t8010789 wrote: » I own a 1950s semi d in Dublin with an old open fireplace in the front room. The chimney breast is in the centre of the wall with alcoves either side. I would like to put in an inset wood burning stove to be flush with the front of the chimney breast with an external air supply. The chimney may have to be relined. Do you think it would be possible/advisable to core drill a 4 inch hole from outside into one side of the alcove and then drill through one side of the chimney breast? The opening of the existing fireplace is quite small, could I make this slightly bigger to accept an inset? I have attached a plan of where the external air feed would need to run. Any advice would be much appreciated and a stove that could work in this situation. TIA
Naos wrote: » What is the general consensus around Flexi flu requirements? Had two guys out for prices, one didn't really look at the chimney and just recommended getting a flexi flue. The other guy had a quick look and said he does not believe it's required but would know more when working on it. Also - AGR stove vs Henley? Roughly double the price for similar stove but if it's better quality...
CaptainCoPilot wrote: » How old is the house? You can test the chimney to determine if it is leaking anywhere. TBH, if it was me and there was any doubt id just go ahead and use a flexi flue.
Bass Reeves wrote: » Most stove supplies as opposed to installers recommend using 4-5'' flue as opposed to existing 9"flue. There reasoning is that it makes the stove more efficient especially in the early part of the fire/heating cycle. They say that because the flue is smaller it throws more heat back into a room
upupup wrote: » You may have a problem with draught and creosote in a stove without a liner. You wont have these problems with a liner. some people have no issues with no liner. it depends on what you are burning.burning wood increases the risk of creosote in a flue without the liner.
Naos wrote: » Good to know, thank you. Yes, we'll want to burn wood as well as smokeless coal etc. Right, all signs point towards just paying for the flue now to avoid any issues down the line.
Wearb wrote: » One of the problems with downsizing a flue (smaller than stove outlet) is that you are derating the stove. I.e. a stove rated at say 20kw with a 6" flue, will not successfuly produce 20kw with a 5" flue.
Dempo1 wrote: » I'm thinking of installing a stove with boiler into a restored cottage. Foolishly I have stand alone stove and whilst it's great, I don't get the benifit of hot water. My questions are as follows A. I want to retain my oil central heating (I've an internal boiler, can the new stove be hooked up to existing plumbing whilst retaining oil system as back up. B. I believe I need a new emersion tank, if so, will this be compatible with oil system. C. The big one. My cottage has a large central chimney, at least 2 feet in diameter, all I use it for is the flue for the oil boiler, the stove will obviously need its own flue, can I run a second flue alongside the oil burner flue. I know there's ample space, I'm just concerned about the safety aspect of this approach. As it happens the internal boiler and all pipe work are in a central part of the cottage so positioning the new stove here and using the chimney would I believe reduce costs and make life easier for plumber. Thanks in advance of any advice
upupup wrote: » A. Yes you can hook the stove into the oil system. B.I think you need a dual coil cylinder,one coil will be gravity fed from the stove and the second will be fed from the oil boiler.It needs to be vented for safety reasons. C.I don't see any problem with putting in a second flue in the chimney just keep them apart in case of any unforeseen issue
Dempo1 wrote: » Thanks for that advice and response, appreciated, just a final quest re vent for new cylinder, I hadn't realised that. Again the current cylinder is the same general area, the entire current system almost like an island. I'm guessing just general vent will do, I won't need extraction fan etc?
upupup wrote: » There are different places and methods to put in the hot water safety vent for the stove.The reason is if you have a roaring fire going in the stove and you have a powercut.Then you have no pump to pump the water to the rads so all the heat goes to the cylinder which overheats and the hot water boils and escapes through the safety pipe/vent to the attic water tank. If you don't have this in place,the stove will over heat and blow the pipes off, if you are lucky,if you are unlucky it becomes a bomb! Get a plumber with experience in dual systems
choicer wrote: » In our current house, there is a stove in the sitting room installed in the old fireplace. We live in a fairly open country area and when there is any wind you can hear the wind - and feel it - in the stove. Is that normal? Another question I have is that the flue was just stuck up the chimney and I think there is some draught coming in. Can you seal the old chimney area around the stove flue? On really windy days, with all windows closed, the sitting room doors rattle so clearly draughts getting in somewhere. Any guidance most welcome.
Dempo1 wrote: » Sounds like you might need a revolving or statiobary chimney cowl. These fit on the top of your chimney flue assuming you have room for one.they help minimise draught. I'm told revolving ones can possibly increase fuel consumption however as they draw air up in windy conditions. Basically you need something to minimise draught in your flue. Just as an aside, you may need to insure your using your stove to it's full potential, they require some ventilation to insure fuel is reaching a good temperature, I made the mistake in keeping vent closed as much as possible, meaning fuel not reaching full heat and making smoking of room more likely, and finally insure fuel dry, especially turf if you use it.
rpmcs wrote: » Not to sound like a drama queen, but to offer some one advice of a cowl where op has said the flue possible may not be sealed properly into chimney! Seriously people, if the flue is not sealed properly, a cowl might , at best create more draught around the unsealed flue. In a windy area, you may here noise that is not actually coming down chimney/ up chimney, generally in an older buildings, you can have gaps in doors/vents etc which get air pushed into house and through stove up chimney, but if you are feeling draughts coming down chimney then questions needs to be asked. Do you have carbon monoxide alarm? Does the stove/ possible unsealed flue smoke at any stages during operation. What i would recommend is to possible get a installer to have a look or a good chimney sweep to visually assess with camera. A good chimney sweep should be able to tell you fairly quickly if some seals may need sealing. Its recommended that you get chimney sweep every year and inspected if in any doubt of condition. But in my opinion, i would be very reluctant to recommend just going of buying a cowl with out having more info or visual inspection.
positron wrote: » Hi, general query regarding stoves - what are the disadvantages of a gas stove? We are considering getting a gas stove to replace a 'decorative gas insert fire' type thing and vast majority of people seems to be getting wood/multifuel stoves. We don't have much land or free wood source, and the fireplace already has natural gas (mains). Am I missing any other compelling reasons to pick wood burning stove over gas?
Deco99 wrote: » Building a small extension and are putting a stove in the corner. The flu is going to go straight up and out a vaulted ceiling. Currently at roofing stage and want to know what preparation for stove carpenter should make to avoid ripping at tiles later. Have the lead flashing, 1000mm mi flue twin wall and a storm collar. Does he need to fix all or just the lead flashing for now, before stove fully installed?
Forge83 wrote: » Would you not ask the stove fitter to tell you how to prepare it? Your list of materials would lead me to believe you don’t have a clue what you are doing.
Deco99 wrote: » Not on here for definite answers, more when I'm talking to the experts I have a better understanding of my options. Have noticed you get all sorts of advice in a renovation. The more expensive option is always recommended as necessary and that's true in some cases but not all, so without a little research/preparation it's hard to come across as anything but clueless/easy mark. Now I have at least one clue on this subject. Thanks.
