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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

is there a simple list of chemicals which you should not get near disc brake pads? i.e. would even something like a detergent cause issues with contamination; i was wondering as i was cleaning the bike earlier if i can be overcautious in cleaning the bike near the brakes.

any tips on looking after a steel frame? my latest purchase has mountings for racks and also a couple of unthreaded holes - should i tape those up to keep water out, or leave them uncovered to let the water out should it get in?

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CantGetNoSleep

I've got a set of new wheels coming with the 12-speed Sram XDR freehub, I need to change them for 11-speed Shimano.

Anyone know what I need to order? I've had a look online but it is a bit confusing.

Hubs are DT Swiss 240 and running disc brakes / thru axles if that makes a difference

cletus

So, for my next stupid question...

I have mislaid a Shimano Acera front derailleur (at least I assume it was, the rear deraileur is an Acera) from a bike with a 3x7 setup, 48t on the biggest chain ring. Ive been looking around for a replacement, but no luck so far.

I did, however, find the derailleur below. Could anyone with more knowledge than I tell me if this would be a suitable replacement

https://www.bankruptbikeparts.co.uk/shimano-altus-fd-m313-mtb-bike-triple-front-gear-mech-derailleur-with-dual-pull-34-9mm-fd-m313?search=altus%20front%20derailleur

Relevant description from the website here:

Shimano Altus FD-M313 mtb bike triple front gear mech/derailleur with dual pull 34.9mm

Made for 7 or 8 speed which means 21 or 24 speed if using a triple chainwheel or 14 or 16 if using a double chainwheel

Dual pull so can be used as a top cable pull (cable from above) or bottom cable pull (cable from below)

Down swing (high mount bracket)

Largest chainwheel size 42/48 teeth chainrings

66/69 degree

Maximum capacity 20 teeth

Top/middle difference 10 teeth

Chainline 47/50mm

Band size 34.9mm

JMcL

cletus wrote: »

This video looks like the easiest place to start

If you have a contact cleaner or aerosol chain cleaner, id try that before the WD40, but if not, use what you have.

THe PTFE spray should be fine for the levers afterwards

Cheers, I'll have a look at that. For some reason I didn't come across it when I was looking. I think I've a aerosol of degreaser someplace with some left in it

crosstownk wrote: »

Peel back the hoods and check that the cable isn't frayed where it takes the 90 degree bend. I know it's a new cable but still worth checking. A frayed cable can jam. Also check that the hood is sitting correctly as it can foul the shift levers is it isn't seated properly.

Any time I've experienced a shifting problem like you describe, it's been a jammed, frayed cable.

It's also worth ensuring that the outer cable from the frame stop to the derailleur (at the chain stay) isn't gunked up.

I was wondering about that. The cable snapped in the shifter on me last summer leaving the head in the shifter and a bit of effort required to get it out. I've probably somewhere in the region of about 3000km on the replacement cable with no issues until a few weeks ago, but I'm wondering is there a stray strand of cable that was left floating around that just got dislodged and started interfering with the mechanism. I've had a fairly good look, but didn't see anything obvious. I'm 99% sure it's the shifter that's the issue - when I try to shift up, there's no resistance at all from the shifter paddle, and since the cable's under a fair amount of tension, it should move up the block relatively easily. I'm going to bite the bullet this weekend and see if I can get it sorted

Gasco

Hi,

I have a set of Superstar Components Pave 28s with the Icon hubs.

Due to my other rear wheel making a dull click on every revolution on the turbo, which is driving me mad (possibly a damaged spoke, so I will bring to the LBS once restrictions allow), I want to use the rear Pave 28 on the turbo.

However the freehub body has very deep bite marks from the cassette, it was a real struggle to get the cassette off, so I was going to replace the freehub, easy job and Superstar Components have them.

But, I don't want to have to do the same thing in a few months, so was researching alternatives to the Icon freehub. Google told me that the Icons are rebranded Novatec hubs - so I was thinking of getting one of the newer Novatec freehubs with the Anti - bite Guard. SPA cycles have the Novatec B2 cassette body - which looks like it will do the job, anyone know if this is the case before I press go??

thanks

G'co

crosstownk

JMcL wrote: »

My right hand 105 shifter started giving me grief .......

Peel back the hoods and check that the cable isn't frayed where it takes the 90 degree bend. I know it's a new cable but still worth checking. A frayed cable can jam. Also check that the hood is sitting correctly as it can foul the shift levers is it isn't seated properly.

Any time I've experienced a shifting problem like you describe, it's been a jammed, frayed cable.

It's also worth ensuring that the outer cable from the frame stop to the derailleur (at the chain stay) isn't gunked up.

crosstownk

The M/N on my front rim is also R3|13CFRBS1TW.

I bought the wheels in December 2016 but the date of manufacture is June 2014. I don't think tubeless was as big a thing back then.

It's even more confusing now

Let me know how you get on. I'd be happy to find out that I have a set of tubeless ready wheels!!

68 lost souls

Thanks Crosstwonk, tyres arrived today so Ill try fit them without sealant first and see how it goes.

If you happen to be taking a look inside anyway there should be a sticker in the rim, mine says Model: R3-13CFRBS1TW

Im pretty sure the TW is "two way"

crosstownk

68 lost souls wrote: »

Im also assuming I haven’t made a horrible mistake and mine are definitely two way fit. I bought them second hand and I think they are. Going off the middle on the sticker inside the rim they are two way

I've to change a tube in my front wheel so if you need to do any comparisons just let me know and I'll take any photos that might help you to verify.

cletus

JMcL wrote: »

My right hand 105 shifter started giving me grief about a week before the lockdown. I was out for a spin and it got stuck on the lower half of the block and wouldn't shift up. It would shift down no problem (adding tension to the cable) so the inevitable happened and I wound up in the 28 cog with about 20km to home on a brass monkeys morning. LBS changed the cable before lockdown, but were more keen to make sure the bike didn't get locked up in the shop for the duration I think. That sorted it briefly but same thing happened after about 10km. I have it up on the turbo at the moment, and can get it to shift up by putting outward pressure on the shifter first which seems to engage the pawls - ok on the turbo, but not ideal on the road.

Googleing - aside from the singular bright spark that suggested dismantling it - suggested blasting it with WD40 to shift all the old lube which apparently gums up over time (they've probably about 12000km on them). I wasn't convinced as the WD40 would strip out all the lube I'd have thought.

Anybody any thoughts on this? If I use the WD40 should I relube with something and what? I have standard bike grease and I think silicone grease someplace. Also, I have GT85 and some PTFE Lidl spray I picked up recently.

This video looks like the easiest place to start

If you have a contact cleaner or aerosol chain cleaner, id try that before the WD40, but if not, use what you have.

THe PTFE spray should be fine for the levers afterwards

JMcL

My right hand 105 shifter started giving me grief about a week before the lockdown. I was out for a spin and it got stuck on the lower half of the block and wouldn't shift up. It would shift down no problem (adding tension to the cable) so the inevitable happened and I wound up in the 28 cog with about 20km to home on a brass monkeys morning. LBS changed the cable before lockdown, but were more keen to make sure the bike didn't get locked up in the shop for the duration I think. That sorted it briefly but same thing happened after about 10km. I have it up on the turbo at the moment, and can get it to shift up by putting outward pressure on the shifter first which seems to engage the pawls - ok on the turbo, but not ideal on the road.

Googleing - aside from the singular bright spark that suggested dismantling it - suggested blasting it with WD40 to shift all the old lube which apparently gums up over time (they've probably about 12000km on them). I wasn't convinced as the WD40 would strip out all the lube I'd have thought.

Anybody any thoughts on this? If I use the WD40 should I relube with something and what? I have standard bike grease and I think silicone grease someplace. Also, I have GT85 and some PTFE Lidl spray I picked up recently.

68 lost souls

crosstownk wrote: »

I've the clincher version and rim tape is not needed so I'd say the tubeless is the same.

Im also assuming I haven’t made a horrible mistake and mine are definitely two way fit. I bought them second hand and I think they are. Going off the middle on the sticker inside the rim they are two way

woody33

“Gottfried of France” any info? I’ve had it for a long time, it got retired when the positronic rear derailleur solid cable snapped.
Pp

crosstownk

68 lost souls wrote: »

Changing to tubeless on Fulcrum Racing 3. They are tubeless ready and no spoke holes, didn't order rim tape as I'm assuming with this rim I wont need it? Or do I assume wrong?

I've the clincher version and rim tape is not needed so I'd say the tubeless is the same.

68 lost souls

Changing to tubeless on Fulcrum Racing 3. They are tubeless ready and no spoke holes, didn't order rim tape as I'm assuming with this rim I wont need it? Or do I assume wrong?

woody33

cletus wrote: »

I would have thought you have cup and cone bearings, you could open it up and have a look I suppose, but I'd imagine if you take the wheel off you'd be able to see play in the axle. You could try pinching it tight, see does it help

Thanks, I'll give it a try. There is the occasional "funny noise" as I pedal, it could be related. The bike is new to me, loving it. I went for a grand wee spin today, all within the 2k from home.

cletus

I would have thought you have cup and cone bearings, you could open it up and have a look I suppose, but I'd imagine if you take the wheel off you'd be able to see play in the axle. You could try pinching it tight, see does it help

woody33

My back wheel has a tiny bit of play in it, maybe 2mm at the tyre, I can see movement at the hub. The bike is 8-10 years old, has a free hub. If the bearings is the old ball and race type I could nip it up or re-grease it, but if it's a sealed bearing, maybe there is no re-tightening possible? Or leave well enough alone, on the other hand. Thoughts?

cletus

Thanks folks, gave it a pull and off it came

crosstownk

Plastik wrote: »

It comes off. Its the rear derailleur barrel adjuster - won't come in the cable kit. Pull hard

Yep. It'll come off. Lash some degreaser or WD40 onto it and leave it to soak if it's exceptionally stubborn.

Plastik

It comes off. Its the rear derailleur barrel adjuster - won't come in the cable kit. Pull hard

cletus

So here's one for the stupid pile. I'm cleaning up the rear derailleur of a bike I'm doing up, and I took off the cable housing (I had left it in place up till now so that I could measure the length of need for the replacement)

I'm looking at the end in this picture, and I realise that I don't know if the threaded insert comes off, or will I get a replacement one in the Shimano shifter cable set I'm hoping to buy from chain reactions.

Anyone able to shed some light?

iamtony

Attachment not found. this is the stuff I have. Ssys degreaser so I'm gonna give that a lash. Thanks lads.

woody33

I’ve just checked my chain scrubbing tool, just like the Park Tools one but a lot cheaper, it seems perfectly fine after having white spirit in it.
Oh, I remember when bike chains were totally enclosed in a metal chain guard. And lucky people had Sturmey Archer 3 speed hubs. Oh, and rod-actuated brakes. Saddles with springs built in....

Tony04

Personally I dont use a chain cleaner on my chains. I just regularly wipe it down with a rag and re lube. If I've been riding in mud I'll just pour a little degreaser on the chain when I hose the bike down

iamtony

woody33 wrote: »

I've been using heating oil up to this, today I tried white spirit, which ought to evaporate more quickly. It seemed to work well, though i wish i gad s greater amount to hand. Whether this is a good idea, I do not know, but there is certainly a lot of internet chatter on the subject. Have you checked out the Park Tools site? Very reputable.

no I've never seen that site before, looks great. The chain cleaning tool is similar to what I have. I'd rather use something that isn't so harsh inside it so it doesn't melt the brushes or something. I took out all the bikes to clean yesterday but never got around to it in the end. Hopefully today will be the day.

woody33

iamtony wrote: »

Heya lads, I've no solution left to put in my chain cleaning tool what can I use as a substitute?

I've been using heating oil up to this, today I tried white spirit, which ought to evaporate more quickly. It seemed to work well, though i wish i gad s greater amount to hand. Whether this is a good idea, I do not know, but there is certainly a lot of internet chatter on the subject. Have you checked out the Park Tools site? Very reputable.

iamtony

crosstownk wrote: »

Most hardwares will have degreaser. I got some the other day as I ran out of my usual stuff. Thankfully my local hardware is doing 'take away' - you stand outside and tell them what you want then you go in one at a time to pay.

All they had was a Tec7 degreaser. Not as good as the stuff I usually use but it does the job.

I think I have some of that. I've 4 bike chains to clean.

crosstownk

Most hardwares will have degreaser. I got some the other day as I ran out of my usual stuff. Thankfully my local hardware is doing 'take away' - you stand outside and tell them what you want then you go in one at a time to pay.

All they had was a Tec7 degreaser. Not as good as the stuff I usually use but it does the job.

iamtony

magicbastarder wrote: »

WD40 with a toothbrush will do a decent job, but you'll need a heavier lube than WD40 to replace what it thins away.

OK thanks. I have chain lube alright. Thanks.

magicbastarder

WD40 with a toothbrush will do a decent job, but you'll need a heavier lube than WD40 to replace what it thins away.