DrPhilG wrote: » Also what would you say is a reasonable time frame/rate for the spark to wire up the 3rd stat and fit the control hub? Day? Half a day? 3 weeks plus overtime lol?
championc wrote: » Does your chosen Sparks know about what your plumber is doing ? I would have thought that a decent plumber would know how to wire it all up and then test and have it running the way you want it. IMO you could be heading for trouble if your sparks and plumber are not working together because the plumber will have nothing to do with it once the sparks "owns" it
cuffeb wrote: » Hi Been interested in doing this a while now but need some advice. I've got a boiler stove which heats hot water first to 60-65 deg. then ground floor then upstairs heating. Boiler switches off when temperature has been met and is all controlled by a system link. All this work was done around 6 years ago and we have been in the house since. I'm looking at upgrading my existing heating controls from an EPH 3 zone to a Drayton wiser 2 zone + hot water. Is this a straight swap of stats & controller or is there more to it? I need to be sure it doesn't interfere with the stove's interaction with the pumps when its on. Cheers
deezell wrote: » Have you two boilers? a stove and an oil boiler? Are there wall stats and hw cylinder stats associated with the zones.
chuck eastwood wrote: » Hope you guys don't mind me jumping in in this. Deezell you have just described my exact set up and I have been unsure of what smart controls might suit so any advice would be greatly appreciated
DrPhilG wrote: » Plumber coming today to add the 3rd valve for hot water but the spark isn't here til next week to connect the new controls. If the plumber adds the Wiser TRVs today can they just function as a dumb system until later when the system is hooked up?
deezell wrote: » Is the plumber fitting TRV valve bodies to the rads? Assuming you only have screw down types at the moment. Once you fit the valve bodies, you van fit the trv heads. They won't be active until you power them up, and the HubR, and pair them to one of the zones, which will allow you to schedule the TRV valve open and closed, but without firing the boiler. until the sparks arrives and hooks the zone valves' relays. Without the TRV heads the TRV valves are open to flow.
DrPhilG wrote: » Gotcha. So if he just fits the valves, they're permanently open until the heads go on?
deezell wrote: » Its a simple enough install. You could replace the two wall stats with Tado wired smart stats, just set the eph to always on for both CH ch zones, and continue to use it for HW timing only. Alternatively you could instal Drayton wiser kit 3, its 3 zone receiver is a simple replacement for the EPH. The zone wall stats are wireless, so you can experiment with optimal locations. The old stats are either turned up full or removed and their wires joined and concealed. The stove boiler part of this system remains the same, it's control is unaltered by changing the controller. It probably has boiler override built in via the wiring centre, where the stove will mute the oil boiler if it had sufficient output.
deezell wrote: » No bother. It's my Bob Geldof moment in life, like 'Smart aid' or 'Heat aid'. Anyone want to write a song? What rhymes with Tado....
chris_ie wrote: » Had the plumber out today. He’s going to move the downstairs valve so that it won’t always heat downstairs when back boiler is used. I mentioned adding new valve for hot water and he reckoned there wouldn’t be much point as most of the time you’d want water heating along with central heating. It was something I always wondered about too. If we want to heat water but not house, then two zone valves closed would do that. What scenario would you want to heat house but not water? Most of the time if we need heat on, we want hot water too. Am I missing something?
deezell wrote: » No, it's ok, HW will heat to the temperature of the circulation water, which may be lower than required by the cylinder stat while all rads are open, but equally could be higher than required, especially if the CH zones have trvs and with say only a few rads open the circulation water could be close the the boiler limit setting. This is often 65-70°, which may be too hot for your cylinder max. If the cylinder stat is set for 55°, this will only be possible during a HW only event. You can turn the max flow temperature of the boiler down, this will in effect cap the HW temperature to a lower safer level, but may prolong CH heatup response times as the boiler might be prevented from working at full output if its circulation water is limited to the mid 50s. A HW zone valve ensures full temperature independence of the HW. One other issue that arises with a permanently open cylinder coil in a single pump circulation system is the lack of circulation pressure to distant radiators due to the open large bore cylinder circuit, especially if the cylinder is adjacent to the boiler, or is tapped straight accross the flow and return prior to distribution to the radiators. There are lots of variations on the plumbing of cylinders, valved, open pumped fed, open gravity fed, limit valve on the coil to increase rad pressure, a venturi tee, to prevent reverse flow and cooling of HW by the returning pumped cooled CH water. I'm not going to explain or debate these. Suffice to say that all of these plumbing layouts and other boiler temperature control and priority winkles become irrelevant if a full s plan zoning is implemented., but you probably would hardly notice it.
chris_ie wrote: » So it’ll be fine without it? Or should I insist on having it added? I couldn’t disagree with him at the time as it made sense what he said I don’t have a cylinder stat at the minute. Only stat we have is on the back boiler pipe.
DrPhilG wrote: » On a side note (and not automation related) does anyone have a solid fuel stove? I had one put in to replace the open fire a few years back and the installer put in a vent out behind the stove. I get that there needs to be air flow but doesn't this entirely defeat the purpose of closing up the open fire in the first place? There is a noticeable cool draft when the stove isn't lit.
deezell wrote: » If the inside end of the vent is visible and accessible, fit a shuttered vent cover over it.
DrPhilG wrote: » Yeah it's accessible. I'll get a shuttered one. Also need to address the water that's dropping down into the cavity behind the stove which is a more pressing concern!
deezell wrote: » Yikes. Lead flashing on the stove chimney? If it is a chimney, or is there just a stove flue pipe exiting through the wall above the stove?
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