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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

is there a simple list of chemicals which you should not get near disc brake pads? i.e. would even something like a detergent cause issues with contamination; i was wondering as i was cleaning the bike earlier if i can be overcautious in cleaning the bike near the brakes.

any tips on looking after a steel frame? my latest purchase has mountings for racks and also a couple of unthreaded holes - should i tape those up to keep water out, or leave them uncovered to let the water out should it get in?

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crosstownk

dahat wrote: »

I'll be putting new chainrings on later, I've watched 3 videos so looks straightforward from those.

What could go wrong????

Knuckles.

crosstownk

I recently purchased a pair of Zonda 2 way wheels. Initially, I had planned on fitting tubes and regular clinchers but now I think I'll go tubeless.

What are people's opinions on which sealant is best? Or does it even matter?

Educate me, please.

dahat

crosstownk wrote: »

Knuckles.

Thankfully all went well, no lost skin & everything seems though a few efforts tomorrow will tell all.

El Tarangu

Hello,

Thanks for all of your answers to date, really useful. I have yet another question:

I bought a bike recently, 2nd hand, and the chain keeps jumping out from the jockey wheel on the rear derailleur.

Now, this suggests that the jockey wheels are worn out, or that maybe the RD hanger is broken. Is it possible to guess from the first two links what the issue might be?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/n1zjFVBAq9ahK8c16

https://photos.app.goo.gl/oL5wG94scNrofjm7A

I thought it might be that the chain was too long - does this seem to be case? (in smallest cog/smallest chainring)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/WJ3LwnwriaQAyhy29

Thanks,

E.

Ruth211

how do I replace a derailed?

triggermortis

swarlb wrote: »

Ye have to think 'sideways' sometimes to get a result. Go into your local motorfactors and you'll probably find something similar, or barring that your local hardware shop. They are not the preserve of 'bicycles'.....

A better deal here...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rubber-Lined-Zinc-Plated-Metal-P-Clips-for-Wire-Cable-Assorted-Box-45-Pieces/121341149539?hash=item1c407f0163:g:dhYAAOxyyFhTcmDr

magicbastarder

Ruth211 wrote: »

how do I replace a derailed?

front or rear? if you're not used to bike maintenance, probably best to bring it to a biek shop to do so.
what's the reason for replacement?

grogi

Ruth211 wrote: »

how do I replace a derailed?

0. Use your shifter to put the chain on smallest ring at the derailleur you're replacing (front or rear)
1. Take pictures how the chain goes through the cogs. Open the chain and take it out of the derailleur.
2. Unscrew the shifting cable.
3. Unscrew the derailleur
4. Remove the derailleur
5. Install new derailleur, and secure it with clamp or the applicable fixing.
6. Put chain through new derailleur and close the chain
7. Attach the shifting cable.
8. Align the tension of the cable and L/H screws for all gears to work properly.

cletus

Time for my weekly stupid question.

How is the width of drop bars measured? The interwebz does not give a consistent answer.

magicbastarder

It depends. Some manufacturers measure centre to centre where the bar plugs go, some measure total width.

CormacH94

How to tell I've sized my chain correctly (or incorrectly)

Any telltale signs for too long/short?

Type 17

CormacH94 wrote: »

How to tell I've sized my chain correctly (or incorrectly)

Any telltale signs for too long/short?

Too long: bottom run of chain rubs on rear derailleur jockey cage when in smallest sprocket/smallest chainring.

Too short: chain binds and won't allow shifting to largest sprocket/largest chainring.

Just right*: when in larger chainring/smallest sprocket, jockey wheel bolts are vertical in relation to each other (or less than a link-length of swing either way).

*This rule applies to road/hybrids with a double chainset - triple chainsets, MTB's with huge cassettes, 1x setups, and setups with cassettes over 34t largest may vary:
Park Tool video - how to size a chain gives you details for all setups

rayman1

CormacH94 wrote: »

How to tell I've sized my chain correctly (or incorrectly)

Any telltale signs for too long/short?

The easiest way to size it correctly is to simply use the same size that came on the bike as new.

Luxxis

Hi All,

are there any cheap options for the Sram XD freehub? 11 speed. Putting a mountain bike together and the wheels i got have that Sram XD freehub on the rear!

Cheers

grogi

Luxxis wrote: »

Hi All,

are there any cheap options for the Sram XD freehub? 11 speed. Putting a mountain bike together and the wheels i got have that Sram XD freehub on the rear!

Do you mean cassette or are you actually building the rear wheel? SunRace are making much more affordable cassettes.

Luxxis

grogi wrote: »

Do you mean cassette or are you actually building the rear wheel? SunRace are making much more affordable cassettes.

Yeah Cassette. SunRace nice one, I'll have a look.

Thanks grogi.

onlineweb

Hi

I'm getting a clicking noise when I move into the lowset gear - large cog. (Ultegra Groupset)

So basically the chain is on the largest cog on both back and front of the bike.

I was told that as a rule, I should not use large - large and small - small combinations.

Any suggestions?

Type 17

You were told correctly - riding with big-big or small-small is called cross-chaining and it causes rapid wear of chain, rings and sprockets.

The noise you hear is probably the chain rubbing on the cage of the front derailleur or the lower edge of the rear derailleur jockey cage.

onlineweb

Type 17 wrote: »

You were told correctly - riding with big-big or small-small is called cross-chaining and it causes rapid wear of chain, rings and sprockets.

The noise you hear is probably the chain rubbing on the cage of the front derailleur or the lower edge of the rear derailleur jockey cage.

Cool, so I should avoid this combination.

Do I need to take a look at the derailer or barrel adjuster or will I leave as is?

Deano12345

onlineweb wrote: »

Cool, so I should avoid this combination.

Do I need to take a look at the derailer or barrel adjuster or will I leave as is?

It’s probably adjusted correctly if you’re only getting a noise in the extreme end of the gears (big big or small small) . I’d always try and use my gears in such a way that I’m always at the middle of the cassette for most of the riding that I’d do, and if I am using gears at either end of the cassette, that I’m in the corresponding gear up front.

In my experience, I find Shimano rear mechs pretty accommodating, it tends to be a lack of front mech adjustment that tends to lead to a rub!

Deano12345

Bought a second hand disc wheel off eBay recently.

Came with a 10 speed cassette which I needed to swap to an 11 speed.

Took the cassette (Shimano if that matters) off with a lock ring removal tool and chain whip but now the axle is loose. Basically I can now pull the axle through and the freehub off.

Everything sits together and moves smoothly, but it's like there's no preload on the bearings to keep everything in place. I've tried putting a cassette on to see if the lock ring did that but I didn't tighten it all the way up.

Has anyone had something like this happen before? I assume I'm missing something simple! I can upload pictures of the hub/axle tomorrow.

Have checked the exploded diagram on Corimas site and I have all the parts in the assembly in the correct way.

cletus

Deano12345 wrote: »

Bought a second hand disc wheel off eBay recently.

Came with a 10 speed cassette which I needed to swap to an 11 speed.

Took the cassette (Shimano if that matters) off with a lock ring removal tool and chain whip but now the axle is loose. Basically I can now pull the axle through and the freehub off.

Everything sits together and moves smoothly, but it's like there's no preload on the bearings to keep everything in place. I've tried putting a cassette on to see if the lock ring did that but I didn't tighten it all the way up.

Has anyone had something like this happen before? I assume I'm missing something simple! I can upload pictures of the hub/axle tomorrow.

Have checked the exploded diagram on Corimas site and I have all the parts in the assembly in the correct way.

If it was me, I'd just tighten down the locking on the cassette you have and see how it feels.

Won't take more than a few minutes

cletus

Type 17 wrote: »

You were told correctly - riding with big-big or small-small is called cross-chaining and it causes rapid wear of chain, rings and sprockets.

The noise you hear is probably the chain rubbing on the cage of the front derailleur or the lower edge of the rear derailleur jockey cage.

I've often wondered how this works on a 1x setup. So you lose a gear at the top or bottom of the range, or is the chain ring set to be aligned with the middle of the cassette, or what?

grogi

Deano12345 wrote: »

It’s probably adjusted correctly if you’re only getting a noise in the extreme end of the gears (big big or small small) . I’d always try and use my gears in such a way that I’m always at the middle of the cassette for most of the riding that I’d do, and if I am using gears at either end of the cassette, that I’m in the corresponding gear up front.

In my experience, I find Shimano rear mechs pretty accommodating, it tends to be a lack of front mech adjustment that tends to lead to a rub!

That's what the trimming is for...

cletus wrote: »

I've often wondered how this works on a 1x setup. So you lose a gear at the top or bottom of the range, or is the chain ring set to be aligned with the middle of the cassette, or what?

With 1x, the front chain-ring should be aligned with the middle of the cassette. But 1x still causes a bit more chain deflection than 2x:

if you'd like to avoid chain angles larger than 2.5*, you'd loose two gears.
http://www.gear-calculator.com/?GR=DERS&KB=38&RZ=11,13,15,17,19,21,24,28,32,36,42,50&UF=2215&TF=90&SL=2.4&UN=KMH&DV=teeth

2.5 degrees with 2x gives you all the gears.
http://www.gear-calculator.com/?GR=DERS&KB=34,50&RZ=11,13,15,17,19,21,24,28,32,36,42,50&UF=2215&TF=90&SL=2.4&UN=KMH&DV=teeth

ironictoaster

Quick question.

I recently got a new bike however after a couple of days. I'm starting to notice a clicking sound when in the large chain ring in a high gear for every revolution. I checked obvious things like cables hitting the chain etc but I'm convinced it's the chain rubbing off the FR.

Just wondering does anyone think this is a quick fix?

I looked at a few videos and seems you change the limiting screws. I turned them slightly and retested and it seems not make a difference.

Am I better off going back to the shop with this?

Thanks!

Tony04

cletus wrote: »

I've often wondered how this works on a 1x setup. So you lose a gear at the top or bottom of the range, or is the chain ring set to be aligned with the middle of the cassette, or what?

Middle of the cassette you'll lose high gears and low gears depending on the chainring size not due to the chainline, in fact only really high gears thanks to the new high range cassettes, especially on enduro mtbs etc.

1 x is a better system imo as its simpler but just doesn't have the range on a road bike

grogi

ironictoaster wrote: »

Quick question.

I recently got a new bike however after a couple of days. I'm starting to notice a clicking sound when in the large chain ring in a high gear for every revolution. I checked obvious things like cables hitting the chain etc but I'm convinced it's the chain rubbing off the FR.

Just wondering does anyone think this is a quick fix?

I looked at a few videos and seems you change the limiting screws. I turned them slightly and retested and it seems not make a difference.

Am I better off going back to the shop with this?

Thanks!

Don't touch the limiting screws unless you physically moved the front derailleur. There should be a barrel screw somewhere on the shifting cable to regulate the shifting; unfortunately I've seen a trend where more and more manufacturers ditch it to save €0.50 per bike. Precise regulation is much more difficult then, as you have to loosen the cable at the derailleur.

ironictoaster

grogi wrote: »

Don't touch the limiting screws unless you physically moved the front derailleur. There should be a barrel screw somewhere on the shifting cable to regulate the shifting; unfortunately I've seen a trend where more and more manufacturers ditch it to save €0.50 per bike. Precise regulation is much more difficult then, as you have to loosen the cable at the derailleur.

Thanks for that. Unfortunately I did move the screws. I should have taken a photo of the screws before moving them in hindsight...

I think might bring it back to the shop.. I didn't know bikes need such fine tuning.

Type 17

ironictoaster wrote: »

Thanks for that. Unfortunately I did move the screws. I should have taken a photo of the screws before moving them in hindsight...

I think might bring it back to the shop.. I didn't know bikes need such fine tuning.

They don't, if it was done right before delivery

If the initial click-every-rotation is still there, check if the right-hand crank arm is brushing against the rear of the derailleur cage or, if applicable, if the plastic chain-guard ring is brushing the derailleur cage (and clicking, as the gap in it behind the crank arm passes the derailleur).

magicbastarder

onlineweb wrote: »

Cool, so I should avoid this combination.

not just big (up front) to biggest (at back) - you should try to avoid going from big up front to maybe the three biggest at the back. those gear ratios will be available - without cross chaining - going from the small up front to the gears on the middle at the back.

it's common enough that if you want to change to an easier gear, but have travelled far enough up the cassette at the back, to drop to the smaller ring on the front while dropping two small rings down at the back.