Caillte wrote: » It is max 10 rooms assigned to 1 smart wall thermostat. I have 14 TRVs (in 13 rooms/hallways) split between 2 smart wall thermostats. I sent which TRVs i wanted to be controlled by which wall thermostats to tado and they set it up to work that way (so that a TRV in zone 2 doesn't call for heat in zone 1 etc. etc.)
Fujitsu10 wrote: » Thanks for the info. I have 12 TRV's in total (rooms/halway etc also) and only 1 wireless thermostat. I set this up myself with the help of @deezel (Thanks again). I have doubled up on rooms with regard to the TRV's to go to a maximum of 10 room. My question now is this. If I input a manual request for heating (outside the schedule) at a particular room via the app, do I also need to input an increase of temp at the wireless stat?
chris_ie wrote: » @deezell at the risk of wrecking your head does the following photo show anything that would be an issue installing the tado? Programmer connections. Programmer and two wall switches to control upstairs and downstairs valves
deezell wrote: » I'll have a look back at the posts, but, iirc, this is a bit of a bodge
deezell wrote: » I'll have a look back at the posts, but, iirc, this is a bit of a bodge. Single timer alone fires the boiler, switches just open zone valves, no valve relay signalling to the boiler to fire it when a valve opens, no stats in the circiit anywhere, and HW is heated all the time boiler fires. Its needs more than a simple substitution of two smart stats and HW relay, additional wiring at least, and a HW valve to achieve proper 3 zone S plan.
chris_ie wrote: » Thanks deezel, yep no stats, switches just open valves and don’t fire boiler. Can have HW only or HW and CH (not CH only) I’m wondering would it be a big job to sort properly. Guess I’d need a plumber in initially then electrician for wiring based on what plumber says?
steve584 wrote: » My Wiser is to be delivered in the next few days and I'm just preparing myself to install it. Any help would be appreciated. I know the live and neutral will need to be swapped. Would I be correct in that I just need to swap the red wire to the free terminal?
deezell wrote: » Yes, wall plate from left is N, L, brown Junper wire from L to 2, red wire to 3 Terminal 2 on wiser plate not used.
steve584 wrote: » Thanks Deezel, should that be terminal 4 not used?
deezell wrote: » Just another zone valve, valve relays wired to fire the boiler, then add a 3 zone system, 2 ch stats and HW, to control the three valves. Put a €20 wired mechanical stat on the HW cylinder for finer control. Wireless CH stats to make life easy. Drayton wiser Kit 3, Hive, Tado )with max one wireless, plus one wired stat), or Nest with two full stat systems (pricey).
deezell wrote: » Sorry, typo. Live Jumper goes to 1, Common, red wire ro 3, CH On or Normally Open. 2 and 4 unused .
chris_ie wrote: » You make it sound so simple Valves and hot water are on second floor in hot press and switches etc are downstairs in utility room. I'll see if I can get someone in whenever things open up.
deezell wrote: » Haha, do I detect sarcasm? Its always a pita to add additional cables, but if you hire a sparks, he'd have an eye for channels, re using wires from redundant parts etc. The key is finding a path for a single SLfrom the 2 ( or 3) zone valves. The 3 zone receiver can be sited next to the valves. Stats are wireless. The combined valve relays SL back to the boiler can use one of the old live wires from the niw redundant switches next to the timer. The current boiler sl is at that timer. So just linking this to the repurposed for valve switching wire completes the circuit. The old timer is just removed. Fitting an extra valve to the HW coil is a doddle, and its control voltage from the receiver, as well as its path to fire the boiler, are all located there. If you decide to leave HW on for all events, no vslve, you can. Just combine HW Sl to the two CH zone relays SLs back to the boiler Sl out at the old timer as descibed earlier. This will give HW on independently or whenever a CH zone is on. I'd consider it worth adding the extra valve, a €60 item plus fitting. Also a cylinder stat, again its all in the same place. A knowledgeable heating installer might fit the valve and redo the wiring in one go. If you go for the drayton kit 3, or any of them,you could have it installed in advance, stats on walls and paired, zone SLs testing for on and off, ready to wire to zone valve actuators and take of from white switches.
godtabh wrote: » Hi, new to this. Getting the house rewired and I want to automate the heating. As far as I can tell there are 3 zones (thermostat up stairs/down stairs) and a hot water cylinder. What are the best options these days
championc wrote: » How many rads ?
Caillte wrote: » If you have a tado smart wall thermostat no you dont its automatic. The TRV sends the signal to the wall thermostat and it sends the signal to the motorised valve and then it calls for heat from the boiler. That's what mine does anyway.
chris_ie wrote: » .....Edit to add : Is there anything to be careful of here with regards to the back boiler also?
deezell wrote: » I'd forgotten about the boiler. That needs at least to have a gravity feed to the HW cylinder. If you are adding an extra valve for HW from the automated controller it can't cut the flow from the stove. Ideally, you should have a cylinder with two heating coils. If a stove needs to push heat to the rads, there are various ways it can be mixed with the flow from the oil boiler. It should have its own pump and a pipe stat to operate it. A couple of one way valves can prevent back flow from the oil boiler to the stove jacket. Some rads would need to be open for stove flow, if you have TRVs, they might all be closed when the stove is burning. The best system for blending stove and boiler is to use a manifold mixer, a small tank like unit. There are good schematic system diagrams here.https://www.nrgawareness.com/
Fujitsu10 wrote: » I have noticed that it can take around 10 minutes or more before the boiler fires sometimes. Not sure if this is correct, seems a long time to have to wait. In any case it does work as you describe. I'll let well enough alone now and see how it performs in the coming weeks.
championc wrote: » That's definitely not right I'd say, no matter what system it is. I've got Tado and it's literally 5 to 10 secs between me maybe turning a TRV on / Increasing the temperature and the actuator in the TRV actually opening (and if necessary firing the boiler)
Fujitsu10 wrote: » The TRV operates within 5 to 10 seconds ok, but the boiler certainly takes longer. It seems to vary. The only other thing I notice is that some of the TRV's go offline and back on again. The bridge is located (set vertically) in the attic at the moment (that was the only place I could locate it at present, as the router is there). It is possible that the signal between the receiver and the bridge isn't great, but I have no way of knowing. It would be great if Tado gave diagnostic info for signal strength etc on the app. The info for trouble shooting is very limited. I plan on relocating the bridge if needed.
chris_ie wrote: » We have a three coil cylinder. Ready for solar panels too. The pipe from the stove has a thermostat which kicks on a pump. The pipe from that pump appears to be under the downstairs valve which might explain why downstairs heats regardless of the downstairs valve being on or not. With this having two coils would it just be a case of having a few rads open all the time downstairs? I realize that they’d be open for the oil too. Two photos attached show the cylinder and the pump and valves.
championc wrote: » If it's any consolation, my bridge is also in the attic. You could use the app to flash the displays on TRV's. Maybe check your firmware versions TRV's - 75.2 Smart Thermostat - 76.1 Internet Bridge - 60.7 Extension Kit - 71.2 App version 6.3.3 (1500603030) For me, Tado support had to push the Firmware to the extension kit initially. It's updated a few times since itself.
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