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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

is there a simple list of chemicals which you should not get near disc brake pads? i.e. would even something like a detergent cause issues with contamination; i was wondering as i was cleaning the bike earlier if i can be overcautious in cleaning the bike near the brakes.

any tips on looking after a steel frame? my latest purchase has mountings for racks and also a couple of unthreaded holes - should i tape those up to keep water out, or leave them uncovered to let the water out should it get in?

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8valve

magicbastarder wrote: »

i've a pair of aksiums on a bike that's been out in all weathers and was my commuting bike; the spokes are showing it a little with a bit of rust appearing through the anodising. is it even worth trying to clean them/treat them?
it's not nearly enough to worry about the strength of the spokes themselves; and they're disc wheels, so not something where the decision is automatically made to replace them if the rims wear through.

They tend to get a bit of surface rust when they're used in all weathers.

If it's only cosmetic, you could give them a quick rub down with a red scotchpad and a blowover with an aerosol can of satin black automotive paint, to make them pretty again...masking the rims and discs/hubs could be a bit of a chore!

The main fault I'm seeing with modern Mavics over the last decade is that the hubs/bearings are genuinely great for longevity, but the rims wear/become concave from the brake pads and also, the nipples, without exception, are absolute barstewards for welding themselves onto the spokes...to the point that I would recommend twice a year that every Mavic wheel owner should soak their nipples with penetrating fluid (Oooooh Matron!) and give each nipple a quarter turn clockwise then back a quarter turn anticlockwise to prevent them seizing and maintain tension!

I'm still riding Mavic hubs (on original sealed bearings) from the 80s/90s on MA40/GP4/Open4 CD rims with no signs of wear on anything, bar rim anodising wear from brake pads.
In the case of Mavic, the old saying ''They don't make em like they used to'' certainly rings true...

swarlb

8valve wrote: »

They tend to get a bit of surface rust when they're used in all weathers.

If it's only cosmetic, you could give them a quick rub down with a red scotchpad and a blowover with an aerosol can of satin black automotive paint, to make them pretty again...masking the rims and discs/hubs could be a bit of a chore!

The main fault I'm seeing with modern Mavics over the last decade is that the hubs/bearings are genuinely great for longevity, but the rims wear/become concave from the brake pads and also, the nipples, without exception, are absolute barstewards for welding themselves onto the spokes...to the point that I would recommend twice a year that every Mavic wheel owner should soak their nipples with penetrating fluid (Oooooh Matron!) and give each nipple a quarter turn clockwise then back a quarter turn anticlockwise to prevent them seizing and maintain tension!

I'm still riding Mavic hubs (on original sealed bearings) from the 80s/90s on MA40/GP4/Open4 CD rims with no signs of wear on anything, bar rim anodising wear from brake pads.
In the case of Mavic, the old saying ''They don't make em like they used to'' certainly rings true...

I bought a used set of Mavic hubs and pedals from one of the Kas mechanics on the Nissan Classic (obviously) a long time ago. They still run as smoothly as they did when I first used them, and God knows how many miles had been on them at that stage.
There was a saying about Campagnolo derailleurs back in the 70's, that they 'shifted poorly' say when compared to Shimano or even Suntour of the day.
However... they would continue to shift poorly.... 'Forever'

JMcL

8valve wrote: »

The main fault I'm seeing with modern Mavics over the last decade is that the hubs/bearings are genuinely great for longevity, but the rims wear/become concave from the brake pads and also, the nipples, without exception, are absolute barstewards for welding themselves onto the spokes...

This. Just after having to ditch a rear Ksh1tium which had spokes continually twisting, working loose, and seized nipples so no amount of elbow grease wouldn't shift them. Even tried swearing at them. Didn't work.

Replaced them with 2nd hand Aksiums which might be a case of once bitten, but I only need them to see me through the rest of the year til BTW time comes round again

8valve

JMcL wrote: »

This. Just after having to ditch a rear Ksh1tium which had spokes continually twisting, working loose, and seized nipples so no amount of elbow grease wouldn't shift them. Even tried swearing at them. Didn't work.

Replaced them with 2nd hand Aksiums which might be a case of once bitten, but I only need them to see me through the rest of the year til BTW time comes round again

Don't forget to lube your nipples!:D

JMcL

8valve wrote: »

Don't forget to lube your nipples!:D

Twice a day to be on the safe side :-)

dave_o_brien

swarlb wrote: »

I bought a used set of Mavic hubs and pedals from one of the Kas mechanics on the Nissan Classic (obviously) a long time ago. They still run as smoothly as they did when I first used them, and God knows how many miles had been on them at that stage.
There was a saying about Campagnolo derailleurs back in the 70's, that they 'shifted poorly' say when compared to Shimano or even Suntour of the day.
However... they would continue to shift poorly.... 'Forever'

A bike mechanic I used to work with used to say that Shimano wore out, Campy wore in.

magicbastarder

i've heard that comment before a couple of times. it sounds neat, but i'd love to know what they mean by that. campagnolo reverses the direction of entropy?

dave_o_brien

magicbastarder wrote: »

i've heard that comment before a couple of times. it sounds neat, but i'd love to know what they mean by that. campagnolo reverses the direction of entropy?

Yeah, exactly.

I think the reputation was that well used campy felt better, crisper and more reliable than well used shimano. New, not much between them.

My experience is that either have really impressive durability for anything but the cheapest of groupsets.

Tony04

dave_o_brien wrote: »

A bike mechanic I used to work with used to say that Shimano wore out, Campy wore in.

What about Sram

? Campy and shimano are at another level.

The thing I love about shimano is how they make all their parts serviceable, apart from maybe the tourney group. Also shimano mtb stuff is rock solid.

Shame campagnolo has lost its market share over the years all the same

CormacH94

Following on from my headset question - how do I figure out what bearings I need for my bike? I know it's a 1 1/8th steerer - integrated I think? How do I go abouts finding replacement set of bearings? Can't find any spec on the brand website - Bike is a 2013 Lapierre Audacio 400 for reference

cletus

CormacH94 wrote: »

Following on from my headset question - how do I figure out what bearings I need for my bike? I know it's a 1 1/8th steerer - integrated I think? How do I go abouts finding replacement set of bearings? Can't find any spec on the brand website - Bike is a 2013 Lapierre Audacio 400 for reference

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/headset-standards#:~:text=Steering%20columns%20may%20be%20either,a%2045-degree%20bearing%20seat.

Some info here on the various headset standards and bearing nominal sizes

crosstownk

CormacH94 wrote: »

Following on from my headset question - how do I figure out what bearings I need for my bike? I know it's a 1 1/8th steerer - integrated I think? How do I go abouts finding replacement set of bearings? Can't find any spec on the brand website - Bike is a 2013 Lapierre Audacio 400 for reference

You could remove the bearing and see if the dimensions are cold stamped on the casing. That's how I found the size of the headset on my Giant (VP bearing). I haven't needed to do the same with my Lapierre so I'd be interested to see what you find.

CormacH94

crosstownk wrote: »

You could remove the bearing and see if the dimensions are cold stamped on the casing. That's how I found the size of the headset on my Giant (VP bearing). I haven't needed to do the same with my Lapierre so I'd be interested to see what you find.

Thanks for the link Cletus!

Never even thought of checking the actual bearings haha

Bill74

I've had a rear hub flange failure on a 7 yr old set of Zipp 303's. Is there any point getting new hub put on? Any recommendations for a wheel builder near Carlow. Or Dublin if I have to.

ED E

Does it exist:

8 speed drop shifter with hydraulic braking?

8valve

ED E wrote: »

Does it exist:

8 speed drop shifter with hydraulic braking?

Not that I'm aware of....although I have heard talk of a tektro hydraulic caliper that is cable actuated from a traditional cable-brake shifter?

a148pro

What does it mean if you stand on the pedals on a descent and the bike starts to wobble, almost rhythmically? As in its wobbling itself. Wheels not trued?

8valve

a148pro wrote: »

What does it mean if you stand on the pedals on a descent and the bike starts to wobble, almost rhythmically? As in its wobbling itself. Wheels not trued?

Just a speed wobble?

Does it happen when seated?

magicbastarder

how fast was the wobble?
here's one example of speed wobble (starts 25-30s in)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T7kd3n9ydIM

Deano12345

8valve wrote: »

Not that I'm aware of....although I have heard talk of a tektro hydraulic caliper that is cable actuated from a traditional cable-brake shifter?

TRP also have the HY/RD system as well!

[Deleted User]

Shimano only made hydraulic available for Tiagra last year and I don't think i've seen it on any bike with a full Tiagra groupset yet even 2021 models.

Most I've seen have the Tektro or TRP system or for a 150 to 200 more a 105 groupset??? Pricing must be an issue there?

Manufactures clearly not keen to push Tiagra Hydraulic.

grogi

a148pro wrote: »

What does it mean if you stand on the pedals on a descent and the bike starts to wobble, almost rhythmically? As in its wobbling itself. Wheels not trued?

Nothing wrong. Each bike has its own resonance frequency. Use your tights to dampen the wobbling and try moving forward in the saddle.

8valve

Deano12345 wrote: »

TRP also have the HY/RD system as well!

Thats the one! TRP, not Tektro, as I posted! Getting good reviews from the cycling press too.

a148pro

8valve wrote: »

Just a speed wobble?

Does it happen when seated?

Doesn't happen seated, must be a normal thing so I was just worried it was indicative of some other problem

Zen0

Speed wobble. Only happened to me once, years ago on an old steel framed bike. Absolutely terrifying. I have seen the recommendation that you press your leg into the top tube to suppress the vibration. Pressing your tights against the top tube might work also, but only if you’re wearing them. Or in your case just sit back on the saddle.

JMcL

8valve wrote: »

Thats the one! TRP, not Tektro, as I posted! Getting good reviews from the cycling press too.

Yep, works well. Have it on the Croix de Fer and beyond changing pads, never had to do anything with it in nearly 4 years. Can't see any reason why it wouldn't work on an 8 speed shifter. I believe it needs compressionless outers though, but again that shouldn't be a blocker

ED E

8valve wrote: »

Not that I'm aware of....although I have heard talk of a tektro hydraulic caliper that is cable actuated from a traditional cable-brake shifter?

Deano12345 wrote: »

TRP also have the HY/RD system as well!

Hmm, not quite what I was looking for.

Deleted User wrote: »

Shimano only made hydraulic available for Tiagra last year and I don't think i've seen it on any bike with a full Tiagra groupset yet even 2021 models.

Most I've seen have the Tektro or TRP system or for a 150 to 200 more a 105 groupset??? Pricing must be an issue there?

Manufactures clearly not keen to push Tiagra Hydraulic.

JMcL wrote: »

Yep, works well. Have it on the Croix de Fer and beyond changing pads, never had to do anything with it in nearly 4 years. Can't see any reason why it wouldn't work on an 8 speed shifter. I believe it needs compressionless outers though, but again that shouldn't be a blocker

What I want to do is a bit unorthodox. Alfine/Nexus hub + drops w/ hyd. The Versa VRS8 is close but no hydraulic and looks to be a bit crap and impossible to find to boot. Theres Retroshift/Gevenalle too.

If its going to cost as much as I save on B2W its probably not worth it. Part of me says get over yourself and accept flat bars but I really do prefer drops(riding on the hoods).

Stumbled upon this while googling:
https://www.wired.com/2012/03/shimano-alfine-di2/

Kinda cool, never gonna be in budget for a 365 commuter as a retrofit. But that means the ST-R785 exists. Interesting.

grogi

ED E wrote: »

What I want to do is a bit unorthodox. Alfine/Nexus hub + drops w/ hyd.

Idea is fantastic, but are there Alfine brifters? I think the hub uses different indexing than standard derailleur...

ED E

grogi wrote: »

Idea is fantastic, but are there Alfine brifters? I think the hub uses different indexing than standard derailleur...

Yeah, thats kinda why Im asking. There are 11spd Alfines but not sure if the total travel matches at all with regular 11spd setups. Same for the 8s.

cletus

It's a while since I asked a stupid question, and I don't want to fall behind, so here it goes

I have Shimano Sora 9 speed cassette and rear derailleur on my gravel bike. I do get some chain slap.

Is there any way to retrofit a clutch mechanism, or is it just replace the derailleur, and if so can you even get 9 speed clutched rear deraillers