dingdong1234567 wrote: » So the hub controller has now been like this for 5 days. Switching the switched spur off beside it does not cut the power which leads me to believe it's not wired through the switch spur beside the unit. This is poor installation. The previous analogue clock was controlled by the switch spur...... As regards the actual hub controller, complete and utter scrap. It will be coming out asap, it has not been used 3 times and now the screen is purple and does not respond. Overall terrible installation and execution.
chuck eastwood wrote: » Have you powered down the unit to restart ? . As far as where it takes it's power from its pretty much irrelevant as long as the supply point is coming from a rated breaker.
dingdong1234567 wrote: » How can it powered down if it's not wired through the existing switched spur? If you mean cut the power by tripping the breaker to reset this thing then your mad in the head. Shouldn't have to do that in fairness. And I won't be doing it either.
chuck eastwood wrote: » Mad in the head, Don't be so dramatic. You do realize there is no difference to the unit as to how you disconnect and connect the power? . Would you rather look foolish when the installer comes out and restarts the unit only for it to work fine ?. Also as far as i am aware the is no regulation that stats a heating controller must have a switched spur feeding it. When people try to offer advice the advice given is often easier to follow than it is to sit in a cold house for days raging for no reason. If you can't spend 3 mins trying something simple to reset then unit then you are better off getting the installer back instead losing the head here.
dingdong1234567 wrote: » Calm down petal.
chuck eastwood wrote: » Your lack of understanding of basic electrics isn't countered by juvenile replies. Again, dramatics only work on the tinternet. It won't fix your cheap heating system
dingdong1234567 wrote: » I'll leave the juvenile comments to you. If you have nothing positive to add then you are best to say *uck all.
AndrewJRenko wrote: » We just had our first boiler service after having the Hub Controller for about a year. The engineer tells us that it is wired incorrectly. It should have a permanent live power output to the boiler, but it is switching the boiler completely off every time. The blue light on the boiler goes out, and the boiler pump doesn't have the chance to run for a few minutes to cool everything down. There are some signs of bumps on the heat exchanger, which he suspects is due to it not cooling down properly. Did anyone else have this problem?
deezell wrote: » Did hub controller install this? Time to get a solicitor. Their vague claims of savings and the other sh1te put forward here by converts will fall a long way short of cost of fixing the exchanger. Complete amateur installation. Its not just the pump that should post run, it's the blower on the burner. Only very old boilers our in sheds operated on a single SL connection.
AndrewJRenko wrote: » Yep, their own installation. What do you mean by 'single SL connection' please?
deezell wrote: » This is when the Switched Live (SL) mains voltage signal from the thermostat/timer is used not just to tell the boiler to fire, but to actually power the boiler from cold. Certain old boilers would be wired like this, no permanent live to the boiler to keep its controller in standby, just a single live cable, like turning a lamp on and off. Boilers benefit from having a permanent supply, so after the stat cuts out, the boiler can cut the flame, but keep the fan running to purge fumes, keep the pump running to cool the baffles and exchanger. Also, they run the fan and fire up the igniter briefly prior to opening the fuel valve. Modern condensor boilers have lots of electronics, they need power all the time. Older boilers, especially outdoor types, had burners that were just powered on and off.
fitzparker wrote: » Can someone help answer. The guy came to install this last week, he advised that this turns on both hot water and heating (we never use hot water) so my wife was hesitant and rushing out the door, so didn't go ahead with it. is this correct about hot water? does it make much of a difference in using up oil if both were on? on our current thermostat we can switch water/heating oil on separately.
deezell wrote: » I'm curious, you "never use hot water". Do you, like, take cold showers? Or do you heat the cylinder from an electric immersion element?
ted1 wrote: » We are similar. Use an electric shower. But our heating is just 1 zone so don’t want to heat the house in the summer to get hot water.
deezell wrote: » You've just downgraded to a single zone system from a 2 zone. Those guys have no shame. Hub controller is just a CH stat, and he would have wired it to heat the HW cylinder every time it came on to heat the CH, or somthing like that. Worse, if you just wanted to heat HW using oil boiler in the summer, you'd be heating the CH as well. I'm curious, you "never use hot water". Do you, like, take cold showers? Or do you heat the cylinder from an electric immersion element?
deezell wrote: » The installation of a 2 port zone valve for fully pumped systems or just using the stat relay to operate the pump on gravity HW systems is enough to ensure that you can heat the HW independently of CH in both cases, and vice versa with a 3 port valve, CH without HW. There's no huge cost penalty if your HW cylinder is heating while CH is on, unless your cylinder is uninsulated in a draughty press or the attic, but you don't want the rads on in the summer while heating a few gallons of HW. It would be money well spent on getting your system to have 2 zones, CH and HW, and then a smart stat on the CH part. For some cowboy to come along and downgrade a 2 zone system back to one because his dubious 'smart' stat is as smart as a light switch is just unacceptable. Tado, Nest, Hive, Drayton all can operate in two zone mode with their HW+CH relays. EPH ember is not 'smart', but it is internet capable and easily operates 2 or 3 zones.
ddub11 wrote: » Got hub installed yesterday and seemed to work fine. came home today and the control panel screen is Blank/Black.Its as if theres no power going into it (which there is)has anybody any idea whats wrong here?thanks.
deezell wrote: » Has your device a fully wired mains supply, live and neutral, as well as a SL wire to the boiler, or has it been wired with just the two wires from a previous old stat? Without a mains live and neutral wire, to keep its battery charged, this stat needs a live voltage on one terminal, and a reasonable load on the other, such as a boiler pump. When the relay is open, the stat can siphon power from the mains voltage difference across the terminals to trickle charge a battery. If your boiler is fired by closing a low voltage or volt free input, there may be low or insufficient voltage across the stat terminals when open, so the device battery will go flat. Check how many wires are connected inside. It might just be a dud also, most electronic devices, if they're going to fail, will do so early in their life.
ddub11 wrote: » Not sure why it went like that but everything works fine now,early days but it seems a handy device to have and easy to use.
