CramCycle wrote: » Have a Shimano 600 crankset on a friends bike but the BB is shot. I presume a regular square taper Shimano BB will do. I also presume it will be 68 x 113.
Type 17 wrote: » If the crankset works ok on the bike, and the shifting is good (other than issues because of the worn-out BB), then the same BB will be fine.
Type 17 wrote: » If it's an old-style cup-and-cone one, then migrating to a cheaper cassette one is better (unless it's a super-original collector's bike). Once the measurements are the same, it will work fine, and will be more durable, but will weigh a few grams more.
8valve wrote: » Pared down wine corks for the l'eroica vibe.:
JMcL wrote: » But that leads onto further decisions: Cork oneupmanship - do I get a pair of Tignanello corks and make sure the name is visible or will a pair from Rotgut Creek do fine ? Stained side inside the bar or facing out?
Thargor wrote: » Asked in Mountain Biking but Ill ask here aswell: On mudguards of this type:https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pcs-Mountain-Bike-Mudguard-MTB-Front-Rear-Wings-Bicycle-Fenders-Mud-Guards-Set/293694185978?hash=item446189a1fa:g:z6YAAOSwfOlfOi~Y For the front ones, is friction all that holds it in place when you push the adapter piece in the middle up into the hole in the fork and tighten the hex nut to make it expand? Does that work or will it fall out the minute you go over some rough terrain? The instructions for these ones see to imply thats the case:https://www.amazon.co.uk/TAGVO-Mudguard-Parts-Universal-Mountain-Adjustable/dp/B08723BYDC/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3OVRD34RI4AN0&dchild=1&keywords=mud+guards+for+mountain+bike+set&qid=1601664238&sprefix=mud%2Caps%2C132&sr=8-5
Type 17 wrote: » The issue in the SRAM doc is to do with adjusting the B-angle, whereas your issue is to do with axle-spacing. Best chat to your LBS. Did the rear wheel come with the bike, or is it a replacement?
Flaccus wrote: » ...So a 10-33 cassette which bike was advertised with (but came with 10-28) would not make any difference?
Rezident wrote: » Finally found my new road bike - Giant Defy Advanced 3, ticks all my boxes, but it is tubeless. Now I have googled tubeless a bit but have not used it before. I have been cycling years but am poor at maintenance (I just drop it in to LBS) I don't even do my own punctures anymore (getting old and lazy and the Polish guy in the shop does a way better job than me anyway). Is tubeless that hard to get used to? What happens when you do, inevitably on Irish roads, get a flat, do you have to carry sealant around with you as well as a pump? Sounds great in theory but do you need much extra equipment etc.?
Type 17 wrote: » No, the SRAM doc is about the front of the derailleur (where the parallelogram body meets the swing-cage) touching the chainstay when the chain is on the 10 sprocket. Usually the B-angle (AKA chain-gap) is adjusted to suit when the chain is on the biggest sprocket, but when the biggest sprocket isn't that big, this may may mean that the derailleur touches the chainstay when the chain is on the smallest sprocket, so the doc is saying to use a compromise setting to keep the top jockey wheel as close as possible to the cassette, while not touching the chainstay when on the smallest sprocket. None of this has anything to do with your issue, which is not caused by the size of cassette fitted.
Rezident wrote: » OK that sounds good, thank you for that, but the official video makes it sound so complicated:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UCv4XMud9Ps Surely you don't need all that equipment, do you?
fret_wimp2 wrote: » Hi. I have a "squeak" in around the left side of the bottom bracket & would appreciate some expertise eliminating it. The squeak happens when im putting in a little more than idling effort, pressing down on the left crank, so its difficult to reproduce on the stand.What I have tried: Im 100% sure the noise is coming from down where the left crank joins the bike but based on various blogs & discussions ive checked and eliminated the following: - Saddle. - Saddle post & nut. - Lose chain rings. - Chain (it couldnt be more lubricated). - Pedal. - shoes. I took off the left crank and added some grease, which removed the squeak for a couple of spins but its back again. Before i take the crank off again and pack it with grease, id like to get some advice on what it could be. WRT the bike, its less than 6 months old, does not have huge mileage and is taken care of. Its a Cube Road Race with a Shimano 105 FC-R7000, 50x34T Appreciate any advice on what to check.
8valve wrote: » Grease the 'face' of the bottom bracket bearing where the crank makes contact with it? Remove the bottom bracket bearings, grease threads and refit/retorque? IMO, There is no such thing as too much grease...lash it on and remove any that squidges out once the bike has been in motion; any that remains will both lubricate and act as an effective water resistant seal.
fret_wimp2 wrote: » Thanks for the replies all! WRT "retorque", is it critical to have this near bang on? I dont have a large torque wrench, just one with an upper limit of 15Nm, so would have to guess. In this case, would it be better to just bring it to bike mechanic?
Type 17 wrote: » It is important to get the torque (fairly) right on a Shimano Hollowtech II crankset or similar designs - the two 5mm Allen bolts should be 12-14Nm, and the important bit is that they're not too tight (thread damage), but also not too loose - if too loose, they will fall loose in riding, and the LH crank splines will skip and shear off, leading to a fall and the LH crank being ruined. It's also very important that the two bolts are torqued similarly tight, because if they're not, the looser bolt will fall fully loose and the remaining one's threads will then fail under heavy load, also leading to the shearing mentioned above. When tightening paired bolts like this (also seen on stems & some Giant seatpost clamps), note that tightening one bolt makes the other fall loose a bit, so you have to "walk them up" to the correct torque in a few steps (tighten one then the other x 3 or 4), until they are both the required torque.
Deano12345 wrote: » So I may be going down the dark path of having a Campag bike in the stable. Won an eBay auction for an almost old enough to be cool Willier Laverado Crono. Seems to be running 10 speed Campag. I know compatibility ain’t great between them and other brands. It’s a weird setup in that the “base” bar is just a set of bullhorns with the brifters on the end! If I wanted to convert it properly to TT bike spec, would any set of bar end levers, like the Dura Ace ones that pull the cable (not r2c) work? Google tells me it should! If it’s going to be a faff, I’ll just put drop bars on it and have a fast aero bike I guess!
