deezell wrote: » He's assuming the wifi controlled din rail contacor has rubbish contacts compared to a standard voltage controlled contacter. A few € extra buys the 50a version of this. Its purely a resistive load, so the arcing will be minimal. My only issue with din rail breakers and contactors in general is their cycle rating, are they made for multiple operations in a short time? I'd imagine 3 or 4 HW immersion calls during a day wouldn't tax it.
emaherx wrote: » The quality of these smart devices comming from China mostly, I'd also seriously question the claimed ratings on some of them. And experience, I've seen what the inside of many Schneider Electric contactors looks like and having looked inside the smart switches I can't see how they'd claim to be the same ratings. This is a fairly common story around the net.https://support.itead.cc/support/discussions/topics/11000012976 just looking at the size of the relays inside the smart switch, you'd barely fit the concats from a decent Schneider Electric inside one of those let alone the coil.
Brusna wrote: » That’s fair enough. I have this Schneider Electric contactor.https://www.se.com/ww/en/product/GC2520M5/tests-gc---modular-contactor---25-a---2-no---coil-220...240-v-ac/ Physically it’s the same size as the smart switch but I take your point re the quality of the products. I can’t find any detailed specifications for the smart switch which would put me off as well.
theintern wrote: » Random question as I can't seem to find anyone mentioning it. It seems Energia have a condition for their Netatmo offer that says; "If you move house you cannot move the Netatmo with you, you must leave it on the property as it forms part of the central heating system" Why is this? If it's 'mine' then shouldn't I be able to do with it as I please if I move? Has anyone moved and brought an Energia Netatmo with them?
Clareman wrote: » I think it's because Energia claim an energy grant for the installation of it off the government and that grant it tied to the house not the customer.
deezell wrote: » Spot on. It would be like trying to bring your house number with you, or in the past your phone number (before we had non geographic), or your toilet bowl. Actually, in Holland it was common to take the toilet bowls. Nonetheless, if your installation is a single WIRED Netatmo, you can replace it with a mechanical one and make off with it and the hub relay which is only used for internet connection when the stat is hardwired to the boiler. If the stat is wireless, its relay hub is wired to the boiler, so replacing it with a cheap wired stat is a bigger job. The issue of grant, ownership etc is another story, plus the stat will increase the energy rating given to the house on the compulsory survey required to sell. If you leave it you'll have to deregister the device(s) from your app to let the new owner use it.
championc wrote: » @Type 901 see post #1942https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=113756725&postcount=1942
Alkers wrote: » Does anyone have any experience of this stuff: https://www.bestheating.ie/milano-connect-wi-fi-gateway-hub-for-smart-radiator-thermostat-81993 We have a combi boiler and six rads with trvs that I want to be able to control (seperate to hall (where heating thermostat is) and bathrooms). This is mainly as now that I'm working from home, I want to have the heating on in the office and not the rest of the house all day. To do this currently I'd have to turn off all the trvs each morning and turn them back in the evening. I'm not particularly interested in replacing our current thermostat which is a simple timer set to different temperatures for times of the day and meets our needs perfectly and I can't see much benefit in having the trvs being able to tell the boiler to fire up once we have the main thermostat setup correctly? I can't find any cheaper solution but still 50e for a hub and 180e for 6 trvs seems quite an expensive fix! Thoughts?
scamalert wrote: » no expert, but doubt its even possible some people have 2 zone heating, so in my limited understanding heating pipes would span say across ground foor and separate set over 1st floor allowing to have 2 separate zones controled by temps. dont imagine ones house would have separate pipes going into diff rads, so at best you could have one valve for ground floor but it would still heat entire floor not specific room, that is if theres 2 separate zones. could be wrong and someone might know better.
Alkers wrote: » Heating is all just one zone, which I'd be happy with if I can just turn on and off rads via app, timer etc. Currently I just do it manually, which is a pain.
Type 901 wrote: » Looking for some advice on a new house and first venture into heating automation. Current setup in the house (as far as I can make out still learning..) - ò Gas Boiler - Baxi 35/60 with Immermat mechanical pin timer in utility Imit manual thermostat in hall and landing 3 Danfoss motorised values and a HW tank thermostat plumped/wired in hot press/HW tank. Immersion for HW tank on regular on/off bath/sink switch. So looks like I have 3 zones already Downstairs zone covering 7 rads with manual TRVs Upstairs zone covering 6 rads with manual TRVs HW zone Also looking at upgrading current boiler to higher efficiency condensing unit and standards like opentherm might be aid to system. Have looked at Google Nests as a lot of other devices in the ecosystem but it looks like Evohome or Tado might be a better solution with the TRV integration. Anyone have view on system to go with? Also don't mind switching supplier if any discounts or benefits - carbon credits from Electric Ireland for example.
Debub wrote: » Hi - does anyone have recommendations for an electrician/plumber in the West Cork area to help me with smart home heating installation please? Having difficulty in getting a competent person thanks
deezell wrote: » I suggest you split the job, decide if you want plumbed zones, TRV valves fitted, etc, and talk to an 'ordinary' plumber about pipes, don't mention Smart stuff. Once you have a zoned system either by motorised zone valve or by TRV priced up, let him install that. You can lock open TRVs and zone valves into a single zone while waiting for your smart stat wire up, and you're ready for a sparks to wire in a smart zone controller, stats or relays, and if it's TRVs you went with you can pop smart ones on yourself. If you already have some zone valves, ordinary wall stat, a way to heat HW without the rads coming on, you might not need any plumbing at all, other than a few smart TRVs, and you may already have the correct radiator valves for these. Plumbers who fully understand the concept of smart heating are scarce, a pity as it's just the same control wiring from their point of view, the smart activity is virtual in software.
Debub wrote: » Hey deezell - actually I got all the details off you only some time ago (as attached). I need to get 2 motoroized valves installed (one new) for a 2+1 zone (2h + 1hw), want to go with the Drayton Wiser 3 zone. Then I need the stats.
maxamillius wrote: » I have basic heating setup, oil boiler, thermostat on wall, i turn CH on by flicking switch on boiler, CH pump is turned on/off using mechanical stat on wall. If i leave the stat down and the pump off, the water will eventually get warm using gravity. My question is, can i use the Drayton wiser system? At the moment I don’t have any TRVs installed but i am going to get a plumber to sort this next month. If Drayton wiser is a runner, would anyone have a wiring diagram for it? Cheers,
championc wrote: » One thing with going the Tado route is that you supply them with your boiler make and model, and they then tell you the connections to be made. So Tado very much promote DIY installations. Starter kits and quad packs of TRV's are always coming up on Amazon