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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

is there a simple list of chemicals which you should not get near disc brake pads? i.e. would even something like a detergent cause issues with contamination; i was wondering as i was cleaning the bike earlier if i can be overcautious in cleaning the bike near the brakes.

any tips on looking after a steel frame? my latest purchase has mountings for racks and also a couple of unthreaded holes - should i tape those up to keep water out, or leave them uncovered to let the water out should it get in?

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jamesd

Local bike shop told me that my front hydraulic Flat Mount Brake caliper is leaking and needs replacement but he has issues getting parts now so I said I'd source it myself.
Its a BR-RS505 caliper, can't see one online but I see a newer model in cycle superstore that I expect might work?

https://www.cyclesuperstore.ie/shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=104795

Type 17

Shimano docs say they are compatible/interchangeable.

Before buying, check the two big Torx bolts are fully tight on the old calliper (the silver ones facing the spokes) - I've seen leaks happen when they are loose, and stay fixed when they are tightened properly (don't apply huge torque - torquing them too tight will warp the calliper, causing a different leak).

jamesd

Type 17 wrote: »

Shimano docs say they are compatible/interchangeable.

Before buying, check the two big Torx bolts are fully tight on the old calliper (the silver ones facing the spokes) - I've seen leaks happen when they are loose, and stay fixed when they are tightened properly (don't apply huge torque - torquing them too tight will warp the calliper, causing a different leak).

Thank you, I'll give that a go first and see if that works.

CramCycle

nicksnikita wrote: »

Hi everyone...
My bottle cage bolt seized in the rivnut causing the rivnut to spin in the frame. I cut off the bottle cage and hacksawed the head off the bolt.
The rivnut hole in the carbon frame appears intact.
Where's the best place to source rivnuts in Ireland?
Cheers, Nicholas

Local hardware shop or your buying a pack of 100s for no reason

Type 17 wrote: »

If you want to set a rivnut without a proprietary tool, put an M5 bolt in it, with some grease on the threads, and with 3 or 4 washers that are the same diameter under the head. Screw it down by hand and put it into the hole in the frame.

Use a long (water-pump style or similar) pliers to hold the washers tight, to keep them (and the rivnut) from rotating. Tighten the bolt with an Allen key about 2-3 full turns, and you will have drawn up the bottom of the rivnut and set it in the frame.

Use a nut instead with a washer below it, you can hold the nut in place with a spanner, works really well and very easy to do. You can also do this too retighten loosened rivnuts.

monkeysnapper

Maybe this is right place to ask .....

I took my cassette off yesterday to clean and I realised after spending ages looking for a lost gear cog as I appeared to only have 10 speed on my 11 speed racer .... on my last service my local bike shop put a 10 speed cassette on and used a spacer.....

Whats peoples view on this .... did he bodge or was it fair gain .... this was before pandemic ....

magicbastarder

you don't put a 10 speed cassette on an 11 speed bike. however, as you've taken over a year to notice, i'm not sure what comeback you have.

CantGetNoSleep

jamesd wrote: »

Local bike shop told me that my front hydraulic Flat Mount Brake caliper is leaking and needs replacement but he has issues getting parts now so I said I'd source it myself.
Its a BR-RS505 caliper, can't see one online but I see a newer model in cycle superstore that I expect might work?

https://www.cyclesuperstore.ie/shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=104795

Are you in a rush for that? I have an RS505 in the parts box, think it is unused. Trouble is I'm abroad so would need a while to get it to you.

fat bloke

magicbastarder wrote: »

you don't put a 10 speed cassette on an 11 speed bike. however, as you've taken over a year to notice, i'm not sure what comeback you have.

Cripes, the bike must have stayed in the shed for the year. Sure the indexing would be all over the place if the rest of the groupset is 11 speed.:eek:

monkeysnapper

magicbastarder wrote: »

you don't put a 10 speed cassette on an 11 speed bike. however, as you've taken over a year to notice, i'm not sure what comeback you have.

I don't want any come back .... what you said is correct ... it has made me more determined to start doing my own jobs ... I bought a cycle tool set and its time I started using it...

The shop has a good reputation so maybe it was a mistake, maybe it was a member of staff in rush .

I need the shop more than they need me so I'll just put it down to myself not being clued up enough and cop onto things .. .

monkeysnapper

fat bloke wrote: »

Cripes, the bike must have stayed in the shed for the year. Sure the indexing would be all over the place if the rest of the groupset is 11 speed.:eek:

Embarrassinly enough id done 3500 km on it if not more last year.... plus have used it on turbo all this year of over another 1500 ha ha

Invincible

What's the best way of removing rust from chrome parts without scratches, bike left in she'd last couple of months.

cletus

Invincible wrote: »

What's the best way of removing rust from chrome parts without scratches, bike left in she'd last couple of months.

Ball up some tinfoil loosely, wet it, and rub the chrome

Invincible

What's the best way of removing rust from chrome parts without scratches, bike left in she'd last couple of months.

cletus

Invincible wrote: »

What's the best way of removing rust from chrome parts without scratches, bike left in she'd last couple of months.

Like I said, wet tinfoil. It won't scratch the chrome, it's too soft, but it will lift the rust spots, as long as its surface rust, and the chrome isn't peeling or anything

Invincible

What's the best way of removing rust from chrome parts without scratches, bike left in shed last couple of months.

Type 17

A lot of that chrome is gone, and tinfoil (or wire wool*, my weapon of choice) will only remove the orangey look, but there will be brown rust underneath, which won't be going anywhere. It's only cosmetic, and won't affect the functioning of the bike.

*If you use wire wool, get fine stuff (grade 00 or finer) in a hardware shop (it's used to prepare wood for painting) - Brillo or other scouring products are grade 3 or 4, and will scratch everything to bits.

PS: There seems to be a fault in the forum software right now, where new posts aren't appearing until you refresh the page.

cletus

The red circles are too far gone, chrome is damaged.

Green circle could be saved by the method I've outlined twice now

ednwireland

run of bad luck or incompetence (take your pick !)

forgot i didn't have to take the fixing bolt out of the drive side of my bb30 crankset, replaced bearings, went to put fixing bolt back in won't go in threads in crank knackered - this hasn't been touched since it left the factory (i assume). came out ok 3was a little stiff but just trashing the threads going back in ......

cletus

ednwireland wrote: »

run of bad luck or incompetence (take your pick !)

forgot i didn't have to take the fixing bolt out of the drive side of my bb30 crankset, replaced bearings, went to put fixing bolt back in won't go in threads in crank knackered - this hasn't been touched since it left the factory (i assume). came out ok 3was a little stiff but just trashing the threads going back in ......

How badly trashed? Do you have a tap and die set?

ednwireland

cletus wrote: »

How badly trashed? Do you have a tap and die set?

no idea managed to find a spindle and new bolts on a german website i do have a tap and die somewhere wonder if its the right thread ....

although on a better note i can now change bb30 bearings in about 15mins if i dont break something

nicksnikita

"Use a nut instead with a washer below it, you can hold the nut in place with a spanner, works really well and very easy to do. You can also do this too retighten loosened rivnuts." [/QUOTE]

Does the nut need to be threaded onto the M5 bolt or does it need to be bigger than the bolt or does it not matter?

Cheers

Type 17

nicksnikita wrote: »

Does the nut need to be threaded onto the M5 bolt or does it need to be bigger than the bolt or does it not matter?

Cheers

It should be bigger than the M5 bolt, so use an M6 one - the idea is that the rivnut remains still whilst the M5 bolt is rotated, to draw the bottom of the rivnut up, to set it in the frame.
Holding the washers or nut still (and greasing the threads of the bolt) helps ensure that the rivnut doesn't turn with the bolt.

CramCycle

Type 17 wrote: »

It should be bigger than the M5 bolt, so use an M6 one - the idea is that the rivnut remains still whilst the M5 bolt is rotated, to draw the bottom of the rivnut up, to set it in the frame.
Holding the washers or nut still (and greasing the threads of the bolt) helps ensure that the rivnut doesn't turn with the bolt.

+1 I found the solution from my Dad (and confirmed by YouTube) after several bike shops had suggested sending the bike back to the manufacturer. Eventually the rivnut wore through the frame but I got another year and then a poster popped a bigger one in for me.

G-Man

Where do I find spokes online locally in ireland or dublin locally in a shop. Its for a cargo ebike rear wheel.

SAPIM 224 13g rear spokes for urban arrow

They should be inexpensive, so I will buy 10 or so for spares.

I guess I dont have to take the wheel off (its complicated with a nuvinci hub) and of course a very heavy frame ?

CramCycle

G-Man wrote: »

Where do I find spokes online locally in ireland or dublin locally in a shop. Its for a cargo ebike rear wheel.

SAPIM 224 13g rear spokes for urban arrow

They should be inexpensive, so I will buy 10 or so for spares.

I guess I dont have to take the wheel off (its complicated with a nuvinci hub) and of course a very heavy frame ?

Bee Cycles or Dutch Bike Shop would be worth contacting.

barryribs

Hi all,

looking for some advice. I found my brothers old bike at my parents house at the weekend and its in very rough shape and I'm wondering if it is worth fixing.

From looking at it, it will need;
New wheels + tyres
New brake pads
New chain
Possibly new rear derailleur

Do you guys think this something an amateur could do or would I need to bring it to a shop? The bike is nothing spectacular, its more sentimental than anything.The pads and tyres I should be fine with, albeit the rear wheel's bolt is rounded - a bridge to cross another day. So my questions are:

I'm assuming that if I were to change the chain, it would have to be the same/similar length?
How can I tell which model of derailleur I can replace the current one with?
Is it actually worth doing this, or am I better off letting it go?

magicbastarder

stick a photo up here; it sounds like you're already looking at over €150 for low end kit anyway, and the bike may not be worth spending that on.

barryribs

magicbastarder wrote: »

stick a photo up here; it sounds like you're already looking at over €150 for low end kit anyway, and the bike may not be worth spending that on.

Thanks, I appreciate the ball park figure too. I'll try to get a few pictures up later this week. I reckon its been in the shed for 7 years at this point.

loyatemu

Invincible wrote: »

What's the best way of removing rust from chrome parts without scratches, bike left in she'd last couple of months.

cletus wrote: »

Ball up some tinfoil loosely, wet it, and rub the chrome

Invincible wrote: »

What's the best way of removing rust from chrome parts without scratches, bike left in she'd last couple of months.

cletus wrote: »

Like I said, wet tinfoil. It won't scratch the chrome, it's too soft, but it will lift the rust spots, as long as its surface rust, and the chrome isn't peeling or anything

Invincible wrote: »

What's the best way of removing rust from chrome parts without scratches, bike left in shed last couple of months.

[Deleted User]

Grips for a hybrid with the bar ends combined, any recommendations and brown if possible :rolleyes: