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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

is there a simple list of chemicals which you should not get near disc brake pads? i.e. would even something like a detergent cause issues with contamination; i was wondering as i was cleaning the bike earlier if i can be overcautious in cleaning the bike near the brakes.

any tips on looking after a steel frame? my latest purchase has mountings for racks and also a couple of unthreaded holes - should i tape those up to keep water out, or leave them uncovered to let the water out should it get in?

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Wishbone Ash

cletus wrote: »

Perhaps, but I don't know what any of that means

Fitting standard drops will mean a longer reach as the frame was designed for straight bars which are closer to the rider.

cletus

Yeah, that was the general sentiment all right, but like I said, I thought that might be more relevant on newer style mountain bikes.

Is there a easy way to figure out the stem length I might need?

magicbastarder

cletus wrote: »

Perhaps, but I don't know what any of that means

keeping the original stem would mean that you'd be reaching as far forward as the bike was originally designed, only when you were holding on to the top of the bars. if you reached forward onto the hoods, or into the drops, you'd be more stretched out than the person who designed the bike would have intended, and the steering might feel slow and heavy. if you have the original stem, no harm in experimenting with it?

woody33

Felt MTB Q200 2012 saddle, opinions?

My new-to-me Felt Q200 is from 2012 or so, I'm having fun bombing around within my 2K radius, urban and country roads mostly. Anyway, it's equipped with the original "Felt mountain design low side profile look w/ comfort fit top, double-density base, satin steel rails", is anyone familiar with it? I'm toying with the idea of getting a Charge Spoon, or something else fairly inexpensive, but I don't know if it would make much of a difference. Hmm, what do you think? Thanks.

Wishbone Ash

woody33 wrote: »

.....but I don't know if it would make much of a difference. Hmm, what do you think? Thanks.

Is there a problem with the existing saddle? (You don't mention anything in your post).

woody33

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

Is there a problem with the existing saddle? (You don't mention anything in your post).

To tell the truth, it's fine, I'd just like something a bit more comfy. Quite a while since I've had such a narrow-gauge saddle, maybe I should spend more time with it. :cool:

iamtony

Heya lads, I've no solution left to put in my chain cleaning tool what can I use as a substitute?

magicbastarder

what do you usually put in it?
white spirits will clean a chain, but will strip it bare.

iamtony

magicbastarder wrote: »

what do you usually put in it?
white spirits will clean a chain, but will strip it bare.

I was using the solution that came with it. No idea what it was. Will White spirits strip it bare in a good way:pac: I'd rather something like washing up liquid but without the salt. Wd40 maybe?

magicbastarder

i use white spirits, or petrol, maybe twice a year on my chain (depends on how dirty it is) to strip it completely. that involves taking the chain off and soaking it for a day or two though. after, i usually use the muc off wet after it dries, as you need something gloopy rather than light to get between the rollers, after.

Cee-Jay-Cee

Petrol is a great for cleaning chains. Just re-lube it once cleaned and dry.

iamtony

magicbastarder wrote: »

i use white spirits, or petrol, maybe twice a year on my chain (depends on how dirty it is) to strip it completely. that involves taking the chain off and soaking it for a day or two though. after, i usually use the muc off wet after it dries, as you need something gloopy rather than light to get between the rollers, after.

Ah yeah I'm with you. I'm looking for a quick fix to just get the dirt off my chain. I've one of those tools you attach to the chain with the brushes and you normally pour some of the solution in. It's alternatives to the solution I'm after. I have a bottle of eco friendly bike cleaner I might try some on that unless there's some reason I shouldnt?

iamtony

Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: »

Petrol is a great for cleaning chains. Just re-lube it once cleaned and dry.

I don't have petrol to hand. The mower is electric unfortunately.

magicbastarder

WD40 with a toothbrush will do a decent job, but you'll need a heavier lube than WD40 to replace what it thins away.

iamtony

magicbastarder wrote: »

WD40 with a toothbrush will do a decent job, but you'll need a heavier lube than WD40 to replace what it thins away.

OK thanks. I have chain lube alright. Thanks.

crosstownk

Most hardwares will have degreaser. I got some the other day as I ran out of my usual stuff. Thankfully my local hardware is doing 'take away' - you stand outside and tell them what you want then you go in one at a time to pay.

All they had was a Tec7 degreaser. Not as good as the stuff I usually use but it does the job.

iamtony

crosstownk wrote: »

Most hardwares will have degreaser. I got some the other day as I ran out of my usual stuff. Thankfully my local hardware is doing 'take away' - you stand outside and tell them what you want then you go in one at a time to pay.

All they had was a Tec7 degreaser. Not as good as the stuff I usually use but it does the job.

I think I have some of that. I've 4 bike chains to clean.

woody33

iamtony wrote: »

Heya lads, I've no solution left to put in my chain cleaning tool what can I use as a substitute?

I've been using heating oil up to this, today I tried white spirit, which ought to evaporate more quickly. It seemed to work well, though i wish i gad s greater amount to hand. Whether this is a good idea, I do not know, but there is certainly a lot of internet chatter on the subject. Have you checked out the Park Tools site? Very reputable.

iamtony

woody33 wrote: »

I've been using heating oil up to this, today I tried white spirit, which ought to evaporate more quickly. It seemed to work well, though i wish i gad s greater amount to hand. Whether this is a good idea, I do not know, but there is certainly a lot of internet chatter on the subject. Have you checked out the Park Tools site? Very reputable.

no I've never seen that site before, looks great. The chain cleaning tool is similar to what I have. I'd rather use something that isn't so harsh inside it so it doesn't melt the brushes or something. I took out all the bikes to clean yesterday but never got around to it in the end. Hopefully today will be the day.

Tony04

Personally I dont use a chain cleaner on my chains. I just regularly wipe it down with a rag and re lube. If I've been riding in mud I'll just pour a little degreaser on the chain when I hose the bike down

woody33

I’ve just checked my chain scrubbing tool, just like the Park Tools one but a lot cheaper, it seems perfectly fine after having white spirit in it.
Oh, I remember when bike chains were totally enclosed in a metal chain guard. And lucky people had Sturmey Archer 3 speed hubs. Oh, and rod-actuated brakes. Saddles with springs built in....

iamtony

Attachment not found. this is the stuff I have. Ssys degreaser so I'm gonna give that a lash. Thanks lads.

cletus

So here's one for the stupid pile. I'm cleaning up the rear derailleur of a bike I'm doing up, and I took off the cable housing (I had left it in place up till now so that I could measure the length of need for the replacement)

I'm looking at the end in this picture, and I realise that I don't know if the threaded insert comes off, or will I get a replacement one in the Shimano shifter cable set I'm hoping to buy from chain reactions.

Anyone able to shed some light?

Plastik

It comes off. Its the rear derailleur barrel adjuster - won't come in the cable kit. Pull hard

crosstownk

Plastik wrote: »

It comes off. Its the rear derailleur barrel adjuster - won't come in the cable kit. Pull hard

Yep. It'll come off. Lash some degreaser or WD40 onto it and leave it to soak if it's exceptionally stubborn.

cletus

Thanks folks, gave it a pull and off it came

woody33

My back wheel has a tiny bit of play in it, maybe 2mm at the tyre, I can see movement at the hub. The bike is 8-10 years old, has a free hub. If the bearings is the old ball and race type I could nip it up or re-grease it, but if it's a sealed bearing, maybe there is no re-tightening possible? Or leave well enough alone, on the other hand. Thoughts?

cletus

I would have thought you have cup and cone bearings, you could open it up and have a look I suppose, but I'd imagine if you take the wheel off you'd be able to see play in the axle. You could try pinching it tight, see does it help

woody33

cletus wrote: »

I would have thought you have cup and cone bearings, you could open it up and have a look I suppose, but I'd imagine if you take the wheel off you'd be able to see play in the axle. You could try pinching it tight, see does it help

Thanks, I'll give it a try. There is the occasional "funny noise" as I pedal, it could be related. The bike is new to me, loving it. I went for a grand wee spin today, all within the 2k from home.

68 lost souls

Changing to tubeless on Fulcrum Racing 3. They are tubeless ready and no spoke holes, didn't order rim tape as I'm assuming with this rim I wont need it? Or do I assume wrong?