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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

is there a simple list of chemicals which you should not get near disc brake pads? i.e. would even something like a detergent cause issues with contamination; i was wondering as i was cleaning the bike earlier if i can be overcautious in cleaning the bike near the brakes.

any tips on looking after a steel frame? my latest purchase has mountings for racks and also a couple of unthreaded holes - should i tape those up to keep water out, or leave them uncovered to let the water out should it get in?

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cletus

loyatemu wrote: »

what type of bike is that from?

I replaced a cup and cone style bracket like that with a cartridge style in an old mountain bike I had - just needed to match the size of the hole in the frame. The toughest bit was getting the old bracket out but you've done that.

It's from a mid 80's Muddy Fox.

So, I had a bit of a brainwave. It's only the first 2 and a half threads that are damaged, and it's only the threads after these that were being used to lock down the cup (I presume they were damaged due to being exposed).

I've threaded the lock ring on from the opposite side, up as far as it will go, and (hopefully) clearing the point where it will be locked down once the bearings and spindle are in place

loyatemu

I reckon this is what you need, English thread, and whatever length spindle matches the old one. You'll also need crank bolts as the threads on the new bracket are internal rather than external:

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-un55-square-taper-bottom-bracket/rp-prod71369

Type 17

Either:

Use the old one (screwing on the lockring from the inside of the cup before screwing it into the frame as you mention), or

Buy the cartridge one - English thread, same spindle-length as the old one (excluding the make threaded sections at the end), and the BB shell on your bike should be 68mm wide, but might be 70mm - check before ordering. These cartridge BBs almost always come with the correct bolts, so no need to order separately. Note that you'll need the correct tool to fit this type (fancier versions are available, but this one is great for occasional use).

Tony04

cletus wrote: »

Definitely English threaded 68mm or maybe 73mm(unlikely). Although that bb does look weird as crank bolt threading is male rather than female so if you get a new square Taper bb the crank might not necessarily be compatible.

seamus

caviardreams wrote: »

Thanks guys

It's a Giant (Liv) Avail 2 2015 size medium - sorry I worded that badly by saying I got it recently - I got it 4 years ago but never really used it (mainly because of the twitchiness) so it feels brand new in my head it ended up indoors for the last 4 years after a few weeks of trying it and I only took it out again a few weeks ago and got it serviced. Trying to stick with it this time but it's not getting any easier steering wise and I've been out for an hour's cycle 9 or 10 times now. It feels best / most stable on the hoods but still very twitchy/slippy.

https://www.liv-cycling.com/ie/avail-2-2015

Few things to check here:

1. Ensure the tyres are properly pumped up. You want them at 80psi minimum if you're light. I expect most riders probably run at 100psi, I run mine at 110.

2. Check to see if the wheels run straight. That is, spin the wheels and look at them from above and from the side. You're looking to see if there's any side-to-side or up-and-down movement. There may be tiny movements, that's OK. But more than a couple of mm in any direction could be enough.

3. Make sure the wheels are sitting in secure and straight. Turn the bike upside-down, loosen the quick release on both wheels and ensure the wheels are sitting right into the drop-outs. Then tighten up the quick release. The levers should be tight enough that you need a bit of effort to open/close them. That is, they shouldn't be so loose that a flick of the finger will open them, nor so tight that you leave a mark on your hand when closing them.

4. Make sure the headset is still smooth:
Stand over the bike, hold the front brake and rock the bike slowly back and forth. If you can feel a "clicking" through the handlebars, then your headset is loose (or the bearings are shot).
Lift the front wheel up and hold the frame between your legs. Turn the handlebars left and right. It should be smooth with no roughness or resistance. Turn the bars to the 1 o'clock position and let go. They should fall naturally to the right. If they stay in that position, your headset might be too tight or seized up.

5. Check the wheel bearings. When in the frame, hold the wheel between your thumb and index finger and gently rock it side-to-side. Movement is normal, wheels are flexible. But it's shouldn't "click" or "thud". If it does, your wheel bearings need a service.

Type 17

Tony04 wrote: »

...that bb does look weird as crank bolt threading is male rather than female so if you get a new square Taper bb the crank might not necessarily be compatible.

Older/cheaper stuff was male-threaded with a nut like this (cheaper to make the spindle with external threads), but female-threaded spindle with a bolt is universal now because it tends not to come loose like the nut version. The taper is the same spec, so any square-taper crank that fits one spindle type will also fit the other.

Tony04

Type 17 wrote: »

Older/cheaper stuff was male-threaded with a nut like this (cheaper to make the spindle with external threads), but female-threaded spindle with a bolt is universal now because it tends not to come loose like the nut version. The taper is the same spec, so any square-taper crank that fits one spindle type will also fit the other.

You would have to get a new fixing bolt though?

Type 17

All new BBs come with the bolts required.

dahat

Update on my creaking noise / sound.

After headset drama with a new BB the source of the creak has been found this morning. BB had play so needed doing anyway.

The carbon soles on my Northwave shoes are cracked, absolutely sickened & an expensive fix.

magicbastarder

you're clearly putting out too much power.

Hairy Japanese BASTARDS!

A novice question about gears.

What's the best way to select the optimal great? If my understanding is right and I'm open to being corrected.

The 3 gears at the pedal are selected based on gradient, 1 for going uphill to get power without necessarily speed, 2 for on the flat, 3 for downhill because it's "easier".

The back gears, 1-7, (derailer ??) are simply increased the faster you go. I'm probably miles off.

My late uncle had an unusual gear system on his, it was a little lever on the crossbar that you moved forward or back. I've never seen anything like it before.

CramCycle

Hairy Japanese BASTARDS! wrote: »

The 3 gears at the pedal are selected based on gradient, 1 for going uphill to get power without necessarily speed, 2 for on the flat, 3 for downhill because it's "easier".

More for speed, ability and comfort than specifically up or down, some like to go slower, some like to go faster and some like to spin at a certain speed, these help with that. Obvious exceptions are steep hills where unless your a pro, your going to be using the little one.

The back gears, 1-7, (derailer ??) are simply increased the faster you go. I'm probably miles off.

Again you just flick between them to find whats comfortable

My late uncle had an unusual gear system on his, it was a little lever on the crossbar that you moved forward or back. I've never seen anything like it before.

Friction shifter, very common years ago, same principle as a normal shifter, you move it a bit, it either tightens or slackens the cable and the derailleur moves.

magicbastarder

Hairy Japanese BASTARDS! wrote: »

What's the best way to select the optimal great? If my understanding is right and I'm open to being corrected.

generally (and this can vary from person to person) a cadence of about 80RPM is considered the best to balance power and effort. so pedal a little over once a second, using a gear which allows you to comfortably manage it.
if you find yourself straining to maintain that cadence in a particular gear, change to an easier gear.
YMMV, but you'll learn to get a sense of what is most comfortable and sustainable for you.

loyatemu

I spend 90% of my time on the middle ring (2) at the front - I only change to 1 on steep hills, and to 3 when I'm trying to really go fast downhill.
Most of your gear-changes should be to the rear gears.

ofthelord

Hi All,
Can someone please tell me the name of the small round plastic cover that fits this hole?
I only noticed the other day that the old plastic cover is missing and I'm guessing it is there to keep dust/dirt out so probably a good idea to replace it.
I've run a few internet searches to identify the part name but have had no luck.
Thanks.

[Deleted User]

ofthelord wrote: »

Hi All,
Can someone please tell me the name of the small round plastic cover that fits this hole?
I only noticed the other day that the old plastic cover is missing and I'm guessing it is there to keep dust/dirt out so probably a good idea to replace it.
I've run a few internet searches to identify the part name but have had no luck.
Thanks.

Derailleur hanger plug I believe.

ofthelord

Hi All,
A 2nd question that someone may also be able to help me with...
I've identified the cause of an annoying clicking sound on my bike, it is one of the plastic entry points where the cabling going into the frame(it is the top one shown on image). Going over bumps this plastic part clicks(and there are a lot of bumps on the roads near me!).
I'm not sure how to approach this, and I'm hopeful that someone here can point me to a simple fix for this?

Thanks.

caviardreams

seamus wrote: »

Few things to check here

Thanks seamus - that's really helpful!! Much appreciated.

magicbastarder

to be fair though, you may have just hit on a new diagnostic method for bike issues.

'my cassette is making a strange noise when freewheeling'
'well if it sounds like squarepusher it's the pawls, but if it sounds more like aphex twin, it's the bearings' etc.

[Deleted User]

Wow a squarepusher mention in the cycling forum , love this guy. Known for his electronic music but is one of the most under radar bass players of all time. He's done full shows just him on bass.

'Detroit People Mover' video is great if you haven't seen it yet.

Type 17

ofthelord wrote: »

Hi All,
A 2nd question that someone may also be able to help me with...
I've identified the cause of an annoying clicking sound on my bike, it is one of the plastic entry points where the cabling going into the frame(it is the top one shown on image). Going over bumps this plastic part clicks(and there are a lot of bumps on the roads near me!).
I'm not sure how to approach this, and I'm hopeful that someone here can point me to a simple fix for this?

Thanks.

Could be grit between the cable-housing and its ferrule (cap), or between the ferrule and the frame-guide - drop some oil into the joins to see if it helps.

If not, it's the wires that make up the housing moving around in the inside of the ferrule - only guaranteed solution is to disassemble and trim a few mm off the housing and replace the ferrule with a new one.

magicbastarder

what are people's thoughts on swapping front and back tyres around to maintain equal wear?
note: neither tyre is heavily worn at all. front still has the mould line visible down the centre.

cletus

magicbastarder wrote: »

what are people's thoughts on swapping front and back tyres around to maintain equal wear?
note: neither tyre is heavily worn at all. front still has the mould line visible down the centre.

https://sheldonbrown.com/tire-rotation.html

Essentially, the recommendation seems to be swap front to back, and put a new one on the front

07Lapierre

magicbastarder wrote: »

what are people's thoughts on swapping front and back tyres around to maintain equal wear?
note: neither tyre is heavily worn at all. front still has the mould line visible down the centre.

Always better to have a good tyre on the front. Just buy a new tyre to replace the rear. Leave the existing front tyre where it is.

crosstownk

07Lapierre wrote: »

Always better to have a good tyre on the front. Just buy a new tyre to replace the rear. Leave the existing front tyre where it is.

I'd be of this opinion also. Keep the best grip up front.

That said, I usually replace tyres in pairs and keep the used front as an 'emergency' back up. I've loads of ex-front tyres in the shed.

magicbastarder

crosstownk wrote: »

I'd be of this opinion also. Keep the best grip up front.

i would assume that a reasonably worn tyre would have the same grip levels as a new one, the issue i thought would be more to do with puncture protection/prevention.

07Lapierre

crosstownk wrote: »

I'd be of this opinion also. Keep the best grip up front.

That said, I usually replace tyres in pairs and keep the used front as an 'emergency' back up. I've loads of ex-front tyres in the shed.

I do the same..that's why I have a garage full of half worn tyres!

crosstownk

magicbastarder wrote: »

i would assume that a reasonably worn tyre would have the same grip levels as a new one, the issue i thought would be more to do with puncture protection/prevention.

Yeah - I'd say you could be right but usually a reasonably used rear tyre will be a bit 'flatter' which may have some effect on grip at the front. I'm not sure if there's science behind it but I just feel more comfortable with a fresher tyre at the front.

Type 17

Tread/thickness doesn't equal grip, so a worn road bike tyre has the same grip (unless it's got a severe flat zone worn into the centre and is pumped to the max - then, during cornering, it might have a smaller contact area).

Car tyres do need tread to allow water to pass from in front of the contact area to behind it (bald tyres allow water to build up in front, the tyre rises up onto it, and you go aquaplaning). Apparently, for a bike tyre to need tread to avoid aquaplaning, you'd need to be doing 300km/h.

Thinner tyres do have less puncture protection, though.

07Lapierre

magicbastarder wrote: »

i would assume that a reasonably worn tyre would have the same grip levels as a new one, the issue i thought would be more to do with puncture protection/prevention.

In my experience, I get more punctures in the rear tyre, than the front. This is because there is more weight on the rear wheel. Even a part worn tyre on the front, will get less punctures than the rear tyre.