nav[aria-label="Primary Navigation"] { padding: 0; & ul { list-style: none; width: 100%; display: flex; flex-direction: row; justify-content: start; align-items: start; gap: 30px; padding: 0; & li { margin: 0; } & ul li { list-style: none; } } }

Child Item

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

is there a simple list of chemicals which you should not get near disc brake pads? i.e. would even something like a detergent cause issues with contamination; i was wondering as i was cleaning the bike earlier if i can be overcautious in cleaning the bike near the brakes.

any tips on looking after a steel frame? my latest purchase has mountings for racks and also a couple of unthreaded holes - should i tape those up to keep water out, or leave them uncovered to let the water out should it get in?

Find more posts tagged with

Quick Links

Comments

CormacH94

magicbastarder wrote: »

maybe just they're such a low volume item it adds to the price?

True

If I have a head tube angle of 72/73 will a -17/73 degree stem mean a flat horizontal stem/bar set-up or would -10 do the job?

Used the bike stem calculator website but not too sure still

magicbastarder

maybe just they're such a low volume item it adds to the price?

CormacH94

What is the story with -17 degree stems being so expensive? Any I've seen are about 90 quid? Is this something to do with them having to be more stiff due to the angle?

Got my hopes up when I seen Ritchey had one for under 30 - but it's for 1 1/4 steerer...

tomasrojo

CramCycle wrote: »

Would shortening the chain do it, I realise you'll be stretching the derailleur a bit more but if its shortened a bit it should help reduce chain slap.

I did this on my tourer. It did get rid of chain slap, but now if I cross-chain the chain jams. If you can be in the big chain ring and remember not to gear all the way down at the rear, it's fine.

I do know it's generally regarded as a bad practice, but I do it by accident sometimes. It's a triple though. Might not happen in a double?

07Lapierre

rayman1 wrote: »

Thanks Lapierre. I do as you say when tightening the headset bearings but that's not my issue. The expander plug has come apart, a top and bottom taper and the central expander. There is a large, long bolt that pulls them together and expands it to grip the inside of the carbon steerer tube. For obvious reasons I don't want to over expand it. I have seen a range of torques mentioned on line.
The top cap bolt that tightens the bearings screws into this large, long bolt.

Ah OK. TBH when it comes to carbon, i don't like using torque spanners. I prefer to tighten things by hand. I only use a torque spanner when fitting a set of vector pedals. irrational i know, but i don't trust torque settings.

CramCycle

Tony04 wrote: »

That's all I can think of.
Your suggestion of a chain tensioner" I dont think there could be such a thing on a non single speed transmission as that's the job of the jockey wheels already a clutch dampens lateral movement in the chain tensioner basically.

Would shortening the chain do it, I realise you'll be stretching the derailleur a bit more but if its shortened a bit it should help reduce chain slap.

rayman1

07Lapierre wrote: »

I don't use a torque spanner. The purpose of the expander plug is to put tension on the headset bearings. With the Stem bolts loose, tighten the expander bolt by hand until the bars turn freely but without any "Rocking" motion. Then tighten the Stem bolts (again i tighten these by hand). Stem bolts should be tight, but not too tight.

Thanks Lapierre. I do as you say when tightening the headset bearings but that's not my issue. The expander plug has come apart, a top and bottom taper and the central expander. There is a large, long bolt that pulls them together and expands it to grip the inside of the carbon steerer tube. For obvious reasons I don't want to over expand it. I have seen a range of torques mentioned on line.
The top cap bolt that tightens the bearings screws into this large, long bolt.

07Lapierre

rayman1 wrote: »

I need to reinstall the expander plug in my Giant Defy OD2 carbon steerer tube. It came apart when the expander plug bolt came out when I was taking out the top cap bolt.
Any advice on reinstalling it. Should I use locktite and more importantly what torque should I use? Thanks.

I don't use a torque spanner. The purpose of the expander plug is to put tension on the headset bearings. With the Stem bolts loose, tighten the expander bolt by hand until the bars turn freely but without any "Rocking" motion. Then tighten the Stem bolts (again i tighten these by hand). Stem bolts should be tight, but not too tight.

rayman1

I need to reinstall the expander plug in my Giant Defy OD2 carbon steerer tube. It came apart when the expander plug bolt came out when I was taking out the top cap bolt.
Any advice on reinstalling it. Should I use locktite and more importantly what torque should I use? Thanks.

Tony04

Physically educate the chain to stop slapping!

But seriously first thing I'd do if you haven't already is fashion a chainstay protector on the bike, an old tube protects your paintwork and acts as a good damper.

Your options to eradicate chain slap

1: stay 9 speed use microshift advent

2: go 1x with a narrow wide ring

3: 10 speed derailleur 9 speed shifter with same shift ratios use limit screw

4 change groupset

5: look on the internet to see if anyone has tinkered a 9 speed clutch derailleur, I know your a good tinkerer so I cant see if someone has done it why you cant

That's all I can think of.
Your suggestion of a chain tensioner" I dont think there could be such a thing on a non single speed transmission as that's the job of the jockey wheels already a clutch dampens lateral movement in the chain tensioner basically.

cletus

Tony04 wrote: »

Not a stupid question

I'd imagine it might be possible as clutches arent complex just tension dampers on the pivot. Youd have to google to see I'd it's done before, could become very complex with small parts getting to right tension do not ruin shifting. Are you an engineer?

Shimano dont make 9 speed clutched derailleurs but microshift advent would work.

In my experience from upgrading an awful 3 x 8 atlus/tourney mtb drivetrain to 1 x 10 a narrow wide ring makes more difference than a clutch so much so I often forget to turn the clutch back on after taking wheel out.

Thanks for the reply. I was thinking of a bolt on piece, something similar to the chain tensioner you can get for fixie conversions.

I'm not an engineer, but a PE and English teacher

8valve

ED E wrote: »

Hmm, not quite what I was looking for.

What I want to do is a bit unorthodox. Alfine/Nexus hub + drops w/ hyd. The Versa VRS8 is close but no hydraulic and looks to be a bit crap and impossible to find to boot. Theres Retroshift/Gevenalle too.

If its going to cost as much as I save on B2W its probably not worth it. Part of me says get over yourself and accept flat bars but I really do prefer drops(riding on the hoods).

Stumbled upon this while googling:
https://www.wired.com/2012/03/shimano-alfine-di2/

Kinda cool, never gonna be in budget for a 365 commuter as a retrofit. But that means the ST-R785 exists. Interesting.

Would one of the range of JTEKs shiftmate thingyamebobs correct the different cable pulls between the Alfine hub and an 11 speed shifter?

Or even use an old 8spd shifter with a nexus 7 speed hub (cable pull on all shimano stuff is the same up to 8speed, with the exception of some generation Dura ace, iirc?)

I've used a JTEK to match up a mongrel mix of Campag Chorus & 105/Ultegra 10 speed stuff on my old Merckx steel bike and it works flawlessly. There's a whole range of JTEK Shiftmates for different combos.

You could then use the TRP HY/RD calipers with discs?

I'd love to build this kind of frankenbike combo on something steel with disc mounts.

Tony04

Not a stupid question

I'd imagine it might be possible as clutches arent complex just tension dampers on the pivot. Youd have to google to see I'd it's done before, could become very complex with small parts getting to right tension do not ruin shifting. Are you an engineer?

Shimano dont make 9 speed clutched derailleurs but microshift advent would work.

In my experience from upgrading an awful 3 x 8 atlus/tourney mtb drivetrain to 1 x 10 a narrow wide ring makes more difference than a clutch so much so I often forget to turn the clutch back on after taking wheel out.

cletus

It's a while since I asked a stupid question, and I don't want to fall behind, so here it goes

I have Shimano Sora 9 speed cassette and rear derailleur on my gravel bike. I do get some chain slap.

Is there any way to retrofit a clutch mechanism, or is it just replace the derailleur, and if so can you even get 9 speed clutched rear deraillers

ED E

grogi wrote: »

Idea is fantastic, but are there Alfine brifters? I think the hub uses different indexing than standard derailleur...

Yeah, thats kinda why Im asking. There are 11spd Alfines but not sure if the total travel matches at all with regular 11spd setups. Same for the 8s.

grogi

ED E wrote: »

What I want to do is a bit unorthodox. Alfine/Nexus hub + drops w/ hyd.

Idea is fantastic, but are there Alfine brifters? I think the hub uses different indexing than standard derailleur...

ED E

8valve wrote: »

Not that I'm aware of....although I have heard talk of a tektro hydraulic caliper that is cable actuated from a traditional cable-brake shifter?

Deano12345 wrote: »

TRP also have the HY/RD system as well!

Hmm, not quite what I was looking for.

Deleted User wrote: »

Shimano only made hydraulic available for Tiagra last year and I don't think i've seen it on any bike with a full Tiagra groupset yet even 2021 models.

Most I've seen have the Tektro or TRP system or for a 150 to 200 more a 105 groupset??? Pricing must be an issue there?

Manufactures clearly not keen to push Tiagra Hydraulic.

JMcL wrote: »

Yep, works well. Have it on the Croix de Fer and beyond changing pads, never had to do anything with it in nearly 4 years. Can't see any reason why it wouldn't work on an 8 speed shifter. I believe it needs compressionless outers though, but again that shouldn't be a blocker

What I want to do is a bit unorthodox. Alfine/Nexus hub + drops w/ hyd. The Versa VRS8 is close but no hydraulic and looks to be a bit crap and impossible to find to boot. Theres Retroshift/Gevenalle too.

If its going to cost as much as I save on B2W its probably not worth it. Part of me says get over yourself and accept flat bars but I really do prefer drops(riding on the hoods).

Stumbled upon this while googling:
https://www.wired.com/2012/03/shimano-alfine-di2/

Kinda cool, never gonna be in budget for a 365 commuter as a retrofit. But that means the ST-R785 exists. Interesting.

JMcL

8valve wrote: »

Thats the one! TRP, not Tektro, as I posted! Getting good reviews from the cycling press too.

Yep, works well. Have it on the Croix de Fer and beyond changing pads, never had to do anything with it in nearly 4 years. Can't see any reason why it wouldn't work on an 8 speed shifter. I believe it needs compressionless outers though, but again that shouldn't be a blocker

Zen0

Speed wobble. Only happened to me once, years ago on an old steel framed bike. Absolutely terrifying. I have seen the recommendation that you press your leg into the top tube to suppress the vibration. Pressing your tights against the top tube might work also, but only if you’re wearing them. Or in your case just sit back on the saddle.

a148pro

8valve wrote: »

Just a speed wobble?

Does it happen when seated?

Doesn't happen seated, must be a normal thing so I was just worried it was indicative of some other problem

8valve

Deano12345 wrote: »

TRP also have the HY/RD system as well!

Thats the one! TRP, not Tektro, as I posted! Getting good reviews from the cycling press too.

grogi

a148pro wrote: »

What does it mean if you stand on the pedals on a descent and the bike starts to wobble, almost rhythmically? As in its wobbling itself. Wheels not trued?

Nothing wrong. Each bike has its own resonance frequency. Use your tights to dampen the wobbling and try moving forward in the saddle.

[Deleted User]

Shimano only made hydraulic available for Tiagra last year and I don't think i've seen it on any bike with a full Tiagra groupset yet even 2021 models.

Most I've seen have the Tektro or TRP system or for a 150 to 200 more a 105 groupset??? Pricing must be an issue there?

Manufactures clearly not keen to push Tiagra Hydraulic.

Deano12345

8valve wrote: »

Not that I'm aware of....although I have heard talk of a tektro hydraulic caliper that is cable actuated from a traditional cable-brake shifter?

TRP also have the HY/RD system as well!

magicbastarder

how fast was the wobble?
here's one example of speed wobble (starts 25-30s in)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T7kd3n9ydIM

8valve

a148pro wrote: »

What does it mean if you stand on the pedals on a descent and the bike starts to wobble, almost rhythmically? As in its wobbling itself. Wheels not trued?

Just a speed wobble?

Does it happen when seated?

a148pro

What does it mean if you stand on the pedals on a descent and the bike starts to wobble, almost rhythmically? As in its wobbling itself. Wheels not trued?

8valve

ED E wrote: »

Does it exist:

8 speed drop shifter with hydraulic braking?

Not that I'm aware of....although I have heard talk of a tektro hydraulic caliper that is cable actuated from a traditional cable-brake shifter?

ED E

Does it exist:

8 speed drop shifter with hydraulic braking?

Bill74

I've had a rear hub flange failure on a 7 yr old set of Zipp 303's. Is there any point getting new hub put on? Any recommendations for a wheel builder near Carlow. Or Dublin if I have to.