crighton wrote: » General warning.... .....He said Energia has been operating a questionable promotion where they offer you a deal on Energia-Netatmo fit out when in fact they are clawing back & profiting of your 250 euro gov subsidy without you being aware of your eligibility.
deezell wrote: » From your October post, you have a 3 zone system, 3 valves, 2 CH stats and a HW stat, all running off one mechanical timer? If so, you only need to wire your two new stats in place of the old ones, bring the power to the HW valve from the ext kit HW NO, via the cylinder stat, (with ext kit live looped to HW Com.) Short the old timer relay in out live wires. Or leave it on permanently.
deezell wrote: » Its possible this latter step was not done in your system, and the boiler was fired directly from the single timer, with the stats just opening their respective valves, the valve relays unused. This setup would mean the boiler firing even when all 3 valves were closed. Have another look at your system, listing wire colours is of little help if you don't post images,..
Type 901 wrote: » That was right but got a new boiler and they put in a simple on/off/boost digital timer but don't think this it was wired the same as before. Previously could leave constant on and boiler seemed to fire when wall stat/HW stat needed heat - as far as I could see. Now when constant on the boiler still fires when all valves closed. Have attached photo of the current wall timer wiring. As far as I can see locations are filled as - N - fused mains live L - fused main and boiler neutral 1 - boiler live 2 - empty 3 - Boiler heat live return and brown wire (? - assume from valve terminal) Have looked at the HW Stat/Valve and Zone Valves terminal blocks - mapping looks as below. Grey/Orange don't seem to be used, so looks that relays where not used - can see cut in HW terminal block image. There is two 4-core cables running from zone valve terminals to boiler timer I think which could be used if not wired right.HW Stat and Valve terminal block Wiring from|1|2|3|4 Stat|Black|Brown| |Y/G Valve|Brown| |Blue | Zone valves block||Brown|Blue |Y/GZone Valves terminal block Wiring from|1|2|3|4|5 HW Valve/Stat|Y&G|Blue |Brown | | Zone 1 valve| |Blue | |Brown| Zone 2 valve| |Blue | | |Brown
Type 901 wrote: » Have attached photo of the current wall timer wiring. As far as I can see locations are filled as -
John mac wrote: » could be im wrong , but is N = Neutral = Blue L=Live= Brown . ?
masterboy123 wrote: » Hello All, I have successfully connected to Wiser Heating system and its working 100% A special thanks to Deezell and Championc for going beyond the limits to help me out. So the issue is with Huawei routers which doesn't have a stable connection with Wiser. The customer service agent from Wiser has highlighted this to me and advised to get a WiFi Extender (from any other brand), therefore I bought TP Link Wi-Fi extender today and it worked within seconds. Happy days Attached is a screenshot from Wiser app
deezell wrote: » Its likely the zone valve relays were never used, or were cut out when the last bit of work was done. Grey/Orange valve relay contact wires are there from the HW valve, I can't see the cut ends of the CH valve cables in the other photo, they could be there cut off also, though it's possible that those valves have no relay. Check if this is so, if the CH valves are different from the HW valve . It's really not acceptable that a new boiler install would not include an S plan wire up, but instead just a bodge on your previous wiring. The valves are there, the relays most likely are there on all of them. If you want an easy life, and a diy rewire, get a Lex box like this, to wire all stats, valves, boiler, pump and other bits to. Worth every penny
Type 901 wrote: » Thanks having a look! So.... ....Question now is could I just use these to take the grey or orange from the valves down to the boiler timer when installing the extension kit? Of course colours won't be correct but can label to reflect.
deezell wrote: You'll need to wire up appropriately as per the s plan image I posted, with an extra CH zone. … . Wiring the two Tado stats in place of the old stats would be the easiest option as these are already wired to open the CH valves. ALL firing of the boiler must come only from the valve relays, with permanent live to one of all relay contacts, say, all the Grey, and a combination of the other contacts, all the Orange, to the boiler. This is required to insure there is no crossing of zone calls, with a call from one zone unintentionally opening the valve of another zone.
deezell wrote: Did you day the original wiring was in a NEW house? They saved about €50 by bodging the wiring with a cheap timer instead of a 3 zone timer, and dodgeing the zone relays. Wiring centres are a joke also, big clumps of connector strips. I don't know how an engineer can sign off on a DIY install like that.
crighton wrote: » General warning - Just had our 2nd Netatmo break in 18mths, this time is simply stopped working. The unit is apprx 1 year old. Previous time it burnt out posing a fire risk [Energia said they sent that unit for tech review but were unable to confirm what caused it]. A few things to be aware of and to note: The independent boiler service guy this time said many of his callouts are currently replacing broken Netatmo units. The Energia-Netatmo service people appear either untrained or lack expertise in fitting etc. He said Energia has been operating a questionable promotion where they offer you a deal on Energia-Netatmo fit out when in fact they are clawing back & profiting of your 250 euro gov subsidy without you being aware of your eligibility.
championc wrote: » It's not often you'd think you'd say that you can't wait for the next gas bill to come, but I am seriously interested in the impact of my Tado TRV's. While Tado reckoned I'd saved only 1.8% in November, that would only be savings made by Tado itself with it's Geofencing or open window detection. What I am more interested in is the savings made by leaving rooms freezing cold when previously they would have been heated as part of downstairs or whole house heating. In addition, rooms are definitely more level in temperature during the evening. And overall, with absolutely nothing to base it on, but I feel that the weather this year at present is colder than last year.
Alkers wrote: » Do you unoccupied rooms with no heating? Is there not a min recommended? I have mine at 12c just chose that at random.
ted1 wrote: » how insulated are the doors, floors and internal walls?
Bluefoam wrote: » How much are Energia charging?.... ....THe fitter mentioned to me that he believes the grants will be stopped. So subsidised Thermostats may not be offered in future by the energy companies.
ted1 wrote: » They use the EEOS scheme aswell.https://www.seai.ie/business-and-public-sector/business-grants-and-supports/energy-efficiency-obligation-scheme/
grogi wrote: » Assuming you have S-Plan connectivity, in the junction box you probably have a jumper from 6 to 8, which would need to be disconnected and two core wire attached that woould terminate at the stat.
raytaxi wrote: » would I be right that its this box I need to change wiring in ?Attachment not found. rather than behind the wiser
raytaxi wrote: » My existing system is the last one and zone one is hot water, just need to run cable to Stat on cylinder then between 6 on each board. So that when water is at heat it opens and goes off ? The stat you have pictured can the probe go into a cylinder pocket as mines fully insulated and has 3 pockets for stats.
deezell wrote: » You can latch the valves open to convert everywhere to a single zone. It this case the old stats can be left full on or removed. What's currently firing the boiler, the ext kit? I'd use its CH on as live to fire the boiler on behalf of the TRVs, but also use its HW contacts to open and close the HW valve. You'd then need to wire the HW valve relay (currently unused) to fire the boiler to get HW only operation when all the rads (bar two) are closed. If you don't want these two to heat during a HW only timed event, connect the CH on from the ext kit to both CH valves, then no radiators will heat during a HW only call, and only the active TRV rads plus the open two rads will heat during any CH event. If you continue to use the two CH valves, turn old stats up full or short their wires to maintain a connection of CH ON live from the ext kit, which formerly was supplied by the output of the old single timer.
deezell wrote: » Check out the previous discussion with RayTaxi, his situation is identical, 3 zone valves, but a single old timer firing the boiler, the zone valves controlled by stats but the valves themselves not connected to fire the boiler when called, in a proper S plan setup. If you keep the valves, and seperate the operation of the HW valve from the CH valves, you can have independent HW only in the summer. HW valve can be operated by a cylinder stat, in combination with the currently unused HW timer terminal of the ext kit. The CH terminal of the kit can be used to open both the CH valves, but to achieve independent firing of the boiler, the valve relays will have to be wired in S plan to fire it, no direct connection from the ext kit. This way when no TRVs are calling for heat, all rads will be closed, and a call for HW will only open the HW valve.
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