deezell wrote: » The stove can't be controlled by the Netatmo, when you light it, the heat has to go somewhere. Is it a boiler stove? If so it will have a relay that powers the circulation pump pushing the stove water around the rads. If the rooms heat past the Netatmo temperatures, then the Netatmo won't turn on the oil/gas boiler, but it can't halt the stove heat going to the non TRV open rads. What you can do though is have the stove thermostat wired to cut the live to the Netatmo receiver relay so it doesn't fire the boiler when the stove is supplying heated water, say above 50°. With your current setup a TRV room will not allow stove heated water through until its schedule, and then will probably fire the boiler anyway. Using the stove stat to cur the live will allow the TRVs open on their schedule but get their heated water from the stove until is dies down, whence it will revert to using the oil/gas boiler. If your stove is not a boiler stove, you could still install a manual room stat close to the stove to detect it's heat when lit and override the Netatmo.
Irish Gunner wrote: » Not a boiler stove so not connected to any heating of rads water etc Was looking at the Netatmo app and I can create another schedule so have one for stove and one for non stove etc Trying to figure out if I switch between the 2 does it revert to that schedule. So if I have it on non stove heating works on that schedule then when we light the stove I change this to Stove and heating reverts to that and rads downstairs dont come on if heat is high Have different temp sets for Comfort,Night,Comfort+ and ECO and can adjust each valve accordingly. Only way to turn off the heat is to bring the Thermo temp down to zero but that switches everything off Trying to get in touch with Netatmo to see if there how schedule works
deezell wrote: » Seems like return is the only option. Without a direct connection, other than when using the hubr as an AP to the app, there is no direct way to say reinstall firmware or allow Wiser support to Connect remotely to it. I don't see any instructions for a factory reset of the hub, except a reference to it in Drayton support that it be done only in conjunction with support, but no how to instructions. Its probably pointless, but disconnecting it and trying it out with just mains power in a different location beside the router would be my last effort before boxing up and returning. You could also go to a friend's house, just to try a different router. It's like its rejecting the network, as if it had a different one already in its memory. I cant see that attached image btw.
deezell wrote: » Looks like thats that. Last thing I can think of is to turn off security on your Wi-Fi, no key required. When you fill in the SSID and key in the configuration, does it check that they are correct, or will it let you proceed if you enter a deliberate error. There could be some little thing in these fields, case of a letter, or a leading space, or poxy Android autofill sticking in what it thinks you entered at the last moment. I've had this happen with an email address while trying to login, autofill banging in the wrong one.
masterboy123 wrote: » I have done hard reset now by pressing Setup button for more than 20 seconds and constant red light was there which indicatesd reset is done. Then I had to reset the room thermostats by pressing + & - together for 20 seconds and then adding the 2 thermostats to HubR. Everything went well until this stage. But again as soon as I connect back to my home WiFi, the HubR is no longer recognised! I feel this system is defective. I may return and get a replacement. That's the only option I see. Their customer service has stopped replying to my messages also at this stage. Or maybe they on to their developers. I have read reviews for the Wiser Heat app on android and it appears many people are experiencing this issue. One of the reviewer said to put the phone on Flight Mode then connecting the WiFi, I did this but no luck!
fran426ft wrote: » I recently added temperature sensors to my HW Cylinder using a Sonoff TH-16 hacked with Tasmota. With Tasmota you can hang multiple DS18B20 sensor off the one GPIO making it easy to add multiple. I've two at the moment, one towards the top and on in the middle, a bit above the bottom of the HW heating coil. I will probably add a 3rd as I'm interested to get the temperature further towards the bottom of the tank where the solar hot water coil is. I've it reporting back to home assistant via MQTT so I can graph them up but my HW isn't zoned so when the boiler is on it always heats the water. I may get it zoned in future but I don't worry about the cylinder temperature right now. During the summer I plan to automate it so if in the morning the HW isn't hot enough from the solar panels the day before the boiler will turn on and heat the HW only enough for a shower and not the whole house. Then I may also add some checks so if the tank hasn't got to 60-65deg at any stage over a set period that it take it up to a hotter temperature to prevent legionnaires. Like you see, the temperature towards the bottom of the heating coil drops significantly when someone has a shower. I also replaced my old boiler controller with a sonoff running Tasmota and my thermostats with sonoffs to control zone valves for upstairs and downstairs. I've some logic running on the tasmota devices but all are integrated with homeassistant and google home so I can set up automations, monitor and control remotely etc. It's been fun getting into the DIY home automation but it is definitely not for everyone.
championc wrote: » Sorry, jumping into this thread late - Older (non-updated) wifi wouldn't be supporting WPA2-PSK, and possibly not even WPA. I wonder might it only support WEP ? Can you add a secondary SSID on the 2.4ghz band ? The other option is that it only is supporting 802.11b and g - so not 802.11n
deezell wrote: » He has WPA2-PSK on his router, it is connecting intermittently, then dropping. It"s unlikely to be signal strength, 5m with a wall between devices. Trying it with a clear channel, or with a different AP didn't work eirher, it would be hard to blame the router at this stage, unless there's an option in the app config that is being overlooked, but then you'd expect simply no connection. It's unlikely the hub expects anything more than a basic Wi-Fi bandwidth, its not exactly streaming video, so it wouldn't require the higher band or higher data rates. Router would need to be ancient to only deliver a or b.. A clincher would be to try it on a completely different brand of router, and if it fails, its the hub. It's already failed on a Wi-Fi hot spot.
championc wrote: » It's certainly not a signal strength issue. But I was merely suggesting the older standards from a compatability point of view. The speed will handshake first before the WPA2 4 way handshake. If the device initially "appears" to connect, it would therefore imply that the 802.11 modes are fine, and that the connection is potentially breaking down during the WPA2 handshake. Unfortunately, I think most recent versions of Android only support WPA2 for Wifi Hotspot implementation, so changing the mode on the router to test may be the only option.
masterboy123 wrote: » At present I have a 5ghz SSID and 2.4Ghz SSID (different names). Is it possible to add another SSID at 2.4Ghz?
deezell wrote: » Good luck. Last suggestion, If you rig up a two wire mains connection with a 3 pin plug to the hub, and disconnect temporarily from it's current location, power it up near the router and see does it connect, (it wont 'know' that it's not yet wired to the zone valves). If it does work nearer the router, you might then be able to extend the three valve connection wires to it, bring the mountain to Mohamed etc.
masterboy123 wrote: » Unfortunately I couldn't get hold on a WiFi extender. Do you recommend I order one from Amazon and give it a try? Regarding your suggestion below, I feel I am not competent enough to do it. Did you mean to buy an empty 3 pin socket and connect live and neutral wire to it? And then plug that 3 pin plug to a power source?
deezell wrote: » Yes, or if you have an old appliance or lamp with a plug and a metre of wire, cut it off and wire the L and N brown and blue to the hubr after disconnecting and removing it. just plug it in then somewhere near the router, and go through the config. That will test if the router is in need of a stronger signal. The hubr wont know if the 3 valve wires are not connected. It if still fails then it's not a signal strength problem. If you didn't install this yourself, you could ask someone to do it, its simple enough wiring.
Type 901 wrote: » This is the kit I bought, was the more expensive one. The wireless receiver does seem to have CH and HW control but doesn't use the standard backplate. Diagram attached.https://www.amazon.co.uk/tado%C2%B0-Wireless-Thermostat-Starter-Assistant/dp/B08LP1LS5T This was the cheaper one which I assume has the standard backing plate. And one I should have got?https://www.amazon.co.uk/tado%C2%B0-Thermostat-Extension-Wireless-Receiver/dp/B07VXBMC14/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=tado+hot+water&qid=1607264459&sr=8-3
deezell wrote: » They're just links to the ads, no backplates diagrams shown. Can you show us backplate image and the back pins image of the one you received
Type 901 wrote: » Photo attached - all wires go direct to unit and then just cover clips on. Rather backing plate used that I've seen in the extension kits.
deezell wrote: » It's a more versatile kit though, both relays are volt free, on a par with nest. It can facilitate priorty wiring
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