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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

is there a simple list of chemicals which you should not get near disc brake pads? i.e. would even something like a detergent cause issues with contamination; i was wondering as i was cleaning the bike earlier if i can be overcautious in cleaning the bike near the brakes.

any tips on looking after a steel frame? my latest purchase has mountings for racks and also a couple of unthreaded holes - should i tape those up to keep water out, or leave them uncovered to let the water out should it get in?

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Tony04

Not a stupid question

I'd imagine it might be possible as clutches arent complex just tension dampers on the pivot. Youd have to google to see I'd it's done before, could become very complex with small parts getting to right tension do not ruin shifting. Are you an engineer?

Shimano dont make 9 speed clutched derailleurs but microshift advent would work.

In my experience from upgrading an awful 3 x 8 atlus/tourney mtb drivetrain to 1 x 10 a narrow wide ring makes more difference than a clutch so much so I often forget to turn the clutch back on after taking wheel out.

8valve

ED E wrote: »

Hmm, not quite what I was looking for.

What I want to do is a bit unorthodox. Alfine/Nexus hub + drops w/ hyd. The Versa VRS8 is close but no hydraulic and looks to be a bit crap and impossible to find to boot. Theres Retroshift/Gevenalle too.

If its going to cost as much as I save on B2W its probably not worth it. Part of me says get over yourself and accept flat bars but I really do prefer drops(riding on the hoods).

Stumbled upon this while googling:
https://www.wired.com/2012/03/shimano-alfine-di2/

Kinda cool, never gonna be in budget for a 365 commuter as a retrofit. But that means the ST-R785 exists. Interesting.

Would one of the range of JTEKs shiftmate thingyamebobs correct the different cable pulls between the Alfine hub and an 11 speed shifter?

Or even use an old 8spd shifter with a nexus 7 speed hub (cable pull on all shimano stuff is the same up to 8speed, with the exception of some generation Dura ace, iirc?)

I've used a JTEK to match up a mongrel mix of Campag Chorus & 105/Ultegra 10 speed stuff on my old Merckx steel bike and it works flawlessly. There's a whole range of JTEK Shiftmates for different combos.

You could then use the TRP HY/RD calipers with discs?

I'd love to build this kind of frankenbike combo on something steel with disc mounts.

cletus

Tony04 wrote: »

Not a stupid question

I'd imagine it might be possible as clutches arent complex just tension dampers on the pivot. Youd have to google to see I'd it's done before, could become very complex with small parts getting to right tension do not ruin shifting. Are you an engineer?

Shimano dont make 9 speed clutched derailleurs but microshift advent would work.

In my experience from upgrading an awful 3 x 8 atlus/tourney mtb drivetrain to 1 x 10 a narrow wide ring makes more difference than a clutch so much so I often forget to turn the clutch back on after taking wheel out.

Thanks for the reply. I was thinking of a bolt on piece, something similar to the chain tensioner you can get for fixie conversions.

I'm not an engineer, but a PE and English teacher

Tony04

Physically educate the chain to stop slapping!

But seriously first thing I'd do if you haven't already is fashion a chainstay protector on the bike, an old tube protects your paintwork and acts as a good damper.

Your options to eradicate chain slap

1: stay 9 speed use microshift advent

2: go 1x with a narrow wide ring

3: 10 speed derailleur 9 speed shifter with same shift ratios use limit screw

4 change groupset

5: look on the internet to see if anyone has tinkered a 9 speed clutch derailleur, I know your a good tinkerer so I cant see if someone has done it why you cant

That's all I can think of.
Your suggestion of a chain tensioner" I dont think there could be such a thing on a non single speed transmission as that's the job of the jockey wheels already a clutch dampens lateral movement in the chain tensioner basically.

rayman1

I need to reinstall the expander plug in my Giant Defy OD2 carbon steerer tube. It came apart when the expander plug bolt came out when I was taking out the top cap bolt.
Any advice on reinstalling it. Should I use locktite and more importantly what torque should I use? Thanks.

07Lapierre

rayman1 wrote: »

I need to reinstall the expander plug in my Giant Defy OD2 carbon steerer tube. It came apart when the expander plug bolt came out when I was taking out the top cap bolt.
Any advice on reinstalling it. Should I use locktite and more importantly what torque should I use? Thanks.

I don't use a torque spanner. The purpose of the expander plug is to put tension on the headset bearings. With the Stem bolts loose, tighten the expander bolt by hand until the bars turn freely but without any "Rocking" motion. Then tighten the Stem bolts (again i tighten these by hand). Stem bolts should be tight, but not too tight.

rayman1

07Lapierre wrote: »

I don't use a torque spanner. The purpose of the expander plug is to put tension on the headset bearings. With the Stem bolts loose, tighten the expander bolt by hand until the bars turn freely but without any "Rocking" motion. Then tighten the Stem bolts (again i tighten these by hand). Stem bolts should be tight, but not too tight.

Thanks Lapierre. I do as you say when tightening the headset bearings but that's not my issue. The expander plug has come apart, a top and bottom taper and the central expander. There is a large, long bolt that pulls them together and expands it to grip the inside of the carbon steerer tube. For obvious reasons I don't want to over expand it. I have seen a range of torques mentioned on line.
The top cap bolt that tightens the bearings screws into this large, long bolt.

CramCycle

Tony04 wrote: »

That's all I can think of.
Your suggestion of a chain tensioner" I dont think there could be such a thing on a non single speed transmission as that's the job of the jockey wheels already a clutch dampens lateral movement in the chain tensioner basically.

Would shortening the chain do it, I realise you'll be stretching the derailleur a bit more but if its shortened a bit it should help reduce chain slap.

07Lapierre

rayman1 wrote: »

Thanks Lapierre. I do as you say when tightening the headset bearings but that's not my issue. The expander plug has come apart, a top and bottom taper and the central expander. There is a large, long bolt that pulls them together and expands it to grip the inside of the carbon steerer tube. For obvious reasons I don't want to over expand it. I have seen a range of torques mentioned on line.
The top cap bolt that tightens the bearings screws into this large, long bolt.

Ah OK. TBH when it comes to carbon, i don't like using torque spanners. I prefer to tighten things by hand. I only use a torque spanner when fitting a set of vector pedals. irrational i know, but i don't trust torque settings.

tomasrojo

CramCycle wrote: »

Would shortening the chain do it, I realise you'll be stretching the derailleur a bit more but if its shortened a bit it should help reduce chain slap.

I did this on my tourer. It did get rid of chain slap, but now if I cross-chain the chain jams. If you can be in the big chain ring and remember not to gear all the way down at the rear, it's fine.

I do know it's generally regarded as a bad practice, but I do it by accident sometimes. It's a triple though. Might not happen in a double?

CormacH94

What is the story with -17 degree stems being so expensive? Any I've seen are about 90 quid? Is this something to do with them having to be more stiff due to the angle?

Got my hopes up when I seen Ritchey had one for under 30 - but it's for 1 1/4 steerer...

magicbastarder

maybe just they're such a low volume item it adds to the price?

CormacH94

magicbastarder wrote: »

maybe just they're such a low volume item it adds to the price?

True

If I have a head tube angle of 72/73 will a -17/73 degree stem mean a flat horizontal stem/bar set-up or would -10 do the job?

Used the bike stem calculator website but not too sure still

ironictoaster

New sorry new cyclist here. Not bike maintenance per se but I didn't see the point opening a new thread.

Just wondering if anyone recommend a rain jacket that I could stuff in my Jersey pocket?

CramCycle

CormacH94 wrote: »

True

If I have a head tube angle of 72/73 will a -17/73 degree stem mean a flat horizontal stem/bar set-up or would -10 do the job?

Used the bike stem calculator website but not too sure still

-17 would leave it flat but depending on your stem length and where you want the bars, you could achieve it in other ways. What length of a stem were you planning with the -17 and do you have any room to move its position up or down by moving spacers?

crosstownk

ironictoaster wrote: »

New sorry new cyclist here. Not bike maintenance per se but I didn't see the point opening a new thread.

Just wondering if anyone recommend a rain jacket that I could stuff in my Jersey pocket?

I use an Altura Pocket Rocket. It packs small and tidy and fits nicely in my jersey pocket. The zip is dodgy and has been since I bought it four years ago but I can live with it.

It’s great at keeping me dry from the rain and perfect for showery weather or an hour or two of persistent rain.

grogi

Please folks, help me out here... I am running out of ideas...

There is a very unpleasant squick from the bike when pushing hard on the pedals... Does not matter if I sit on the saddle or stand, so that is not from the saddle I guess.

What I did so far:

replaced the BB, with generously greasing the threads
greased the seat tube
greased all the spokes where they touch each other
greased the frame where it touches the axle
checked front derailleur - all seems ok, no chain rub

dahat

I had a creak that eventually reveled itself as the small piece of rubber on Look cleats rubbing off Keo Max pedals. I changed to non grip cleats and squeak gone.

grogi

Weepsie wrote: »

Pushing hard on the pedals, but you havn't mentioned anything about doing anything to the pedals? My shoes sometimes rub off the cranks and give an annoying squeek.

Cleats too somehow gave an annoying squak at one point.

dahat wrote: »

I had a creak that eventually reveled itself as the small piece of rubber on Look cleats rubbing off Keo Max pedals. I changed to non grip cleats and squeak gone.

Thanks, that's really worth checking out.

I don't use cycling shoes, have an old fashioned bear-claws pedals with that are super wide, but will definately pay attention next time.

magicbastarder

grogi wrote: »

[*]greased all the spokes where they touch each other

it doesn't usually result in a squeak, but you could also try greasing the spoke nipples where they contact the rim.

loyatemu

have you checked the cranks and pedals themselves, grease the threads then tighten well...

brownian

grogi wrote: »

Please folks, help me out here... I am running out of ideas...

There is a very unpleasant squick from the bike when pushing hard on the pedals... Does not matter if I sit on the saddle or stand, so that is not from the saddle I guess.

What I did so far:
replaced the BB, with generously greasing the threads

greased the seat tube

greased all the spokes where they touch each other

greased the frame where it touches the axle

checked front derailleur - all seems ok, no chain rub

Check the stem bolts and headset. Hard pushing also means more pressure at the front end.

magicbastarder

best to just hose the bike down in WD40 to be sure.

(note - i sprayed some light oil onto my cleats last week cos one was squeaking as i pedalled. within 1km of heading out, i fluffed a clip in, and my foot slipped off the pedal and i mashed my shin into the pedal)

8valve

I have nothing to add to the squeak debate, except to say that they can be the bane of any mechanic's life!

Nowadays, when cycling, if I hear a creak, I ask myself ''Is that me, or the bike?'' :-)

Type 17

8valve wrote: »

I have nothing to add to the squeak debate, except to say that they can be the bane of any mechanic's life!

True, my most unusual squeak found was <similar symptoms to the poster above>, and turned out to be a slightly too-loose bottle-cage bolt :eek:

Other items that might be the source include:

slightly too loose skewer on either wheel hub
dampness under stem (touching fork or bars)
seatpost head - saddle fastening
Trek ISOspeed (or other similar frame quasi-suspension design)
pedal spindle slightly too loose in crank arm

Also note that standing up and cranking hard doesn't eliminate the saddle from the potential creak-list - the frame still flexes around the seat-post when you're cranking hard, even though you aren't sitting on it.

dahat

Iv'e a 2016 TCR advanced 1 that i'm told won't fit 28mm tyres but after some peering through various facebook groups it seems that if i change the calipers from 6800 to r800 the 28mm will fit.

Has anyone else tried the same before i try chase down reasonably priced parts?

gaffmaster

dahat wrote: »

Iv'e a 2016 TCR advanced 1 that i'm told won't fit 28mm tyres but after some peering through various facebook groups it seems that if i change the calipers from 6800 to r800 the 28mm will fit.

Has anyone else tried the same before i try chase down reasonably priced parts?

You could buy or borrow one 28c tyre and check if it fits your current setup before making costly upgrades. I've managed to squeeze a 28c into Ultegra 6700 brake caliper before. The overall inflation size depends on the wheel's rim width and the tyre in question.

grogi

Big thanks to everyone that replied with ideas...

True, my most unusual squeak found was <similar symptoms to the poster above>, and turned out to be a slightly too-loose bottle-cage bolt :eek:
Other items that might be the source include:

slightly too loose skewer on either wheel hub

Through axles, tighten properly...

dampness under stem (touching fork or bars)

Can you elaborate on that? I don't understand what you mean by that...

seatpost head - saddle fastening

Played with that, lubed here as well. I'll take the seat post completely off the bike.

Trek ISOspeed (or other similar frame quasi-suspension design

Nothing of such in my frame.

pedal spindle slightly too loose in crank arm

That is the most probable curprit to be fair...

Also note that standing up and cranking hard doesn't eliminate the saddle from the potential creak-list - the frame still flexes around the seat-post when you're cranking hard, even though you aren't sitting on it.

I realize that - hense I lubed the whole seat post. I might actually completely take it off to rule that out.

cletus

I don't know that this question is stupid, and it's only vaguely related to bike maintenance, but it doesn't deserve it's own thread.

I have a number of sets of tools, mostly for different applications, and the tool set I have for working on bikes is basically thrown into an old plastic tool box. It has no divisions, holders etc, so it's just a jumble.

I'd like one of those aluminium briefcase style boxes with a nice tool pallette, but any I've seen are quite expensive, or they come with a full range of tools, which I don't need. The Park Tools one is great looking, but couldn't justify the expense.

Anyone got a suggestion, or perhaps a recommendation based on something they have? Doesn't have to be cycle branded etc

[Deleted User]

I was looking at just that kind of thing on screw fix a while back they have a set of 2 alu briefcase style ones for around €35. If I recall the reason I didn't buy them at the time was there was no picture or description of what the inside was like.

I was thinking I could just get some foam cut to size and then cut spaces in that to hold the tools nicely. Knowing my knife skills I'd probably lose a hand in the effort

https://www.screwfix.ie/p/aluminium-case-set-2-pcs/8894p