Water John wrote: » No, fencing is not a building. The VAT rebate is specifically for fixtures and fittings. For example if you get a stand by PTO driven generator you may or may not claim VAT back. You can if its bolted to the floor. You can't if the same generator has a three point linkage and is thus mobile. You charge the fencing materials as a cost on this year's accounts.
hopeso wrote: » I don’t know, as I never priced them. I won’t be buying anything from him. I’d assume they’d be a similar price to any of the others. Similar quality too, despite what you’ll be told on the phone ....... Don’t forget that you can reclaim the VAT on all fencing material too.....
blue5000 wrote: » Don't forget to keep all the receipts and claim the vat back.
cute geoge wrote: » you can drive posts in early spring with the loader no problem .I left off the cows on march 19th and was driving posts that week no problem with loader .My ground might not be the driest but for example the tyres were not tracking the ground at the time the post just slide into the ground with the pressure
cj maxx wrote: » I thought I read a post that mentions driving with a loader. Unless ground is soft a loader will drive F- all. Even at that if you hit a stone ..... Waste of time. If you're stuck for money and can't get posts and wire etc to drive with a track machine or post driver at the same time wait till October. Make holes with a crow bar and sink them as far as you can with a laden loader and use a post driver,not a sledge. Trust me from experience it's a half arsed job
893bet wrote: » Thanks for that. Are the agriknives ones pricey? As in comparable to PDM?
memorystick wrote: » Let us know how it goes. €166 for Haynes is saucy for a small farmer.
893bet wrote: » 3 meters? That very close! I cant afford that. Not with the level of fencing I would like to replace in the next 2 years. I think I need to put the money in the strainers. Haynes strainer is pricey. I went the budget option below! Its on route so will report when I have gotten a chance to use it.https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hausen-Strainer-Monkey-Tensioner-Stretcher/dp/B01CR9PZOM/ref=asc_df_B01CR9PZOM/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=231879852633&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15913419912477536009&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=20485&hvtargid=pla-422916195809&psc=1
hopeso wrote: » Any of the stakes you mentioned should be sound. Just don’t believe all the hype you’ll be told about the Agri knife ones when you go to price them....McNamara in Cork have good stakes, and would be well worth pricing too. They deliver nationwide. As already said, don’t even consider the sledge for driving them. Get someone with a post driver if possible. It’s way ahead of a machine for driving them, especially the strainers. I would consider stays for strainers crucial.
SuperTortoise wrote: » 3m between stakes, put 3 line of wire on, running a 3rd line is no hardship, about 10 inches between lines. I've been told the oct post are the business and although i have'nt used any the next bit of fencing done here they will be used. Go big enough with strainers, they make or break a good fence, use them in corners of field and where there is a kink in the ditch or a change in elevation. Invest in a haynes strainer, it's the cat's meow. If you have a lot to do, get a 13ton machine in to drive stakes and strainers. When pulling the wire start with the bottom line and work up, the bottom line will loosen a touch when the top line is pulled but the top line is more important. Don't drive home the staples, leave them so the next poor sod can get at them with a fencing pliers.
paddysdream wrote: » If you are getting someone in to drive strainers might as well get the stakes drove as well.25 strainers could take as long as 120 stakes or even a bit more if ground is tough.Couple of taps with post driver for a stake compared to a couple of minutes pounding for a strainer at times. 1)Depends on price a lot of the time plus whats available.Octo good but look rubbish if driven crooked.PDM good but not the quality they once were.No idea re Agri Knives ones ,only seen them on Donedeal. 2)No idea 3)Should be ok for 2 strands of barbed.Prefer 8ft ones esp. at ends.7ft. are more usually used as turners ie where the fence turns to follow the ditch. 3b)Again you get what you pay for.Seen 7ft "treated" ones I used a few weeks ago.Told they were 15 each.They were rough enough and reckon 5 years will see them out.It was a single strand electric fence for a dairy man on a leased farm so usual "no expense spared" job as you can imagine.Drew the line at using the MT wire he landed with though.30 Euro doesnt sound excessive for a good 8ft.Bit less for 7ft. 4) Usually all intermediate strainers are driven to same depth as stakes with end strainers about 4 inches above wire but thats just me.Looks a wee bit better. That said have driven a few with the chainsaw both this early Summer and 2 years ago esp. 9ft EBS pole offcuts alongside a ditch with numerous trees. 5)Not really necessary for 2 strands of barbed. 6)About an inch above top strand of wire so thats fence height dependent. 7)About 40-44 inches. 8)13/14 inches under the top one.Another strand of barbed wont break the bank esp. if you are doing it yourself.2 strands not a lot of fence and not too common around here apart from a temporary job esp. on rented land.That said its nearly all sheepwire I do.Any barbed only are usually 4 strands. 9)5m about right but another bit no harm. There should be no need to retension wire at all unless an end strainer breaks.Thats using HT barbed wire.MT wire is worse that useless and actually harder to erect.Wont strain correctly and will sag in a year or two no matter what you do.
_Brian wrote: » Post driver never a sledge, sledge just splits the post and it will rot in half the time.
paddysdream wrote: » Sledge is a solid waste of time and effort driving anything other than a single stake to replace a broken one and even at that would usually put on driver to do it. Drove 200 plus stakes (6ft. octo ones)last week in a place.All perfect apart from the one where couldn't reach it with the driver(middle of ditch where fence was continous in 2 different fields. Split the first stake totally and dumped it.Second one was not much better as it was starting to mushroom but left it alone after a couple of thumps. Sledge is only good for tapping in the jenny.
Water John wrote: » If it's a track machine is putting down the strainers, let him push down the stakes too if your ground isn't too hard. If the work is largely laid out it won't take long.
J.O. Farmer wrote: » A rubber mallet doesn't damage the post either but when the post driver is in use it.
patsy_mccabe wrote: » God, don't use a sledge....pure hardship. Use a bar first to find a hole free of rocks for the stake. It will avoid a lot of fustration with the post driver. hitting stones and you'll split them and drive them sideways.
memorystick wrote: » I bought a hand held stake driver. The pipe with the handles. It’ll knock the tits off me. 15kgs I think
893bet wrote: » I am going to doing alot (well alot for us) of fencing over the next 12 months. Currently putting together the first shopping list for an outfarm. Plan on getting the contractor to drive the strainers and then drive the posts myself with he sledge/front loader. Looking at 25 strainers and 120-150 posts. Barbed wire 2 strands (never saw the point of the bottom strand?). Questions for the masses. 1) Which posts? I am going to price PDM, Octo and Agriknives (if they deliver). It seems the current thinking is Agriknives. Open to other suggestions. 2) Do agriknives deliver? 3) Are 5-7 inch strainers "big" enough? 3b) How much is a typical strainer, local place has 7ft 5-7inch PDM ones for 30 euro. Seems expensive. Was expecting 15-20euro a piece. 4) How deep should a 7 foot strainer be driven? I am thinking down to 4.5 foot? 5) Are stays crucial for strainers? 6) What depth should a standard 6 ft post be driven to? 7) What height from the ground should the top row of barbed wire be? 8) What distance down from the top row should the second row sit? 9) Distance between posts? Will I get away with 6 meters? I don't want to be revisiting the fencing for at least 5 years other than to retension the wire and replace a staple.
