy to apply too.

ianobrien

Don't tempt me with that Reflect offer. I'll probably go shopping for stuff "I'd like to try" and "Oh I might use that".

I've already got WAY too much on the shelves in the garage!

.....must resist the temptation......

.... starting to fail.....

....bugger this, I'm having ONE quick look......

Sexual Chocolate

Took advantage tonight of Reflect Autocare 20% off for Paddys day. Think a few others are doing similar discounts as well.....

Picked up a good few things but I decided to give their GPXT apc a go and save the remainder of the Surfex HD I have left for heavy/tough stuff. More curious to see how it performs if anything.

Also going to try out some Vonixx Shiney for the tyres which some folk are raving on about lately. Just find the Reflect stuff very solvent and it's also left a couple of stains on the driveway from dripping off the paintbrush I use. A product which I feel has it place in trade, great otherwise though.

Also picked up my second 5L bottle of Auto Foam. Bought my first bottle back in May from Slims so I'm definitely getting my moneys worth from it. Would love to try something different (again for curiosity) but not much else seems to beat it and I love that it doesn't stay on the driveway for ages afterwards unlike Autobrite Magifoam I was using before hand. Open to recommendations if anyone has any.

[Deleted User]

APC or degreaser has too high a PH number for regular cleaning of leather. Their PH numbers as APCs and degreasers is 12 which is alkaline whereas leather's PH number is around 5. A mild leather cleaner is around 5/6.5 so is much better on leather. A strong leather cleaner has a PH of around 9/10 but you'd only use that on very dirty leather and then keep on top of it with the mild cleaner.

CarPro Inside is a great product and is one that I often use too.

ianobrien

I've used CarPro Inside on the steering wheel, working it in with a soft brush. I've used it successfully in the past following the instructions on the back of the bottle.

Just another option for cleaning.

As for the use of Surfix, I'm not sure.

frozenfrozen

I use surfex hd on steering wheels with a soft brush and microfibres is that bad? they come out great but don't want to find out I'm damaging them

[Deleted User]

Stallingrad wrote: »

Try a magic sponge, they are abrasive so go very lightly with water. Delivers a Matt, like new appearance. Not a long term fix but looks great for a while.

A magic sponge will clean a steering wheel but it will also pull the dye out of it, not recommended.

Instead, wipe down the wheel with a damp microfibre and leave for a few minutes. Following this use a light leather cleaning solution (Colourlock light leather cleaner or Gtechniq I2 TriClean) with a light bristled brush to work it into the leather and leave for a few minutes before brushing again. Then using the damp microfibre, gently rub the solution off. Then use a clean, dry microfibre to gently dry the wheel.

Leave to dry (preferably with the air con running) and inspect once fully dry. If there are still shiny bits, tackle these again on their own rather than doing the whole wheel again.

Be aware that below all the grease etc., the wheel can be worn and this will show when it's clean.

PsychoPete

Personally wouldn't be a fan of those leather cleaners/conditioners, I'd rather use a product like dr leather,geyon leather cleaner etc to clean it

Stallingrad

CIP4 wrote: »

I want to clean the steering wheel on my car it has the typical shiny look you get from build up of oils etc on the leather from over the years. I was recommended Poorboys Leather stuff is this good to use on steering wheels or is it more for seats ?

Try a magic sponge, they are abrasive so go very lightly with water. Delivers a Matt, like new appearance. Not a long term fix but looks great for a while.

CIP4

I want to clean the steering wheel on my car it has the typical shiny look you get from build up of oils etc on the leather from over the years. I was recommended Poorboys Leather stuff is this good to use on steering wheels or is it more for seats ?

punisher5112

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

Tar remover will not strip ceramic coatings. If you read Gtechniq's tar remover it specifically states that it's "coating safe". Same goes for CarPro.

More to wax etc I was trying to get points across that it most likely wouldn't be needed if ceramic is done anyway.

[Deleted User]

punisher5112 wrote: »

De tar will strip everything....

You most likely won't need it as much depending on coating you go for.

Tar remover will not strip ceramic coatings. If you read Gtechniq's tar remover it specifically states that it's "coating safe". Same goes for CarPro.

5500

Bit of a different one but I've got some outdoor patio seats that ended up left in the elements and was going to go at them to bring them back to life. The frames are stainless steel and fine, its the covers that need the work.

A buddy reckoned bio blue would do the trick if applied then power washed off , but has anyone done similar and reccomend a particular product?

Gumbo

Sexual Chocolate wrote: »

Polish first and coating directly after, thats the plan all along

You said you were sending your car off for ceramic coating.
But you want to polish?

Done worry about that bit. The guys doing the ceramic coating will be doing the paint correction. Most guys doing this work will be in a garage / covered unit so they will most likely do a full 2/3 stage polish at that time.

I personally don’t have access to a unit (not one I can hold up for 2/3 days) so I use an AIO at home S20 is supposed to be brilliant. I use Rupes Uno Protect purely because it works with P&S Beadmaker so that’s my go to combo at the moment.

Sexual Chocolate

Gumbo wrote: »

You shouldn’t need to de-tar. And even without a coating it’s not something I’d use very wash either. No need for fall out either.

You won’t be single stage polishing or 2/3 after getting your coating either. That should be done at the same time as your getting the coating done.

Pre wash is safe. Just check the product and dilution.

Polish first and coating directly after, thats the plan all along

Gumbo

Sexual Chocolate wrote: »

Still waiting till restrictions are eased to send my car off for it's paint correction, though most likely next month regardless of rules at this stage.

Anyways, if I did get a ceramic coating is there products I'd have to stop using altogether ?

My method for the paint work is

Snowfoam - Bilt Hamber Auto Foam

Fallout - Reflect Red Ox ( every second or third wash typically)

De-tar - Reflect tar and glue remover but will be switching to Autobrite one soon. (Again every few washes)

Shampoo - Reflects Cherry Bomb

Drying Aid - Reflects Super Cold Wax ( Guessing I'd definitely be dropping this after a ceramic coating ? )

Quick Detailer - Reflect QD

Am considering but some citrus pre-wash to use with a pump sprayer as well.

Was initially going with a single stage correction but may consider a 2 or 3 stage. In saying that though I've seen some impressive results on I.D.E of single stage corrections lately, especially with Scholl S20.

You shouldn’t need to de-tar. And even without a coating it’s not something I’d use very wash either. No need for fall out either.

You won’t be single stage polishing or 2/3 after getting your coating either. That should be done at the same time as your getting the coating done.

Pre wash is safe. Just check the product and dilution.

punisher5112

Sexual Chocolate wrote: »

Still waiting till restrictions are eased to send my car off for it's paint correction, though most likely next month regardless of rules at this stage.

Anyways, if I did get a ceramic coating is there products I'd have to stop using altogether ?

My method for the paint work is

Snowfoam - Bilt Hamber Auto Foam

Fallout - Reflect Red Ox ( every second or third wash typically)

De-tar - Reflect tar and glue remover but will be switching to Autobrite one soon. (Again every few washes)

Shampoo - Reflects Cherry Bomb

Drying Aid - Reflects Super Cold Wax ( Guessing I'd definitely be dropping this after a ceramic coating ? )

Quick Detailer - Reflect QD

Am considering but some citrus pre-wash to use with a pump sprayer as well.

Was initially going with a single stage correction but may consider a 2 or 3 stage. In saying that though I've seen some impressive results on I.D.E of single stage corrections lately, especially with Scholl S20.

De tar will strip everything....

You most likely won't need it as much depending on coating you go for.

Sexual Chocolate

Still waiting till restrictions are eased to send my car off for it's paint correction, though most likely next month regardless of rules at this stage.

Anyways, if I did get a ceramic coating is there products I'd have to stop using altogether ?

My method for the paint work is

Snowfoam - Bilt Hamber Auto Foam

Fallout - Reflect Red Ox ( every second or third wash typically)

De-tar - Reflect tar and glue remover but will be switching to Autobrite one soon. (Again every few washes)

Shampoo - Reflects Cherry Bomb

Drying Aid - Reflects Super Cold Wax ( Guessing I'd definitely be dropping this after a ceramic coating ? )

Quick Detailer - Reflect QD

Am considering but some citrus pre-wash to use with a pump sprayer as well.

Was initially going with a single stage correction but may consider a 2 or 3 stage. In saying that though I've seen some impressive results on I.D.E of single stage corrections lately, especially with Scholl S20.

Gumbo

markc1184 wrote: »

What's the best way to go about maintaining ceramic coatings? Just had Gtechniq CSL and Exo applied but ceramics are completely new to me.

Agree with what MM has posted above.
It’s costed now so you should have no need for claying, fallout etc

I’d stick with Gtechniq if it was me.

I’d have the following in my bucket :

W4 through my Snow Foam Lance.
GWash as the shampoo.
QD as a drying aid used at every wash.
G6 for the Glass.
C2V3 to apply maybe once a month to boost the base layer.
Exo can also be applied every 3 months.

Sounds a lot but if that’s all you have that’s all you’d need in my opinion.

The lads may offer a differing opinion though.

[Deleted User]

markc1184 wrote: »

What's the best way to go about maintaining ceramic coatings? Just had Gtechniq CSL and Exo applied but ceramics are completely new to me.

Normal washing is fine (first wash should be no sooner than 1 week after application). Don't use clay of any description on it, instead use Gtechniq W6.

Don't use shampoos that nave waxes in them. Gtechniq GWash or CarPro Reset are ideal. I'm a huge Gtechniq fan but I prefer Reset to GWash.

You can top it off with C2V3 after a while too.

markc1184

What's the best way to go about maintaining ceramic coatings? Just had Gtechniq CSL and Exo applied but ceramics are completely new to me.

Stallingrad

A few schools of thought on this, but best leave it for a couple of months to fully cure before doing anything.

slave1

slave1 wrote: »

Honest ta f*k, car prepped for waxing, have looked everywhere and can't find my Collinite 845, AMZ don't ship are reasonable cost which would be my first port of call.
Anywhere here that sells/will ship......

vectra wrote: »

Here

Gumbo wrote: »

I haven’t used Collinite in years. I had it in my silver E90 a few years back. It was so glossy that car looked white from a distance!

I have Petes53 and Chemical Guys Black Light there that I hardly use if it’s any use to you?

Thanks guys, young one got back from her walk and after me searching for hours I offered her an early easter egg if she could find it.
5 minutes later she found it, just under half a bottle after 5 years use

Gumbo

punisher5112 wrote: »

Last time I used it, I was asked numerous times was I selling the vRS....

It’s a lovely product alright.

punisher5112

Gumbo wrote: »

I haven’t used Collinite in years. I had it in my silver E90 a few years back. It was so glossy that car looked white from a distance!

I have Petes53 and Chemical Guys Black Light there that I hardly use if it’s any use to you?

Last time I used it, I was asked numerous times was I selling the vRS....

Gumbo

slave1 wrote: »

Honest ta f*k, car prepped for waxing, have looked everywhere and can't find my Collinite 845, AMZ don't ship are reasonable cost which would be my first port of call.
Anywhere here that sells/will ship......

I haven’t used Collinite in years. I had it in my silver E90 a few years back. It was so glossy that car looked white from a distance!

I have Petes53 and Chemical Guys Black Light there that I hardly use if it’s any use to you?

vectra

slave1 wrote: »

Honest ta f*k, car prepped for waxing, have looked everywhere and can't find my Collinite 845, AMZ don't ship are reasonable cost which would be my first port of call.
Anywhere here that sells/will ship......

Here

slave1

Honest ta f*k, car prepped for waxing, have looked everywhere and can't find my Collinite 845, AMZ don't ship are reasonable cost which would be my first port of call.
Anywhere here that sells/will ship......