the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

68 lost souls wrote: »

Changing to tubeless on Fulcrum Racing 3. They are tubeless ready and no spoke holes, didn't order rim tape as I'm assuming with this rim I wont need it? Or do I assume wrong?

I've the clincher version and rim tape is not needed so I'd say the tubeless is the same.

“Gottfried of France” any info? I’ve had it for a long time, it got retired when the positronic rear derailleur solid cable snapped.
Pp

68 lost souls

crosstownk wrote: »

I've the clincher version and rim tape is not needed so I'd say the tubeless is the same.

Im also assuming I haven’t made a horrible mistake and mine are definitely two way fit. I bought them second hand and I think they are. Going off the middle on the sticker inside the rim they are two way

JMcL

My right hand 105 shifter started giving me grief about a week before the lockdown. I was out for a spin and it got stuck on the lower half of the block and wouldn't shift up. It would shift down no problem (adding tension to the cable) so the inevitable happened and I wound up in the 28 cog with about 20km to home on a brass monkeys morning. LBS changed the cable before lockdown, but were more keen to make sure the bike didn't get locked up in the shop for the duration I think. That sorted it briefly but same thing happened after about 10km. I have it up on the turbo at the moment, and can get it to shift up by putting outward pressure on the shifter first which seems to engage the pawls - ok on the turbo, but not ideal on the road.

Googleing - aside from the singular bright spark that suggested dismantling it - suggested blasting it with WD40 to shift all the old lube which apparently gums up over time (they've probably about 12000km on them). I wasn't convinced as the WD40 would strip out all the lube I'd have thought.

Anybody any thoughts on this? If I use the WD40 should I relube with something and what? I have standard bike grease and I think silicone grease someplace. Also, I have GT85 and some PTFE Lidl spray I picked up recently.

JMcL wrote: »

My right hand 105 shifter started giving me grief about a week before the lockdown. I was out for a spin and it got stuck on the lower half of the block and wouldn't shift up. It would shift down no problem (adding tension to the cable) so the inevitable happened and I wound up in the 28 cog with about 20km to home on a brass monkeys morning. LBS changed the cable before lockdown, but were more keen to make sure the bike didn't get locked up in the shop for the duration I think. That sorted it briefly but same thing happened after about 10km. I have it up on the turbo at the moment, and can get it to shift up by putting outward pressure on the shifter first which seems to engage the pawls - ok on the turbo, but not ideal on the road.

Googleing - aside from the singular bright spark that suggested dismantling it - suggested blasting it with WD40 to shift all the old lube which apparently gums up over time (they've probably about 12000km on them). I wasn't convinced as the WD40 would strip out all the lube I'd have thought.

Anybody any thoughts on this? If I use the WD40 should I relube with something and what? I have standard bike grease and I think silicone grease someplace. Also, I have GT85 and some PTFE Lidl spray I picked up recently.

This video looks like the easiest place to start

If you have a contact cleaner or aerosol chain cleaner, id try that before the WD40, but if not, use what you have.

THe PTFE spray should be fine for the levers afterwards

68 lost souls wrote: »

Im also assuming I haven’t made a horrible mistake and mine are definitely two way fit. I bought them second hand and I think they are. Going off the middle on the sticker inside the rim they are two way

I've to change a tube in my front wheel so if you need to do any comparisons just let me know and I'll take any photos that might help you to verify.

68 lost souls

Thanks Crosstwonk, tyres arrived today so Ill try fit them without sealant first and see how it goes.

If you happen to be taking a look inside anyway there should be a sticker in the rim, mine says Model: R3-13CFRBS1TW

Im pretty sure the TW is "two way"

The M/N on my front rim is also R3|13CFRBS1TW.

I bought the wheels in December 2016 but the date of manufacture is June 2014. I don't think tubeless was as big a thing back then.

It's even more confusing now

Let me know how you get on. I'd be happy to find out that I have a set of tubeless ready wheels!!

JMcL wrote: »

My right hand 105 shifter started giving me grief .......

Peel back the hoods and check that the cable isn't frayed where it takes the 90 degree bend. I know it's a new cable but still worth checking. A frayed cable can jam. Also check that the hood is sitting correctly as it can foul the shift levers is it isn't seated properly.

Any time I've experienced a shifting problem like you describe, it's been a jammed, frayed cable.

It's also worth ensuring that the outer cable from the frame stop to the derailleur (at the chain stay) isn't gunked up.

Gasco

Hi,

I have a set of Superstar Components Pave 28s with the Icon hubs.

Due to my other rear wheel making a dull click on every revolution on the turbo, which is driving me mad (possibly a damaged spoke, so I will bring to the LBS once restrictions allow), I want to use the rear Pave 28 on the turbo.

However the freehub body has very deep bite marks from the cassette, it was a real struggle to get the cassette off, so I was going to replace the freehub, easy job and Superstar Components have them.

But, I don't want to have to do the same thing in a few months, so was researching alternatives to the Icon freehub. Google told me that the Icons are rebranded Novatec hubs - so I was thinking of getting one of the newer Novatec freehubs with the Anti - bite Guard. SPA cycles have the Novatec B2 cassette body - which looks like it will do the job, anyone know if this is the case before I press go??

thanks

G'co

JMcL

cletus wrote: »

This video looks like the easiest place to start

If you have a contact cleaner or aerosol chain cleaner, id try that before the WD40, but if not, use what you have.

THe PTFE spray should be fine for the levers afterwards

Cheers, I'll have a look at that. For some reason I didn't come across it when I was looking. I think I've a aerosol of degreaser someplace with some left in it

crosstownk wrote: »

Peel back the hoods and check that the cable isn't frayed where it takes the 90 degree bend. I know it's a new cable but still worth checking. A frayed cable can jam. Also check that the hood is sitting correctly as it can foul the shift levers is it isn't seated properly.

Any time I've experienced a shifting problem like you describe, it's been a jammed, frayed cable.

It's also worth ensuring that the outer cable from the frame stop to the derailleur (at the chain stay) isn't gunked up.

I was wondering about that. The cable snapped in the shifter on me last summer leaving the head in the shifter and a bit of effort required to get it out. I've probably somewhere in the region of about 3000km on the replacement cable with no issues until a few weeks ago, but I'm wondering is there a stray strand of cable that was left floating around that just got dislodged and started interfering with the mechanism. I've had a fairly good look, but didn't see anything obvious. I'm 99% sure it's the shifter that's the issue - when I try to shift up, there's no resistance at all from the shifter paddle, and since the cable's under a fair amount of tension, it should move up the block relatively easily. I'm going to bite the bullet this weekend and see if I can get it sorted

So, for my next stupid question...

I have mislaid a Shimano Acera front derailleur (at least I assume it was, the rear deraileur is an Acera) from a bike with a 3x7 setup, 48t on the biggest chain ring. Ive been looking around for a replacement, but no luck so far.

I did, however, find the derailleur below. Could anyone with more knowledge than I tell me if this would be a suitable replacement

https://www.bankruptbikeparts.co.uk/shimano-altus-fd-m313-mtb-bike-triple-front-gear-mech-derailleur-with-dual-pull-34-9mm-fd-m313?search=altus%20front%20derailleur

Relevant description from the website here:

Shimano Altus FD-M313 mtb bike triple front gear mech/derailleur with dual pull 34.9mm

Made for 7 or 8 speed which means 21 or 24 speed if using a triple chainwheel or 14 or 16 if using a double chainwheel

Dual pull so can be used as a top cable pull (cable from above) or bottom cable pull (cable from below)

Down swing (high mount bracket)

Largest chainwheel size 42/48 teeth chainrings

66/69 degree

Maximum capacity 20 teeth

Top/middle difference 10 teeth

Chainline 47/50mm

Band size 34.9mm

CantGetNoSleep

I've got a set of new wheels coming with the 12-speed Sram XDR freehub, I need to change them for 11-speed Shimano.

Anyone know what I need to order? I've had a look online but it is a bit confusing.

Hubs are DT Swiss 240 and running disc brakes / thru axles if that makes a difference

Cee-Jay-Cee

cletus wrote: »

So, for my next stupid question...

I have mislaid a Shimano Acera front derailleur (at least I assume it was, the rear deraileur is an Acera) from a bike with a 3x7 setup, 48t on the biggest chain ring. Ive been looking around for a replacement, but no luck so far.

I did, however, find the derailleur below. Could anyone with more knowledge than I tell me if this would be a suitable replacement

https://www.bankruptbikeparts.co.uk/shimano-altus-fd-m313-mtb-bike-triple-front-gear-mech-derailleur-with-dual-pull-34-9mm-fd-m313?search=altus%20front%20derailleur

Relevant description from the website here:

Shimano Altus FD-M313 mtb bike triple front gear mech/derailleur with dual pull 34.9mm

Made for 7 or 8 speed which means 21 or 24 speed if using a triple chainwheel or 14 or 16 if using a double chainwheel

Dual pull so can be used as a top cable pull (cable from above) or bottom cable pull (cable from below)

Down swing (high mount bracket)

Largest chainwheel size 42/48 teeth chainrings

66/69 degree

Maximum capacity 20 teeth

Top/middle difference 10 teeth

Chainline 47/50mm

Band size 34.9mm

Google your bike make/model and year and find out what FD it came with and then check the shimano compatability chart but i'd say it'll work fine. The spacing on triple ring cranksets hasn't changed in years so any triple FD will work.

https://productinfo.shimano.com/#/com?cid=C-432&acid=C-439

Type 17

Also measure the diameter of your frame to see if it’s 34.9mm or a smaller size (31.8 or 28.6). If it’s smaller, be sure to ask bankrupt bike parts to include the relevant spacers (Shimano supply them with every FD, but their old-stock FD’s may not have them unless you confirm that you need them).

Thanks for the responses folks. I had emailed bankruptbikeparts and asked to be notified if a suitable derailleur cane back into stock.

They came back to me today to say that the 8 speed Acera they had listed on their site was suitable for 7, 8 and 9 speed, as well as having the appropriate shim (thanks Type17)

Bought and paid for.

EDit

Currently have a 52/36 and 11-30 set up on bike. Need a bit extra on hills, so was contemplating switching out the rear cassette for an 11-32. A couple of questions....

1) I assume with an 11-30 on there at the moment, my bike will have a medium cage rear derailleur. If so, will that accommodate the 11-32 switch?

2) will I need to change the chain at all?

Basically, hoping I can just switch the cassettes over and be on my way

Cheers

CramCycle

Provided your chain was the right length, yep, just switch cassettes. Derailleur should take the extra teeth and the slight increase in movement for the derailleur in that gear.

CantGetNoSleep

I'm not certain that 11-30 means medium cage. This seems to me to be a very recent standard, I'm looking for a bike atm and almost all have the exact gearing you mention. I thought it was because it is the longest for the newer range of Shimano groupsets in short cage. I also think that while 30 might be the maximum as per specification, you can get away with a 32 easily.

Open to correction on both of these points though.

EDit

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

I'm not certain that 11-30 means medium cage. This seems to me to be a very recent standard, I'm looking for a bike atm and almost all have the exact gearing you mention. I thought it was because it is the longest for the newer range of Shimano groupsets in short cage. I also think that while 30 might be the maximum as per specification, you can get away with a 32 easily.

Open to correction on both of these points though.

You might be right. Just looked at Shimano website and it seems the short cage R8000 ultegra derailleur can accommodate up to 11-30, so it is possible that my bike (2019 Giant TCR Advanced Pro disc) has the short cage version. Annoyingly, the giant website and all booklets that came with the bike don’t mention cage size. I’ll have to try and find out if you can tell which cage you have from it’s length/dimensions

Edit: just found out that the plastic part between the 2 sprockets has the size written on it (ss = small; gs = medium). Mine has ss, so is small.

Cee-Jay-Cee

EDit wrote: »

You might be right. Just looked at Shimano website and it seems the short cage R8000 ultegra derailleur can accommodate up to 11-30, so it is possible that my bike (2019 Giant TCR Advanced Pro disc) has the short cage version. Annoyingly, the giant website and all booklets that came with the bike don’t mention cage size. I’ll have to try and find out if you can tell which cage you have from it’s length/dimensions

Edit: just found out that the plastic part between the 2 sprockets has the size written on it (ss = small; gs = medium). Mine has ss, so is small.

It’ll still be fine. Shimano state 30T for the SS but in reality they’ll easily take a 32T and at a push 34T (with B screw wound in fully)

A quick Q, if I may...
2010-ish Felt Q200 MTB.
A broken spoke at the back, need to remove the cassette, the cassette lockring seems not to be a 12 spline of any diameter, but a 4 spline of some type. Any ideas? Thx.

woody33 wrote: »

A quick Q, if I may...
2010-ish Felt Q200 MTB.
A broken spoke at the back, need to remove the cassette, the cassette lockring seems not to be a 12 spline of any diameter, but a 4 spline of some type. Any ideas? Thx.

https://youtu.be/iTJ3taJHOn8

7.04 of this video shows a 4 spline tool being used on, I think, a Suntour cassette.

Type 17

woody33 wrote: »

A quick Q, if I may...
2010-ish Felt Q200 MTB.
A broken spoke at the back, need to remove the cassette, the cassette lockring seems not to be a 12 spline of any diameter, but a 4 spline of some type. Any ideas? Thx.

cletus wrote: »

https://youtu.be/iTJ3taJHOn8

7.04 of this video shows a 4 spline tool being used on, I think, a Suntour cassette.

Sounds like it's a freewheel, rather than a cassette (the video shows a freewheel at 7:04)

Type 17 wrote: »

Sounds like it's a freewheel, rather than a cassette (the video shows a freewheel at 7:04)

Apologies, freewheel.

cletus wrote: »

https://youtu.be/iTJ3taJHOn8

7.04 of this video shows a 4 spline tool being used on, I think, a Suntour cassette.

Thanks, one of those seems to be what is needed. I'll talk to my LBS, see if he can help. How bad us it to ride with a snapped spoke, I wonder? Some of the others are loose too, as a result, I imagine. Had to back off the brake as the wheel was rubbing in spots.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Park-Tool-FR-3-Freewheel-Remover/dp/B00TQU5HEY

Think this is what you want.

Someone else will have to advise re cycling with a broken spoke (you probably can, but you probably shouldn't would be my personal take

)