deezell wrote: » If money is no object, go for the Evohome. A 12 rad max kit plus the HW relay system with HW temperature sensor and display will do everything you ask for about €1k, installation not included. If your rads already have manual TRVs, then its a technical install, no plumbing required. If your rads have screw tap like valves, each rad will need one TRV valve body to take a TRV head. A job for the plumber while he installs your attic plumbing. I count 13 rads, so you may need to leave a selected rad open, which will heat for any TRV activity in its zone. Towel rail might suit, its normal to have one rad open in a full TRV installation so the circuit is never fully closed. Some towel rails may have awkward connections for a TRV valve body, or it may look unsightly on the rail. You will need to latch your existing CH motorised zone valves to permanently open, but the HW zone valve can be retained. The Eddie will continue to function as normal, though you will now be able to see the Hot water temperature rise associated with diverted solar PV energy from the Eddie. 1. You will need a TRV per rad, otherwise open rads will heat for any room call. 2. See above. 3. Evohome HW control has a temperature sensor.
baldshin wrote: » Here's how he has it wired up. Certainly differently to your diagram. I've emailed them back and requested a refund and will possibly have a look myself at sorting tomorrow if time allows.
digiman wrote: » My existing radiator valves are exactly like the one in this page here:https://www.screwfix.ie/p/eph-controls-emtrv15-white-angled-trv-lockshield-15mm-x-/134HP?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIv7zzr9We7QIVjMLtCh1-CQMPEAQYKCABEgL0rPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Does this go down as a technical install? So can you see the hot water temp in the app itself? Would be interested to see this trend overtime as the Eddie heats up the water. Is installing that temperature sensor for the hot water tank a technical install as well? At this stage the Honeywell evohome seems to be about 3 years old. Is there anything else that has come out or due to come out that would be as good but have newer features?
deezell wrote: » I've read post expressing concern at the lack of upgrade of the Evohome, but if it's not broken, etc.. You could achieve the same system with Drayton Wiser or Tado, a goid few quid less, but no measurement of cylinder HW temperature on their apps. A cheap Sonoff device and sensor will give you a Sonoff app to read this. The Evohome sensor just pops onto the cylinder surface (CS92) or into a sensor port (ATF500DHW) on your cylinder. Your valves are ready for the TRV heads, so no plumbing, just fit the heads as per instructions, the rest is techie stuff, but DIY-able.
legend99 wrote: » You're a Tado man right? How come you'd pick Evohome?
deezell wrote: » I didn't, it's what the man wanted, with HW temperature readout, and he didn't mind the cost, so.. Another reason, if you're going to have 10-12 or thereabouts individual zones, its probably convenient to have a fixed purpose display with multiple zones on screen such as the Evohome terminal, with other systems you only have the wall stats or the app. You could of course plug in a cheap android tablet sitting in a stand and have the Tado web interface always on with loads of zones, but that's a bodge, not a product. Tado can do HW temperature btw, but only in OT connected system boilers with direct HW. I rate the Tado highly, but I'm not an agent for them. Evohome has its fans, some of them are total devotees. It's a robust high end system, albeit a little dated. Personally, I think the TRVs are fussy looking. Horses for courses I suppose.
legend99 wrote: » .....P.S. I know you're supposed to leave a rad without TRV for safety if you're not sure re bypass etc. Shoukd that be a rad without a TRV in each zone so? I assume if ground floor zone turns on incorrectly and all rads have a TRV which is closed then having an open rad in the top floor zone won't help?
digiman wrote: » This seems like a pretty decent deal here from different amazon sites: Honeywell Home EVO Home Starter Kit with 2 x TRV Heads, White €229https://www.amazon.es/Honeywell-evohome-thr99-C3112-termostato-conectable-control/dp/B0758N89X1/ref=sr_1_16?__mk_es_ES=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&dchild=1&keywords=honeywell&qid=1606349264&sr=8-16 4 * Thermostats €179https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Honeywell-evohome-THR0924HRT-Radiator-Controller/dp/B00MPJQFNU/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=honeywell&qid=1606347735&sr=8-12 10 thermostats and the Display for €587 seems like a pretty decent deal. Am I missing anything here?
deezell wrote: » Nein, nein, 99, if all your rads have smart TRVs, then zones become redundant, so you just latch the zone valves open, as each rad (or slaved pair) is now a zone. A single open rad will provide the bypass for all zones, and a towel rail is ideal for this. I'll have a look back at the other stuff later and get back, time for a bit of science fiction..
legend99 wrote: » I feel a bit like Marty McFly here - he had a big problem thinking zone dimensionally too!
deezell wrote: » Speaking of Marty, this is hilarioushttps://youtu.be/zI4lFjWoFqc Andhttps://youtu.be/GIjDo-btyL0
legend99 wrote: » ....Come here so. If I had a full TRV set-up, then what happens to my thermostats etc? Like how would the TRVs turn on the heating? What do they talk to?! I should figure out the full optimal set-up now with the prices down!
deezell wrote: » You keep your stats as relays for rhe TRVs, they still turn the motorised valves and their boiler firing relay even if the plumbing part of the valve is latched open. Starting from scratch with a full TRV system, you would not need zone valves, (except the HW one), and a single stat would suffice, wired directly to the boiler to fire it. This stat could be the temperature sensor also for a TRV or multiple TRVs, such as an open plan area with two or three rads, or as the sensor for a rad in a compromised location, near an open door or window. I have three rads in a large T shaped hall and corridor, my main stat is located away from the front door around the hall corner in one corridor. If I went full TRV, I'd slave the three rad TRVs to it, which is what currently happens for the most part, as the air is well circulated in this area so no local hot spots. I'm quite content with single general zone, and a TRV to give the kitchen independent calling and closing off. TRV didn't work out in the main bedroom, too noisy for a certain light sleeper, it was sitting in the drawer after two nights. I could probably save a little if I capped off little used rooms with TRVs, but then they might become cold, damp and uninviting. The internal doors are always fully open anyway, so it's moot. Kitchen apart, the house is a big zone, and I kind of like it like that.
savemejebus wrote: » Drayton Wiser Price Drops again on amazon. I think that this is a great bargain https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B075GNJ7ZN (and easy enough to install that i could - with deezells advice - wire it up myself)
legend99 wrote: » Ok so I have the following. I have 3 CH zones, ground floor, first floor and second floor - and 1 HW zone (although because there was never an actual programmer, only a 'dumb' timing clock, the live feed from the clock to the hot press where the top floor valve and HW valve is located is a single feed... ....So there are 14 rads (5 on ground floor, 6 on first floor, 3 on second floor) I also have an unused extension kit. So what do you reckon my optimal set-up is?
deezell wrote: » He's just wired it as a fully pumped or S plan 2 zone system. He's probably unaware that your 2 zone system is a gravity system. He's wired CH to fire the boiler, (black wire to 3) and HW to drive the pump (grey wire to 6). You need to remove black from 3. and move the grey from 6 to 3, plus add a link from 3 to 4. Move brown from 5 to 6, and connect black to 5. This will fulfil the wiring on my diagram. I notice on the image that he has connnected a single wire to the 12v T1 connection. The T1 T2 connectors are there to supply 12v back up the old isolated wire pair to your original mechanical stat location in order to supply 12v to power the Nest without the need of the mains adaptor. I'm not sure why he has only connected one terminal, T1, and used the other wire to connect the earth terminal. If your Nest is installed at the old stat location without the mains adaptor it won't charge, and will run out of power. Unless the T2 terminal is internally grounded to earth, I don't see how it can power the stat on the wall, as the 12v is supplied from the T1 and T2.
deezell wrote: » Install the ext kit next to the top floor valves, connect the HW valve and top floor CH valve, assign the ext kit to the top floor stat. You now will have seperate control on the app for HW, and you can relocate the top floor stat wirelessly to a room that actually has a radiator, one of the beds most likely. If your rooms are difficult to heat, such as the freezing lounge, which I presume is slower to heat than other rooms in that zone, then you could add additional insulation to this room, internal insulated wall boards if possible. Check for air leaks, excessive air through the vent, windows which dont seal, an open unused chimney. Maybe the internal walls are already plasterboard on studs and are open at the edge inside the external wall vent, very common, allowing the inside of the boards to cool rapidly. They may not be sealed at the top either, venting heat to the first floor joists space. You might need a bigger convection radiator in this room, to make sure it gets its share of the heat, but anything you can do to prevent heat loss, check this out First.
baldshin wrote: » .... Looks like the old analogue wall dials are still somewhat in control on occasion. When I turned them down, the heat went off. They had been left in situ turned right up, supposedly then the Nest would have full control. Is there an easy way to decommission these so that only the Nest has control of the boiler?
legend99 wrote: » Given that I have/will have after next week, a TRV for each rad, does that mean something different in terms of set-up? In terms of the 'smartest' way to approach the smart set-up? Front room. It's a big room - probably well over 20 square meters. Does have open chimney and rad isn't huge alright. Just a single, not double, rad. Vent in window won't budge in terms of closing. But I always assume they had done something deliberately as there is a chimney and that is the only vent in the room so think the regs require a vent? All external walls have been pumped with beads - and the internal walls are already plasterboard with insulation on the back. I know this from trying to hang bloody curtain rails!
raytaxi wrote: » Deezell looking a bit of advice have a 3 zone ember, thinking of swapping to the drayton kit two zone plus hot water. How will I control hot water as ember has a thermostat on tank and hits temp turns off. How would it work with drayton will it just keep heating or off at boiler limit.
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